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[djkak]

Djkak,

I don't know if you've seen this or not, but it's the pitch Axtell makes when promoting their Oil Bypass system...
 

I have, Scott. I took a look at Axtell’s site after initially getting into this thread. FWIW, I wouldn’t have gotten sucked in this deep if I hadn’t been involved in converting several of the early Shovelheads to the ’81 and later recirculated pressure relief pump. 1981 was a big year for the Shovelhead oiling system, and the new pressure relief was just one of several significant changes that year. I felt that this was a big deal in 1981, as I still do. Can you tell? 

After looking at Axtell’s site, I went poking around the ether, and as mentioned earlier, I discovered that this issue still has a manufacturer or two that continue to argue both sides of it. It would be interesting to discover just how long this argument has been going on. The fluid dynamics discipline is very interesting, very complex, and apparently somewhat theoretical as it is applied to some applications. My sense is that you and I and the others aren’t going to put this to bed. I know a few things, but I don’t have the answer to this one.

I do know that under normal circumstances, and above approximately 2,000 RPM, the Twin Cam bypass is always open; it must be open in order to regulate the oil pressure.  At normal operating temperatures and high RPM, the pressure relief will bleed off a great deal of oil, and if that ends up in the camshest, I believe that this is a fairly big deal.

As mentioned in a previous post, it wouldn’t surprise me to learn that above 4,000 rpm, 15 to 20% or more of the volume pumped from the oil reservoir ends up being dumped into the camchest. This isn’t intermittent, but would happen all day long above 4,000 RPM. The point being that anytime the engine is being run at a high RPM, a significant amount of oil is being dumped into the camshest.

I also have some difficulty with the contention that the oil pressure fluctuates to such a degree that piston jets stop pumping and the lifters collapse, because those things happen at a fairly low pressure, and that condition is simply not supported by an external mechanical, or the existing electrical oil pressure gauge readout.

JMO, Scott. I was hoping to provoke some thought on this topic…looks like mission accomplished. Try to stay warm out there!
 

[ultrafxr]

Bob Wood has a 160 psi lifetime warranty spring, if checked you'll find that they will be almost identical as to the day of install.
Crane has a very reasonably priced set, and AV&V has double-wound, as well as bee-hives for the 5/16" stems, that are also top-notch.
Scott

AV&V was recommended as well as Wood.  I will check in to them.  May consider doing something on my '07 as it will be out of ESP coverage in November.  As for the '12 with moco warranty and then five years of ESP, well I may just let them continue to foot the bill.  Cost of removing the heads to swap out valve springs may be a show stopper.  But I will be keeping a close ear on both these motors for sure.  

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Right on.
Pulling the heads to change out a valve spring unless broken, is not at all a cost-effective route.
Scott

[Twolanerider]

As for the '12 with moco warranty and then five years of ESP, well I may just let them continue to foot the bill.

Jerry, how expensive is it letting them foot the bill when you've got to get breakdowns to Kansas City from the road, get to Memphis, go back to Kansas City then haul it all home?

[ultrafxr]

Jerry, how expensive is it letting them foot the bill when you've got to get breakdowns to Kansas City from the road, get to Memphis, go back to Kansas City then haul it all home?

I've arranged for all future breakdowns to be within 50 mile radius of home or 25 mile radius of Twolane's garage.   

[Twolanerider]

I've arranged for all future breakdowns to be within 50 mile radius of home or 25 mile radius of Twolane's garage.   

And the beer fridge is self-refilling!

[Rooster]

And the beer fridge is self-refilling!

All you have to do is program which brands to keep in stock? I want one.

[bowtech40]

After reading all the posts on here, I decided it was time to check my lifters as I had one ticking in the front. These had 4800 miles on them, and were Gaterman 1021`s. Though they all looked fine I replaced them with another set of the same, and the ticking is gone. When I did the cam change I took out the stock C lifters and switched them out to Gatermans which I have had good luck with. The cam is a TC-24 set at 10:1. Makes me wonder if I had a bad set of lifters, or does the 110 really hammer them bad this fast? Bike is a 2012 FLTRXSE.

[dlg]

Now this is what I am talking about.  Preventative maintenance on the bikes.  Why fight city hall.  Just replace them when you hear a problem.  Makes perfect sense to me. 

David

[CircleRacer]

I had lifter problems on my 09 cvo 110 at 35,000 miles installed new inner cam bearings to get the cheap ones out and installed Woods lifters. When I start the engine for the first time in the morning the lifters are ticking for about 1 to 2 minutes then they are OK the rest of the day. They must bleed off when setting and just takes a bit to pump up at first start of the day. I would like to change to a lifter that does not rattle at start up because I know this is not doing the lifter or the valve tips any good.

[HD Street Performance]

OK so what about the crud that went through the motor where do you think that ended up?
In the new lifters.
The lifter likely has crud in it that prevents proper sealing. So this is probably not an issue of poor quality replacement parts, but there is that possibility too.
I don't think many of these motors get a proper flushing when they loose a lifter.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

OK so what about the crud that went through the motor where do you think that ended up?
In the new lifters.
The lifter likely has crud in it that prevents proper sealing. So this is probably not an issue of poor quality replacement parts, but there is that possibility too.
I don't think many of these motors get a proper flushing when they loose a lifter.

    We just pulled a pan on a engine that had had 3 sets of lifters put into it and they all starting making noise in a short time. It had lost one early on under warranty and the dealer said they clean pan and flushed engine. We found a bunch junk in the lower end. Clean pan, inspect pump to find that it was scored as well. Replaced that and the bike has been to sturgis and now back without any issues.

[CircleRacer]

Deweysheads,
I changed the lifters as soon as one of them started to rattle and did not get quiet 4 t0 5 minutes after start up. It did not destroy its self I had no steel debris any where when it was removed. 

[Mr John DEUFF]

I have installed Feuling lifters to avoid HD lifters problem and the front cylinder is still noisy. I could notice that one of the lifter had the inside plate (I don't know the exact name of this part which is locking the spring inside the lifter) was blocked, compared with the other lifter: when you're pressing this plate you can feel the spring.
So I have opened it and couldn't notice anything, then when I built it back it has become normal (the plate was moving). But when I have installed it in his place and put the pushrod it seems to be blocked again.
Now I find my engine more noisy than in the past, nothing exceptional but the front cylinder is more noisy than the rear. But I have to say than I have replaced both front cylinder's valves.
This noise is annoying me so I would like to install Black Ops because them seem to be good but I couldn't find where I could buy them.

[North Georgia Hawg]

...
This noise is annoying me so I would like to install Black Ops because them seem to be good but I couldn't find where I could buy them.

Headquarters' ordering phone number is 519-892-6992. You can also order via e-mail to info@head-quarters.com. Their website is http://www.head-quarters.com/

There are also dealers, but I don't know who any dealers are.

Ken