Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Cat Eye]

I was reading the TTS manual on VTuning and there is a section that discussed the O2 sensor.... in 4.6.1 of the TTS manual states:
 
Watch the O2 sensor activity monitor -  If the O2 sensors are
operating normally, both indicators will flicker between green and
yellow at about the same rate.
 
If one of the indicators is "stuck" or sluggish, it indicates a problem with that O2 sensor.  In this
case, the "Waiting" status may be indicated and/or good VTune data may not be collected.  This
problem should be corrected before VTuning the vehicle.

My question is what is "flicker" and "sluggish"...my sensors are switching but by my standards not at a flicker pace......anyone know what the test proceedure is to determine if an O2 sensor is going bad and anyone have an idea of what these O2 sensor cost?

Thanks
Jim

[Pete7539]

I was reading the TTS manual on VTuning and there is a section that discussed the O2 sensor.... in 4.6.1 of the TTS manual states:
 
Watch the O2 sensor activity monitor -  If the O2 sensors are
operating normally, both indicators will flicker between green and
yellow at about the same rate.
 
If one of the indicators is "stuck" or sluggish, it indicates a problem with that O2 sensor.  In this
case, the "Waiting" status may be indicated and/or good VTune data may not be collected.  This
problem should be corrected before VTuning the vehicle.

My question is what is "flicker" and "sluggish"...my sensors are switching but by my standards not at a flicker pace......anyone know what the test proceedure is to determine if an O2 sensor is going bad and anyone have an idea of what these O2 sensor cost?

Thanks
Jim

Can't help with any of your questions, but you can have the stock ones from my 08 if you want them. I did cut the connectors off at the very end where it plugs into harness so I'd have something to cap off harness as I don't use them with my setup. I don't see why you couldn't just use shrink-wrap/splice connectors to attach them to yours?  Had about 2K on them when I switched to a wide-band kit.

[Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle]

I was reading the TTS manual on VTuning and there is a section that discussed the O2 sensor.... in 4.6.1 of the TTS manual states:
 
Watch the O2 sensor activity monitor -  If the O2 sensors are
operating normally, both indicators will flicker between green and
yellow at about the same rate.
 
If one of the indicators is "stuck" or sluggish, it indicates a problem with that O2 sensor.  In this
case, the "Waiting" status may be indicated and/or good VTune data may not be collected.  This
problem should be corrected before VTuning the vehicle.

My question is what is "flicker" and "sluggish"...my sensors are switching but by my standards not at a flicker pace......anyone know what the test proceedure is to determine if an O2 sensor is going bad and anyone have an idea of what these O2 sensor cost?

Thanks
Jim


Jim,

They're not going to flicker super rapidly - rather they will toggle.  Shoot Steve Cole an IM if you want more info on timing of the flickers as it's his product. 
I know that when people use descriptions like that it's very subjective.  The point is to see that they are switching at about an equal rate.

Hope this helps.

[Cat Eye]

Thank for the info.....this has been interesting research for me.

If I understand the ECM and the O2 sensors correctly ...when the ECM is in closed loop control it trims the FAR to 14.7 regardless of the MAP or tune.

Is my understandings correct?

[Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle]

If using the SEST or the Master Tune, you can slightly skew the air fuel mixture a little richer and still have closed loop control. 

[HOGMIKE]

Thank for the info.....this has been interesting research for me.

If I understand the ECM and the O2 sensors correctly ...when the ECM is in closed loop control it trims the FAR to 14.7 regardless of the MAP or tune.

Is my understandings correct?

If you are talking about your bike, you would probably be using lambda cals. There is a closed loop range from 1.012-0.977 lambda IIRC that would be about 14.86-14.34 AFR closed loop.
Of course there are many more variables involved than to say you will ALWAYS be at these settings when going down the road in your closed loop. You can run your closed loop just about at any rpm/load you wish (except the higher ranges)
So many choices, so little time to ride!
JMHO


If you want the straight dope, give Steve C a call at Mastertune and have at least 1/2 hr. to get the details!

[Steve Cole]

The rate at which the lights change is based on what you have the tuning setup for, and what base tune you are using. They are really there just to let us know they are working not to let you see a given rate of change.