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[skippy49]

  I did the HID conversion on my SERG and now when I start the bike once in a while the lights go out and stay out until I restart it and then they usually stay on.  It's also happened to just one of the headlights with the other one staying on.
  Anyone have any idea what I should check or what might be wrong?
TIA,
Steve

[Bojiboy]

Was that the Harley HID you installed?

[skippy49]

No, I got them from  http://www.xenonlink.com/.  Learned about them in an earlier post on here.

[Iglide]

This generally occurs with the same light (right or left) consistently. You could pull the fairing again and send the ballast / cap assembly back to the manufacture. Or, each time you start the bike, switch the headlights to Hi beam and then back to Low beam. That will usually ignite the HID lamp without the the voltage drop, that the ballast / cap module is unable to overcome, when starting the engine. The capacitor in the ballast assembly, should provide the necessary voltage boost, when the engine cranks, and the voltage output is compromised. However; this does not seem to be the case. I would suggest that the size of the capacitor (if one exists), in the ballast assembly be reviewed by the manufacture. It should have the proper capacity (to hold the voltage) necessary for the lamp starting requirements. This occurs when the engine cranks and the system voltage has its normal draw and voltage drop.

My opinion may be wrong, but....

You tell me why xeonlink has not fixed this problem (whatever it may be) and we will both be better educated.... 
I would think, that this issue has been reported and it seems they have done... well nothing.... no one has contacted me....

Mine does the same thing...


 

[Highwaystar]

I ran a dedicated fused 12 gage wire from the Battery, under the tank to the fairing to power the igniter's. power from the accessory line in the fairing is under rated for the High-low zenon system. maybe this could help. :Nixie's:

[just-us-6]

I have the same issue with my Xenonlinks. It is always just been one headlight that would not reignite, but it varies as to which one. I have gotten in the habit of switching to high beams and then back to low right after staring, with the bike already running. This always takes care of it as then they both fire up. Sometimes they both come on after starting, but I can't see fom the seat, so I have found it easier to just do the high beam flip, rather than getting off the bike every time I start it and worry about it.

[Bojiboy]

No, I got them from  http://www.xenonlink.com/.  Learned about them in an earlier post on here.

OK. I was wondering because the Harley setup uses a relay connected to the starter circuit to kill voltage to the HID during startup. Perhaps adding a similar setup to yours would correct the problem. Just a thought.....

[Eqcons]

This generally occurs with the same light (right or left) consistently. You could pull the fairing again and send the ballast / cap assembly back to the manufacture. Or, each time you start the bike, switch the headlights to Hi beam and then back to Low beam. That will usually ignite the HID lamp without the the voltage drop, that the ballast / cap module is unable to overcome, when starting the engine. The capacitor in the ballast assembly, should provide the necessary voltage boost, when the engine cranks, and the voltage output is compromised. However; this does not seem to be the case. I would suggest that the size of the capacitor (if one exists), in the ballast assembly be reviewed by the manufacture. It should have the proper capacity (to hold the voltage) necessary for the lamp starting requirements. This occurs when the engine cranks and the system voltage has its normal draw and voltage drop.

My opinion may be wrong, but....

You tell me why xeonlink has not fixed this problem (whatever it may be) and we will both be better educated.... 
I would think, that this issue has been reported and it seems they have done... well nothing.... no one has contacted me....

Mine does the same thing...


 

I guess that's why the wiring on HD's HID headlamp is complicated in that it uses the relay behind the battery box to interrupt the feed to the HID while the starter button is pressed.....

Jim

[skippy49]

  I'm wondering which way would be better--to add a relay to kill the voltage to the HID circuit when starting, or to add a relay to the headlight circuit that feeds the HID system directly from the battery on a separate feed so that it doesn't have as much of a voltage drop when starting?
   I was thinking about running a wire direct from the battery to the HID circuit and controlling it with a relay in the headlight circuit so that it was controlled by the headlight circuit an could all be right there behind the fairing and the power coming directly from the battery.   But maybe my idea wouldn't help---I'm not an engineer for sure.

