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[SE66]

Installed the oil temp gauge on my FLHTCUSE4.  Removed the air temp gauge and replaced it with the oil temp gauge.  After engine heats up temp runs up to about 210.  I was curious about what should be the proper oil temp.  Running V&H PowerDuals,  CVO cans with 2" Fullsac Baffles,  Bike has been DYNO'ed and has a SESRT.

JImmy

[JCZ]

It varies, depending on a number of variables.....ambient temp, riding style, speed, wind, etc.

[darth davidson]

What's the oil temp gauge part #? I have wanted to change that stoopid air temp for a long time !!!

[Vyscera]

A simple solution for this is the LCD oil temp dipstick. I had one on my FXDFSE3, and am getting one for my FLHXSE3, since I have little speakers instead of useless guages. Its HD pat # 62700005 for chrome and 63004-09
 for black.

[prstaples1911]

I don't know proper, but I am running between 200 and 250 on my convertible depending upon ambient temp and speed.  I have VLIEDs turned to lower AFR to about 14.0.  I am not looking forward to being stuck in traffic in July in St. Louis!  While an oil cooler may help, that assumes I am moving to push air over it.

[grc]

The official normal operating oil temperature for a Twin Cam engine is 230°F per H-D.  Of course, since these are air cooled engines, the actual temperatures will vary fairly widely depending on operating conditions.  If the outside air temps are significantly higher or lower than 70°F, then your oil temp will also vary accordingly.  If you are just cruising easily down the highway, the oil temp will be lower than if you just hammered it for 30 miles.  In other words, there is no one single "normal" oil temperature.

The way to use an oil temp gauge is to first get a feel for what your particular gauge reads under the various conditions you usually ride in.  Let's say in your case it usually reads somewhere between 210°F and 250°F.  As long as it remains in that range, you have nothing to worry about.  If you suddenly see a significantly different reading, then you need to look for possible causes.

As for the dipstick gauge, they don't have a sterling record for accuracy or durability.  They are also not a real time solution, unless you plan to lean down and push the button as often as you would normally sweep your other gauges with your eyes.  If you have the ability to mount a real direct reading gauge, it is the much better solution.


Jerry

[miker]

I dont care what it is...tire pressure is more important...being a dipstick myself I had the dipstick, it broke. I am way too lazy to put in oil temp gauge, oil pressure is more important and I am impressed these new fangled HD's actually have oil pressure! 

[99fatboy]

Anything over 250 and Dino oil starts to break down. 210 is ok. Anyone that's sees greater then 250 for longer periods then not should change to a full synthetic oil, or install an oil cooler.

[Proctor]

Installed the oil temp gauge on my FLHTCUSE4.  Removed the air temp gauge and replaced it with the oil temp gauge.  After engine heats up temp runs up to about 210.  I was curious about what should be the proper oil temp.  Running V&H PowerDuals,  CVO cans with 2" Fullsac Baffles,  Bike has been DYNO'ed and has a SESRT.

JImmy

I was told that I can't use the dash oil temp guage on mine, 2010 FLHXSE, since I have an oil cooler.  I had to go with the dip stick version.  Do you have an oil cooler on yours?  If so, where does the sending unit hook up to?

[grc]

I was told that I can't use the dash oil temp guage on mine, 2010 FLHXSE, since I have an oil cooler.  I had to go with the dip stick version.  Do you have an oil cooler on yours?  If so, where does the sending unit hook up to?

The oil cooler has nothing to do with being able to install the dash mounted gauge.  The sending unit is installed in the oil pan, utilizing an existing hole that is normally plugged.  There are plenty of folks with CVO Touring models (that all came with oil coolers) running the in dash temperature gauges.  There was a time when Harley's instructions had the sending unit in one of the oil cooler lines on bikes so equipped, and that did not work worth two dead flies.  What you want to measure is the oil temperature immediately after the oil returns from the engine, not before it goes to the engine.


Jerry

[Proctor]

For some reason the spun aluminum face,75320-05A, that matches my stock gauges, say that it won't fit 09 or later FLHXSE/2 which is my bike.  I don't understand why.  All the dealer can tell me is that it has something to do with the cooler.  That's why I asked. 

