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[Doubletap]

I haven't been on the board here in quite a while so apologies up front if I'm covering a often repeated topic. I searched and could not find anything exactly like my question. So here it is:

2005 CVO ElectraGlide. Bought used and engine has had some mods done to it. Dealer thinks cams and possibly head work. Definitely has cams. I added an air intake kit, V&H True Duals and Rinehart slip ons. Took it to the dealer after everything was installed, bought the Super Tuner and had them dyno tune it. Wasn't happy with the result so had them do it again. Better but still not right. That was two years ago this summer.

My complaints are the common decel pop but also the idle is too low. I've checked to make sure there are no exhaust leaks so it seems that additional fine tuning is needed. So I downloaded the SEST software and I'm considering attempting the fine tuning myself. I'm looking for advice from someone that has done this. Am I nuts for attempting it?

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Not sure how you are going to self tune unless you have added closed loop 02 sensors or bought another stand alone wide band data logging system with software.. .

Provided the map is loaded in the module it can be altered. Idle can be changed and the decell is blanket correction type deal.

[ben31]

The first thing you should try to eliminate the pops is to lower the AFR values in the first column of the AFR table at the RPM where pops occur.

[grc]

Actually, the FIRST thing to do to try to eliminate the popping is to make absolutely certain there are no air leaks in the exhaust system.  Once that has been done and confirmed, then if it still pops you can try adding or subtracting fuel at the throttle setting and rpm where you have the problem.  There are different ways to go about it, depending on the tuning system.  Look for a decel enleanment setting for instance.  I'm not the expert by a long shot, so detailed instructions will have to come from someone else.

When you say the idle is too low, how are you determining that?  Do you have a known good tachometer with which to check idle speed, or are you just going by the tach on the bike, or perhaps are you just using the ear method?  Idle speed is specified at 980 rpm at normal operating temp.  That idle speed should be slightly higher when cold, and it will drop to 900 rpm when the engine temperature gets very high.  That was the early version of the Engine Idle Temperature Management System, where they just altered timing and fuel plus lowered rpm when the engine got too hot, and eventually used what they called skip-fire (misfire on purpose).  Idle speed is controlled by what is called the IAC, and if the idle doesn't respond as noted above perhaps you will need to do some diagnostics on the IAC.

If all else fails, find a good full time professional tuner (not the Harley dealer).  Depending on your location that might require a road trip, but it beats the heck out of dealing with local incompetents.

Jerry

[Doubletap]

I'm 98% sure there are no exhaust leaks but I will check again prior to making any programming changes. I wish it would be that simple.

As for idle speed I'm saying it's too low based on the fact that the bike shakes so hard at hot idle that the CD player skips. A light twist of the throttle puts the dash tach slightly above 1,000 rpm and the bike smooths out considerably.

[grc]

I'm 98% sure there are no exhaust leaks but I will check again prior to making any programming changes. I wish it would be that simple.

As for idle speed I'm saying it's too low based on the fact that the bike shakes so hard at hot idle that the CD player skips. A light twist of the throttle puts the dash tach slightly above 1,000 rpm and the bike smooths out considerably.

That was a fairly common thing with the 2005 SEEG2.  First, the CD players were known for skipping even when brand new when the engine vibration hit certain frequencies.  It gets worse as the bike gets older btw; the vibration isolation system in those radio's is stone age at best.

There are several things you should check besides the tune for this issue.  First, the front motor mounts were prone to fail, which would allow the engine to transmit more vibration to the frame and the rest of the bike.  Second, the fairing brackets were also prone to cracking, which allowed the fairing to shake like a hula dancer on speed.  Harley eventually released a new design that seems to be working much better.  Mine have been fine since I replaced them several years ago.  And then yes indeed, the tune as it came from mother Harley sucked big time from idle up to nearly 2000 rpm.  Fixing that made my bike idle better and smoother and also made the bike smooth enough to ride between 1500 and 2000 rpm without jerking and jumping all over the place.  I'm willing to bet that your dealership "tuner" didn't bother with low speed and light throttle settings at all.  That's why you need a real professional tuner, not some kid that runs the dyno when he isn't doing oil changes.

If you get the tune right, you don't need to jack up the idle speed above what it's originally set at.  Raising idle speed has it's own set of negatives, and it's best to stick pretty close to the original setting.

Jerry

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Bumping the idle to 1026-1050 is not going to create any issues and in many cases will help with the low speed roughness,
But I doubt the oil change kid can be of much help though.

[Doubletap]

The "oil change kid on the dyno" is a big problem around here. Apparently I have to load the bike up and haul it to another state to get competent tuning accomplished. That's why I thought about buying the cables and trying it myself. More research to be done here it seems.