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[Twolanerider]

2 questions:

Received W1 chubby's yesterday - great shipping service HD-Dude!  I think these will be much better than stock though I wish they had a few more degree rotation out as my wrists will still not be perpendicular to the grips.  I'm sure there is no way to bend them out a little before mounting.....?  They sure look pretty....

How do you remove the left grip so that it is easy to reinstall -- I remember when I removed my stock grips from my RK the left one left was pretty tore up since it is glued to the bar....

Thanks,

Mark

Thought the left grips weren't glued down anymore?

[nixobilly]

It is a CVO bike after all..... was hoping it was attached via some CHROME set screws

[hd-dude]

2 questions:

Received W1 chubby's yesterday - great shipping service HD-Dude!  I think these will be much better than stock though I wish they had a few more degree rotation out as my wrists will still not be perpendicular to the grips.  I'm sure there is no way to bend them out a little before mounting.....?  They sure look pretty....

How do you remove the left grip so that it is easy to reinstall -- I remember when I removed my stock grips from my RK the left one left was pretty tore up since it is glued to the bar....

Thanks,

Mark

Mark;
The grips should not be glued on, the newer styles are held in place by the switch housings.

[nixobilly]

Getting ready to start: reading the manuals and making a checklist before I have my scoot scattered all over my garage...

reviewing fairing cap removal - ignition switch knob......

The manual (8-61 in 2007 touring models) says to turn front forks to left fork stop, turn to fork lock position, push in knob release button with small flathead screwdriver (underneath knob) then rotate 60 deg. to remove knob.

The next step says to use pn HD-45962 Ignition Switch Alignment Tool to "rotate clockwise to the selected position".  Am I correct to assume the forks are NOT locked as I didn't push down the switch knob and can recenter my forks without this tool or I will need the tool to unlock the fork so I can recenter?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

[Midnight Rider]

Getting ready to start: reading the manuals and making a checklist before I have my scoot scattered all over my garage...

reviewing fairing cap removal - ignition switch knob......

The manual (8-61 in 2007 touring models) says to turn front forks to left fork stop, turn to fork lock position, push in knob release button with small flathead screwdriver (underneath knob) then rotate 60 deg. to remove knob.

The next step says to use pn HD-45962 Ignition Switch Alignment Tool to "rotate clockwise to the selected position".  Am I correct to assume the forks are NOT locked as I didn't push down the switch knob and can recenter my forks without this tool or I will need the tool to unlock the fork so I can recenter?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Mark...on mine, once I got the switch out, the forks would move back to center....BUT, if you accidently move them back to full left, they will lock.  Then you have to put the switch back in to unlock them again if you don't have the tool they mention.  Just don't turn them all the way to the left and you'll be fine.  When you pull the lower inner, just turn the forks to the right to gain more clearance to wiggle the piece out.  Put a cloth between the front of your tank and the lower inner...

[nixobilly]

Did anybody have any fitment "challenges' with the fairing cap?  Seems the new clamp that holds the bars on pushes the cap out about so the edge is parallel to the fairing part above it -- result is that plastic plate with the ignition positions (Lock, off, etc) is off about .25 inches.  Also the rubber insulation at the ends dont fit.

BTW the bars look and feel great....

Mark

[hd-dude]

Did anybody have any fitment "challenges' with the fairing cap?  Seems the new clamp that holds the bars on pushes the cap out about so the edge is parallel to the fairing part above it -- result is that plastic plate with the ignition positions (Lock, off, etc) is off about .25 inches.  Also the rubber insulation at the ends dont fit.

BTW the bars look and feel great....

Mark

Two things come to mind:
The top clamp may be hitting on the switch brackets inside the fairing cap. The HD single straps are notched for clearance.
The rubbers can be trimmed to allow the some extra clearance.

[Midnight Rider]

Did anybody have any fitment "challenges' with the fairing cap?  Seems the new clamp that holds the bars on pushes the cap out about so the edge is parallel to the fairing part above it -- result is that plastic plate with the ignition positions (Lock, off, etc) is off about .25 inches.  Also the rubber insulation at the ends dont fit.

BTW the bars look and feel great....

Mark

Mark...the rubber things can be trimmed to fit with an exacto knife or Utility knife...I then stuck mine back on to stay with some black silicone.  The plastic switch position indicator...you got a Dremel tool or rat tail file?  Just clearance it to fit back into the indexing slot and everything will look fine when you get it all back together.

[nixobilly]

Completed!     

What a chore -- I'm not a wrench but got this done....

Took me about 16 hours total but would have never got this done without the support and encouragement and SYMPATHY of the great folks on this forum.

I was even able to get that darned chrome cover that guards the brakeline puck in place.   It seems that my last problem was caused by the new handlebar clamp (chrome but hidden) hitting the switches in the faring cap.  I followed the advice here and dremel'd off a little off the switch mounting brackets and the ignition switch position plate and fit it all together.

What ever you charge to do this project HD-Dude, it is well worth the money. During the installation, I had many thoughts of flying HD-Dude, 2Lane, or TC to Houston to help me!

I hope I never met the engineer who designed the radio mounting - I'm sure it was outsourced to some dummy in India who never has seen a MC.
 

Anyway new bars are really comfortable and provided some good space for my Garmin 2610 and Escort 9500I.

At the same time, I installed some new Motolights that mount to my brake calipers since I had the fairing cover off and also cleaned up/tied up the rats nest of wiring.

I know:

 

Pics on the way.

Many thanks again,

Mark

[Twolanerider]

Congrats on getting her buttoned up.  That's a chore of a job for sure.  Don't remember anyone who hasn't felt a lot of improvement going to those bars.  Good job and congrats again on getting it knocked out  .

[Midnight Rider]

Mark....yep, buddy, it's a bitch of a job, no matter how you look at it.  But the end result is well worth the effort involved, and this will be something you will enjoy mile after mile.  We want pics!!!!

Did you go get a longer screw to put the lower cover back on?

[nixobilly]

TC,

Didnt need the longer screw -- for the cover that is!  A little dremelling did the trick.

Mark

[mr_magoo]

Congrads on ther install, it can be intimidating but once it done you wonder why you waited so long.

[Eqcons]

Old brake lines removed...new lines must be installed, two inches longer than stock.  They are available from HD...I ordered from Zanotti's.  It is a totally different configuration....the chrome cover on the triple tree must be removed, and a round chrome "hockey puck" is mounted on the bottom of the tree...new lines fitted...one from master cylinder to puck, then two from there to front calipers. I think it is possible to get the chrome cover back on, but a longer bolt is required that will go through the cover and into the puck, as the whole assembly will only attach by the one center bolt...the two rear bolts for the cover will not line up, so I am undecided about putting that piece back on since it is hardly visable anyway.

Would it be possible just to lengthen the old line, rather than replace?  That is, if it's a standard threaded union into the junction on the triple tree, it should be easy, no?

Jim

[hd-dude]

Would it be possible just to lengthen the old line, rather than replace?  That is, if it's a standard threaded union into the junction on the triple tree, it should be easy, no?

Jim

The brake lines are a one piece unit so the can't be disassembled, that would be much easier if they were threaded lines like the aftermarket parts though