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[tweeter13]

If you can try to make sure it's a 6 point not a 12 point, fits better and less chance of rounding the bleeder screw also.

[Steve_G]

If you can try to make sure it's a 6 point not a 12 point, fits better and less chance of rounding the bleeder screw also.

I believe my wrench is a cheap Taiwanese deal.  Anyway, the one that came closest to fitting was this cheap open end 6mm wrench.
I still can't believe that no one seems to know if this is the right size.  -I'd buy a SnapOn if I knew for sure. 

[grc]

I believe my wrench is a cheap Taiwanese deal.  Anyway, the one that came closest to fitting was this cheap open end 6mm wrench.
I still can't believe that no one seems to know if this is the right size.  -I'd buy a SnapOn if I knew for sure. 

It is a 1/4" hex.  Before I posted I decided to verify that with a vernier caliper, and it actually measures 6.35mm, which is 1/4".  My Craftsman 1/4" open end fits but is slightly loose, my 15/64" will not slip on the fitting at all.  A good six point 1/4" would be the best choice.

If you're worried about rounding the hex on the fitting and your 1/4" is kind of loose, use a knuckle buster (adjustable wrench) cranked down tight on the hex to break it loose, then use the 1/4" once it's broken loose. 

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

I believe my wrench is a cheap Taiwanese deal.  Anyway, the one that came closest to fitting was this cheap open end 6mm wrench.
I still can't believe that no one seems to know if this is the right size.  -I'd buy a SnapOn if I knew for sure. 

Just checked my 2000 and 2012 that is currently resting in my shop.  Both are 1/4".

[sadunbar]

I find a 6 point 1/4" socket and a 1/4 drive ratchet works well to break the bleed screw fitting loose, and to tighten it securely when finished bleeding.  And I use a 6 point 1/4" box end wrench during the actual bleeding process,  This way I can attach a clear hose to the bleeder fitting and have a better visual on any air being displaced...   

[Twolanerider]

I find a 6 point 1/4" socket and a 1/4 drive ratchet works well to break the bleed screw fitting loose, and to tighten it securely when finished bleeding.  And I use a 6 point 1/4" box end wrench during the actual bleeding process,  This way I can attach a clear hose to the bleeder fitting and have a better visual on any air being displaced...   

Ditto.  (not sure I've ever said that before)

[Steve_G]

I knew some of you hard core gear heads would have the answer. 
I really appreciate you taking the time to help me get to the bottom of this little problem of mine.
It has just been one of those goofy things that I couldn't quite figure out.
 Thanks
-Steve

[Twolanerider]

I knew some of you hard core gear heads would have the answer. 
I really appreciate you taking the time to help me get to the bottom of this little problem of mine.
It has just been one of those goofy things that I couldn't quite figure out.
 Thanks
-Steve

The one thing you never want to do when flushing the hydraulic clutch is not use a line at all and just bend over the bike and suck on the nipple.  People will look at you funny.... 

[Pete7539]

Plus, there was no rubber cover over the bleeder.  Aren't they all supposed to have one?

They are, but they fall off one way or another. I've got to get a few myself. Somewhere on the forum is a topic about them I think. Thought I remembered someone saying Home Depot sells little rubber caps that work.

[Twolanerider]

I remembered someone saying Home Depot sells little rubber caps that work.

Or bulk packs of little caps for vacuum nipples at the auto parts store.  All cheap to have around in qty for a time they're needed.

[Steve_G]

The one thing you want to clutch and just bend over and suck on the nipple.  People will look at you funny.... 

I know how to work a nipple!
(sorry I screwed with your quote.  I just couldn't resist.) 

[Twolanerider]

(sorry I screwed with your quote.  I just couldn't resist.) 

 

[Retired rider]

@Steve G. I have the same model SE Ultra and just changed fluid in my clutch and ABS brake system. Someone on this website recommended Speed Bleeders and they work fantastic.  http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Its a one man show. There is a check valve in the bleeder as you can see on the there website, so you don't have to have a vacuum tool or do the pump-open-close process. Just make sure the reservoir doest go empty and pump away till you see clean fluid. They even sell a handy hose and bleeder bag, so no mess. You can still have that beer or cocktail when you are done but with much less stress.

[Steve_G]

@Steve G. I have the same model SE Ultra and just changed fluid in my clutch and ABS brake system. Someone on this website recommended Speed Bleeders and they work fantastic.  http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Its a one man show. There is a check valve in the bleeder as you can see on the there website, so you don't have to have a vacuum tool or do the pump-open-close process. Just make sure the reservoir doest go empty and pump away till you see clean fluid. They even sell a handy hose and bleeder bag, so no mess. You can still have that beer or cocktail when you are done but with much less stress.

Thanks for the reply.  I'll check it out! 
I plan on keeping this bike.  I love it, and I haven't had any problems. 
-Steve

[gmeikle]

To be definitive on the DOT 4 / DOT 5 fluid issue.

Up until and including 2005 model year , DOT 5 Silicone original factory OEM fill

Since and including 2006 model year , "Old" DOT 4 original OEM factory fill

Reason for change ? ABS don't like silicone fluid apparently.

( Even tho' the majority of models did not have ABS until 2011 model year !!)

The cynics amongst us may say it's also WAY cheaper for factory fill

Don't mix 'em , turns into a real "chitfest" apparently !