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[Rhetor]

Here, late at night, with your gracious responses . . . I have a sneaking feeling it will either be a bad switch or even worse, a bad module.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks, Brad, I will find it first thing in the morning and test it.

Found a pic of the red bike with the tank off.  You can access the switch easily enough with the tank on.  Just easier to illustrate with the tank off.  Highlighted both the switch and the front mounting bolt for the tank to better see the geography.  Cruise  should work with or without this switch though.  Unless the switch had somehow failed in it fully deflected "roll" position. 

Of the other two possibilities you mentioned being likely culprits after all else you'd checked so far it would royally suck if it were a handlebar switch causing the problem.  Doing that again after just having pulled it all through the bars would be enough to make a guy say a few bad words.

If it's the cruise module check eBay.  The modules show up there new and used with some regularity.  Often enough that real bargains sometimes happen.  Have spares for both of mine that way for about $50 per module.

[AXIL]

  Rhetor, your service manual only shows you change parts. you will need a ELECTICAL SERVICE MANUAL. there is a
misprint in the cruise control diag. section. if you pick up manual at the dealer have them print you a copy of
service bulletin m-1106 February 16,2001. thay may have changed it in the 2002 manual. just to make sure. 

                                                           hope this helps  axil

[Rhetor]

Thanks, guys . . . I'll run this stuff down.

I did find the switch, thanks for the pick.

All looks attached.

Just weird . . . the left side light for the crusie works, but not the right side.

[Rhetor]

Got it figured out . . . did the lash procedure . . . the procedure worked . . . but cruise still did not.

Unhooked the roll-ver switch . . . cruise worked!  (Well, shuts off with braking, but off course not with throttle turn.)

Got the new idle cable with the built in switch ordered--only way to fix bad switch is to replace the whole cable which has the switch built in. 

I am happy it was not the module or in the switch housing!

Thanks for the help, everybody!  What a great forum and members!

[naitram]

glad to hear you got it figured out

[Cvostu]

I had to unplug the roll off switch also to get my CC to work.  With it plugged in, the cruise would stay on for a second the turn off.  For whatever reason, it works just fine with one of the wires disconnected to it.. Just don't have the roll off feature.  I'm okay with it, I just tap the brake when I want to cut it off.  I have no idea why that would cause the cruise not to work, but it does.  I can replace the cables and my luck it would happen again.   

[Rhetor]

I had to unplug the roll off switch also to get my CC to work.  With it plugged in, the cruise would stay on for a second the turn off.  For whatever reason, it works just fine with one of the wires disconnected to it.. Just don't have the roll off feature.  I'm okay with it, I just tap the brake when I want to cut it off.  I have no idea why that would cause the cruise not to work, but it does.  I can replace the cables and my luck it would happen again.   

Update:  Got it fixed . . . I really like now being able to disable crusie with throttle . . . just safer.

Got a 20% discount and ordered a new throtle cable with the roll-over switch on it . . . put it on and cruise works 100% right now!

Just a note . . . I got the cruise working after disconnecting roll-over switch half way on the cable (cruise disengages with either brake appllication, but not a throttle move . . .

but really wanted it to work with a roll of the throttle too . . . just safer for me.

I inspected the switch on the end of the old cable . . . simply looks like there is a foam compound between the two male connectors on the switch on the cable itself itself . . . looks like that foam material deteriorated (probably from washes) so that the male leads were touch (and shorting out the cruise out totally)--which may be why it works again (with brakes only) when you unplug the switch.

If I ever have the problem again, instead of first buying a new cable with switch, I would shoot a little foam or wedge in some rubber between the two male leads on the switch itslef and reconnect to see if it worked.  Just a thought.  I think the cheap foam insulator between the two males leads is the culprit for switch cruise problems.

You might try that CVOstu before buying and installing another cable like I did.

Thanks everybody . . . your combined help now has my cruise working 100%--the first time it has worked at all in the 2 years I have owned it . . . I did not know what I was missing!

[Cvostu]

Thanks Rhetor, I think I'll try that this weekend   Be nice if that would be the culprit and I can get it working. I have 2 others that I know that have the same issue.  I'll let you know. 

[naitram]

i never roll off the throttle to dis-engage always tap from brake lever, started doing that after the roll off switch died the first time.

[SBB]

i never roll off the throttle to dis-engage always tap from brake lever.

X 2


SBB

[Rhetor]

Thanks Rhetor, I think I'll try that this weekend   Be nice if that would be the culprit and I can get it working. I have 2 others that I know that have the same issue.  I'll let you know. 

After replacing mine and looking at it closely, I am really convinced it is the breakdown of the cheap foam insulator between the two male switch contacts . . . resulting a short when the two male leads touch and thereby disables the cruise totally . . . if I had it to do over again, I would have at least tried putting some kind of foam or rubber insulator . . .

I look forward to what you and the others find out when you try . . . could save people some bucks and a headache changing out the cable . . . for the cost of packing in a little rubber where the foam insulator breaks down.

Can't hurt to try.

[Twolanerider]

i never roll off the throttle to dis-engage always tap from brake lever, started doing that after the roll off switch died the first time.

I've ran some bikes for a long time with that switch either unhooked or nonexistent.  Have a couple times had something jump in to the road unexpectedly and am pretty sure the cruise was disengaged by a throttle pull down before hands or feet got to their respective brake pedals.  I'd not be concerned by not having the cut out switch in place.  But I'd also be completely satisfied knowing it was there and working.

[2003CAP]

Cudos to Rhetor,  he is spot on with the tiny foam between the contacts breaking down and causing a short between the two male leads on the cable.  I was fortunate enough to compare a good switch with mine using a multimeter and sure enough my leads were shorted due to the foam being deteriorated.  Instead of replacing it with foam i cut off a small piece of a tire plug & rolled it up like we have all done with a buger and pushed it between the male contacts of the switch.  The tire plug will never break down & it is sticky which should stay in place for a very long time.  There is no more continuity between the leads now i have cruise!  Thanks to all who have contributed to this topic & especially Rhetor for being spot on!

[2003CAP]

I normally don't join forums only read them as a guest,  but after resolving a long lived issue with my 2003SERK not having cruise with the info i obtained here on CVO Owners Group i had to comment.   Thanks again for sharing your experiences & intelligence!