Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[SBB]

A special thanks to Scott (Sadunbar) who has been great in answering questions giving advice thru PM's..

Two things Bob.

1) There is no better advice than advice from Scott.
He will give you good direction on what else to do.

2) I have been looking for a Massey Ferguson for the Maggie Valley property.
Everyone I talk with says I need to consider a Kubota.


Good luck with the outcome.
With a few bikes in the garage I know my time is coming.

 

SBB

[CVO2FIXUP]

  My cam chest looked exactly like yours at 17,000 miles. Replaced everything with Fueling and went with the gear driven cams. Love the 110 now.  Thing is strong and very quiet. Oil pressure if off the hook as well. Reads close to 50 at idle. Its a few bucks to do but what a great result.  Luckey your crank is OK. Mine was 009' out.   

[HD Street Performance]

Do yourself a favor and at bare minimum clean the and inspect the heads and valves then:
1.  Check the valve to guide fit
2.  Replace the seals with the latest from HD
3.  Get yourself some new AV&V beehive valve springs from Goodson

[Boatman]

Gary, Brian, Chip, CVO2-

Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I never in a million years thought I would find a hydraulic tensioner bad.  Thought this design was supposed to be the answer.  

I thought about just throwing in a set of lifters after taking the lifter covers off.  Glad I didn't.  Had to knock the lifter covers and cam cover off with a rubber mallet.  Was afraid of chipping paint, metal, or chrome with something sharp.

My bike ran perfect.  No abnormal noises.  Oil pressure was still good.  

I found no metal in the rocker area or cam area.  If I would have overlooked the oil drain plug, I would have had a major failure in the spring.  These particles were microscopic.

Chip-Do your self a favor and buy a Kubota if you are buying a CUT (compact utility tractor).  Already did the homework for you-I wanted green/yellow so bad (passed), looked at New Holland, Massey.  Go to www.tractorbynet.com  and they have a informative forum too.  Kubota is simply the best.

Dewey-Have read about rear cyl valve guides sticking also.  Thanks for the advice.  Maybe above my doable level.  How do you keep the cylinders from moving-don't want to pull the jugs.


Thanks everyone for any help/suggestions/advice.

[Boatman]

If I had run this to redline every shift it would have been different.  I am not hard on anything I operate.

This is the most costly vehicle to operate that I own.

Front wheel bearings at 17,000 miles

Inner primary seal leak at 18,000 miles-then found SE compensator worn out-probably due for another compensatator soon.

Heated grips failed

And now this fiasco at 33,000 miles

We wouldn't put up with this from any other maker.  My 05 looks really good at this point but it had a crap load of problems to.  All above on my dime-no warranty.

If you can't do anything, buy the extended warranty.  But I know just about mechanics to be dangerous and that is the sad part.  If it weren't for this forum and your help I would not have tackled this.

[Twolanerider]

Sorry to read this Bob.  Have seen others of the newer style tensioner be worn at under 40k.  Enough so that my personal change rate with them now is 25k just like the old ones.  They're too cheap not to check that often when the result of full failure is so devastating.

FWIW I only know of four sets of the Zippers tensioners in use.  One showed significant wear at just less than 30k.  Not to the point of immediate failure.  But close enough it was due for a preventative maintenance change.  It's just one data point so not enough to base anything on.  But given the tone of tensioners in general it was enough to make me think I'd open up a cam chest just check them just as often as I would the stock pieces.

At least your crank was good.  .003 is at the outer tolerance for considering gear drive though.  Still, it's better than many.  Glad you're getting it all sorted for now.  Ready to ride in the spring.  Just think, by the time it's had another 30k cycle and is ready for all this again the Indian bikes will have been out long enough you'll know if they're a viable option and you can tell the MoCo to just pound sand next time or not.

[grc]

As was the case with the old style spring loaded tensioners, I believe the quality of the chains has as much if not more to do with the excessive tensioner shoe wear problems.  Supposedly the change to a roller chain was going to eliminate the rapid and excessive wear, so I'd love to hear Harley's latest excuse for their stuff wearing out in 30k miles while the auto industry has tensioners that last well beyond 100k.  And there is no excuse for the chains themselves to be worn out at 30k either. 

I guess we just have to assume that Harley is happy with drivetrains that only last 30k.  It's another profit center for them since most folks wind up buying and using Harley's parts to fix the crap. 

