Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[grc]

It's extremely unlikely a start up noise is related to anti-rotation pins at all.  The most likely cause is a lifter that is leaking down excessively.  Identify which one is making all the racket and replace it, then talk to S&S about a refund on the one you removed.  Could be several things, including a piece of trash. 

Jerry

[sadunbar]

It's extremely unlikely a start up noise is related to anti-rotation pins at all.  The most likely cause is a lifter that is leaking down excessively.  Identify which one is making all the racket and replace it, then talk to S&S about a refund on the one you removed.  Could be several things, including a piece of trash. 

Jerry

At less than 2,000 miles, there's more than an average chance there's a piece of contaminant preventing the lifter internal check valve from seating (vs. failed lifter).  True failed lifters generally fail because of deteriorated needle bearings in the roller.  Those failures usually become catastrophic.  It would be worth inspecting the roller and needle bearings of the noisy lifter(s).  If they are sound, then it would be worth taking the noisy lifter(s) apart, cleaning it, reassembling it and putting it back in the motor... Odds are it would quiet down.   

[r0de_runr]

It is quiet on cold start.  Noisy on deceleration when bike is hot.  I'm at 5 turns on s&s adjustable pushrods.  Stethoscope clearly shows noise in front exhaust p/R tube.  Could be p/R hitting tube.

Bought some Melling? 2079, will replace front two and observe results.

[HD Street Performance]

It's extremely unlikely a start up noise is related to anti-rotation pins at all.

In 100% agreement..
I said that as a side note to anyone replacing lifters in these motors.

[hrdtail78]

Can someone explain to me the theory of sinking pushrods closer to the bottom of travel and how that helps with noise?  Most direction I have read say to set mid travel.  S&S with limiters states. Shorten pushrod to allow more travel for quieter operation.  It seems I only see this on forums were most are talking zero lash from top.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Good luck with that Jason.

[sadunbar]

Good luck with that Jason.

Other than Woods, all manufacturers I am aware of instruct the user to set the lifter piston depth to mid range of piston travel.  The only potential advantage to sinking the pushrods closer to the bottom of piston travel is at start up - the deeper the pushrods are set into the lifters the less volume exists to "pump up" on cold start.  Of course, if your lifters are in good condition (and clean internally), there is no "pump up" necessary.  All I can guess is the trend of setting the pushrods deeper is from experimentation and perception rather than mechanical reasoning.

Good question - it should generate lots of expert analysis!   

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

 

[HD Street Performance]

There are two areas where the lifter can be hurt if run there.
All the way bottomed or all the way on the top. Anywhere in between and there wont be any damage or downside unless the lifter is set close to the bottom and bleeds off to hammer the bottom as noted in the last post.
Otherwise run them as you please.
Should be noted that the Gatermans, GP1023, are a lifter with .185 total travel. Setting those at the .140 number that is floated in these forums is nearly bottomed.

[r0de_runr]

Looks like most of my noise was p/email hitting lifter tube.  An hour with the Drexel, hope it fixed it.

I moved lifter from ex to intake, will see if noise moved with it.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

There are two areas where the lifter can be hurt if run there.
All the way bottomed or all the way on the top. Anywhere in between and there wont be any damage or downside unless the lifter is set close to the bottom and bleeds off to hammer the bottom as noted in the last post.
Otherwise run them as you please.
Should be noted that the Gatermans, GP1023, are a lifter with .185 total travel. Setting those at the .140 number that is floated in these forums is nearly bottomed.

Don  You know I agree there is no " perfect depth" Provide enough to make sure when expansion happens you have some pre load you are good to go. If the lifter is working correctly you should not have to pump up the lifter.  Wait until you see a lifter that was run deep and it collapsed  then pumped back up. A lifter is just a basic hyd pump nothing more.  It will not care when it pumps up or where the valve happens to be at the time.   Lifters are great filters as well .

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

 

[hrdtail78]

Don,
We both understand what Vizard said about this years ago.  I will not see 200-300 more rpm and 20 more HP by sinking them.  Guys on this thread have stated numbers of 3/4 in the hole.  We would more likely talk about .050 from bottom lash.

Why are people doing this?  Forum?

Scott,

Please, jump in.  Got many builds under your belt.  You snug em up close, and lock it down like the rest of us?

[sadunbar]

There are two areas where the lifter can be hurt if run there.
All the way bottomed or all the way on the top. Anywhere in between and there wont be any damage or downside unless the lifter is set close to the bottom and bleeds off to hammer the bottom as noted in the last post.
Otherwise run them as you please.
Should be noted that the Gatermans, GP1023, are a lifter with .185 total travel. Setting those at the .140 number that is floated in these forums is nearly bottomed.

If you call, Gaterman will tell you not to run his lifters @ .140 deep due to the location of the oil feed hole in his lifters.  He recommends .100 deep, and cautions against no more than .120 deep for those who insist on sinking their pushrods into the lifters.  He will also tell you that wherever you set your pushrod depth, at temperature, you loose about .015 to .020 of depth due to heat expansion.  So if you set the depth at his recommended .100, you are actually running .085 or so preload at temperature.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Don,
We both understand what Vizard said about this years ago.  I will not see 200-300 more rpm and 20 more HP by sinking them.  Guys on this thread have stated numbers of 3/4 in the hole.  We would more likely talk about .050 from bottom lash.

Why are people doing this?  Forum?

Scott,

Please, jump in.  Got many builds under your belt.  You snug em up close, and lock it down like the rest of us?

Only thing I know is on a spark plug, the threaded end goes in.........and most bolts tighten to the right.........