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[FLSTFI Dave]

This works for either running it in the solo position or the 2-up position.  The Harley kit is not a good choice for the CVO bikes as it contains many parts not needed, and in my opinion the way  it locates the plate is just plain ugly.  This conversion is pretty straight forward and with basic hand tool skill most any one should be able to do it.  You only need one of the two racks depending on where you want the TP.  The optional parts are if you want to convert the rear turn signals to run-brake-turn.

HD Parts list:
4-Point Docking Hardware   52300353  159.95
Solo TP rack mount      53000225   209.95
2-up rack mount      53000221   199.95
Individual pin connectors    73191-96
3-Pin Receptacle Housing: 73153-96BK
Curved license plate frame   67900008   89.95



Other parts
Kuryakyn curved led license   3144  55.90  on ebay



Optional parts
Custom Dynamics Break Turn module    GEN SMARTTPUBCM  89.95
   http://www.customdynamics.com/tailconversion_kit.htm   
Custom Dynamics Red LED signal bulbs  1156 (single element and pin)  bullet style
Front Custom Dynamic Ringz 

[FLSTFI Dave]

First remove the seat.  To do this remove the Philips screw at the back, then slide the seat back a little to free the nose.  While lifting the seat a way be sure to un plug the heating element, there is a release on the plug. 

Now unplug all the wires going to the tour pack.  Each plug has a tap that has to be pressed or lifted to separate the two parts of the plug.  You may have a couple cable ties to cut.  Also a couple of the plugs have to slide out of clips holding them in place. 

With all the wires to the tour pack dis-connected, the tour pack can be removed.  Find an area where you plan to set the tour pack and put a blanket there to protect it.  Remove both tour pack antenna.  Then it’s best to remove the saddle bags to make easier access to the four torques that hold it in place.   Loosen the four torques and remove them.  The tour pack will not fall and will sit without the torques in place.  Now to lift the tour pack out, lift up at the back and carefully slide back and up.  I had a towel on the fender in case.  Set the tour pack on the blanket upside down.




With the tour pack removed the 4-Point Docking hardware can be installed.  I used the four torques that held the tour pack in place rather than the four that came in the kit.  Position the two brackets in place and tighten the torques.  The instruction for mounting the hardware on the brackets are wrong for the two closest to the front, for the back two it is correct.  For the front the washer does not go in first, but the spacer does.  Also the rubber mount the side that has the fatter metal goes out, not in like the instruction say.  Put these on loosely.  You may have to adjust to smoothly fit your rack.





Then set the solo rack on and test fitment.  You may have to adjust washer position.  Also the instructions show how to rotate the rubber through a 090 degree range to adjust tightness.  Get this all set with the rack before you mount the tour pack.  Once satisfied tighten the four rubber mounts.




With the tour pack upside down on a blanket or such, remove the four nuts holding the factory mount on the tour pack.  Once removed, lift the mount away and set aside.  Place the new quick detach rack in place, make sure you position it so the forward side of the quick detach is forward on tour pack.  Once set in place side it forward or rearward to your desired location and tighten the nuts.

[FLSTFI Dave]

Modify the wiring harness to work with TP both on and off.  This is easy to do, just takes patients and care.  The black cloth covering can be carefully pulled apart starting at the plug end.  There is an adhesive holding it together.  Work it apart going all the way back to just above the battery.




Now with the cloth cover opened up, cut all the tape holding the wires together.  Be careful not to cut a wire.  Now pull the two wires and plug out that go to the left saddle bag, and the two wires and plug out that go to the right saddle bag.



 Re-tape the main harness in the same places it was taped before.  Tape the area the wires were pulled out of the main harness.  I then with help taped the pair of wires to the right back starting at the harness going to the plug.  I taped them the tightly the entire length. 





Then did the same for the right bag.  Last I re wrapped the main harness with the cloth covering leaving the two bag wires out.  This is so when running with just the solo seat, the rest of the harness can be under the seat.  As you can see below that the two bag plugs are nice and neat, and separate from the main harness now, and the main harness looks stock.

