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[IronButt]

These are stock dyno numbers.  This is new to me, would like to understand the significance of how the numbers break out.  Maybe someone here is really bored and has the time or inclination to explain this to a newbie.

What's the goal as you make your adjustments.  Is higher really better?  Where do you want your power and torque on the curve so that it works?  Can you make adjustments, such as cams, exhaust, etc, with confidence that you can achieve your goal? Or is it a trial and error sort of thing?

Any source, such as an article, or whatever, so that I can learn?  Thanks.

First there are questions for YOU!

What are your riding goals? Touring, off the line performance, topend

How do you ride? First off the light, Going with the flow?

The Goals are your preference not your mechanics. If you aren’t honest with your mechanic, you will not be happy with the results.

So be honest in your goals and have honest expectations with your ride.

Don’t expect to spend $500.00 on a stock 88 or 96 /, to end up with a tire smoking daemon.

This is all about YOU and your goals. Ir you can define your goals there are qualified people who can advise you.

They can not read your mind and you must be honest in your desires.

Once you decide What???
Decide if your warranty is important?

If so Consult your dealer Service Manager. The Service Writers are great but they don’t handel your warranty claim with HD. This is very important!

Good Luck
IronButt

[Fired00d]

These are stock dyno numbers.  This is new to me, would like to understand the significance of how the numbers break out.  Maybe someone here is really bored and has the time or inclination to explain this to a newbie.

What's the goal as you make your adjustments.  Is higher really better?  Where do you want your power and torque on the curve so that it works?  Can you make adjustments, such as cams, exhaust, etc, with confidence that you can achieve your goal? Or is it a trial and error sort of thing?

Any source, such as an article, or whatever, so that I can learn?  Thanks.

This was contributed by a member a long time ago and I saved it as a word document. Can't remember the thread or the member to refer you back to, but have attached it again. It is long, but will explain dyno tuning, and hopefully answer some of your questions.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[IronButt]

This was contributed by a member a long time ago and I saved it as a word document. Can't remember the thread or the member to refer you back to, but have attached it again. It is long, but will explain dyno tuning, and hopefully answer some of your questions.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Nice article Fired00d 

If your computer will not open it, select OPEN WITH,  Microsoft NOTE PAD and it will let you read it.

Iron

[Fired00d]

These are stock dyno numbers.  This is new to me, would like to understand the significance of how the numbers break out.  Maybe someone here is really bored and has the time or inclination to explain this to a newbie.

What's the goal as you make your adjustments.  Is higher really better?  Where do you want your power and torque on the curve so that it works?  Can you make adjustments, such as cams, exhaust, etc, with confidence that you can achieve your goal? Or is it a trial and error sort of thing?

Any source, such as an article, or whatever, so that I can learn?  Thanks.

After I posted my last reply I noticed what type of bike you own. You have a heavy touring bike and what you are going to want is TQ vs HP unless you are all out drag racing your bike. Reason for this is you have a heavy touring bike and you want to get that weight up and moving down the road quickly (ie: passing a truck, getting out of harms way, jumping off the red light to impress your buddies). Unless you are the type that wants to hold the throttle WFO to see how fast of a speed you can reach on your speedometer then you want TQ early and that will carry you through the RPM range the longest.

There are a couple of choices you have that will work really well with your bike. Both Zippers and Freedom Cycles have developed cams specifically for the CVO 103ci motors. You can find out about these cams here -

REDSHIFT 575 CAMS & OTHER PRETTY PARTS There will be some dyno sheets included in that thread with members who have went with those cams.

Freedom Cycles / Yuill Bros. Cam Specs Some dyno results for Freedom cams can be found here - Freedom Cycles "Secret" FCC9 Cam Dyno.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[JW]

Fired00d and Ironbutt:

Thanks for your responses, they were both very helpful.  That article you gave is excellent Fired00d, now I feel like I have an understanding of the theory and how the dyno is used, very interesting.  Your must be a mindreader because the things you mentioned,"passing a truck, getting out of harms way, jumping off the red light to impress your buddies" hit the nail on the head.  I will also be riding two up a majority of the time, so thats certainly a factor for me to consider when I'm ready to spend some money.  Also, the warranty is still in the picture so I have my research to do. For me, it looks like early TQ rules.

[hd-dude]

These are stock dyno numbers.  This is new to me, would like to understand the significance of how the numbers break out.  Maybe someone here is really bored and has the time or inclination to explain this to a newbie.

