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[FR8TRN]

Running extra lean was one of my first thoughts but in checking the plug it doesn't indicate it's hot.  I would like to do the True Duals, SE Air Kit and a SERT or PC.  But don't know what mufflers to go with.  I don't want anything loud.  Tried the Freedom Cycle package but they were way too loud.  Send 'em back.  I know you have the V&H Ovals, but personally I'm not sure I like the sound of the Ovals.  At least on the bikes I've seen them on.  I'm thinking about Rush mufflers because they have removable baffles that you can change.  Everything from 1.75" to 2.50".  I'd put on the V&H True Duals as that way any slip-on will work.  The problem is finding a good tuner for either the SERT or PC.

Well plugs are a good indication over time....but without alot of miles on em they are really only good for telling you what was going on the few seconds before you shut it off.  The heat is your big indicator right now.  If your heading that direction anyways do the SERT and an SE Air Kit (or Ness since it's out now) and try the #36 map that comes with the SERT, it's free to try it since you'd be gettin a SERT for tuning anyways.  Dyno has to have something similiar for the PC also.  You can do the True Duals if you'd like and leave the muffler choice for later.  You may find you don't need a good tuner.....mine is running so good I'd hate to screw with it.

[VAZHOG]

No offense intended, but I don't need any wise cracks at this point.  I've got a problem with a $32k bike and not real happy.  Only honest, helpfull responses appreciated.

Throwing more money at will not make you happy, Perhaps you could have spent 24K and got at larger engine and larger gas tank and no heat, Oh I forgot that would have been a Goldwing  

[SE_ULTRA]

Hey Dakota,
I saw some of the guy's in Cripple Creek had these plexi-glass looking heat shields that protected their thighs from the heat of the engine.  I don't know where to find them but they looked fine on the bike.  My SEUC hasn't given me much for excessive heat.  I admit it does get a little hot the odd time but I understand the 103's run a little hotter.

Canuck

The heat sheilds are a bandaid for a problem, not a fix (sorru Canuck). They were designed for parade use when lack of air flow will cause uncomfortable heat on your legs. They also hinder the normal flow of air over and away from the engine, so not a real good idea. At any rate a very hot engine seems to be the odd one out. As others have stated, I wold have it checked and get the SERT or PC to bings things into proper operating ranges.
OK, off my   [smiley=soapbox.gif] now...let me get those pics for you.

[SE_ULTRA]

Here are the pics I promised.

[SE_ULTRA]

...and another

[SE_ULTRA]

...last one.

[cvTony]

What started out as mainly a handlebar thread turned into a "heated" discussion! This one is hotter than my Evo dresser, but it is bearable. I have SE Filter, stage 1 download and V&H Basic slip-ons with stock head pipes. My plugs look great too, by the way.Those shields that Canuck mentioned may work as long as they don't interfere with your legs. The heat is still being produced, though - I think eventually, in slow traffic it is still going to seep up somewhere - that's where it wants to go.
     But, back to the bars. I have the identical problem with my 32" sleeve and wish I could get the bars back 2". (We'd all like 2 extra inches, right?) I brought this up before and SE ULTRA, in my opinion has the best answer - for me at least. I just haven't pulled the trigger on this one yet. I had the dealer rotate the bars back and got about 3/4" improvement, but it also rotated them down a little and there is only so much adjustment in the controls (clutch side) to get them oriented properly.
     So, SE ULTRA, if you read this, I have a couple questions: 1) with the bars closer and slightly wider than stock, how is the view to the mirrors? Do you have to turn your head more to see, or is it as natural as before the swap? (I tried long-stem mirrors once thinking it was a good idea and found I could not just glance at the mirror I had to actually turn my head - it was not instinctive) 2) I think you said before there was no issue with cables/lines, but remind me, all the stock parts fit?

[twincam]

back to the heat issue, (sorry folks)., I live in souther Arizona and take trips to Phoenix often, last time I was there it was 112 degrees. On the highway I had no heat issue, with that kind of heat you have a lean problem, or your used to that northern weather, I am running SE pipes air cleaner, & SERT. Before the bike was tuned right I did have a lean problem. but, still no heat as you descibed. try leather pants

[06ULTRASE]

First off is this your first bike with lowers. For some reason they make more heat. Second are you sure its REALLY running hot. You've got quite a bit more heat generated by the extra HP even on a stock engine.
Take the lowers off and see if that makes a difference. If that doesn't seem to help find out just how hot its' running.
I replaced the lower wind blocks on the fairing with Dragon Wings and between them and the lowers vents open it helps but only if you are moving. Sitting still its hot.

[SE_ULTRA]

    So, SE ULTRA, if you read this, I have a couple questions: 1) with the bars closer and slightly wider than stock, how is the view to the mirrors? Do you have to turn your head more to see, or is it as natural as before the swap? (I tried long-stem mirrors once thinking it was a good idea and found I could not just glance at the mirror I had to actually turn my head - it was not instinctive) 2) I think you said before there was no issue with cables/lines, but remind me, all the stock parts fit?

Ummm...ok, here goes;
The view in the mirrors is great for me..better then stock...I see more of the road and less of my shoulders. That being said, I can not comment on turning my head and looking back as I do this EVERY TIME I change lanes...I will say, there has never been a "surprise" where my mirror said go and there was a car there.

Lines and cables... All the electrical worked, throttle lines worked, the clutch I don't remember. As for the brake, the dealer used the original to save me money..it is very tight. I would have prefered a longer brake cable and if I were do do it again I would insist on the "2 inch over" brake cable.

[spydglide]

DakotaZeb, your bike may be tuned just perfect and with the lower fairings on in upper 80's on up in temperature, these bikes can be blistering hot.  I have to remove my lowers if I'm gonna ride the SEEG in the summer here in NC or anywhere in the South.  Makes a world of difference in comfort.  Try that.  I have been tempted to put the air deflectors on mine, but worry that it'll 'trap' the hot air around the rear cylinder.....that couldn't be good for it.  Take those lowers off and you'll have a different bike for the summer.  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] spyder

[Twolanerider]

The Wild1 575 bars that Train pictured above have been a popular choice on the SEEGs and at least a few of the Ultras.  I've got them and find them perfectly satisfactory and a tremendous improvement over the stock bars.

While there aren't a lot of options for the Glides one of our members did find at least one other.  It was something from Flanders.  Pulled even a bit closer to you than did the Wild1 bars.  Nearly everyone had to swap the front brake line with the Wild1 bars.  I don't remember if anything else had to be swapped for the Flanders.  For more detail on the Flanders bars PM Mobe.  I hope I'm remembering correctly when I think it was him with the other bars.

[SE_ULTRA]

Who the hell is Train?  [smiley=confused5.gif]

[Twolanerider]

Who the hell is Train?  [smiley=confused5.gif]

I was thinking FR8TRN (freight train) was the first of the ultra riders to do the 575 bars.  Could be mistaken though.  Were it not for the premature senility allowing me not to recognize it the Alzheimers would be a real bitch.

[SE_ULTRA]

Were it not for the premature senility allowing me not to recognize it the Alzheimers would be a real bitch.

 [smiley=ROFLOL.gif]