[Eqcons]

  I'm wondering which way would be better--to add a relay to kill the voltage to the HID circuit when starting, or to add a relay to the headlight circuit that feeds the HID system directly from the battery on a separate feed so that it doesn't have as much of a voltage drop when starting?
   I was thinking about running a wire direct from the battery to the HID circuit and controlling it with a relay in the headlight circuit so that it was controlled by the headlight circuit an could all be right there behind the fairing and the power coming directly from the battery.   But maybe my idea wouldn't help---I'm not an engineer for sure.

A relay which opens, and turns off the power to the HID, when you press the starter switch would be best I think.

Jim

[skippy49]

A relay which opens, and turns off the power to the HID, when you press the starter switch would be best I think.

Jim

  I wasn't thinking quite right when I posted that--I thought this way would be harder to do but after I thought about it, it wouldn't be too hard to wire that way.  I'll try it as soon as I get a relay.
Thanks,
Steve

[Eqcons]

  I wasn't thinking quite right when I posted that--I thought this way would be harder to do but after I thought about it, it wouldn't be too hard to wire that way.  I'll try it as soon as I get a relay.
Thanks,
Steve

Let me know how that goes, Steve - I'll be doing an HID conversion myself (high AND low beam) in a week or two.

Jim

[skippy49]

Let me know how that goes, Steve - I'll be doing an HID conversion myself (high AND low beam) in a week or two.

Jim

Ok,  I did the high and low too that's why the hi lo head light switch won't do anything about getting the lights back on.

[Highwaystar]

The igniter's main power can be wired from the battery directly with out a relay. Be sure to use a fuse. the on off power function of the igniter comes from the existing head lamp wiring.   

[skippy49]

The igniter's main power can be wired from the battery directly with out a relay. Be sure to use a fuse. the on off power function of the igniter comes from the existing head lamp wiring.   

  I can't find the web address of the install instructions and I haven't removed the fairing yet to look, but I was thinking that the only power connection I made was for the thing that switched the shield over the bulbs to change from high to low beam.  Maybe I misunderstood the purpose of that wire, or is there another power wire I forgot about?  I can see where the source I used for that wire might not carry enough current when starting.  Do you have a web address for the install or could tell me what wire is the power wire?  Guess I'm getting a little mixed up here.  I thought the system got it's power from the headlight circuit (the 3 prong connector) but I certainly could be wrong.   I'm just trying to figure out what I need to do before I remove the fairing so I'll have everything I need and know what I'm doing.   
Thanks for any help in advance!!
Steve

[Highwaystar]

The headlamp wires are for switching high-low and igniter on-off. Igniter main power is always hot.

[Smuuth]

I was having this same problem with the Xenonlink HID (The 9003/H4 kit, which uses halogen for the hi beam) I installed on my SERG.  Always the left headlight.  I emailed them about it and they did say they would replace the ballast if I got an RMA from their website and returned it.  They did not indicate this was a common problem, which is apparently the case.

I have not yet removed the fairing to remove and return the ballast yet, but in the meantime, I try to remember to switch to hi beam before I start the bike.

[skippy49]

Thanks Highwaystar,  I'll run a separate, fused wire to for power from the battery and see if that cures it.

[bakes]

hello, I noticed most of the discussion here about HID lighting is regarding the xenonlink products, which seem very affordable. but with several reports of trouble.   I received a recent quote for a digital xenon setup from xtralights.com in the $400. range.
I want to upgrade my stock 01 serg lighting to HID but am trying to differentiate between products.  How can the Xenonlink lighting for under $150 compare to a $400 model?  and why is there not more using the xtralight product.  I doubt price is the issue since we all know the huge sums invested in these machines.  also, does Harley make a HID retrofit kit for my bike and is it any good?  Finally aren't there just better bulbs I can switch to than the stock ones, that would improve my lighting without the need for ballasts and wiring etc etc.

If anyone cares to shine some light on this topic for me with regard to the above I would really apreciate it.  Bakes!