[MKW]

For some reason the spun aluminum face,75320-05A, that matches my stock gauges, say that it won't fit 09 or later FLHXSE/2 which is my bike.  I don't understand why.  All the dealer can tell me is that it has something to do with the cooler.  That's why I asked. 

I believe you will notice a difference when you ride at night.  The back lighting is different.

[Proctor]

I believe you will notice a difference when you ride at night.  The back lighting is different.

So you put one on yours and the only diff was it wasn't red back lighting?

[JCZ]

I was told that I can't use the dash oil temp guage on mine, 2010 FLHXSE, since I have an oil cooler.  I had to go with the dip stick version.  Do you have an oil cooler on yours?  If so, where does the sending unit hook up to?

I have it on my 10 SESG.  That's the one that measures oil temp in the motor.  The dip stick oil temp measures the temp in the oil bag.

Using Dakota Digital gauges, also have the head temp, too.

**Edit...
 
Next post down, Jerry covered it above.  Yes, the backlighting is different but if you can live with that, you're good to go.   Personally, knowing what was/is going on with my motor was/is more important than a back light that I'm the only one that sees it (unless I just fired the bike up and I'm still sitting still with somebody beside me).

[grc]

So you put one on yours and the only diff was it wasn't red back lighting?

The problem isn't the backlighting color, it's just done in a different way.  The older bikes had a very simple and fairly lousy backlighting system that just provided a very soft glow around the edge of the gauge face.  Not enough to actually read numbers on a gauge, and barely enough to see the needle under some conditions.  The late model bikes have a different backlighting system that makes the gauges more readable.  What you can do with the old style (including that oil temp gauge) is to upgrade the bulb to a higher output LED.  It still won't be exactly the same as the rest of your gauges, but at least it will be brighter and more readable.  And of course it only becomes obvious at night, so if you mostly ride in daylight it's not a big deal anyway.  As for the color, even if the rest of your gauges did have a different color, like blue for instance, that wouldn't keep you from buying that color bulb and putting it in the old style gauge. 

The dealer employee who told you it has something to do with the oil cooler is just one more in a long line of idiots working all across this land in Harley dealerships.  They have never met a question they weren't happy to make up a quick answer for, rather than actually find out the real answer.  It's one of the main reasons so many people come on this site and ask questions; most of us probably know at least twice as much about these bikes as the average person at the dealerships.  It's a sad state of affairs, and it doesn't seem to be getting any better.  As a matter of fact, as the bikes get more complicated the problem just gets worse.


Jerry

[Fireguy]

If you want a straight up answer, you can count on Jerry. 

[Proctor]

Thanks for the info guys!  I wonder what the range difference in readings are between the dash gauge and the dip stick would be.  I would assume the dash gauge would be higher since it's reading right out of the engine.

[miker]

Jerry, do you care about oil temperature.....sorry got Uncle Nubby syndrome going today..and 2 cahbombs down mee gullet...
I know the oi temp out of my vld is wikit hot.   

[DESERTBEAR54]

Actually the best oil temp is one that I don't see anymore. I was always worried about my oil temp and I have learned they get Hot here in Arizona and that is just the way it is.

[grc]

Jerry, do you care about oil temperature.....sorry got Uncle Nubby syndrome going today..and 2 cahbombs down mee gullet...
I know the oi temp out of my vld is wikit hot.   

Nobody asked if it was important Miker, so I didn't go into the fact that it's not something I'd actually mess with myself.  I think I have asked the question in previous threads about what folks would do if they were riding and the oil temperature gauge read 280 instead of the usual 230, pull off the road in the middle of nowhere and shut it down? 

My real opinion is that all the dipsticks and gauges are pretty much useless doodads.  How many folks have spent most of their riding life on bikes that had zero gauges other than a speedo and maybe a tach?  Did they have any more problems than those with umpteen gauges of dubious quality and accuracy?  I seriously doubt it.  There isn't a single gauge on a Touring Harley that is really essential, other than the speedometer and maybe the fuel gauge if you get one that's halfway accurate (chuckle).  The voltmeter is pretty much useless, and if the charging system takes a dump there is an idiot light to let you know.  You also get an idiot light for oil pressure.  So that only leaves the highly prized air temperature gauge that doesn't have an alternate system on board.  I guess my "lick the finger and stick it up into the air stream" method will have to suffice for that one.

