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[grc]

I just changed all synthetic fluids about 1500 miles ago. Do I need to change again before I put it away for the winter???  What do others do??

Short Answer:  NO.

Longer Answer:  First, you do not need to even think about changing the primary and trans fluids.  They are not exposed to combustion byproducts like motor oil is, and there is no reason to change them more often than Harley recommends (10K and 20k).  As a matter of fact, you don't need to change the trans fluid even at 20k.  When was the last time you changed the fluid in your car or truck's trans or rear axle that often?  Trust me, a Harley trans doesn't see any tougher service than your typical automotive gearbox or axle.

Second, while the motor oil is exposed to combustion byproducts which lead to formation of acids, any modern motor oil has additives to neutralize those acids, and I seriously doubt they are all used up in the short period of time you mentioned.  Change it if it makes you feel better, but you won't be doing much beyond wasting resources. 

I will offer up a recommendation about putting the bike to bed for the winter.  First, take one last ride of at least 30 miles to get the oil up to full temperature long enough to drive off all the moisture in the oil.  Cover the oil cooler to help in getting the oil temp up.  When you pull into the garage, let the engine idle for about two minutes.  This will allow as much oil as possible to be scavenged by the oil pump and returned to the tank.  Shut the engine down, and for the duration of the storage period DO NOT go out to the garage and fire it up.  That is one of the worst things people do, as that short period of running a cold engine just loads up the engine with raw fuel and moisture.  If you want to turn the engine over, do so by using a jumper wire between the hot lead to the starter from the battery and the terminal for the starter solenoid without turning on the ignition.  That method does not engage the fuel pump or the ignition/EFI.  Pull the plugs, shoot a little fogging oil into each cylinder and crank it over a few times, reinstall the plugs, plug in the battery tender, and don't worry about it.


Jerry

[Rooster]

Put another 1000 miles on it, even in the cold, then change fluids and park. until the next day

Years ago I was working in an auto dealer in Alabama when the SM asked me if I would like to see a motor with 30k on it and oil had never been changed. That was enough for me the inside was caked with sludge I could not believe it would even run.

[Boatman]

 and for the duration of the storage period DO NOT go out to the garage and fire it up.  That is one of the worst things people do, as that short period of running a cold engine just loads up the engine with raw fuel and moisture.  


Jerry

X1000

[ultrafxr]

Years ago I was working in an auto dealer in Alabama when the SM asked me if I would like to see a motor with 30k on it and oil had never been changed. That was enough for me the inside was caked with sludge I could not believe it would even run.

Years ago is the operative phrase.  While I certainly recommend changing oil at the recommended interval (or maybe even more often) the newer (and especially synthetics) oils are light years better that what was available 'years ago.'  I agree with Jerry's (GRC) recommendations.  I don't know about you but I have never seen nor heard of the Harley engine having a problem due to insufficient oil changes.  I guess it could happen but they usually grenade on their own due to other causes long beforehand.  Just saying.

[LC110]

Jerry's (GRC) recommendations 

[2harleys]

Jerry's (GRC) recommendations 

I know the old saying that opinions are like a@# holes, and that everyone has one  ----  but I just did a google search on this subject and EVERY site says the same thing, no mater if it is a bike, car, boat, motorhome or whatever has a motor.  They all agree that when storing a motor for an extended winter lay-up, you should change the oil first.  Not trying to cause a problem  ---- just saying. I did NOT find one site that suggested leaving old oil in the motor. But, it is YOUR motor so you can certainly do with it what you like. I personally will spend the few dollars for my own peace of mind, knowing that I have un-contaminated oil in my $36,000.00 bike.

[Twolanerider]

EVERY site says the same thing

Your research has to be flawed.  Universal agreement on any topic, subjective or not, across the entirety of the Internet?   Really....

Of course source material from manufacturers and vendors all wishing to sell more oil products should be absolutely trusted.   As should research with foundations that predate modern fluids.

This is always going to be one of those "do what makes you feel best" topics.   As for me; I'm not pissing away $50-$60 of fluids just because they went in in October or November.  

[2harleys]

Your research has to be flawed.  Universal agreement on any topic, subjective or not, across the entirety of the Internet?   Really....

Of course source material from manufacturers and vendors all wishing to sell more oil products should be absolutely trusted.   As should research with foundations that predate modern fluids.

This is always going to be one of those "do what makes you feel best" topics.   As for me; I'm not pissing away $50-$60 of fluids just because they went in in October or November.  

