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[ultrafxr]

It is not a standard PL-259 on the radio either.....

Looks the same but smaller.

[ultrafxr]

Red, thanks for the report.  Antennas look good.  How is AM/FM reception (not that I listen much).

BTW, here are Radio Shack parts you need to hook up SWR meter in tour pak.  I copied this from a thread from early last year.  I got these parts and they work but not every store will have them.  My store did an inventory search and sent me to another store that did have them.  Not popular parts and clerk had difficulty finding them.  May not be in online parts catalog either.

To do this at the Tour Pak:
 
You need:
quanity of 2 - part# 278-968    
quanity of 1 - part# 278-208C    
quanity of 1 - part# 274-710A  
quanity of 1 - SWR Meter

[RedDevil]

Red, thanks for the report.  Antennas look good.  How is AM/FM reception (not that I listen much).

BTW, here are Radio Shack parts you need to hook up SWR meter in tour pak.  I copied this from a thread from early last year.  I got these parts and they work but not every store will have them.  My store did an inventory search and sent me to another store that did have them.  Not popular parts and clerk had difficulty finding them.  May not be in online parts catalog either.

To do this at the Tour Pak:
 
You need:
quanity of 2 - part# 278-968    
quanity of 1 - part# 278-208C    
quanity of 1 - part# 274-710A  
quanity of 1 - SWR Meter

Outstanding Ultra!!!  Thanks for the part numbers...hopefully, I will find them.  We have a couple of RS's around here.  Sorry I forgot to mention FM reception...I did a quick scan of DC Stations that are about 50+ miles away and they sounded almost as good as the local stations.  I would say a little better in reception over the stock whips and a 10-fold increase over the rubber-duckies (Cycle Whips) that I had before.  
Cheers  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif],
Red

[magicl1]

BTW, here are Radio Shack parts you need to hook up SWR meter in tour pak.  I copied this from a thread from early last year.  I got these parts and they work but not every store will have them.  My store did an inventory search and sent me to another store that did have them.  Not popular parts and clerk had difficulty finding them.  May not be in online parts catalog either.

Ultra, the same thing happened to me.  I ended up going to 3 different RS stores for the parts.  Do you have the link to that old thread handy?  I know I printed the instructions for running the tests, but others may find them interesting to review.
As I recall, I moved the bike out onto the driveway and moved the cars out of the way.  I got very different readings if I left the Tour Pack lid up or down.  After trying to dial in the Freedom's, I gave up as I was not able to pull them down below 3.0.  Took readings from the stock whip and it was just a hair below 3.0.
Here is a picture of the RS set up.  I think the cost was under $40.  Red probably as a meter or two laying around so it won't be so much.

Red, hopefully you will get a chance to make up the "HD Custom" [highlight]testing connection[/highlight].  I will be interested in the reading you obtain if you do.

[ultrafxr]

Ultra, the same thing happened to me.  I ended up going to 3 different RS stores for the parts.  Do you have the link to that old thread handy?  I know I printed the instructions for running the tests, but others may find them interesting to review.
As I recall, I moved the bike out onto the driveway and moved the cars out of the way.  I got very different readings if I left the Tour Pack lid up or down.  After trying to dial in the Freedom's, I gave up as I was not able to pull them down below 3.0.  Took readings from the stock whip and it was just a hair below 3.0.
Here is a picture of the RS set up.  I think the cost was under $40.  Red probably as a meter or two laying around so it won't be so much.

Red, hopefully you will get a chance to make up the "HD Custom" [highlight]testing connection[/highlight].  I will be interested in the reading you obtain if you do.

Magic, I do not have the old link.  Just did a search for SWR (I think) yesterday and scrolled down until I found the msg with the part numbers.  Did not save the link but you can probably find it the same way. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[arcticdude]

here's the original thread- it's kind of long, but good info:

http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?num=1131460354/0

[Eqcons]

Thanks for your report, RedDevil ! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
You confirm the first impression.
Now, I'll send my order.

Thanks for your tests and your help.

Regards
Jacques

I'm interested in these too, Jacques, BUT - remember that our radios are on a different set of channels to the domestic bikes!  Best to ask the man at J&M what he thinks, before you start.  As they are adjustable, I'm thinking we should be able to make them work at a decent SWR, but best to check before ordering.

I have an SWR meter somewhere, but of course it has PL259 connectors, and since Radio Shack doesn't exist here, finding the adapters may be difficult...

Jim

[bisounours]

Good evening Jim,

What is different on our bikes ?  [smiley=confused5.gif]
Do You speak about the CB or the radio?
For the CB, we have 40 channels, 4Watts on the 27Mhz band. Is it right ?
Is it not same in the States ?

Please, explain me !