[FLSTFI Dave]

For the new licence plate mounting fist I use painters tape and mask the fender all around the light and light bar so I do not scratch anything.  Then take the tail light off.  This has to be done to get at the plugs behind it.  The tail light just un plugs from the bike.  Now you can take off the turn signal bar.  This is two bolts that you can get from behind the fender, with the tire in place.  10mm socket if I remember correctly.  Once it is loos and off it will be hanging by two pair of wires.  Just un plug both pair from the tail light housing and then remove them from the clips under the fender and pull them out.



Now the Curved license plate frame #67900008 needs to have a little grinding done so it will fit into the turn signal bracket.  Its just a little around the edges until it fits.  I did it with a dremel tool and grinding wheels for it.  A bench grinder would be faster.  It took me about 5 to 10 minutes. Its the top edges and side edges around the bolt holes where it will bolt to the turn signal bar.



Once it fits flat, just bolt it in place.



Now the Kuryakyn curved led license frame is bolted onto the Harley frame.  Cut the wires to the frame right at the plug.  Pull the wires up thru the frame to the back of the turn signal bar.



You will have to add about 12 inches of wire.  The best way is to solder the new wires on, and then heat shrink over them or good electrical tape.
Now it’s time to put the turn signal bar back in place. 



Pull the wires back thru the fender and into the tail light.  Looking at the rear of the bike I pulled the new wires in on the left side, as they will plug in on the left side of the tail light.  Once the wires are pulled in, just bolt the turn signal bar into place.  Plug both turn signals back in where you un plugged them from.  The new wires will go in the three pin slot above where the tail light will plug back in.  If I remember correctly the left side is negative and the right side is positive.  Test with meter with ignition on.  You can by pin connectors from HD 73191-96 will fit these perfectly.  I will replace the home made spade connectors I used with the HD 73191-96 individual connectors.  I will also get the3-Pin Receptacle Housing: 73153-96BK  What I did was took a spade connector, and cut one side off and smashed it with pliers until it was a tight fit on the pin, then did it for the other one.  Now just screw the tail light back into place.  I put a metal HD decal over the white lite on the tail light that shined on the old plate location.

In picture below you can see the pair of purple and black wires for the left turn signal on the left side, and the similar pair on the right side for the right turn signal.  You can see the green ground I added and the yellow hot for the plate frame to the empty 3 pin plug, middle not used.  right below that is where the tail light plugs in.



Close up

[FLSTFI Dave]

Optional…I turned my outside turn signals into both run lights, brake lights and turn.  I think this provides much more and brighter light.  I used custom dynamic red LED bulb and the GEN SMARTTPUBCM  module.  Its the red module in the below picture.  You just unplug the wiring barnes for the rear lights on the fender, and plug the module in between them.



This module is what does the conversion from just turn to run, turn and brake.  It also lets you balance brightness with the tail light.  It also gives you 9 different choices if you want some sort of flash on the brake lights.  Directions for this are very good. 



Also had to block the the white light from tail light as plate is no longer above it.  Just a simple HD metal decal.

[FLSTFI Dave]

Here are some pictures finished.

No Tour pack





With Tour pack.   Floor boards were also removed.  No bag guards either for a cleaner look.







Out side

[GregKhougaz]

Great post, Dave!       I'm sure this will be helpful to lots of guys.   

[FLSTFI Dave]

Replaced the reflector saddle bag latches.  They look much better if you ask me, from HD parts catalog.



Took my mid frame heat shields off, had them painted gloss black.  Then put a plug in the left one for my heated gear.  Keeps it neat.



Then a new timer cover to match the Derby cover I put on when I got the bike.



Derby 

[cvosjoe]

Well done David. 

