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[timo482]

i appreciate it... thanks

the subject is TQ & HP... a HUGE factor in how we "perceive" tq and hp is gearing. 07 and 08 bikes are way way too tall geared. top that off with running a TLE on the bike and my empty wt is more than most guys loaded wt - and I'm near 400 and my wife is @)) so it just SUCKS getting it moving, however i only use 6th running with no passenger with no headwind, its useful then, but just barely useful i don't run 6 very often, possibly 5% of the time.

is it hard on the trans to run it hundreds and hundreds of miles in 5th.. i keep thinking its a bad idea to have to run in 5th???

just adding cubes - or cams - or whatnot and it will still be horrible at stop signs, especially uphill, and those mods are a pile of cash and need a tuner - no gain for me..

what is the fly in the ointment all around is that to make any of these mods work properly i need to get tts to manage the cruise control, or manage the final drive so the spedo is not radically off. if i do a dd7 and cruise won't work in 6th and since i currently often run long periods in 5th gear at high speed due to the gearing being way too tall no cruise is a hassle. - i could see ending up doing a dd7 and a 31 - 68 gearing.. thats spending as much cash as possible at one time on gears..... <grin>  gets distatestfull like chasing a rainbow..

the motivation to go 30 68 is that its pretty close to current tri glide ratio and they are pretty close to the same wt... and tts does not have to be done on the same day or even the same year and it will run right other than the speedo being way way off.

the other thing about changing pulleys is the belts - stock belts seem to be superior to aftermarket belts.. going down on one and up on the other *should* result in a belt that fits. and there is a 68 ids pulley in the catalog that will fit a 07. [well its not obvious, but it IS there]

a dd7 will provide almost the same ratio in first that a tri glide has in first [if my math is not completely faulty] and use a stock belt and leave the speedo working properly. the belt and pully route is 800 in parts - plus tts to fix the speedo is 1300. a dd7 is 2300 - so it has to be a "better" solution to be worth the extra cash.

no good answers here - all that said the next item on the list is lifters, enough miles that i really should do lifters - ill borrow a boroscope and look down through the bores and see if there are any reasons to take the cover off - with a  hd sidecar its a HUGE job to take the side cover off. if nothing is found in the cam case needing money its a really cheap job to change the lifter, take the tank off, a couple covers and out come the pushrods.. swap and put it back together. if anything is found bad in the cam case - well that gets done and the gearing will get put off till next winter.

the world changed, the bike is paid for - I'm going to keep it a while - gearing is really the ONLY irritant to date.

to

[Para Bellum]

DoubleCoppers

You will need to change the primary Ratio in your Mastertune if its a J1850 bike. The stock setting will be 1.353 and you need to change it to ~1.430 for the DD7 to work. The people that have done this tell us that the cruise now works in 5 - 7th and some say it also works in 4th.

Steve,

Good info, and many thanks for that.  It is J1850, and I'd be happy with 5 - 7 cruise.

Bryce

Forget the thread jack....lol. I think I am the op on this one and we are learning and getting smarter.... Isn't that what we are here for?
David

 

[Yellow09SERG]

i appreciate it... thanks

the subject is TQ & HP... a HUGE factor in how we "perceive" tq and hp is gearing. 07 and 08 bikes are way way too tall geared. top that off with running a TLE on the bike and my empty wt is more than most guys loaded wt - and I'm near 400 and my wife is @)) so it just SUCKS getting it moving, however i only use 6th running with no passenger with no headwind, its useful then, but just barely useful i don't run 6 very often, possibly 5% of the time.

is it hard on the trans to run it hundreds and hundreds of miles in 5th.. i keep thinking its a bad idea to have to run in 5th???

just adding cubes - or cams - or whatnot and it will still be horrible at stop signs, especially uphill, and those mods are a pile of cash and need a tuner - no gain for me..

what is the fly in the ointment all around is that to make any of these mods work properly i need to get tts to manage the cruise control, or manage the final drive so the spedo is not radically off. if i do a dd7 and cruise won't work in 6th and since i currently often run long periods in 5th gear at high speed due to the gearing being way too tall no cruise is a hassle. - i could see ending up doing a dd7 and a 31 - 68 gearing.. thats spending as much cash as possible at one time on gears..... <grin>  gets distatestfull like chasing a rainbow..

the motivation to go 30 68 is that its pretty close to current tri glide ratio and they are pretty close to the same wt... and tts does not have to be done on the same day or even the same year and it will run right other than the speedo being way way off.

the other thing about changing pulleys is the belts - stock belts seem to be superior to aftermarket belts.. going down on one and up on the other *should* result in a belt that fits. and there is a 68 ids pulley in the catalog that will fit a 07. [well its not obvious, but it IS there]

a dd7 will provide almost the same ratio in first that a tri glide has in first [if my math is not completely faulty] and use a stock belt and leave the speedo working properly. the belt and pully route is 800 in parts - plus tts to fix the speedo is 1300. a dd7 is 2300 - so it has to be a "better" solution to be worth the extra cash.

no good answers here - all that said the next item on the list is lifters, enough miles that i really should do lifters - ill borrow a boroscope and look down through the bores and see if there are any reasons to take the cover off - with a  hd sidecar its a HUGE job to take the side cover off. if nothing is found in the cam case needing money its a really cheap job to change the lifter, take the tank off, a couple covers and out come the pushrods.. swap and put it back together. if anything is found bad in the cam case - well that gets done and the gearing will get put off till next winter.

the world changed, the bike is paid for - I'm going to keep it a while - gearing is really the ONLY irritant to date.

to

timo you might jump over on the DD7 thread in the drivetrain section too. There is a lot of discussion there also about the cruise

[FlaHeatWave]

It's interesting how the operating range of the power plant, the gearing, even the tires, all come into play on our vehicles, and what we want out of them.

The MoCo's adjustment to recent emissions regs. reminds me of the early '70s autos...

[Yellow09SERG]

Yes it takes a balance of all for us to be happy, and then if you ask my wife she will tell you all about how HD has stopped making the best seat ever! But that's a whole different story

[Snowyone]

I did the 124S&S with the ported 110 heads and at the same time did the DD7.  I think for money spent and if starting over would do the DD7 first and think about the motor later.  I like it that well.  I don't really notice having to shift through another gear and with the motor don't really need to shift much but the ratios are so nicely spaced and first gear is such a blessing for parking lot maneuvers and close quarter work.  Now the cam I went with a Woods 408-6 which could be a good choice.  Some moan about a little valvetrain noise but my roller rockers make more noise than the cam using woods lifters.  Maybe I was lucky but I've no complaint and the cam is a torque monster that comes on in the low 2000 range.  No dyno work yet, just using the Power Vision, so all remarks are by butt dyno and mountain pass.

[ltank]

I have a S&S V111 with a 585 cam I find it has great power. Have over 45k miles in just over 2 years with. No problems. Has good power at all RPM. On a 580 pound FXR4