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[KEB]

Hi All

I've got an SE 2008 110 that has to have a new crank, so I am looking to "improve" what the MoCo offers. Don't want to go radical and being in Ozzie don't have access to all the aftermarket heads etc. Looking for a reliable motor that has good torque on the range the heavy bagger needs it with reasonable performance.

I will get a HD crank and have it welded as this is locally available, can get the heads polished and decked locally and bigger valves fitted. So the question is how much compression, what is a good andrews or s&s cam (locally available), what size valves?

Suggestions anyone?

KB

[FlaHeatWave]

Hi All

I've got an SE 2008 110 that has to have a new crank, so I am looking to "improve" what the MoCo offers. Don't want to go radical and being in Ozzie don't have access to all the aftermarket heads etc. Looking for a reliable motor that has good torque on the range the heavy bagger needs it with reasonable performance.

I will get a HD crank and have it welded as this is locally available, can get the heads polished and decked locally and bigger valves fitted. So the question is how much compression, what is a good andrews or s&s cam (locally available), what size valves?

Suggestions anyone?

KB

You can get S&S Cams but not an S&S Crank?

[HD Street Performance]

Good Point
Welding is one step, what about truing and then installing a tapered pin? If you need a new crank anyway the new S&S is a decent option.
Just recondition the heads and use HD seals. Based on what you are saying you want, high torque and a long living motor, I would also change valve springs to beehives and lifters to an S&S. The rest stock.

[KEB]

It seems that keeping cranks in stock here is slim pickings. They have to come ex US which I could get myself just as easily and quicker then waiting for the "next shipment" which never seems to arrive! The guy here in Bris will true, balance and weld the stock cranks. Apparently the dealer here in Bris arranges it, so that's the quickest option.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

I will add that if great care is not taken when welding the pin, to the wheel halves, the heat can draw things to the point that it could very well be WORSE than prior.
We have dedicated tooling that allows us to install precision pins and then just spot-weld(read almost no heat)over the recessed pin.
They won't/don't move at that point.
Scott

[prodrag1320]

just welding the crank isn't going to do much as far as stopping it from moving (it may not move .020 or anything,but welding wont stop it from moving .002 or .003).we machine the wheels and press in .125 pins (they act as keys) then weld over them.something we`ve been doing on the drag lower ends to keep them straight WAY before TC`s were even on the drawing board

[KEB]

just welding the crank isn't going to do much as far as stopping it from moving (it may not move .020 or anything,but welding wont stop it from moving .002 or .003).we machine the wheels and press in .125 pins (they act as keys) then weld over them.something we`ve been doing on the drag lower ends to keep them straight WAY before TC`s were even on the drawing board

Hmm one wold think that if a crank moved even that much on a welded crank it would break the weld. A key for a drag bike makes sense not sure if an ordinary tourer would need that much certainty?

[INDEPENDENT_1]

I think the "I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it" rule applies here. Kirbys madness isn't without method. As he stated, he didn't start doing this last week. The crank is the foundation so to speak. I wouldn't build a mansion on a sand bar and if I was going to have the option to rebuild the crank, I don't think I'd pull any punches. I spoke with Feuling today and they are still in testing for the release of their new 1 piece crank with automotive style rod caps/bearings but if it's not priced comparably to an S&S crank, I don't know that they'll sell a whole lot of them. I run the S&S 4-5/8" wheels in my Glide and I had them welded even though S&S advised against it but that probably isn't necessary for anyone not wanting to launch at 4 grand with a sticky tire and 12 lbs of air in it or not wanting to run NOS or forced induction of some sort but I did it because I didn't want to have to go back in anytime soon.

[KEB]

I think the "I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it" rule applies here. Kirbys madness isn't without method. As he stated, he didn't start doing this last week. The crank is the foundation so to speak. I wouldn't build a mansion on a sand bar and if I was going to have the option to rebuild the crank, I don't think I'd pull any punches. I spoke with Feuling today and they are still in testing for the release of their new 1 piece crank with automotive style rod caps/bearings but if it's not priced comparably to an S&S crank, I don't know that they'll sell a whole lot of them. I run the S&S 4-5/8" wheels in my Glide and I had them welded even though S&S advised against it but that probably isn't necessary for anyone not wanting to launch at 4 grand with a sticky tire and 12 lbs of air in it or not wanting to run NOS or forced induction of some sort but I did it because I didn't want to have to go back in anytime soon.

Yes wise advice, I don't want to go back to the crankcase again. The local machinist is well known for fixing the cranks so they are bullet proof so I'll go on the reputation. Will get him to fit timken tapered bearings as well.

No just need to decide how much compression and a cam. I'm thinking to bump it up to around 10:1 and an S&S 570 maybe. Will get quality 1 piece valves and polish the chambers and ports. From what I can see the HD springs should be ok for a mild cam just do guides and seals and a re-seat and the heads should be ok. The head gasket is 0.065 so just a thinner gasket to get the compression up a tad...

[Ridgerunr]

You'll like the .570 cams, get the easy start version. S&S Premium lifters too, and while the heads are off why not change the springs to beehives?