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[Unbalanced]

Jerry,

I guess the main idea here is that the cases are split and the crank is out of spec.   To me the choice is pretty simple the dealership is already covering the laber why wouldnt you go new SE Crank or get the one you got trued, pinned, welded and balanced.   Thinking through it seems like a no brainer.   

[HD Street Performance]

Wow
Sounds like a TR6 I bought new in 1976. The manufacturer crosses their fingers to get them out of warranty then all hell breaks loose.
The dealers have to comply to get MOCO support or they don't get paid during the warranty period and the customer gets the shaft with the same parts that failed already.

[twinotter]

 I feel sorry for ya dude, the problems are there, and you got this HD s..t dumped on you. I have lost a lot of faith in HD lately.
Since I own an 01 Dyna, I reall haven't until recently taken much notice of the way HD been going. My 88 went to 95, then supercharged. I ran it for 7 yrs, 3 with the supercharger. I had no failures of any kind. I now run a T124 S&S for the last 5yrs with repairs costing a total of $12.
A friend here bought a new CVO Street Glide, and being up on the issues, took it with 0 miles, spent another $3500CDn to have the motor reworked. They checked runout first, it was .004(brand new). Retrue and weld was the first step. Retuning, >030 gasket, porting and new catless exhaust
I know HD people are fanatic about the HD dream, everyone wants one, but would anyone buy these bikes if they had any other name attached. The perfect example of this is the new Indian, could have been a world leader if they hadn't made it from garbage imported from the 4th world economies. Result, catastrophic failure, both business and customer wise.
I believe now after spending the last two months reading about all the issues that basically start in 03 and get worse, that the HD customers have to take HD to account, stop buying their "profit above all for HD".
I wouldn't even consider buying anything new from HD until they can prove it is serious about building a competent motorcycle.
I hope you get your HD all sorted out and she runs 100,000 miles.  twinotter

[grc]

Jerry,

I guess the main idea here is that the cases are split and the crank is out of spec.   To me the choice is pretty simple the dealership is already covering the laber why wouldnt you go new SE Crank or get the one you got trued, pinned, welded and balanced.   Thinking through it seems like a no brainer.   

I agree wholeheartedly Harry.  Once the cases are split, it would be a no brainer for me to have the crank completely checked out (I'd still be a little worried about those rod bearings for instance), trued, and plugged/welded.  As for buying a new crank from Harley, even the SE version, I think that puts you back into the crapshoot scenario these days.  Why pay Harley big bucks for a new part and then have to get it trued anyway?


Jerry

[glens]

Well, I think the SE crank has forged wheels which hold the crankpin a fair bit better than the cast wheels.

[Lever]

if your gonna upgrade  i used dark horse rods and had them trued/balance , proplugg crank  replace bearings etc i am very happy with there work and it has a nice warranty also

[jagonza1]

Its not the lifters the bike is running the old style cam chain pre 07.  The chain adjusters are worn out and you need to change them pretty fast or you are going to lose a motor.  Your best bet is to switch to new style cams cam plate and hydrolic adjustors or check pinion run out and switch to gear drives.  the old style adjusters are only good for around 25,000 mile give or take.

[Diese1nut]

I appreciate all the feed back.
I was satisfied after seeing the motor apart that any debris stayed within the cam cavity and the oil pump. Thus everything in there is getting replaced. In the main case the scoring on the crank was really only a scratch and I am not going to push for a new crank. I could but really, am I going to get a new one out of the box with less than .004 run out. As far as having it balanced outside the dealership I'm not going to push for that.
I will be satisfied with all new crank bearings and I asked the tech to flush out the crank with oil and slowly turn the rods. If it doesn't feel like glass then a new crank would be in order. These were suggestions from R&R.

I was very satisfied with the bike from the day I bought it new until I needed Cam chain adjusters and did the Cam Plate and Cams. So I have decided to go a little backwards and see if I can get that result again. At this time I will be having another new SE Cam plate with hydraulic tensioners and I told them to put a new stock 253 Cam back with the stock push rods to see if it will be a fairly quiet motor again. I can always change cams later. At this point I wish I did the original change myself and if I do a different set of cams later I will do it.

I have to agree that if I was to do another HD I would put another motor in a used chassis such as a R&R or S&S. I will also admit that after our visit to the dealer on Friday my wife and I went and test drove a BMW. It would be nice to have both. I don't think I could be with out the Road Glide but for those long trips a smooth quiet bike is looking pretty good. The ride is night and day.

