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[mrmagloo]

A good stop-gap solution for you would be to wire your fairing speakers and your lower speakers in series and drive them with the 125.2. Since the Rokkers are 2-ohm nominal, this will create a 4-ohm load to the Arc. It will make a tremendous difference with the fairing and lowers receiving the 75w/ch output of the Arc at 4-ohms.

For now, the PBR300/4 remains a 4-ohm only amp. I highly doubt they will come out with a 2-ohm stable version, but I have no "inside knowledge" so anything is possible (my speculation only here). The big issue for you are the Rokkers in the pods as they are 2-ohm as well. One possible solution is to replace the Rokkers in the pods with a set of Polk Dxi650 (4-ohm), keep the Rokkers in the fairing and lowers wired in series, then drive them with a PBR300/4. You'll be a happy camper 

If you're referring to a post I did a few months back regarding the new Hertz digital amps (and the Polk Audio derivative) then I just might (lol). Both of the initial amps are WAY awesome (and I'm excited about where they might go in the future) but the limiting factor is current draw. The Hertz amp specs show max current draw at 50 amps. Hard to put them on a bike that has a 45 amp generator.  Too bad as I was going to buy one to test it out.

Now if I can just figure out how to get an Audison "Bit One" in the faring .....

Wow, you totally lost me, but being the twit I am, that's not very hard!

I thought that all things equal, that going to a lower Ohm speaker, will increase the perceived output or volume. So, going from a 4 ohm to a 2 ohm speaker will increase the performance, provided the amp can handle it.  As such, following that logic, I would think that running the Rokkers in series would decrease the performance?   You lost me there!

And to confirm, running in series means, taking the positive from the amp to the positive terminal of the first speaker, and then taking the negative terminal of that first speaker and running that to the positive of the second speaker. Lastly, taking the negative out of the 2nd speaker and running that to the amp negative. I believe that is in series, where parallel would be just going amp positive to each positive speaker terminal, and amp negative to each speaker's negative.

That PBR300/4 does sound interesting for sure.

[TIF2]

I thought that all things equal, that going to a lower Ohm speaker, will increase the perceived output or volume. So, going from a 4 ohm to a 2 ohm speaker will increase the performance, provided the amp can handle it.  As such, following that logic, I would think that running the Rokkers in series would decrease the performance?   You lost me there!

If you are looking at your system on paper - then 125w/ch certainly looks better than 75w/ch - the reality is the performance of the speaker that the amp is driving has more overall impact on what you hear than the specs of an amp.

For example ... efficiency of a speaker. Did you know that a speaker rated at 89dB efficiency (SPL rated at 1w and 1m) requires TWICE the amp power to play at the same SPL (Sound Pressure Level - what you hear as "loudness" or "sound output") than a speaker rated at 92dB efficiency (again at 1w and 1m)? Think about that ... the 89dB speaker will require 40w of power to play at the same "volume" as the 92dB speaker at 20w.

But I digress ...
I doubt that you will notice a difference in "performance" if you wire your Rokkers in series (except of course, on paper and on forums ). It will be well worth the effort to hook it up and test - trust me. You may need to re-adjust your gains but that is all. I've had the Arc running at 2-ohms and at 4-ohms and saw no appreciable difference in perceived output. If you do then we'll need to talk because something else is going on.

And to confirm, running in series means, taking the positive from the amp to the positive terminal of the first speaker, and then taking the negative terminal of that first speaker and running that to the positive of the second speaker. Lastly, taking the negative out of the 2nd speaker and running that to the amp negative. I believe that is in series, where parallel would be just going amp positive to each positive speaker terminal, and amp negative to each speaker's negative.

Correct!

[mrmagloo]

You just had to toss in yet another scary concept in having to adjust gains too, didn't you!   

I've got a big job coming up during the winter layup in trying to swap out my handle bars, which I'm dreading.  While I have everything torn apart, I'll give this wiring in series idea a test.  You really think that'll help lot?