[skippy49]

hello, I noticed most of the discussion here about HID lighting is regarding the xenonlink products, which seem very affordable. but with several reports of trouble.   I received a recent quote for a digital xenon setup from xtralights.com in the $400. range.
I want to upgrade my stock 01 serg lighting to HID but am trying to differentiate between products.  How can the Xenonlink lighting for under $150 compare to a $400 model?  and why is there not more using the xtralight product.  I doubt price is the issue since we all know the huge sums invested in these machines.  also, does Harley make a HID retrofit kit for my bike and is it any good?  Finally aren't there just better bulbs I can switch to than the stock ones, that would improve my lighting without the need for ballasts and wiring etc etc.

If anyone cares to shine some light on this topic for me with regard to the above I would really apreciate it.  Bakes!

    bakes,   I really think after installing the HID lights that I would have been just about as well off if I had just upgraded my bulbs.  I'm not sure that the HID conversion is worth the cost and trouble for the extra light.  I think you can come pretty close with just a bulb upgrade.  But I haven't had mine very long to compare them to original.

[bakes]

that is interesting Skippy.

There are so many blogs on this topic I cannot determine what to do.  I think a simple bulb upgrade is probably a good place to start, but I dont even  know what product to look for , other than its an H4.  Seems there are some 55watt H4 bulbs that have improved lighting  and two of the ones I have heard about are called Silverstar and the other "NAPA Xenon Brightlight".  Im going to spend a few weeks absorbing info before I do anything.

[bakes]

Almost Forgot, here is a cool photo from the Americade Saturday.

[Smuuth]

hello, I noticed most of the discussion here about HID lighting is regarding the xenonlink products, which seem very affordable. but with several reports of trouble.   I received a recent quote for a digital xenon setup from xtralights.com in the $400. range.
I want to upgrade my stock 01 serg lighting to HID but am trying to differentiate between products.  How can the Xenonlink lighting for under $150 compare to a $400 model?  and why is there not more using the xtralight product.  I doubt price is the issue since we all know the huge sums invested in these machines.  also, does Harley make a HID retrofit kit for my bike and is it any good?  Finally aren't there just better bulbs I can switch to than the stock ones, that would improve my lighting without the need for ballasts and wiring etc etc.

If anyone cares to shine some light on this topic for me with regard to the above I would really apreciate it.  Bakes!

The difference between HID and halogen lighting is significant, in my opinion.  If you look at the original thread by Jim Kerr about installing the HID in his SERG, he included pictures showing how much further you can see with the HID.  I also think a lot of after market HID products are considerably overpriced.  Perhaps the xtralight products have additional features that make them better, but it may just be that the Xenonlink people are relying on volume sales to make a profit. 

There does seem to be an advantage to having a relay to interrupt the power to the HID to avoid the voltage drop associated with starting the bike, and that relay is not part of the Xenonlink system.  It was also suggested a higher capacitance value might help in that regard.  Remembering to switch to the high beam before starting the bike serves as a kind of manual relay.

When I had a Road King, I was satisfied with the light output from my single headlight when combined with the passing lamps after I replaced all the bulbs with higher output bulbs and wired the passing lamps so they would stay on with the high beams.   When I bought the SERG, I wanted HID for two reasons:  The difficult access to replace a bulb requiring removal of the outer fairing made me want lights that have a longer life and the desire for more light when riding at night.  The HID lights were my answer. 

Price is always an issue for me as long as the quality is acceptable.  I have never heard of xtralight so I cannot comment on their product and its value.  Maybe it is worth the extra $280, maybe not.

 

[GregKhougaz]

Have the xenonlinks with same issue.  I do have the halogen highbeams though.  I have spoken to Mike, the owner of Xenonlink, several times trying to resolve.  I have checked all the connections and installed relays which I got from Mike which did not help. 

My resolution is that I switch to the halogen highs when starting the bike.  Have not had the problem since.  The drop in voltage upon starting seems to be the problem.  I realize this is not an ideal fix but a practical one until I can run a separate line to the battery, probably one that switches off upon starting. 

[Iglide]

Have the xenonlinks with same issue.  I do have the halogen highbeams though.  I have spoken to Mike, the owner of Xenonlink, several times trying to resolve.  I have checked all the connections and installed relays which I got from Mike which did not help. 