[hogasm]

You said you would not push for a new crank....if they are as accommodating as you say, I would ask them to allow you to send off the crank and have it balanced, trued and plugged. No way would I go that far into a motor and not have the crank done.....even on my dime.

At .004 out it could be .025 in a couple of miles or may never change. It is like the old Fram commercial...you can pay me now    or pay me later

[twinotter]

Hi Dieselnut: FWIW  I'd want this crank pulled apart to check the con rod bearings for debri. As others have mentioned. 004 runout is already WAY too much. The crank pin has to go thru a bronze bushing with a .001 tolerance, it will egg shape that in no time.
 I don't care personally what Harley specs are, there should be no more than .001" MAX.
 Anymore, IMO will cause ventual problems again. Most real engine builder would want far less, like .0005max or less.
My 88" Twin Cam (01) measured .0005, my new S&S 124 reads >.0000 ( can't get any reading).
I'd bite the bullet here and pay for crank to be dissassembled, cleaned trued and welded if given no other option. I would not trust a crank that has that much runout already and is very likely full of grit from the breakdown! It takes one or little bits of flywheel debri in the roller bearings to take it out again pronto.
It sounds like your dealer is working with you, thats good, talk it over with them, I beleive the effort to be certain its right to start would make it all worthwhile.  twinotter

[Diese1nut]

Believe me I here you. I would love .0000 but it's not practical to ask for that. Just made a call and plugged, welded, balanced, new crank bearings are $1,100 + and at least two weeks out. I am not going to expect dealer to leave my motor spread out on the bench for that time. I feel my motor was probably .0004 from day one and I can live with that. The dealer is going to stand by it for a year and I am satisfied.
I have $2,350 into the failed cams and upgraded plate now. Add $1,100 to that + $3,450 That's almost a R&R stage 4 kit and If I had known how this was going to play out that is the route I would have gone. At this point I just want to ride. I want it back the way it was. I have way too much in this bike already. 6k for the Road Glide conversion, never mind the countless other thousands in it in accessories, tour pak, heated grips etc etc. Just want to ride.

[twinotter]

Hi Dieselnut: I completely understand the $$ part. I live on a disability pension and that $$ would be almost impossible for me.
I have read tho on these forums and others that a basic true/weld/plug is something like $350, I wonder how removing one side for crank pin clean/ inspection get to be $1100!! WOW. Your crank may need nothing except a thorough cleaning to assure no debri.
It sounds like your dealer is standing behind the rebuild, I wish you all the best of luck and a "ride forever" bike. twinotter

[KennyC]

Believe me I here you. I would love .0000 but it's not practical to ask for that. Just made a call and plugged, welded, balanced, new crank bearings are $1,100 + and at least two weeks out. I am not going to expect dealer to leave my motor spread out on the bench for that time. I feel my motor was probably .0004 from day one and I can live with that. The dealer is going to stand by it for a year and I am satisfied.
I have $2,350 into the failed cams and upgraded plate now. Add $1,100 to that + $3,450 That's almost a R&R stage 4 kit and If I had known how this was going to play out that is the route I would have gone. At this point I just want to ride. I want it back the way it was. I have way too much in this bike already. 6k for the Road Glide conversion, never mind the countless other thousands in it in accessories, tour pak, heated grips etc etc. Just want to ride.

Hope you get it fixed soon! I feel your pain. Years ago I had a bike in the shop during the BEST riding time of the year! When I got it back the weather was like 140 degrees with 150% humidity.  Good Luck!!

[mattm]

Diese1nut

I noticed in one for your eariler posts you said:

The spacer on the transmission shaft had worked it's way in and the seal needs to be replaced.

While you are still in pieces, you might want to go back together with the Baker High Torque Bearing kit.  This is a one piece bearing that won't allow the spacer to "walk" on the main shaft (I'm assuming thats what happened here).  I know you have a million other concerns at the moment, but take a look at this if ou have the time

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/high-torque-bearing-kit

[timo482]

sort of off track here

does a "hd" rebuild include the old camplate and tensioners? or the update?

sometimes dealers get into this "pay us to do x" thing when the rebuild would be the better way to make it last

sorry for the thread jack

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