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[North Georgia Hawg]

Your BS detector appears to be working, since your dealer is feeding you pure BS.  Fortunately in this case, the BS isn't going to hurt anything (except his credibility). 

Jerry

+1, Jerry! Total BS from the stealer...

Ken

[cahdbiker]

Josh, regarding oil choices I have made a few. Right now I am running HD Formula+ in the primary. In the trans I run Amsoil Severe Gear 75-140 with 6 oz of Lucas nonsynthetic  additive to top it off. In the engine I use Amsoil straight 60 Wt Racing oil with 1/2 Qt of Lucas nonsynthetic added to correct level (not to top just so it reads a little more than half full) . My bike runs good with minimal oil usage  I have been thru St George Utah at 115 degrees over new blacktop with passenger and luggage no issues. My whiney 5th gear is quieter, although I usually don't use it until I hit over 60MPH. However I still have a little "valve train noise between 2200 an 2800 RPM" that I have complained about here on the sight before. I will live with that until I get to about 25K miles. Then I will have new lifters, new Torrington bearings in the cam case and adjustable pushrods installed. If it turns out to be piston slap then so be it, but I have read on the site before that some of the guys have changed out their cam bearings, put in adjustable lifters and slightly overextended them since it is quite possible the motor expands at a greater rate then the stock pushrods thereby rendering them slightly short. My mechanic is Bennetts Performance in Long Beach. They have a clean shop, run at Bonneville, have their own dyno  and have done some good work for me when I had my 95 Heritage. If he says it is piston  slap then I will just change out the cam bearings and lifters. As mentioned before my oil usage under the most grueling circumstances is so minimal I don't want to mess with the pistons or rings. Sorry for the extended post. CAHDBIKER

[americas]

what are You guys thinking about ROYAL PURPLE oil ? I'm using on my S&S 111 Texas Chopper and working great....

I have FLHRSEI 95" 2002 - what oil I should to used ?

[North Georgia Hawg]

what are You guys thinking about ROYAL PURPLE oil ? I'm using on my S&S 111 Texas Chopper and working great....

I have FLHRSEI 95" 2002 - what oil I should to used ?

Royal Purple scored in the middle of the pack in the AMSOil test in a reply above - tying for first in some categories and scoring dead last or nearly so in others. I've never used it.

You can't go wrong using AMSOil 20W-50 or Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 in the engine. I have used both for a long time in several bikes and I've never had any problem with either oil. I don't use Syn3 and never will.

Ken

[charles05663]

Have anyone ever noticed that RedLine was missing from the report?

 

[Pete7539]

Have anyone ever noticed that RedLine was missing from the report?

 

Yea, just hoping it wasn't number 18 

[grc]

Have anyone ever noticed that RedLine was missing from the report?

 

Back when AMSOIL originally picked the oils involved in their little report (2006/2007), Redline wasn't exactly a big player in the motorcycle market.  In fact the stuff they sell now for V-Twin Transmission's and Primary's was just regular old automotive products.  They didn't rename it for V-Twins until many years later.  And the motor oil wasn't exactly a mainstream product either.  If you wanted to buy their products you normally had to seek them out on the internet and buy them mail order; they weren't readily available in most of the country off the shelf at your local dealer or parts store.

For those who intimate some kind of underhanded reason for AMSOIL to not include Redline, all I have to say is if Redline really was better than AMSOIL or the other top brands, why hasn't Redline responded by publishing their own ratings?  The tests involved are standard oil industry tests that oil companies do to certify their products meet standards, so it's not like they don't know how or don't have the equipment.  Food for thought.

Jerry

[brwk]

Amsoil has never let me down.  I also use it in my 2 trucks and a commuter car.  The car has 180000+ miles and still runs great.  Both trucks and car get there oil and filter changed once a year. I realize its hard to break old oil change habits but times and products have changed greatly.

[LC110]

There a number of good oils out there, But I will stick to the OP's question (Amsoil vs. Syn3)

A Top tier or a boutique oil is determined by the blenders ability to mix the high quality base oil and additives for the best end oil result/s for the application it's intended.

Amsoil's major supplier of PAO base stock is Exxon/Mobil. They purchase some Group III base stocks from Shell, Petro Canada. About 90% of their additive packages come from Lubrizoil.

Syn3 is made by Citgo. MOCO states that SYN3 as a full synthetic, even though it is only 60% synthetic. 40% petroleum based. Making it more of a semi-synthetic. It's not a bad oil it's just not at the level of a true full synthetic.

So if my only choice was these two I would pick Amsoil.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/index.html

Note* I do not use any of these two oils.

[xsdbs]

I also use the Scavenger by Rogue Chopper at every oil change, to pump fresh oil through the engine and get out the quart of old cruddy oil that is still in the crankcase and in the oil cooler after the oil pan has been drained. Takes another quart and a half of new oil - but after a change I have all NEW oil in the system, instead of 25% old dirty oil still in the mix.

I've seen the video where a fresh quart of oil is sucked into the engine.
You're saying it uses 1.5 quarts before fresh oil drains out?
I also assume the oil cooler bypass stays open long enough for it to be flushed too?
Thanks
Vincent

[grc]

I've seen the video where a fresh quart of oil is sucked into the engine.
You're saying it uses 1.5 quarts before fresh oil drains out?
I also assume the oil cooler bypass stays open long enough for it to be flushed too?
Thanks
Vincent

There is actually much less than a quart of oil remaining in the engine after you follow the drain procedure (oil up to operating temp, idle two minutes on the stand to allow the pump to move as much oil as possible to the oil pan, then drain).  The claims of a quart or more are advertising hype designed to convince people they need to run right out and buy this device.  If you don't believe me, then after draining the oil pan and removing the filter go ahead and remove the plug from the bottom of the crankcase to remove and measure any oil that has drained down from the top end but didn't get pumped back to the oil pan.  If your bike is normal you will get around four to six ounces.  Then remove the oil cooler lines and drain and measure the small amount remaining in those lines and the cooler.  Add the amounts you've collected and you won't come up with even a pint, much less the quart or more the advertising implies.  And no, I'm not blowing smoke, I've actually measured this stuff on my bike in the past.  If you want an easier way to estimate it, drain the oil from the oil pan and remove the filter, don't mess with the other items, install the new filter and then add oil until full, run the engine to fill the passages and oil filter and get the oil up to temp, shut it down and top off the oil to the full line.  However much is left in that last bottle of oil is the amount that was still in the engine after you drained the oil pan.  If you really had a full quart still in the engine as those folks claim, you wouldn't have used anything from that fourth quart of oil would you?

Jerry

[willyB]

My 2011 CVO Street Glide - 20,000+ miles

** Crankcase: Mobil 1
** Primary: Mobil1
** Tranny: Mobil 1 BUT Just slapped in a quart of Redline/Shockproof for a try.

2002 Honda Accord V-6 with 220,000: Whatever the cheapest is at Valvoline Instant Oil Change.  Absolutely ZERO issues!

Oil is Oil is Oil.............(if changed on time and not abused)

[dlaws01]

I use Mobil 1 products for a couple of reasons.  There isn't enough difference in quality between Mobil 1 and Amsoil or Redline to draw me to any one in particular, they are all three very fine products.  Mobil 1 is on the shelf of just about every auto parts store, Wal Mart, K Mart, etc. in America and I don't have to special order it or buy it in bulk to get a discount.  As others have stated here,  frequency of oil changes is a key factor in the longevity of an engine.  Except maybe on the 110ci which chance and luck seem to be just as important a factor in how long  your engine last.