I am the stupid one here for sure. Thank you for pointing that out to me. I should have stated "all of the sites that I read" ---  NOT---  "all of the sites" Obviously I did not read ALL of the sites on the internet that had anything to do with winterizing an engine. But all of the sites that I did read, which were probably 15 or 20  (many articles that were not manufacturers or venders) --- all said virtually the same thing, and that is to replace the oil in the engine before a a winter lay up. How many sites can you show me that recommend NOT changing the oil? And yes I realize this is probably one of those stupid subjects that people will never agree on, just like which oil is the best. Those that do, will do, and those that do not will continue not doing. My research was not flawed, and it was not really research, it was just curiosity, as to what others were doing, and recommending. I would like to read anything you can point me to, that says it is a good idea to leave 1500 mile oil in an engine that will be sitting over the winter. Maybe you can convince me to change my thoughts on this.  And by the way, if you are spending $50.00 or $60.00 to change your oil, I can give you some ideas on how to lower those costs dramatically.  Don't know what kind of oil you use, but my pick of oil is Mobile 1 V-twin and I wait until there is a special and buy several cases. The last that I bought was on the internet from Advanced Auto, and turned out to be less than $8.00 per quart. I believe that comes to about $32.00 per oil change not including a filter.  You and I both know neither of us is going to change there mind on this subject, but it is something to think and talk about. For some of the lucky ones on this site that do not get snow, this thread is useless. In four more years when I retire from being an auto tech, I will also live where I will never need to winterize anything.  Ride safe!

[Twolanerider]

In four more years when I retire from being an auto tech, I will also live where I will never need to winterize anything.  Ride safe!

 

[bbrown]

Short Answer:  NO.

Longer Answer:  First, you do not need to even think about changing the primary and trans fluids.  They are not exposed to combustion byproducts like motor oil is, and there is no reason to change them more often than Harley recommends (10K and 20k).  As a matter of fact, you don't need to change the trans fluid even at 20k.  When was the last time you changed the fluid in your car or truck's trans or rear axle that often?  Trust me, a Harley trans doesn't see any tougher service than your typical automotive gearbox or axle.

Second, while the motor oil is exposed to combustion byproducts which lead to formation of acids, any modern motor oil has additives to neutralize those acids, and I seriously doubt they are all used up in the short period of time you mentioned.  Change it if it makes you feel better, but you won't be doing much beyond wasting resources.  

I will offer up a recommendation about putting the bike to bed for the winter.  First, take one last ride of at least 30 miles to get the oil up to full temperature long enough to drive off all the moisture in the oil.  Cover the oil cooler to help in getting the oil temp up.  When you pull into the garage, let the engine idle for about two minutes.  This will allow as much oil as possible to be scavenged by the oil pump and returned to the tank.  Shut the engine down, and for the duration of the storage period DO NOT go out to the garage and fire it up.  That is one of the worst things people do, as that short period of running a cold engine just loads up the engine with raw fuel and moisture.  If you want to turn the engine over, do so by using a jumper wire between the hot lead to the starter from the battery and the terminal for the starter solenoid without turning on the ignition.  That method does not engage the fuel pump or the ignition/EFI.  Pull the plugs, shoot a little fogging oil into each cylinder and crank it over a few times, reinstall the plugs, plug in the battery tender, and don't worry about it.


Jerry

Good advice thanks

[grc]

.......................................................................
How many sites can you show me that recommend NOT changing the oil?............................................................

Not that I need to look up websites to prove what I already know, thanks to my BS in automotive engineering and over 35 years of industry experience in things like field service engineering, quality control, production management, etc., but since you asked I thought I'd visit just one site and post the results for you.  Note I didn't go to some place like h-d forums or one of those other places where they still like to tell folks that synthetic oil will cause your roller bearings to skid or will destroy your oil pump or any of the other BS you can find on such sites. 


Jerry

[110tHunDer]

 
I'm convinced, used oil is better sitting in my motor during the next 5 months.  Excuse me while I go drain the fresh Redline out of the SEEG and the SERG and reinstall what's currently in the drain bucket ....

 

[2harleys]

x2    I am now convinced I have been waisting my money each year, putting in fresh oil before winter storage. I am sure glad I have still have a 5 gallon bucket with my used oil in. I can now use that to put in the bike before winter storage.

[sadunbar]

Gotta love oil threads!   























(Jerry and Twolane are right, by the way...it might make you feel good to store your bike with new oil, but it's completely unnecessary!!)

[grc]

x2    I am now convinced I have been waisting my money each year, putting in fresh oil before winter storage. I am sure glad I have still have a 5 gallon bucket with my used oil in. I can now use that to put in the bike before winter storage.

Not necessarily.  Don't forget the context of this discussion, as defined by the original post.  The OP asked if he needed to change fluids that had just been changed a short time and maybe 1500 miles before.  The correct answer is no in that case.  But if you and 103thunDer were about due for an oil change anyway, then changing it now versus in the spring is just fine (and it's what I normally do if it's almost time to change anyway).  My point was that the overly anal "common wisdom" about always changing oil right before storing an engine is not based on science, nor is it cast in stone.  What would you guys do if you had changed oil 3 weeks ago, dump that basically new oil and change it again?  The oil company and filter company will love you for the additional sale, but your engine won't know the difference.  If you want to worry about an engine over the winter, worry about the one in your car that gets driven 5 or 10 miles at a time and builds up large quantities of contaminants and acids, not the one that is sitting in the garage with no combustion byproducts or large temp swings to create problems.


Jerry