When I do this, I guess I just leave the existing wires from the stock amp to the lowers alone and wrap them right?  The stock amp will work just fine without any load? Wait a sec, I guess the front channel of the stock amp is still connected to the input of the 125.2 so I'm guessing that shouldn't be an issue??  I'll give it a whirl, but I'm afraid to mess with the gains. I think those are under the fan plate or sticker anyway? Not sure what is what anyway, so I hope the difference is noticable without adjusting anything.

Gosh, I wish this stuff wasn't so confusing - better yet, someone local who knew what the heck they were doing!  Ever in the Chicago area?  (hint, hint!) 

Thanks man!

[TIF2]

You just had to toss in yet another scary concept in having to adjust gains too, didn't you!  

Pretty much everything, when experienced for the first time, is a little scary.
You'll be surprised how easy it is when you have someone walk you through it. No matter though - J&M "hides" the gain contols on <cough, cough> their amp <cough, cough> so I wouldn't recommend messing with them. It won't change the dramatic improvement you'll realize by driving the fairing and lowers off of the Arc (sorry --- the J&M  ).

You really think that'll help lot?

It will blow you away with the improvement.

When I do this, I guess I just leave the existing wires from the stock amp to the lowers alone and wrap them right?  The stock amp will work just fine without any load? Wait a sec, I guess the front channel of the stock amp is still connected to the input of the 125.2 so I'm guessing that shouldn't be an issue??  I'll give it a whirl, but I'm afraid to mess with the gains. I think those are under the fan plate or sticker anyway? Not sure what is what anyway, so I hope the difference is noticable without adjusting anything.

You won't need to adjust anything. It will make an amazing difference. I'll send you a PM with my number - we can go through the connectivity over the phone. It will be pretty easy - just make a diagram of how things are connected now so that we have a point of reference to speak to. The beauty of it is that backout is also very easy. If you don't like it you can change back quickly. Although, once we're done, you'll be sending me a bottle of my favorite bourbon in appreciation. Pappy Van Winkle 23yr comes to mind ..... (lol)

[mjb765]

You won't need to adjust anything. It will make an amazing difference. I'll send you a PM with my number - we can go through the connectivity over the phone. It will be pretty easy - just make a diagram of how things are connected now so that we have a point of reference to speak to. The beauty of it is that backout is also very easy. If you don't like it you can change back quickly. Although, once we're done, you'll be sending me a bottle of my favorite bourbon in appreciation. Pappy Van Winkle 23yr comes to mind ..... (lol)

For a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 23yr don't you come and do the install

[TIF2]

For a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 23yr don't you come and do the install

Gotta love a man that knows his bourbon.
And you know?

I just might ....

[mjb765]

Gotta love a man that knows his bourbon.
And you know?

I just might ....

I have heard of it...but never had the pleasure:(

It ain't cheap....and you don't see it in your local bar

[mrmagloo]

Pretty much everything, when experienced for the first time, is a little scary.
You'll be surprised how easy it is when you have someone walk you through it. No matter though - J&M "hides" the gain contols on <cough, cough> their amp <cough, cough> so I wouldn't recommend messing with them. It won't change the dramatic improvement you'll realize by driving the fairing and lowers off of the Arc (sorry --- the J&M  ).

It will blow you away with the improvement.

You won't need to adjust anything. It will make an amazing difference. I'll send you a PM with my number - we can go through the connectivity over the phone. It will be pretty easy - just make a diagram of how things are connected now so that we have a point of reference to speak to. The beauty of it is that backout is also very easy. If you don't like it you can change back quickly. Although, once we're done, you'll be sending me a bottle of my favorite bourbon in appreciation. Pappy Van Winkle 23yr comes to mind ..... (lol)

Thanks TIF2 I'll reply.

BTW - That Pappy stuff must be pretty hard to find. I've never even heard of the stuff. Did a quick search and nobody even stocks the stuff.  I'll have to search this stuff down.