Jacques

[Eqcons]

Good evening Jim,

What is different on our bikes ?  [smiley=confused5.gif]
Do You speak about the CB or the radio?
For the CB, we have 40 channels, 4Watts on the 27Mhz band. Is it right ?
Is it not same in the States ?

Please, explain me !

Jacques

Bonsoir, Jacques! Ça va?

CB - the modulation is FM rather than AM, and the channels are (as far as I know - they certainly used to be, in the UK) on the 27MHz band, yes, but with slightly different frequencies - a tiny bit higher than the US ones. I think, given that there's adjustment, it should be OK, but I've emailed J&M to ask - I'll let you know when they reply!

Jim

[bisounours]

Bonsoir, Jim !

Thanks for these informations.
I'll wait your reply.

Jacques

[magicl1]

A comment cut and pasted from the other thread regarding the "HD Custom" Connection (Radio Shack) requirements
[highlight]"Someone else may have a better way to accomplish this, but here goes.  These are Radio Shack part nos.  You'll need two 278-968 cables.  Cut the end off of one of the cables to install a 274-710 on the cut end, and discard the cutoff coupler, and that's your Motorola female side.  Set it aside.  Take the other cable, and simply screw a 278-208C adapter to one end.  At this point hookup should be self explanatory.  That should do it."[/highlight]

The picture I posted earlier is the end result.

[RedDevil]

Ultra, the same thing happened to me.  I ended up going to 3 different RS stores for the parts.  Do you have the link to that old thread handy?  I know I printed the instructions for running the tests, but others may find them interesting to review.
As I recall, I moved the bike out onto the driveway and moved the cars out of the way.  I got very different readings if I left the Tour Pack lid up or down.  After trying to dial in the Freedom's, I gave up as I was not able to pull them down below 3.0.  Took readings from the stock whip and it was just a hair below 3.0.
Here is a picture of the RS set up.  I think the cost was under $40.  Red probably as a meter or two laying around so it won't be so much.

Red, hopefully you will get a chance to make up the "HD Custom" [highlight]testing connection[/highlight].  I will be interested in the reading you obtain if you do.

I didn't get a chance to get out to Radio Shack yet, but as soon as I can, I'll try and procure the parts...Looks like a very straight forward setup and the cables should be easy to make.  I have a bunch of spare patch cables with standard PL-259's on them that all I need is the two specific connectors...
Cheers,  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Red

[Screamin_Beagle]

One side note here fellas (and our lady members too).  BE Careful of the cables (coax) that runs from the radio to the reciever.  If the cable from the transmitter to the reciever is bent too tight,  cripmed, pinched,  pulled,  freaked up in any way (the standing wave ratio will skyrocket),  you can and will blow the final output amplifier in the transmitter (that's not good......for all you non-tech guys.........lol).  If you put your TP on/off,  make sure you check this carefully.........the cable is cheap (maybe $20....the radio is expensive)....  



_Beagle

[Screamin_Beagle]

All,
    ALL CB radio's manufactured in the world are AMPLITUDE MODULATED transmitters (AM).  FREQUENCY MODULATED amplifiers are far more complex and way more expensive to build....therefore not used for the general public (for multi-user tranmission....cost for the transmitter not to mention the corresponding antenna is WAY cost prohibititive).  In either case,  the transmitter HAS to be impedance matched to the antenna (just be glad you don't have to try to hide a wave guide between your tank and frame, especially when your ball bag is right next to it).  As I said earlier.......after impedance matching,  be careful of crimps....bends...pinches....etc.  If you suspect a problem,  get out that $19 SWR meter and correct the issue.  Most antenna's should be tuneable to correct.




_Beagle

[Eqcons]

All,
    ALL CB radio's manufactured in the world are AMPLITUDE MODULATED transmitters (AM). _Beagle

Sorry, Beagle - this is one area where I DO know what I'm talking about, and I can assure you that over this side of the Atlantic (still in the world!) our CBs are - and have always been, if they were legal - FM.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CB_radio_in_the_United_Kingdom

"...the preferred option for legalisation was the U.S. 27MHz AM system....The final legalised service was a compromise - a band at 27MHz was allocated but using FM and offset channel frequencies 27.60125 - 27.99125 MHz which were incompatible with the U.S. system.  The channels legalised on 2 November 1981 were on two blocks of frequencies: 40 channels on the 27 MHz band and 20 channels on the 934 MHz band, both of which used FM (frequency modulation) ..... In the 1990s 40 additional frequencies were added, which were ironically the same as the U.S. allocation - but again using FM."

While that covers just the UK, quite a number of other countries use FM for CB as well;  the current one in use here is Europe-wide, I believe - still FM!

Jim