Jerry

[TN]

All in all, I am really disappointed in Harley's flagship model.  I will never purchase another CVO from them  now that they approach $40,000..  What a joke.  I hope Harley monitors this forum.  This is really sad.

 

Had to take a picture of my beloved 2003 Kubota tractor with 850 hours and the original battery.  All I do is change oil and filter and fluids and lube-knock wood.  Prouder of it than my CVO-just me-it is a quality piece from bumper to 3 point hitch.

 Glad you caught it before it was a catastrophic failure. I concur on yer assessment of the MOCO and their flagship 110's. 

I'm a Kubota fan also. I have a mid 90's two cylinder diesel that just keeps on giving. I did however have to replace two u-joints on it this year at 40 bucks a pop.


TN

[Boatman]

Thanks Don, Jerry, and TN..

The bike was using no oil.  (Really the perfect 110) If I pull the heads and have valves and guides replaced without pulling the jugs and doing rings, I believe I will have the top end sealed up and then will use oil thru the rings?     

Don't know whether to go any further or not.

I don't know why the inner tensioner is the one that fails whether it be spring loaded or oiled.  Will have a new inner chain for sure.

Can't rememeber the movie "but you're in it deep now boy whether you want to or not"...   Or something to that effect.

If it weren't for 2Lane, I wouldn't have done 1/2 of the things to the 05 to make it better.  Now it is Scott and others .   Again-Thanks.

[harleyguynv]

Just an FWY. I tried the Andrews 54 cam in my 110 as a bolt in without touching the heads and gaskets. I lost significant tq. I  don't know if it works well in some engines and not others as a bolt in or not. Like you I did not want to mess with the jugs and disturb the lower o rings. I know Steve gets great results when he changes the head gaskets so that is definitely what I would do if I did it again. I put the 255's back in and love the low end power. I have an 07 SEUC and ride 2 up The gearing is a little tall in the 07's and I need that low end tq.

[aclass]

Thanks for sharing boatman and sorry for the unpleasant discovery.  On a positive note, you have the peace of mind on the run out and caught it before a catastrophe occurred.  Definitely encourages me to open mine up for a look at 22K miles even after changing the lifters at 17K.

BTW, bought a new L2650 in 1994 and have 971 hours on it now, not a second worth of trouble. One of the best purchases I've ever made.

Good luck on the rebuild.

[RayG]

Sorry you had to go through the ordeal with the fairly low mileage.  Allot of us went through very similar wear items but many of us had excessive flywheel run out which made things very expensive without a warranty.  For the money we spend it would be reasonable to expect to achieve much higher mileage on our machines before routine maintenance & some minor wear items required replacement.  I won't say I will never purchase another new HD product, but I can say that it is highly unlikely.  One positive thing about owning a CVO & being a member of this forum is the knowledge & generosity of numerous members that give us so much of their time.  As far as forums this one is by far the best hands down.     

[twinotter]

  Real sorry to hear of your "perfect" 110 letting you down. Every time I see someone check their crank runout, andsay .003, yeah, I'm good, I cringe!!
Back in 01, when I bought my 88" Dyna, the manual called for .000 to .0025!!! They said the crank needed attention if it ran .003!!!!!!  IMO, the HD spec of .012 is ludicrous, Briggs & Stratton does far better!! Harley needs a major a... kicking for this junk.
 My 01 had a forged steel crank, Iran a supercharger at 12lbs boost for 3 years. I did not baby it, shifting constantly at 6500 rpm with a 95" kit in it.
Never had the slightest issue, crank measured .001 (was checked during the supercharger install).
I don't see the hydraulic tensioners and cheaper chains as being a solution at all, the original hyvo chain was much stronger. I poilished the outside of the chain, and it never showed any wear on the tensioner blocks.
You are seeing the results of massive cutbacks in quality IMO, while improving the profit margin for the shareholders.
I still have the 01, now with and S&S motor (sold the supercharged assly complete). I will never buy another Harley,  I like the one  I have.  JM2C  FWIW   Buffalo

[porthole]

Bob - why not gears?

[Twolanerider]

Bob - why not gears?

Can't speak for Bob but even if it's .003" now I don't trust them to stay even that "good" if they're that way to begin with.  Some, too many, just don't.  And, at least for me, I don't like to use gears past .0025" and prefer .002" or less.  Honestly without having significant crank work done prior to the installation of gears I'd never use gear drive in the 96" and up era Harley engines.  Just don't trust them.