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[mark]

The problem I'm experiencing with the front brake is: when I first apply the front brake, the lever will pull in about an inch from the grip.  If I release the lever and repull, the lever only pulls in about a 1/2 inch (similar to when the bike was new).

I was thinking about bleeding it to see if that would help; however, I read on-line that you must bleed the ABS brakes with a HD Digital Technician II.  Am I wasting my time trying to do a traditional brake bleed?  Bike is a 2010 SESG with about 12,000 miles.

[robertg]

I've done it before, shouldn't be a problem. Check your fluid level in the reservoir also. Sometimes when it gets low and your bars are turned, you will get air in the system. It happens more with aftermarket bars that put your master cylinder at a funky angle.

[Jswerve]

Sure can. I installed apes and extended cables and bled them without issue. Many have.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

[mark]

Thanks guys.

[hd-dude]

Mark, the operation you are experiencing is pretty typical to the abs bike. 

Anytime you open the brakes on an ABS equipped bike you need to bleed the brakes properly using the digital tech or on of the aftermarket units designed for this purpose. The issue is that air can get into the abs module and remain trapped there until the module activates. Picture this.....you have bled your brakes and all is well. You need to do a panic stop and the abs kicks in and introduces air into the brake line. No more brakes!  This May or may not happen but is it worth the risk?

[2k]

If your reservoir has never ran empty and the lines have never been opened the chances of air being in the ABS module are very remote. If all you do is bleed the calipers and are careful, no problem. I have changed cailpers on 5 ABS Harleys and never a problem.

[Supershooter]

It's a risk/reward deal for me, save $90 or may not have brakes in an emergency situation, I spend the money, Life vs $90, I'll spend the money.
Supershooter

[sadunbar]

Mark, the operation you are experiencing is pretty typical to the abs bike. 

Anytime you open the brakes on an ABS equipped bike you need to bleed the brakes properly using the digital tech or on of the aftermarket units designed for this purpose. The issue is that air can get into the abs module and remain trapped there until the module activates. Picture this.....you have bled your brakes and all is well. You need to do a panic stop and the abs kicks in and introduces air into the brake line. No more brakes!  This May or may not happen but is it worth the risk?

Jim explains the issue well and his advice is spot on...   

[grc]

I'm not trying to demean anyone with this comment, but when it comes to things that directly affect safety I absolutely believe in doing things the right way and not taking shortcuts to save a buck.  Perhaps the people who offer advice that flies in the face of what the experts say just haven't thought it through completely, but whatever the reason I hope those seeking advice on the internet take the comments with a grain of salt and don't just go with the advice that tells them what they want to hear.  For instance, plenty of members ask questions about alternatives to the stock tires, and in nearly every thread we get someone who tells them they can install brand X in size Y.  The fact that the tire being recommended doesn't meet the minimum requirements for rim size and load rating is glossed over or not mentioned until some jerk like me brings it up, and at that point we get the input that it must be OK because Joe Blow installed that tire on his bike a few months ago and he hasn't had any problems.  Yeah, that's exactly the input I'd use to make a life or death decision (not).  The same thing applies in this thread.  Sure, some folks have managed to ignore the warnings and get away with it.  But considering the fact that riding a bike is already a bit of a crap shoot, why would you want to take a chance just to save a half hour labor at a shop equipped with the tool to do the bleeding correctly?

Btw, obviously you don't need to run the m/c empty or crack a line to introduce air into the system.  If air can get into a caliper even though you never removed or loosened the fitting, it can get into an ABS pump.  Do yourself a favor and just follow the instructions that every single manufacturer with ABS includes, be it Harley, Honda, BMW, Ford, GM, Toyota, whatever.  Somehow I don't think they are all wrong.

JMHO - Jerry

[Jswerve]

I'm not trying to demean anyone with this comment, but when it comes to things that directly affect safety I absolutely believe in doing things the right way and not taking shortcuts to save a buck.  Perhaps the people who offer advice that flies in the face of what the experts say just haven't thought it through completely, but whatever the reason I hope those seeking advice on the internet take the comments with a grain of salt and don't just go with the advice that tells them what they want to hear.  For instance, plenty of members ask questions about alternatives to the stock tires, and in nearly every thread we get someone who tells them they can install brand X in size Y.  The fact that the tire being recommended doesn't meet the minimum requirements for rim size and load rating is glossed over or not mentioned until some jerk like me brings it up, and at that point we get the input that it must be OK because Joe Blow installed that tire on his bike a few months ago and he hasn't had any problems.  Yeah, that's exactly the input I'd use to make a life or death decision (not).  The same thing applies in this thread.  Sure, some folks have managed to ignore the warnings and get away with it.  But considering the fact that riding a bike is already a bit of a crap shoot, why would you want to take a chance just to save a half hour labor at a shop equipped with the tool to do the bleeding correctly?

Btw, obviously you don't need to run the m/c empty or crack a line to introduce air into the system.  If air can get into a caliper even though you never removed or loosened the fitting, it can get into an ABS pump.  Do yourself a favor and just follow the instructions that every single manufacturer with ABS includes, be it Harley, Honda, BMW, Ford, GM, Toyota, whatever.  Somehow I don't think they are all wrong.

JMHO - Jerry

Can't argue with one thing you said Jerry. All good points.

My biggest issue with any dealers, cars, motorcycles, bicycles lol is I just don't trust that they are doing what they say they are.

Jesse

[Twolanerider]

It's not a cheap tool but the Twin Scan II ABS scan tool allows you to bleed ABS brakes.  Plus you'll gain all the other functionality of the Twin Scan tool. 

[Eagle Eye]

Agreed, Jim's advice is spot on.


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[2k]

Can't argue with common sense.......however, I have no doubt that I care about my scooter more than any MMI grad. Not saying this to dis anyone as there are SOME super techs at SOME MoCo shops. The key word is SOME. I'll keep on, y'all keep on and there is one thing that can't be argued with..........the advice you get on these pages is like the Bible, you can't lose by reading it. 

[rheiner]

It's not a cheap tool but the Twin Scan II ABS scan tool allows you to bleed ABS brakes.  Plus you'll gain all the other functionality of the Twin Scan tool.

Are there any other options/tools that are cheaper than Twin Scan II ABS to bleed ABS brakes? I wouldn't use all the other functions. 

[Twolanerider]

Are there any other options/tools that are cheaper than Twin Scan II ABS to bleed ABS brakes? I wouldn't use all the other functions.

I've not had reason to specifically look but have seen no other tool to do this in any press I've noticed.  I had the previous version of the TwinScan tool that predated ABS on Harley's (not the cop bike only ABS variant but the 2008 production variant).  Shortly after those bikes came out Daytona offered a relatively inexpensive upgrade and I took advantage. 

Have no idea what the upgrade is now since I've not had reason to check prices since then either.  Might be worthwhile to watch for an older version of the TwinScan tool on eBay then just pay for the upgrade though?