What's the goal as you make your adjustments.  Is higher really better?  Where do you want your power and torque on the curve so that it works?  Can you make adjustments, such as cams, exhaust, etc, with confidence that you can achieve your goal? Or is it a trial and error sort of thing?

Any source, such as an article, or whatever, so that I can learn?  Thanks.

Read this thread:
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=6566.0

From looking at you AF line it appears to be all over the place. A good tune will have a flat line at about 13.3-13.8. The higher numbers are leaner.

[JW]

hd-dude.

Thanks.  Wow. That was an education.  Its pure physics.  Here are some questions and observations.

1.  I see now why HD has the AF ratio at 14.7, its the federal standard. They had to comply with the standard that dictates the most efficient use of fuel and is environmentally correct.That efficiency translates into more heat.  Its an engineering problem for them (and us).   I bet you on Dr. Dyno's first 110 run he had that figured out.  They should have put the R&D into it.  I wonder if that standard was thrust on them or if they knew all along they would have to deal with it? Anyway, I know this has been covered in depth elsewhere, but now it makes sense.

2.  It seems that you wouldn't want to buy mufflers that didn't have adjustable baffles, otherwise you're restricting your ability to get the most out of your bike.

3. My understanding at this point as a newbie to all of this, is that the PC and SERT give you the ability to adjust the fuel injection.  So what is the electronic module that adjusts the static timing?

4.  That AF ratio is key isnt it.  What do you think is the most efficient way to get my AF ratio straightened out on my stock bike?  The choices seem somewhat overwhelming due to my lack of experience.  Whats the minimum I can get away with?

[hd-dude]

hd-dude.

Thanks.  Wow. That was an education.  Its pure physics.  Here are some questions and observations.

1.  I see now why HD has the AF ratio at 14.7, its the federal standard. They had to comply with the standard that dictates the most efficient use of fuel and is environmentally correct.That efficiency translates into more heat.  Its an engineering problem for them (and us).   I bet you on Dr. Dyno's first 110 run he had that figured out.  They should have put the R&D into it.  I wonder if that standard was thrust on them or if they knew all along they would have to deal with it? Anyway, I know this has been covered in depth elsewhere, but now it makes sense.

2.  It seems that you wouldn't want to buy mufflers that didn't have adjustable baffles, otherwise you're restricting your ability to get the most out of your bike.

3. My understanding at this point as a newbie to all of this, is that the PC and SERT give you the ability to adjust the fuel injection.  So what is the electronic module that adjusts the static timing?

4.  That AF ratio is key isnt it.  What do you think is the most efficient way to get my AF ratio straightened out on my stock bike?  The choices seem somewhat overwhelming due to my lack of experience.  Whats the minimum I can get away with?

Being able to adjust back pressure can certainly help with torque issues, most importantly on bikes with straight pipes.

The module that adjust timing would be the ignition module on carburated bike.

Yes the AF is key to having the bike run well at all RPM's. You state that your bike is stock? Stock pipes, Air cleaners, no other mods? Either way you could get one of several tuning modules to flatten out the AF ratio. For ease of use on this configuration I would use the PCIII USB.

[GasRat]

my brother-in-law just had HD-Dude put the fcc14 cams in his bike & here's his dyno sheet. 1st run is a/c, Rinehart, and racetuner. Only difference on 2nd run is the cams and retune.

[erniezap]

my brother-in-law just had HD-Dude put the fcc14 cams in his bike & here's his dyno sheet. 1st run is a/c, Rinehart, and racetuner. Only difference on 2nd run is the cams and retune.

Tells a story regarding mid range torque, doesn't it...

[SPIDERMAN]

my brother-in-law just had HD-Dude put the fcc14 cams in his bike & here's his dyno sheet. 1st run is a/c, Rinehart, and racetuner. Only difference on 2nd run is the cams and retune.

Did they give you a sheet which shows the elapsed time for the curves ?

B B

[chunngle]

Forget to attach the dyno sheet. DOH!!!

[Hoist!]

Forget to attach the dyno sheet. DOH!!!

That's a great chart. What the hell are you running? Hoist!

[Twolanerider]

Forget to attach the dyno sheet. DOH!!!

Chunngle, here you go.  One more time in a format the site will display  .

[chunngle]

That's a great chart. What the hell are you running? Hoist!

Having a case of the dumbasses tonight. This was meant as a reply for another post that had all the info with it. Not quite what I was expecting but has a good torque curve and spools up real fast. Fun factor is there.
124 Rev Perf
R&R Billet Heads
62H R&R Gear Drive Cams
11:1
D&D Fatcat
SERT