IMHO, no oil temperature gauge is needed.  But if you want one, I suggest getting a real gauge that reads continuously, not some mickey mouse dipstick that requires you to lean over and push a button when you want a reading.  Considering the lack of quality and reliability of those dipsticks, it makes more sense to just send me a couple hundred bucks instead, or invest the money in Powerball.


Jerry  

[prstaples1911]

As for the dipstick gauge, they don't have a sterling record for accuracy or durability.  They are also not a real time solution, unless you plan to lean down and push the button as often as you would normally sweep your other gauges with your eyes.  If you have the ability to mount a real direct reading gauge, it is the much better solution.


Jerry

I use the analog version for this very reason.  While I would prefer the digital with oil level indicator as well, I have heard very mixed reviews and not interested in blowing $140 bucks on an experiment.

[Midnight Rider]

I have the LCD dipstick...I've not had any problems with them, on two different bikes.  I don't really care what the oil temp is, I just use it for a reference point and check it occasionally when I stop to put gas in the bike, or get back home from a ride.  The quality of the sensor?  Having worked with sensors of various types (temp sensors) for years, I certainly don't think that either the LCD dipstick or the gauge in the dash are necessarily dead on accurate, but don't gnash my teeth over whether either of them are off by + or -  5-10 degress.  And by random chance, they could be dead on, but odds are that over time the readings will drift, and it can't be calibrated to my knowledge.  But either of them are useful for a reference point...just don't obsess over it.  I just use a high quality synthetic oil and call it good to go.  My bike generally is around 230 when it's 85-90 outside, but I've seen it as high as 250's after being in heavy traffic, or doing a particularly "spirited" run.  When it's 98 degrees down here and 90% relative humidity, the bike is going to be hot as a firecracker...even a water cooled bike in those conditions is not comfortable sitting in traffic.

[SIX38]

The main function of the dash mounted oil temp gauge for me, is to determine when to turn on and off the Lenale engine and oil cooler fans. I typically only find need for their use when in heavy stop and go traffic. I usually turn them on as the temp exceeds 250 degrees. They will keep the temps in the 230 to 250 range.

Tom P.   

[grc]

The main function of the dash mounted oil temp gauge for me, is to determine when to turn on and off the Lenale engine and oil cooler fans. I typically only find need for their use when in heavy stop and go traffic. I usually turn them on as the temp exceeds 250 degrees. They will keep the temps in the 230 to 250 range.

Tom P.   

That will work, but of course you could also wire in a simple thermostat to do the same thing automatically.  I thought they offered that with the Lenale fans?


Jerry

[timo482]

i have the hd fan - and it is on a thermostat - and what i find is that it pretty d*&^ hot before it comes on, but once it has come on it cools the bike right down, then it will cycle on and off to keep the temp down, i just wish it would come on the first time more proactively

to

[SIX38]

That will work, but of course you could also wire in a simple thermostat to do the same thing automatically.  I thought they offered that with the Lenale fans?


Jerry

No thermostat came with the fans. Adding one is on my "to do" list, but it's works out pretty well using the dash mounted ACC switch to control fans.
Tom P.

[Aussie]

 The Following information was provide by Harley Davidson Service, 3rd Floor.

*At what temperature will Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil break down?
This oil has been designed for use at temperatures up to 300 deg F for extended periods with no significant breakdown.
  

**What oil temperature is best for my Harley-Davidson?
A good oil operating temperature range is 200 deg to 240 deg F.  Water condensation and acids tend to build up in the oil if the temperature is consistently below 180 deg F, and oil thickness can become marginal at temperatures above 300 deg F.
  
 

[biker0051]

I dont care what it is...tire pressure is more important...being a dipstick myself I had the dipstick, it broke. I am way too lazy to put in oil temp gauge, oil pressure is more important and I am impressed these new fangled HD's actually have oil pressure! 

