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[cvo1717]

Not too many threads on 120 R is it any good?

[CannonBall]

Sure, it's good. Many of the guys pull it apart on day one to swap lifters and check geometry. For me, the S&S 124" crate motor offered a better product, backed by a 1yr warranty.

[timtoolman]

I believe they are decent , but as 2 dealers told me when I looked at buying one, they are actually for racing, not for street use  unless some mods are done to ensure street reliability .


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[sadunbar]

I believe they are decent , but as 2 dealers told me when I looked at buying one, they are actually for racing, not for street use  unless some mods are done to ensure street reliability .


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Well, I've put 20K on mine so far...  Only maintenance is I swap lifters often as a preventative measure, and I upgraded my oil cooler to a Jagg 10 row cooler w/fan...  And I put a set of T Man cams in it.   It's otherwise pretty stock.   

[SDCVO]

I have over 12000 miles on mine (bone stock) and it has been absolutely amazing!! no problems (other than the compensator which I don't think has anything to do with the 120r) and crazy fun at all levels of performance. Many people told me I was crazy for doing it and it was not for everyday riding and after a year I couldn't disagree more! For me it was worth every penny and I would do it again in a second.

[Dr.D]

I believe they are decent , but as 2 dealers told me when I looked at buying one, they are actually for racing, not for street use  unless some mods are done to ensure street reliability .


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That statement is a disclaimer to get around the EPA and avoid giving a warranty. The Screaming Eagle book is full of those designations and they are used just keep Harley out of legal issues. I am sure any touring HD is a real race machine after sticking in the 120R?

[BigLew]

I weight the options and bought an S&S 124.

BigLew

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Last one we had in here had .016" on the pinion side.
Crank was attended to, worked the heads, Wood 9F/S&S roller rockers, with a 66 T/Hog/Borezilla.
Then, it went coast to coast.
Scott

[BigLew]

Last one we had in here had .016" on the pinion side.
Crank was attended to, worked the heads, Wood 9F/S&S roller rockers, with a 66 T/Hog/Borezilla.
Then, it went coast to coast.
Scott

Hey Scott, nothing like buying a race engine from the MotoCo so you can tear it apart and fix it before its ever cranked. Only Harley.

BigLew

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

If HD hadn't gone to a pressed togather assembly, vs the tapered/keyed/bolted-togather of prior years(read manufacturing costs) mucho issues would have never surfaced.
The pressed togather crank, was touted as being very robust, and able to "leap tall buildings in a single bound".
Scott

[prodrag1320]

ide go with a S&S 124" over the 120R

[timtoolman]

Or a Hillside 117 or 124 , :  )


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[Steve Cole]

I think it all boils down to what you want. I've got one and I tore it apart, not because I want too. I pulled the covers just to take a look and found things I did not like, so the more I looked the more I took apart. In the end I got the engine when they first came out and it cost me $4200 complete. I took it apart so that was just my labor. The crank check great at 0.0013" on both side so I plugged it and welded it myself, cost was 5 bucks. Then I decided to convert to a timken bearing on the left so I sent the cases over and had them modified for the bearings and I think that ran about $200 for the machine work and conversion kit. To me it was cheap insurance. I machine the barrels to get the two cylinder to have the same squish and we checked the heads over and they were really pretty good as received. So all said and done I'm in mine less than $5000 and at the time all I could get was a kit from S&S and everyone else and had to use my cases so it was cheaper to do what I did and I know just exactly what I've got. I got to keep my complete OE engine and I can sell it or just have it as a spare, for now it's on the shelf.

What they cost today to buy I do not know but look at the complete from each of them and what you get for it as they all have had there issue regardless of what you may want to believe. Jim's , S&S, R&R, HD  all the bigger engines seem to be the luck of the draw, people either love then or hate them.

[sadunbar]

I think it all boils down to what you want. I've got one and I tore it apart, not because I want too. I pulled the covers just to take a look and found things I did not like, so the more I looked the more I took apart. In the end I got the engine when they first came out and it cost me $4200 complete. I took it apart so that was just my labor. The crank check great at 0.0013" on both side so I plugged it and welded it myself, cost was 5 bucks. Then I decided to convert to a timken bearing on the left so I sent the cases over and had them modified for the bearings and I think that ran about $200 for the machine work and conversion kit. To me it was cheap insurance. I machine the barrels to get the two cylinder to have the same squish and we checked the heads over and they were really pretty good as received. So all said and done I'm in mine less than $5000 and at the time all I could get was a kit from S&S and everyone else and had to use my cases so it was cheaper to do what I did and I know just exactly what I've got. I got to keep my complete OE engine and I can sell it or just have it as a spare, for now it's on the shelf.

What they cost today to buy I do not know but look at the complete from each of them and what you get for it as they all have had there issue regardless of what you may want to believe. Jim's , S&S, R&R, HD  all the bigger engines seem to be the luck of the draw, people either love then or hate them.

 

Truer words were never written about motor options... 

[bigskyroadglide]

My 120r was updated at 120miles.  New cams wood 408-6 new lifters S&S, baisley 15 lb spring in pump, hd adj. Push rods, and wood springs for the heads.

 engine runs realwell.  Tuned with an PV..