[DesertHOG]

Nice job Dave. I like what you did to split out the saddlebag wires for the electric locks. I'll have to consider doing that on mine. However, if I get lazy I'll just run without electric locks and use the key if I really need to lock them up. I concur on the passenger floor boards. If you are riding solo best to get rid of them. I seem to hit them with my legs, especially the right one when mounting. As for the saddlebag crash bars, I am going to keep mine on and get some saddlebag water bottle holders. Since the fairing lowers don't have a glove compartment anymore I lost my bottle carrier. During the summers I usually get two 1-liter bottles at gas stops and will have them drunk by the next gas stop. I like the heated gear connector in the heat shield as well. My only problem is that I use the battery tender converter for my heated gear. I guess I'll still have wires exposed. Also, thanks for providing the connector pin part number. I am thinking they must make a 3-pin connector because that 3-wire socket is intended for a fender trim light option.

I was able to recycle a 2009 HD plate holder from my take-off parts shelf. The Kuryakyn plate frame I both has 2 different lights. A red led running/brake light and a combo red led running light and white led light to light the plate. Frankly the white light is not illuminating the plate very well but it meets the intent of the law. I had to hack on the Kuryakyn frame a bit to fit with the turn light assembly. You really don't see if unless you walk up to it and give it a thorough inspection.

On the TP, did you move it all the way forward on the solo detach mount or is there still room for forward movement? I am just wondering if the solo could be configured to eliminate the seat backrest and strictly use the TP backrest. I saw a post where someone did that on a slightly different setup that didn't have the armrests and speakers.

Simon

PS: That large connector in the back that has the white clip plugged into the TP mount was a beyotch to get disconnected and removed from the mount.

[FLSTFI Dave]

Simon,

My tour pack is slid all the way forward.  for me it does not come quite far enough forward for a good back rest for my lower back.    I am rather thin.  Some have said all the way forward it works good as a back rest for them.  Also if my seat was about 3/4 inch farther back it would work great.  However it does provide a nice place to rest my arm.  I like it for the much better weight distribution.

Splitting the bag lock plug wires makes it nice and clean for running the solo seat.  Quick detach is nice for when I do not need a tour pac, which is most the time.  My set up would work fine also for running the tour pack in the normal position, just use the other 2 up mount on the tour pac.

As for floor boards originally I swapped sides with them, it provides a few inches more leg room for the rider.  Then when I decided to go solo I just removed them.  I was going to add foot pegs instead of boards but, solo no need.

[michaelokielee@yahoo.com]

 Nice job, thanks for the detailed instructions!

[porthole]

Great writeup Dave.

So, I take it amps are no longer an issue?

I switch between solo and two up quick detach mounts on my 05 tourpaks.
Any issue between going back and forth with the newest setup (detach brackets)?
Just the four bolts?

Radio ok with just the fronts?

I originally had my tourpak solo mount forward (as you for a back rest). I moved it back and now put my rain gear in a stuff bag and stick it down at the bottom for the lower back.

Simon, all the connectors used on the bikes are available as pieces and parts at the dealer. From single wire up to a 12 wire piece.

[OBB]

Great write up Dave. Only thing that would bother me is the emblem getting partially covered by the plate frame. I'd have to get rid of the emblem altogether for a cleaner look.




Simon, You are correct about that 3 pin spot in the tail light. It is where the tribar light on the RGC fascia plugs into. I add that piece on my current bike and will be doing it on the new one also. The dealer does have the little plastic plug to add the pins into for a cleaner install.

[DesertHOG]

Great write up Dave. Only thing that would bother me is the emblem getting partially covered by the plate frame. I'd have to get rid of the emblem altogether for a cleaner look.

Simon, You are correct about that 3 pin spot in the tail light. It is where the tribar light on the RGC fascia plugs into. I add that piece on my current bike and will be doing it on the new one also. The dealer does have the little plastic plug to add the pins into for a cleaner install.

That's worth one "official nit"   
Not many alternatives and the overall impact of the change is awesome!

DH