A common misconception is about the oil pressure. HD oil pumps were/are a low pressure high volume pump. All those guys that bought springs to boost their oil pressure only succeded in flooding their crankcases with oil creating more drag on their flywheels reducing horsepower and torque.
NEVER put regular motor oil in your HD! Regular motor oil is designed for vehicles that maintain a 180-195 degree temp. HD's run at 240 degrees or so. HD motor oil is blended specifically to withstand those kinds of temps.

[SteveO]

230-250 is normal on a hot 90+ degree day.

I would be running a full synthetic 20W50 motorcycle oil like Amsoil or Mobil 1 motorcycle 20W50.

[clegg]

I replaced the ambient air temp guage on my bike with the oil temp guage after the dipstick crapped out. I love just being able to see where I am running. Some people say it does not matter, it is what it is, but any extra insight about what is going on in the engine to me is a good thing. Besides, can you have a more worthless guage than the ambient air temp guage? I used to call it the windshiled wiper because it just wags back and forth. As for temp I am all over the map here is South Dakota. It will hover just over 180 on a cold day, say 40-50 degrees. On a a nice day around 200, say 70-75 degrees out. When the temps climb in the summer I will see 220-230. I watch it climb north of 240-250 while stuck in traffic or at stoplights, then get a satisfied feeling when I get back in the wind and see it drop. I really like to eyeball it while weaving my way thru Sturgis so I can say to myself "Thats too high, I better pull off to the side for a brew and let it cool"!

[biker0051]

230-250 is normal on a hot 90+ degree day.

I would be running a full synthetic 20W50 motorcycle oil like Amsoil or Mobil 1 motorcycle 20W50.

I graduated from MMI in May 1994. At that time HD allowed the use of Mobil 1 in a emergency and it wouldn't void your warrenty. And only till you could get to a HD dealership and get HD motor oil. HD, if I remember correctly, didn't marketa synthetic oil back then.

[dlaws01]

I graduated from MMI in May 1994. At that time HD allowed the use of Mobil 1 in a emergency and it wouldn't void your warrenty. And only till you could get to a HD dealership and get HD motor oil. HD, if I remember correctly, didn't marketa synthetic oil back then.

Who were they kidding?  You can run any manufacturer's brand oil if it meets or exceeds the rating requirements of the engine it's going in. Regardless of what the engine manufacturer says. 

[biker0051]

Who were they kidding?  You can run any manufacturer's brand oil if it meets or exceeds the rating requirements of the engine it's going in. Regardless of what the engine manufacturer says. 

And Mobil 1 was the only one that was close. As I said, that was back in '94. Please, feel free to go buy a new CVO, drain the oil, then put in whatever you like. If, and when, the engine seizes, they will ask for oil samples before authorizing a rebuild or replacement. Not HD oil, claim will more than likely be denied.
Conventional motor oils are designed for LIQUID COOLED engines that MAINTAIN a operating temperature of 180-195 degrees. We have already established here that HD's run hotter than that.

[Midnight Rider]

And Mobil 1 was the only one that was close. As I said, that was back in '94. Please, feel free to go buy a new CVO, drain the oil, then put in whatever you like. If, and when, the engine seizes, they will ask for oil samples before authorizing a rebuild or replacement. Not HD oil, claim will more than likely be denied.
Conventional motor oils are designed for LIQUID COOLED engines that MAINTAIN a operating temperature of 180-195 degrees. We have already established here that HD's run hotter than that.

Nobody is talking about conventional motor oils.  As you say, the majority of them are designed for car engines, not motorcycle engines, regardless of whether they are air or water cooled.  There are other factors that come into play, not just engine temps...Wet Clutches, for example.  And a LOT of bikes run wet clutches common to the crankcase oil.  There are several products out there designed for Vtwin (Harley) motors...Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, and Syn 3, just to name 4.  Harley would be hard pressed to prove that Syn 3 is superior to the other three...in fact, it would surprise me if it were not 4th in that list.  Since HD chooses not to put the SAE specifications on their bottles of oil, and their oil is likely low bid, by whatever maufacturer, they would have a hell of a time denying warranty coverage simply due to oil brand.  In fact, there are numerous instances here on the site of people who do not run Syn 3 in their bikes who have had engine related failures covered by warranty.  I can 100% assure that an engine failure on a modern day Twin Cam will NOT be due to inferior motor oil (if properly changed every 5K), but will be caused by inferior PARTS that HD is putting the engine together with.  So that dog won't hunt...

