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[rxteam]

I am pretty new to the forum but recently purchased an 09 cvo ultra with 12,000 miles. The bike seems to have a little hesitation right off idle til it hits about 2000 rpm. Talked with the previous owner and he stated the heads were ported, jugs were bored 60 thousandths, has a different cam with Vance and Hines monster ovals with true duals. Had it at the local stealer. They had it for a full day on the dyna and it is still only slightly better. I was also a little disappointed with the dyno as it only pulled 105 ft/lb torque and 103 hp. I am not really sure which direction to go to get rid of the hesitation so any help would be appreciated.

[T-Hawk]

While all I have done to my bike so far was to install the Gunships from Tailgunners, without the baffles, TTS Master Tuner, and kept the stock Ventalator with the K&N filter... when my Mech did a quick flash to compensate for the increased air flow, it started to misfire at 2,200rpm at cruise when the outside temperatures were approaching 80 degrees, and occasionally stalled when at idle.

He found quickly, that the tune he used was incorrect, as he thought I had baffles in the Gunships.  I'm only 1 of 2 people in Alaska that are running the Gunships, and the other set are down somewhere around Anchorage.  So, he had never seen them before.

He put it on his dyno, and found out also, that the Idle Throttle Position was reading 5.5 instead of zero.  He asked me the strangest question... "how do I shut the bike down after the ride"?  I replied mostly at the ignition switch, but sometimes when I'm rolling into the lot for a group ride, I'll shut it down at the Run/Stop switch and coast in.

He said that the electronics in the throttle position, was a learning system... meaning that any input on the throttle while the bike is being shut down is being learned that that is the zero position.  And, tuning it properly with the throttle position at any value other than zero when at idle, is a gamble.  Making the numbers work is almost impossible.

I noticed a thread on here recently discussing how to reset the Idle Position.  Without any input on the throttle, fire it up, let it run about 20-30 seconds and shut it down at the ignition switch.  Repeat this 5 or 6 times and the Position Sensor should be learning the new zero postion.

We did this while connected to the dyno and watched the changes as they happened.

While we didn't get the position back to zero, we did get it down to 4.0.

He then pushed a map for the Ventalator with 'Racing' exhaust, and all of the hesitation/misfire/stalling went away... even in somewhat warm weather.

He said that any of us with the electronic throttle systems should never shut down using the Run/Stop switch, as there is a risk that the throttle position may not be neutral when we do so.

He recommends that we shut it down with our right hand at the ignition switch, so that there's no chance of any input on the throttle postion.

I hope this helps, and that my lesson saves you some diagnostic time.   

[T-Hawk]

Just got a call out of the blue from my Mechanic...  He started talking with some of his other Mechanics and was told that, with key fob in range of the bike... disconnect the ground terminal from the battery and give it about 2 or 3 minutes.

This is supposed to reset all of the floating memory in the ECM which includes the Idle Throttle Position.

It will not erase any hard memory settings, such as tuning from a TTS or other programmer.

This is of course if your problem might just be that the Idle Throttle Position is out of zero, as is the case with mine.

Will be doing this tonight with Sheila... so I'll let you know.   

[glens]

Throttle position will never be zero because the system uses the throttle plate itself to control idle.  The cable-operated throttle bikes use a motor-operated valve which bypasses the throttle plate and that system will go to 0% throttle at idle.

It's not just where the twist grip is at the moment the engine is shut down.  It takes the measurement some short time afterward.  It's entirely okay to shut down the bike with the kill switch, just be sure you release the grip and allow it to return, then don't move it for several seconds afterward.

Also, I'm pretty sure you don't need to actually start the engine when you do the key on / key off routine, and you certainly don't need to remove the seat and battery cable to get it reset.

In the neighborhood of 4% throttle is normal at warm idle with the ETC bikes.

[smkymtnboy]

there is thread listed on here that tells how to reposition idle setting back to i guess 0 or correct idle rpms. it does involve ignition switch on/off several times,but does not mention starting enginehttp://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=58562.msg833544#msg833544 the threads title i beleive is wont idle down. gives instruction on how to do this yourself

[T-Hawk]

Thanks Glens... my mech did mention the servo controlled valve and tried to explain it's function with the electronic throttle controls and how that a position out of zero would affect the bike.  I know I may not have been riding absolutely perfect all these years, but I was pretty sure I knew how to shut down my bike... old school or new.

I think, because the bike is running pretty sweet right now with the throttle position at 4.0, I'll just forego any unnecessary cable removals.

I just hope I didn't pass on any advice that might make rxteams issue worse.  Hopefully, he'll just bypass anything I've posted here, and let those with more knowledge help out.

 

[rxteam]

Thanks guys for all the input!

[rxteam]

Decided to break down and take the bike to the local stealer. They had the bike for the whole day. 6 hours of dyno time. The bike runs only marginally better. I talked to the original owner of the bike and he stated it was never this way until he done some upgrades to the bike. I decided to check the intake manifold gasket my spraying each end with carb cleaner while the bike was running. It killed the engine. I put new seals in yesterday and so far it's running great.

[Midnight Rider]

Did they do the tuning before or after you found the manifold leak?  If before, your tune is worthless and I would jump up and down like a shortstop at the dealership for trying to tune away a problem that was not related to tuning, and would insist on a re-tune.