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[flhse]

I just received a call from the dealership that measured the run-out.  I can't remember the exact measurements but he said it was easily within spec. When I talked to the service rep I mentioned that having 5 weights on a rear tire and 3 on the front does not speak well of the quality of a tire manufacturing company.  He told me that he was also pissed off because they put 8 weights on his rear tire.  I asked him if his weights fell off and what kind of mileage he got on the tire.  He told me that he was very disappointed in both categories.  Why do we have to use so many weights to properly balance a small motorcycle tire when some tires for quality autos cost less and require less weights to balance.  I just don't understand why we are having so many issues and so few options to cure the problem.  What happens if a person gets involved in an accident due to the tire failing from the cracking if is relatively new, it's not like they can deny the problem.

Thanks for the reference Jerry, not sure what to do at this point.  The bike is on the lift for the winter and also needs a front tire.  I think I will wait until more options are available to us and make a decision before next riding season. 

If you look a little closer you would find the tire isn't your balance issue.  The wheel is way out of balance.  Balance the wheel and the weight needed to balance the tire will be minimal.  Had the same issue with a buddy's wheels, a ton of weights on them, spun them alone without tires and found them to be way off.  The rear was almost 2 ounces off with no tire on it.  Don't blame the tire.

[grc]

Some time back 911 hawk put a Metzeler 200/50 R-18 on a 2009 S/E Roadglide.  I never saw any reports back from him as to how it rode or how it lasted.  You still out there Hawk?   I'm will to take a chance on load capacity (although I shouldn't as I am a fat bastard) but I'm still very concerned about putting radials on a bike designed for bias ply tires.  I would even buy the matching front tire in a radial just to keep front and back the same.

My 2009 S/E Roadglide has always suffered from cupped tires front and back, old design new design.  When I lay the bike over for a curve it sounds and feels like I'm riding on the rumble strip on the side of the road.  I would do anything to get rid of the Dunlops.

How bout it 911Hawk you still with us?   Anyone's thoughts on radials?   Mixing bias and radials?  Lookin' for help here.
 

Besides the load rating issue you should also look closely at the minimum rim size required for many of the supposed alternatives.  You have a 5.0 inch rim stock.  Most 200 series low profile tires I've looked up call for something around 6" for rim size.  Installing a tire on a rim narrower than it was designed for is not a smart idea, just as installing a lower load rated tire isn't a smart idea.  Hopefully folks who choose to roll the dice don't force that decision on unsuspecting passengers.

to has the correct answer for you guys who are desperate to get rid of the Dunflops.  Buy some standard size rims so you can chose from many different widely available tires.  Harley stuck it to you with their choice of rim size, knowing full well that no tire company was designing 180 or 200 series tires to fit that narrow azzed rim and with the correct load rating.  They got Dunflop to come up with a proprietary tire branded for Harley, and Harley has locked you in to buying your tires for inflated prices from them.  Anyone who has followed Harley's business practices over the years shouldn't be surprised.

Keep checking with Michelin and Metzler and Pirelli, as they have supposedly told some folks they plan to introduce tires that will fit properly with the correct load ratings.  Or look for some wheels of an appropriate size from a reputable company.  Perhaps you can solve the tire availability and the lousy wheel balance problems with one purchase.

Jerry

[RayG]

OK FHLSE,

I can and will blame the tire / wheel balancing on some of the tires that cupped prematurely as I have had 16 rear tires in 61,000 miles.  Two had flats and one was damaged by another source but I had 2 to 3 K on each tire before they were changed out.  So we will call it 13+ tires for 53.5K miles.  That averages to 4,100 miles on each tire.  All were Dunlops, when I had them balanced at one shop I only had 1 to 2 weights on them and I would get 5K + miles, cupping was minimal and usually near the end of the tire anyway.  When I went to another dealer I had the last 5 go only 2 to 3k before the rear was cupped so bad I had them removed.  The ride was so chitty I had to have them replaced.  I now have brand new Metzlers on the bike but with the snow I will have another 4 weeks or so before I start riding.  My bike is on its second set of Bitubo's, new swingarm bushings with the True Track, new belt, bearings etc.  Have had the suspension upgrades and True Track since it was near new.   Like many others I would get the front tire cupping after 10K miles so that wasn't a big deal. But never had a rear tire problem until I started going to a different dealer.  I refuse to go back to the other dealer.  If I understand your theory I should have the wheel balanced when I have the next tire removed and see what happens? And then install the tire and re-balance?  Is that correct?  I have no problem trying your method to solve this issue.  By the way I check my tire pressure and adjust my shocks 2 to 3 times a week depending on driving one or two up.  Would you consider sending me a PM on the procedure to do the rear properly, I'm guessing I leave the rotor on and remove the IDS system?  Not disagreeing with you in any way, just looking for answers to solve my problem.   The Metzlers have the same weight rating but they seem very sticky.  On this set I removed the weights and went back to Dyna Beads.   

While at events I usually look at the tires of various bikes and have noticed numerous tires of all makes that were neglected.  Many were under inflated, or cupped with a decent amount of thread on them.  Since many lower their bikes and care more about looking cool than tryly enjoying their ride many have neglected the tire & suspension area.   I may be wrong but I think some are so used to the lousy ride from lowering them or have worn out stock PIS and not really putting the miliage on them that they are totally unaware they are riding on tires that need attention.  I believe the majority of people on this site are more aware of issues that affect the quality of the ride.   