As I am sure you are aware, any vehicle manufacturer that dictates the brand of motor oil you MUST use in that vehicle, must, by Federal Law, furnish the product free of charge.  I don't see anyone getting free oil from HD.

[halfcirclej]

My 2cents. As a pilot an fly my airplane with air cooled engine.  Oil temp is very important.  Any increase in temp from a known temp range of my engine is an indication of something amiss from normal.  Its best to find the problem before complete failure. Its usually cheaper in the long run. Just saying I watch my oil temp closely.

[grc]

My 2cents. As a pilot an fly my airplane with air cooled engine.  Oil temp is very important.  Any increase in temp from a known temp range of my engine is an indication of something amiss from normal.  Its best to find the problem before complete failure. Its usually cheaper in the long run. Just saying I watch my oil temp closely.

I agree, in your circumstance a sudden variation from your customary oil temperature is a good indicator of something possibly being amiss.  But on the other hand, how often do you sit in traffic with no air flowing across your engine in that airplane?  Probably not an apples to apples comparison, in other words.


Jerry

[halfcirclej]

Jerry, sometime it can be a long time. Depends on traffic, ,long runways an taxiway. Control towers an priority tragic, etc. I have been up to 45 minutes before I could finally get to runway for take off Sometime pull out of line to get some prop wash from acft in front of me. We also use oil developed for air cooled engines. Used to use aeroshell w 20-50 in one of my ole sporsters.
They use to say it woiuld run for 30 min after oil pump failure. Due to special additaves in the oil. There are times when its about the same, not always thou. HAGD.

[LovemyCVOgirl]

FYI   Who do you think makes Harley Synthetic oil    Amsoil. That's the company that makes the Harley synthetic oil that I read so much bitching about on this web site. 

[Midnight Rider]

FYI   Who do you think makes Harley Synthetic oil    Amsoil. That's the company that makes the Harley synthetic oil that I read so much bitching about on this web site. 

I've always heard that it comes though Citgo.  And Citgo comes through Venezuela, which is a crappy government.  But so are others.  I seriously doubt Amsoil makes it or they would not be doing comparative tests against it, which always show that Amsoil is "better", as well as others.  HD would have big time issues with those tests if they had a contract with Amsoil.

It's low bid, whatever it is...

Not saying that Syn 3 is complete garbage, just that there are better products out there, IMO.  I don't like the fact that HD does not publish the specifications on the oil, like it's some closely guarded secret formula, which is BS.

[Twolanerider]

FYI   Who do you think makes Harley Synthetic oil    Amsoil. That's the company that makes the Harley synthetic oil that I read so much bitching about on this web site. 

Citgo is the OE for the Harley oil.  Sunoco used to be several years ago.  A company called Champion labs makes the HD branded oil filters.

OE for the various fluids with Mother Harley's name on them is (literally) all over the map.  Just a few examples (and may not all be current):

H-D WINTER FUEL CONDITIONER (DOWANOL DM GLYCOL ETHER) 99889-91A HJS OF WISCONSIN

HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPORT-TRANS FLUID 99896-88 HJS OF WISCONSIN
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING GREASE 99856-92 HJS OF WISCONSIN
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON FORK OIL TYPE B 99880-73 HJS OF WISCONSIN

