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[panhead1]

I have a noise at start up till the motor gets hot in the valve train.  The lifters themselves always made the noise when it was cold and it was a constant noise till they finally pumped up so just thought it was only them.  Cause it would still make a ticking noise around 1800 rpm when you gave it throttle just like a lifter not pumped up but only when you gave it a blurp on the throttle.  But once it was all hot after awhile wouldn't make noise anymore.  so i changed out the woods lifters to some s&s premiums and they don't have the noise at start up like the woods did but still have that noise till it gets hot around like a lifter not adjusted right at certain rpms till its hot.  What could that be?  Rocker arms getting worn out?  Its on an 06 seuc. 

[sadunbar]

I have a noise at start up till the motor gets hot in the valve train.  The lifters themselves always made the noise when it was cold and it was a constant noise till they finally pumped up so just thought it was only them.  Cause it would still make a ticking noise around 1800 rpm when you gave it throttle just like a lifter not pumped up but only when you gave it a blurp on the throttle.  But once it was all hot after awhile wouldn't make noise anymore.  so i changed out the woods lifters to some s&s premiums and they don't have the noise at start up like the woods did but still have that noise till it gets hot around like a lifter not adjusted right at certain rpms till its hot.  What could that be?  Rocker arms getting worn out?  Its on an 06 seuc.

What's your mileage?  The most common wear point on rocker arms is the bushings that the rocker arm shafts run inside of.  It's possible to replace the bushings.  The bushings themselves are cheap.  Press out the old bushings, press in the new bushings, then ream them to size.  Many sources for the proper size reamer - JIMS, MOCO and others...

[panhead1]

I am at 64k miles.  Had the motor apart and redid it all about 15k miles ago.  Didn't change out the bushings.   Didn't seem bad.  Just was wondering what else that noise could be before just opening up the motor again. 

[panhead1]

Well I changed lifters again just to make sure that wasn't it.  Sounds mostly in the rear head.  Not sure what it could be.  Guess I will have to pull off the rocker covers and see if I can find something.  Not sure what else to check. It seems to be the only place the noise is coming from.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

If the noise continues until fully warmed, I'd doubt it would be a lifter issue.
Scott

[panhead1]

Ya scott don't think it has anything to do with the lifters.  put 2 different sets in to see if there was a change and still the same.  I pulled the cam cover off to see if the hydrolic tensioner was bad or anything loose.  It has about 30k miles on it and hardly any wear and chain was tight and lobes of cams didn't look bad.  so not sure what else to look for in that cover.  Took the rocker cover off also to see if something loose up there in the rocker arms and everything seems fine.  There is no up and down movement in the rockers.  You can move them side to side about a 1/16 of an in but been like that since i had the bike.  No marks on the rockers from the valves.  Kinda stumped on what in might be.  Not sure what else to look for without taking the whole motor apart.  If anyone has any other suggestions. 

[HD Street Performance]

Cold worse piston slap hot worse valve train.
When the exhaust valve rear head sticks in the guide the will sound bad before actually misfiring or failing.

[panhead1]

Well i put the motor back to gether after checking out some things.  pretty sure the noise must be piston slap.  Just weird it started doing it only after 15k miles.  When i started it up today when cold makes pretty good noise that sounds like lifters and some of it probably is till they pump up.  Once getting warmed up it will stop at an idle but every time you give it some throttle it will make the noise right at about 1800 rpms going up or down when not totally warmed up.  When i listened with the stethoscope the only place i can really the the noise is when i have it on the cylinder.  not just trying to decide if i want to dissasemble the whole motor again or just finish out the season and see what happens.  They are weisco pistons. 

[HD Street Performance]

Just weird it started doing it only after 15k miles

Yes it is on a 103" motor. Personally I am not in love with Wiseco slipper skirt pistons and use others such as Mahle and CP because they provide better skirt support. The fit in the cylinder from the inception and being sure the cylinders are round and straight in torque plates is also important. Get this right with the OEM cast piston or many aftermarket pistons and the cylinder package will be stable for a normal life cycle, assuming the tune is right and the motor is not overheated.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We use a TON of Wiseco pistons here with great result.
S&S, and even the Moco subscribe to that manufacturer as well.
Scott

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Does does sound like piston slap. When you said you re did the engine. What did you do??

 Myself am not in love with wiseco piston's and S&S is now using CP for some of there kits.    But I do not see where the OP stated what piston he used or really what he did at all

[HD Street Performance]

Steve
See post #7 Re Wiseco

[INDEPENDENT_1]

I've used both Wiseco and CP here and never had a problem with either. Both have their pros and cons IMO. I probably prefer the CP's for the better skirt, rings lands and rings themselves but I do like the Wiseco dry film skirt coating. I just don't like the ring lands or rings as well or the skirt for that matter. Biggest problem I have with Wiseco is the thin as hair oil rails. They're fine once you get them in but they can be a little cantankerous to slip into the barrel if you're doing this by yourself even with a top of the line ring compressor and small chamfer cut on the cylinder. One other thing I don't care for about the Wiseco but have never had a problem with them is the "made in Taiwan" wrist pins. I just pulled down a customers 2009 SG with an S&S 106 kit on it with blown head gaskets front and rear and have a new set of CP's on the way to bore the S&S barrels to fit the CP's. The two cam side inner (towards the intake) cylinder studs were the shoulder type and had backed off. Those two head bolts came off by finger without even breaking them loose with a breaker bar first. The Wiseco's that were in it were pretty much used up. The thrust sides had worn most of the dry film off of the skirts. One thing I notice a lot is guys leaving the shop on a cold motor and just ripping out of the parking lot before they let the bike warm up (not letting the forged pistons expand) any at all.

[HD Street Performance]

So bottom line
Check your piston fit

[INDEPENDENT_1]

So bottom line
Check your piston fit

No doubt! And let your bike warm up a little before you just jump on it and bounce it off the rev limiter to give the pistons a chance to expand a little so the fit is good and the piston can't slap/rock around any.