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[49445CVO]

I have a 06 SEUC and have noticed a wobble or oscillation at highway speeds (55+ mph) It almost feels as if I'm riding behind a bunch of semi's with the wind shear I encounter.  I recently had the oppertunity to ride a 2011 FLHX with a 4" windsheild.  I was amazed with how straight the bike rode at highway speeds even behind semi trailers.  My question here is this the difference between the frame change in 2009 or could it be something else? I have looked over the front tire and can see that it is cupping. The other day I had ridden through a little dusty driveway and saw that ther was just the chalky dust on the very center of the tire like 2". I checked the PSI's and it is at 40 PSI's. Just not sure if it could be the tire or something else.
Any and all input would be great.

Topper 

[Alremc]

Topper...for me it is a huge difference. I had a 00 UC that always felt squimish to me as I came from a Wing with the frame mounted fairing and when I rode my 12 UC, I was amazed as how solid it rode at slow and high speeds. In reading other posts and some rags, they attribute this to the new frame that came out in 09.

Frank

[49445CVO]

I was afraid of hearing this.  I really love my bike and don't have any want to trade up. 

[VaEagle]

You haven't mentioned whether this is a recent problem or has been an issue since bike was new?
If it was a gradual thing I would first replace the front tire since it is cupping. Some has reported their wiggle went away when they got rid of a cupped tire. You may want to change the tire pressure too, I think the manual says 36 psi for a front tire.
Then you could check things like steering neck bearings for lubrication and correct tightness. You could also check your motor mounts, they have been known to break. (Another change from old mounting system of 3 points to the new frame 4 points.)
You may want to consider a frame improvement system like one from Tru Track or other manufacturers. Many threads on here about them.
Also things like windshield height and having a Tour Pak can give the bike a different handling character due to wind and in case of the Pak not only wind but weight of it and any items stored in it compaired to a Street Glide. You could consider making your Tour Pak removable if you don't need it all the time. There are several threads on here about the process and parts needed to do this too.

[hverbakel]

I have the exact same bike and mine has none of the issues you are mentioning. It will track and run without any wobbles or unexpected movement at 100 mph and more. I think Vaeagle has the right idea. You shoud check all these things before you consider trading up. Good Luck

[49445CVO]

You haven't mentioned whether this is a recent problem or has been an issue since bike was new?
If it was a gradual thing I would first replace the front tire since it is cupping. Some has reported their wiggle went away when they got rid of a cupped tire. You may want to change the tire pressure too, I think the manual says 36 psi for a front tire.
Then you could check things like steering neck bearings for lubrication and correct tightness. You could also check your motor mounts, they have been known to break. (Another change from old mounting system of 3 points to the new frame 4 points.)
You may want to consider a frame improvement system like one from Tru Track or other manufacturers. Many threads on here about them.
Also things like windshield height and having a Tour Pak can give the bike a different handling character due to wind and in case of the Pak not only wind but weight of it and any items stored in it compaired to a Street Glide. You could consider making your Tour Pak removable if you don't need it all the time. There are several threads on here about the process and parts needed to do this too.

Good questions...

   Ok it has been there for a while but seems to have been a gradual thing that has gotten worse. my PSI are at 40 which is prolly on the high side but I'm a big guy (I'm gonna check PSI tonight). Next is I'm running a 9 1/2 " clearview with a re curve. I also have a 12 " re curve and 12 standard.  All seem to feel the same.  Right now the tour pak is removed and a lower profile seat is on the bike. It seemed to act the same way with or without the tour pak and touring seat.

I have been looking at the tru track type add ons for years but can't seem to pull the trigger on one because I'll read something on how one did not think it did anything and other that think it is a huge improvement.  Them which brand??  I could go on and on.  I guess I just did not want to spend $$$ on an item that might not do anything for me weather it was the design or brand.

At this time I thinking on getting a new front tire and put a new rear on next spring.  Next dilemma? What brand tire and model.   

[Midnight Rider]

You may also want to check your rear swingarm bushings...

[tazmun]

You may also want to check your rear swingarm bushings...

I think you hit on a very good point TC. I think alot of people forget to check that.

[49445CVO]

Ok I checked the PSI in the front tire and it was at 34 psi. I'm gonna leave it at that. I checked the tire over and dont seem to think it is cupped. I ran my hand up and down the tire and could feel the tread but when I ran my hand across the tire it was smooth and no high spots. I spoke to my dealer and they seem to think it is the bearings and they won't be able to get to it until next week and I'm gonna be on vacation. I plan on calling a mom and pop shop to see if they can get me in.

[49445CVO]

Oh how would I go about checking the swing arm bushings?

[Midnight Rider]

Oh how would I go about checking the swing arm bushings?

The only way I know to do it is to pull off the rear shocks (you could just do the lower bolts on each side) and check the swingarm for lateral movement or "slop" that would allow the rear tire to not track with the front.  The tail wagging the dog, so to speak.  Over time, the bushings get compressed and you can get some end play because of it.  There's several things that can cause what you're experiencing and that's one of them, especially if it's happening when you're going in a straight line.  Worn out shocks can cause all kinds of similar symptoms.  If you have the stock air shocks on the bike and  have more than 20K on the odometer, the shocks are worn out...they are pieces of chit to begin with.

Not saying that devices like the tru-trac, etc don't work or can't possibly help, but before I started throwing money into those type of items, I'd make sure all other things are up to snuff.  I had an '06 just like yours and never had any wobbling issues, but I sold the bike with 25K on the clock.  My suspension was a far cry from stock though...

[49445CVO]

Thanks for the info on the bushings.  I am going to be watching more closely to the "selling" board for rear shocks or for a group buy again.  I'm clocking 8,500 on my bike thus far and had not given it much thought about wearing anything out but I forget that time is an issue too.

Topper

[VaEagle]

If you are considering new shocks, take a look at this thread.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=76154.0

[Midnight Rider]

Thanks for the info on the bushings.  I am going to be watching more closely to the "selling" board for rear shocks or for a group buy again.  I'm clocking 8,500 on my bike thus far and had not given it much thought about wearing anything out but I forget that time is an issue too.

Topper

Topper...spending money on your suspension will be some of the best money you've ever put into the bike, I promise.  It'll make it a different bike.  You don't have to go nuts...about 1K in parts will get you where you need to be, and that'll get you a good pair of shocks and Progressive Monotubes for the front forks.  The shocks are a piece of cake to install...the forks are a bit more involved, so doing that on your own depends a lot on your mechanical ability and equipment available to you.  Even if you have to pay a shop, you're only looking at $2-300 in labor...I say "only", like that's pocket change (it's not to me), but considering how much other things can cost to have done, it's relatively inexpensive for the return gained.  Your bike will be MUCH more stable simply because the front tire is going to be in contact with the pavement more than it is now.

[49445CVO]

I'm glad I started this thread.  I have been reading a little on suspension but never thought it applied to me.  Well now I know.  I am going to start my research and price shopping now.... Thanks guys