HARLEY BRIGHT METAL POLISH 99725-89 ROLITE CHEMICAL
 
HARLEY DAVIDSON FUEL ADDITIVE WITH DURALT FUEL CONDITIONER 99893-91A POLAR MOLECULAR
 
HARLEY BUG REMOVER, BLACK CREME POLISH 99271-96V APPLE POLISHES
 
HARLEY DAVIDSON LEATHER CARE 98263-95V APPLE POLISHES
 
HARLEY DAVIDSON LEATHER CLEANER 99274-98V APPLE POLISHES
 
HARLEY DAVIDSON SUEDE & FABRIC CLEANER 99272-96V APPLE POLISHES
 
HARLEY DAVIDSON SPRAY POLISH 99817-99 PETRO CHEMICAL PRODUCTS
 
HARLEY GLAZE 99701-84 CHEMRITE INDUSTRIES
 
HARLEY GLOSS 94627-98 CHEMRITE INDUSTRIES
 
HARLEY SUNWASH 94659-98 CHEMRITE INDUSTRIES
 
HARLEY SWIRL & SCRATCH REMOVER 94655-98 CHEMRITE INDUSTRIES
 
HARLEY WHEEL & TIRE CLEANER 94658-98 CHEMRITE INDUSTRIES
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON WINDSHIELD WATER REPELLENT 99841-01 CHEMRITE INDUSTRIES
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON LEATHER DRESSING 98261-91V PECARD CHEMICAL
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON POLY OIL 99860-81 GENERAL POLYMERIC
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON CHAINCASE OIL 99887-84 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON HD MOTOR OIL, SAE 10W-40 99816-1040 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON HD MOTOR OIL, SAE 20W-50 99816-2050 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON HD MOTOR OIL, SAE 50 99816-50 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON HD MOTOR OIL, SAE 60 99816-60 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON HYDRAULIC FORK OIL TYPE E 99884-80 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE FORK OIL (HEAVY) 99881-87 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE RACING FORK OIL (EXTRA HEAVY) 99909-93R CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SEMI-SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT 99892-84 CITGO PETROLEUM
 
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SYNTHETIC SCREAMIN' EAGLE MOTOR OIL, SAE 20W-50 99824-03 CITGO PETROLEUM

HEAVY DUTY CHAIN LUBE - PJ1

DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID 99902-77 DOW-CORNING

[LC110]

According to the "Material Safety Data Sheet" for H-D's SYN3, it is chemically a blend of 60% synthetic and 40% petroleum oils.

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on the SYN-3, as filed with the Federal Government.
Manufactured by - Citgo Petroleum.
Composition section:

Component
CAS #
Concentration

(1) 1-Decene Homopolymer, hydrogenated
68037-01-4
50% - 70%

(2) Proprietary Ingredients
Proprietary Mixture
1% - 10%

(3) Polyisobutylene
9003-27-4
1% - 10%

(4) Distillates, Petroleum, Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic
64742-54-7
0% - 20%

(5) Distillates, Petroleum, Solvent-Refined Heavy Paraffinic
64741-88-4
0% - 20%

(6) Zinc Alkyldithiophosphate
68649-42-3
0% - 2%

[cahdbiker]

SE66, On a personal note I am glad I don't have an oil temp gauge. I went thru St. George Utah last August with my wife and luggage and it was about 115 degrees while they were putting down fresh black top (not the smartest time of year to go thru that area, but that was the only time I could get for vacation). I was on my way home from Canada.I would hate to imagine what my oil temp was. No problems with the bike and when I got to Las Vegas that evening at dusk it was still 107 degrees. I figure if my bike can go thru that and have good oil pressure (which I do) what do I need to know the oil temp for.(BTW my only upgrades are Fulsac stage 1 with 1.75 Baffles)  Just my 2 cents and two beers. Good riding to all you guys this summer. CAHDBIKER

[rxbob]

Rode the colonial parkway last Friday.  No stops or traffic.  Mostly 35 to 45MPH. Stopped for Ferry at Jamestown and oil was 271 with ambient of 68.

[cvo1717]

My bike runs from 220-255 but have seen it as high as 275 in hot weather and traffic.

[biker0051]

still want to run that conventional motor oil? doesn't matter who makes HD oil, it's made to HD specifications, if you noticed it listed a "proprietary blend". Champion makes HD spark plugs, but the Champion plugs don't hold up as well as the made to HD spec plugs.

[dlaws01]

still want to run that conventional motor oil? doesn't matter who makes HD oil, it's made to HD specifications, if you noticed it listed a "proprietary blend". Champion makes HD spark plugs, but the Champion plugs don't hold up as well as the made to HD spec plugs.

You need to work for John Deere if you want to spread that manure around here.

[biker0051]

You need to work for John Deere if you want to spread that manure around here.

