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Author Topic: Plastic Air Baffles  (Read 7134 times)

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RedDevil

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2011, 05:21:32 PM »

Terry, I will be anxious to know how much that helps (if any).  Last summer (on my '07 cuse) I had Fullsac de-cat my oem exhaust and install their 1.75" baffle.  Did so because my bride complained about the loudness of the D&Ds (even with 'quiet' baffle) and I though this mod would 1) cool the stock system and 2) the new baffles would help performance but still be quieter than the D&Ds.  Worked great, ran fine and sounded OK.  But she complained mightly about the HEAT which was now on both sides with the crossover pipe.  So back to the D&Ds.  Just saying - my experience is that de-catted and opened up did not really do much for the heat.
 :jack:                  Sorry.  Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

Jerry,
I de-cat'd the stock headers on my SEURG  and have Klock Werks Revolver mufflers on them.  Not only is the sound great for the wife and I when riding, but the heat was noticeably less with the CAT removed.  My dealer took the CAT out for $90, re-tuned it (gained 6HP and 6 TQ) and it runs great.  I haven't had it out on a hot day yet, but so far I've had it up to 75 degrees, but in stop and go traffic and it wasn't any worse than any other bike I had previously under those conditions.  I don't get the "hot right calf" like I did with the CAT in there.

:devil:
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ultrafxr

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2011, 06:10:50 PM »

Jerry,
I de-cat'd the stock headers on my SEURG  and have Klock Werks Revolver mufflers on them.  Not only is the sound great for the wife and I when riding, but the heat was noticeably less with the CAT removed.  My dealer took the CAT out for $90, re-tuned it (gained 6HP and 6 TQ) and it runs great.  I haven't had it out on a hot day yet, but so far I've had it up to 75 degrees, but in stop and go traffic and it wasn't any worse than any other bike I had previously under those conditions.  I don't get the "hot right calf" like I did with the CAT in there.

:devil:
Did you remove the stock headers for them?  $90 sure sounds cheap if they had to R&R the exhaust system and de-cat the headers.  My dealer charges $94/hr and I'll bet it would be at least an hour or more just to de-cat.
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RedDevil

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #17 on: April 06, 2011, 06:34:15 PM »

Did you remove the stock headers for them?  $90 sure sounds cheap if they had to R&R the exhaust system and de-cat the headers.  My dealer charges $94/hr and I'll bet it would be at least an hour or more just to de-cat.

That was total cost to remove, de-cat and re-install the headers.  They charged me another $95 for the dyne time.  My dealer treats me great.  But then I've bought 3 CVOs from them in the last 4 years. 

:devil:
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Cvostu

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #18 on: April 07, 2011, 07:32:34 AM »

That's a good reason to get good service and some good labor rates.   :2vrolijk_21:
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Cvostu

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #19 on: April 11, 2011, 06:12:52 AM »

I was looking at those plastic baffles... the dealer left them in the saddle bag and i was tring to figure out how they go on,,,,,   I gave up,   what's the secret here??     :-\
« Last Edit: April 11, 2011, 06:30:52 AM by cvostu »
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Diamondback

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #20 on: April 11, 2011, 09:43:25 AM »

 8) 8)

The end slides into the cross member of the front steering assembly and the small clamp fits toward the center of the bike and snaps in,

There is a righ and left.

 :coolblue:
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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #21 on: April 11, 2011, 12:48:28 PM »

I was looking at those plastic baffles... the dealer left them in the saddle bag and i was tring to figure out how they go on,,,,,   I gave up,   what's the secret here??     :-\

The bottom part of the thing snaps on to the top of the engine guard, between the lowers and the frame, and the top part snaps over the bolts that hold the tank on the front of the frame.  I couldn't figure it out either until I saw a picture of them installed....there is a right and a left because of how it mounts to the tank bolts.
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ultrafxr

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #22 on: April 11, 2011, 02:45:48 PM »

The bottom part of the thing snaps on to the top of the engine guard, between the lowers and the frame, and the top part snaps over the bolts that hold the tank on the front of the frame.  I couldn't figure it out either until I saw a picture of them installed....there is a right and a left because of how it mounts to the tank bolts.
If you look carefully at the part you will see the designation of either RH or LH molded into the part.
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Cvostu

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #23 on: April 11, 2011, 06:03:11 PM »

Hmm. See? Ask a question, you get an answer.   Thanks.   Hope they make some kind of a difference.  :confused5:
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Midnight Rider

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #24 on: July 21, 2011, 11:36:21 AM »

Don't drink the octane booster kool aid...the only thing it will boost is getting money out of your wallet faster.
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Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.
I had the right to remain silent, just not the ability...

Gone, but not forgotten...2011 FLTRUSE with
Fullsac X Pipe w/2" Baffles
Legend Air Ride Rear Shocks
Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 Front Suspension
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Para Bellum

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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #25 on: July 21, 2011, 03:35:53 PM »

 One of them was to use octaine boost to supplement the Ethanol fuels we have at the pumps with the 110 motor, another was remove the plastic air baffles attached to the engine guard.  

Nu Glider,

x2 for TCnBham's advice.  There is a lot of bad info available out there about this topic, but TC is right on.  Even some mechanics are off-base on this aspect of octane.  Octane boost is useful IF you can't get fuel with the recommended octane, but it won't do a thing for the heat coming off your engine (see my post below for that).  Here's some info straight from the Texas state energy conservation office about ethanol and octane:  http://www.seco.cpa.state.tx.us/re_ethanol.htm

Octane RatingThe most important characteristic of gasoline is its octane rating; in general, the higher a fuel's octane rating the better the engine will perform. Pure ethanol made from renewable plant sources has less energy content than gasoline, which means more trips to the pump, but it has an octane rating of 113, compared with 107 for methanol and about 86 to 94 for gasoline.

« Last Edit: July 21, 2011, 03:56:55 PM by DoubleCoppers »
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Re: Plastic Air Baffles
« Reply #26 on: July 21, 2011, 03:54:22 PM »

  I have been having an issue with engine heat during these long hot summer days in North TX. 

  A large part of the heat problem is that MoCo tunes the engine with a very lean AFR (Air-Fuel Ratio) to reduce emissions and improve MPG to satisfy the EPA and state air pollution agencies.  The cure for this is a fuel management device (such as RevPerf's EMS, TTS Mastertune, Power Commander, etc.) to enrich (i.e., a lower number, like 13.5 to 1) the AFR.  Another contributor to the heat problem is the catalytic converter ("cat" or  CC) in the exhaust system.  Cats have to get hot to work, so they're built to restrict exhaust flow.  The cats get way hot, and on a motorcycle it's right under us.  That's why there is so much talk here and elsewhere about getting rid of the cat, whether by replacing the head pipe, cutting out the cat from the stock pipes, or, in bikes with cats in the mufflers, fixing it there.  Here's a link with lots of info about removing cats: http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=27814.0 
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