[grc]

Ray, the only thing you would accomplish by balancing the wheel without the tire installed by adding rim weights would be to verify how good or bad the balance of the wheel actually is.  It would provide no other benefit, since you would have to rebalance the complete assembly one you mount the tire.  Hopefully fhlse was just trying to make a point about the wheel being a potential cause for excessive weights being required versus just blaming the tire for the entire amount of imbalance.  In a more perfect world the hard parts like the actual wheels and the rotors would be balanced to very tight tolerances during manufacture so the amount of balance weight required would in fact be almost totally related to the tire itself.  Considering Harley's ideas about tolerances however, I have no doubt at all that many of their wheels and rotors are well out of balance before a tire is ever installed.

Jerry

[GregKhougaz]

My E mail exchange with Metzler today re the new ME 888 Ultra Marathon was not helpful.

From Metzler:

Hello

The new 888 was introduced with 10 new blackwall sizes in 2013, and we expect to follow this trend for next year and the following years. So we can confirm we will bring the most popular sizes to the market in a structured release over the next few years and slowly phase out those same ME880 sizes. With your bike we will be introducing these Triple 8 sizes in the next 2 years or so. Thanks for the e-mail and have a great day.

NA Metzeler M/C Tires Consumer Affairs
877 202-4993
www.metzeler.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Khougaz
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 2:03 PM
To: Metzeler B2C Moto, US
Subject: ME 888 Ultra Marathon

Hi,
I have a 2009 HD FLTRISE (Screamin' Eagle Road Glide).  Do you plan to sell the 888 in sizes:  130/70B18
& 180/55B18 ?  If not, what do you have for my bike?  Thank you very much for your time.

Greg Khougaz

[longlast]

            Hey jettjocky, take a look at these, I'll swing over to when the time comes


http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/general/home/index_en.html

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/tire-tyre-guide/Continental.htm

[grc]

           Hey jettjocky, take a look at these, I'll swing over to when the time comes


http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/general/home/index_en.html

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/tire-tyre-guide/Continental.htm

Continental doesn't have the size he needs.  They do have the 16 inch rears used on the older eglides, but they don't have the 18 inch rears used on the 2009 and later SE Road Glides or Street Glides.  They are an oddball size that no one but Dunflop currently makes.  That is the problem.

Jerry

[longlast]

          Contiental have a new to market out 17/ to19 frunt 17to 18 rear

                       ContiRoadAtak 2:



http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/themes/motorcycletires/sport_touring/road_attack2/contiroadattack2_en.html

[flhse]

Ray, the only thing you would accomplish by balancing the wheel without the tire installed by adding rim weights would be to verify how good or bad the balance of the wheel actually is.  It would provide no other benefit, since you would have to re-balance the complete assembly one you mount the tire.  Hopefully fhlse was just trying to make a point about the wheel being a potential cause for excessive weights being required versus just blaming the tire for the entire amount of imbalance.   In a more perfect world the hard parts like the actual wheels and the rotors would be balanced to very tight tolerances during manufacture so the amount of balance weight required would in fact be almost totally related to the tire itself.  Considering Harley's ideas about tolerances however, I have no doubt at all that many of their wheels and rotors are well out of balance before a tire is ever installed.

Jerry

That is right, you had multiple points and I was trying to make the point the total balance has more to do with the wheel than tire.  I did ask the Dunlop guy at the speedway in Daytona what his thoughts were, first, (chuckle) he has never heard of this issue......  He did add that the tread pattern they have will wear more than others as you describe.  Also air pressure is critical and if you use more of the tire (I found this interesting) it would wear better.  So if you live in the mountains and drive twisties all day the tire would wear better, hmmm.... so he said.  Us flat landers that like to ride in straight flat lines will see more uneven tread wear.  He did suggest the American Elite, has a newer compound, is a more recent developed technology, may show better results in your situation. 

Good luck.

[08glide]

I own 4 h-d. runnin dunlops on all, except 1 frt on 08sg. just put michelin on to compare. buddy from ok put one on rear to compare. I live just off blueridge pkwy in va. so I get alot of curves. ironbutt in ok does alot of flat hwy rides. I get 13k - 16k on rear dunlops. 18 -21k on frt dunlops. I keep up with tpsi. (34-36psi). Dunlops on heritage,deluxe, sg & seuc. before that< I ran dunlops on z1- 900, kz1000 with no problems (actually tire of prefernce). had friend put pirelli on rk & got only3k &tire (rear) was wore slam out. OUCH! never had any luck with metzler or avon on older triumphs. I'll be curious about michelin. thy're advertising to beat dunlop on mileage wear by 50%. hard to believe. that's why my buddy & I are trying one. fyi, some h-d models are coming with michelins on from moco now. try chkin psi on more reg basis. even try nitrogen. I'm experimenting with it as well. Like I said earlier, roads & terrain will make difference. more curves (with less brakes-use down shift method),more even tire wear than on straight flat hwy, tires wear flat in center. (add 3-5 psi for open road & long trips). I do have maintainence records to verify all. sorry, just tryin to offer some input to your delima. good luck! be safe above all else.