Yeah you're right. I just don't have a clue about HD's. Seems I wasted a year of my time and over $12,000.00 going to MMI. You seem to know so much more. What class did you teach there? I mean, I only spent about 5 years working on them. MMI usually only hires instructors with 5 years shop experience, and hey, they called me at the dealership I was working at and offered me a instructors job. Let's see, they taught, Early Model('36 to '65), Ironhead and Shovelhead('66 to '83 or '84) depending on model, and 2 late model classes. So that was 4 class programs 3 times a day. Around 20-25 students per class, so that makes 240-300 students at a time graduating. I was 2nd in my class, the guy that was first had already had custom bikes published in motorcycle magazines. He attended to have the "Paper work" to show. So yes, you must be right, you know so much more about them than I do.
I used to love customers like you! I kept a quote laminated on my tool box from Adlai Stevenson, "There is nothing more horrifying then stupidity in action". You would have been one of the customers I would have read it. One of the customers that would want drag pipes, S&S carbs, braided brake lines that weren't DOT approved. You know, the guy that would come in and tell the wrench "my buddy said I need to get this or that, he knows what he's talking about! He works on his bike all the time!" That's when I would have them read the quote! YOU would have been reading it often!

[Twolanerider]

Yeah you're right. I just don't have a clue...

Another game of...

[UAV Pilot]

I dont mean to start a flame war, but the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for any manufacturer to require their own brand of ANYTHING or void a warranty. That includes oil, unless said product is does not meet the specifications set out by the manufacturer.  Thankfully most if not All exceed manufactures specifications.

[clegg]

UAV PILOT is right on here. Simple law. By the way dlaws01, if you are going to argue how good the HD oil is and the legality of running whatever oil you like I still have to wonder about your bonafides.. "Me thinks he doeth protest too much..." The fact that the HD oil is overpriced and inferior (though still good enough..) to several other brands of oil is not even open for debate around here or any where else. It is accepted fact by the majority of a very well educated group of people. (That would be us owners , riders, and wrenchers..)

[biker0051]

UAV PILOT is right on here. Simple law. By the way dlaws01, if you are going to argue how good the HD oil is and the legality of running whatever oil you like I still have to wonder about your bonafides.. "Me thinks he doeth protest too much..." The fact that the HD oil is overpriced and inferior (though still good enough..) to several other brands of oil is not even open for debate around here or any where else. It is accepted fact by the majority of a very well educated group of people. (That would be us owners , riders, and wrenchers..)

And what oils might that be?

[djkak]

A few questions that might help to move this forward are: where is H-D's engine oil service rating published, what is that published rating and what other products meet or exceed that rating?

or

This thing could devolve into an oil thread; it may already be too late, in which case everyone should raise shields and fire at will...oh and moderators take your battle stations! 

[grc]

Well I for one have learned a lot in this thread jacked thread.  The most important thing I've learned is that I and many others wasted a lot of money getting degrees in things like automotive or mechanical or petroleum engineering.  Who knew we could have saved a fortune and many years of our lives by just going to MMI for a year and becoming oil and spark plug experts.  I'm seriously considering asking my alma mater for a refund.  And I'll bet those guys at the big oil companies with all the advanced degrees are really kicking themselves in the ass right now.

Jerry

Oh, btw, could someone please pass the Koolaid?

[Midnight Rider]

Well I for one have learned a lot in this thread jacked thread.  The most important thing I've learned is that I and many others wasted a lot of money getting degrees in things like automotive or mechanical or petroleum engineering.  Who knew we could have saved a fortune and many years of our lives by just going to MMI for a year and becoming oil and spark plug experts.  I'm seriously considering asking my alma mater for a refund.  And I'll bet those guys at the big oil companies with all the advanced degrees are really kicking themselves in the ass right now.

Jerry

Oh, btw, could someone please pass the Koolaid?

 

[biker0051]

Well I for one have learned a lot in this thread jacked thread.  The most important thing I've learned is that I and many others wasted a lot of money getting degrees in things like automotive or mechanical or petroleum engineering.  Who knew we could have saved a fortune and many years of our lives by just going to MMI for a year and becoming oil and spark plug experts.  I'm seriously considering asking my alma mater for a refund.  And I'll bet those guys at the big oil companies with all the advanced degrees are really kicking themselves in the ass right now.

Jerry

Oh, btw, could someone please pass the Koolaid?

OUCH! I'm so hurt! Which degree do you have?