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[JohnnyRock]

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X4 

[JohnnyRock]

The problem with the "Keep it Simple" approach above is you need to drill into your very expensive CVO's fender to do this.  Something a lot of people, myself included, have a problem doing. 

Kuryakyn apparently decided to position the plate below the hole in the fender because they thought the plate looked better down lower.  Guess they failed to notice the ugly hunk of chrome they had to place above the plate to accomplish this aesthetically pleasing location. 

This is why I have manufactured my own back plate that positions the frame high enough up to cover the hole and still uses the factory mounting holes already in the fender, so no drilling is required.  Since my bike came in late last year and went right into storage after the 1,000 mile service I have not mounted the new frame yet.

Here is a pic of the back plate I manufactured out of 1/8" stainless steel.  The 2 fender mounting holes are countersunk so after the back plate is mounted to the fender the screws will not stick up and interfere with the license plate.  The 4 holes in the corners are tapped to allow screwing the Kuryakyn frame directly to it.

I just need to wait until I get my bike out of storage so I can decide what thickness spacers I need to keep the back plate and frame from touching the fender.  Then I can put it all together and get some final pics to share.

NorEaster,

Can you help some brothers out and let us know if we'll be able to get a copy of your bracket after you get it perfected? The interest level seems to be growing!

Thanks,

JR

[NorEaster]

NorEaster,

Can you help some brothers out and let us know if we'll be able to get a copy of your bracket after you get it perfected? The interest level seems to be growing!

For all those interested in the back plate I have designed, I would be happy to make them available once I get all the details worked out.  Hopefully in the next month or so after I get my baby back home from her long winter storage about an hour south of here.  That and I figure out what I have in them for material costs.

At this point I am leaning towards not trying to change the curve of the Kuryakyn frame to exactly match the fender, but I will have to wait and see just how far off it is before I can make that call.  And how it looks on the bike without matching exactly.  This later part I may need to enlist the help of all you on here, once I have pics to share. 

[FLHXSE2]

Thanks, I'd really appreciate it!

[BostonboyDH]

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[Chrome Junkie]

I like the Yaffe Universal Stealth III License Frame Kit.  It shows no bolts requires no drilling and has a nice clean look.  can be found about 3/4 down this link
http://www.baggernation.com/products-body-plateholders.htm

Do you have any pics up close

[JohnnyRock]

For all those interested in the back plate I have designed, I would be happy to make them available once I get all the details worked out.  Hopefully in the next month or so after I get my baby back home from her long winter storage about an hour south of here.  That and I figure out what I have in them for material costs.

At this point I am leaning towards not trying to change the curve of the Kuryakyn frame to exactly match the fender, but I will have to wait and see just how far off it is before I can make that call.  And how it looks on the bike without matching exactly.  This later part I may need to enlist the help of all you on here, once I have pics to share. 

That's great news! Please put me on the list for one when you have it figured out. Thanks!

[Skunky Dog]

NorEaster,
I'm going to put on the 3144, and 3146 both for now but when you get that bracket figgered out put me down for one and I'll just throw that ugly big backing plate away and replace it with the clean look..

[brassspike]

Noreaster, I went ahead and and took the goofy reflector off the rear of mine today. I have the Kury plate holder and tested it to the fender. The curve is off a good amount. I measured and cut a backing plate that will work fine once a suitable gasket/filler material can be found to fit between the frame and the fender. I would prefer to use something similar to the original that is used on the existing unit.
The difference in the curve is actually a benefit if you do not plan to drill the fender. Actually, you will need a filler for the gap anyway. The space can be used to house the nuts holding the plate to the frame or you can simply tap the back plate. That brings me to  my other issue. Where to get fasteners that will fit the taper of the holes in the frame. It's countersunk.
If anyone can find a suitable material to use we will be in business. Sorry no Pict's. The weather was too good today. I had to stop and ride!

[jrice454]

I can't find it Chip but it's in this thread someplace.....   http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=40248.0      You only have 49 pages to go through.

JCZ,

I have the license plate frame at the paint shop (to match color similar to FAST380's frame).  Any words of wisdom on mounting this thing? Rubber backing? Alignment? Or is there a thread somewhere I can tap into to ease my drilling phobia?  Thanks in advance. 

Jim

[Cvostu]

I didn't want to drill either..  I am also waiting for the "perfect" back plate as well.. Till then I am usung the 3144 amnd 3146 too.

[FAST380]

Jrice, I covered the back of my plate with self adhesive felt the wife got me from the craft store, and use fairing molding around the edges to help take up the gap and insulate it. I had to trim the inside of the fairing molding so it was more like a L vs. a U. I didn't trim all of the inside off, so it isn't a true L, it has a small inside lip to keep it in place. I used street glide fairing material if I remember correctly. My only complaint is that the molding isn't gloss black.

[Cvostu]

Fast..  yours looks really great,,   But that drill bit is killing me,,

[FAST380]

Baaaa, it's just a fender, they make more 

[jrice454]

Jrice, I covered the back of my plate with self adhesive felt the wife got me from the craft store, and use fairing molding around the edges to help take up the gap and insulate it. I had to trim the inside of the fairing molding so it was more like a L vs. a U. I didn't trim all of the inside off, so it isn't a true L, it has a small inside lip to keep it in place. I used street glide fairing material if I remember correctly. My only complaint is that the molding isn't gloss black.

Thanks FAST380, great idea with the fairing material.

And your right...they make more fenders...I'll just make sure I do it right the first time! 

J