My resolution is that I switch to the halogen highs when starting the bike.  Have not had the problem since.  The drop in voltage upon starting seems to be the problem.  I realize this is not an ideal fix but a practical one until I can run a separate line to the battery, probably one that switches off upon starting. 

Does anyone with the Halogen High Beam and HID Low Beam setup, installed on an 09 SERG, not have this problem?

[Highwaystar]

Again No Problem at all with the Xenon High and low system. The answer is a dedicated fused main power wire strait from the battery to the igniters. No more voltage drop because the battery acts as a dampner against the draw of the starter.

[grc]

I've got no dog in this hunt, but from what I've been reading here I would guess that the low price of the Xenonlink system has a lot to do with lack of engineering.  Why would anyone put together a conversion kit and then obviously not test it before selling it (I would imagine testing would have brought this problem to the fore), and then not include a few bucks worth of wiring and a few bucks more worth of relay to fix said problem in a professional manner.  I'm pretty certain they could have done the testing and then added a nice little wire harness and relay while still not increasing the price to the levels of the competition.  And I don't think switching to the high beams before cranking the engine is a real answer.  This stuff should be automatic.

BTW, even if there wasn't a problem getting the lights to "fire up", you still need a cutout for cranking.  Running the lights while cranking just reduces available voltage for starting, which could become a problem somewhere down the road when that battery isn't brand new and maybe the plugs are a little old and maybe the tune isn't quite right. 

Jerry

[Puzzled]

I have to agree with Highwaystar as far as a dedicated power line to the lights. I have the same problem that everyone else has mentioned. Recently I lost my lights all together, zip, nill, nada. I pulled the fairing to find the fuse was toast, not only blown but also melted. This is why I think a dedicated power line is the answer.

Add that to my list of things "to take care of".

[Puzzled]

I like GRC's idea of a relay to kill power to the headlights while cranking. I don't have a single bike that does this though. They all have the lights on as soon as they key is turned on.

[Smuuth]

BTW, even if there wasn't a problem getting the lights to "fire up", you still need a cutout for cranking.  Running the lights while cranking just reduces available voltage for starting, which could become a problem somewhere down the road when that battery isn't brand new and maybe the plugs are a little old and maybe the tune isn't quite right. 

Jerry

Actually, HID lights require less current during normal operation than the original halogen.  All modern Harleys leave the headlight circuit hot during cranking, so the OE halogens would be more of a reduction in available cranking capacity than the HID.

[TN]

i concur about the dedicated 12v from the battery. they also have a relay handi. i have the same system as we're speaking of,  and the fully digital too!. xeonlink is the chits for the tr because the bulb base length.


i learned the hard way

TN

[Highwaystar]

The problem every one is having is due to the small capacity accessory wire under the fairing. You are only using the original load capable head lamp wiring as a switching source for high-low and switching on the internal ballast relay. That tiny tap every one discovered is too small for two head lamps.  It is way undersized. The most important point would be that direct wiring to the battery eliminates the draw effect and isolates the head lamps from the starter.  

[skippy49]

Again No Problem at all with the Xenon High and low system. The answer is a dedicated fused main power wire strait from the battery to the igniters. No more voltage drop because the battery acts as a dampner against the draw of the starter.

  I finally got the web site address with the install instructions and the instructions do call for the main power to be connected directly to the battery.  This afternoon I had some free time so I pulled the fairing and ran both a hot wire and a ground from the battery to the HID connections at the lights and tried it again. (after fighting the fairing trying to put it back on---with the windshield still attached---until I finally removed the windshield and then it was fairly easy)   I've tried starting the bike several times now and the lights always have stayed on-so I think Highwaystar and the instructions are correct.  You need to hook direct to the battery for the power source.  I put the fuse back at the battery though so it would be easier to get to if it blew and also protect the wire from there to the lights.

[bakes]

i concur about the dedicated 12v from the battery. they also have a relay handi. i have the same system as we're speaking of,  and the fully digital too!. xeonlink is the chits for the tr because the bulb base length.


i learned the hard way

TN

i have no idea what you just said!

[Eqcons]

i have no idea what you just said!

Me neither! (I thought it was just me.....) 

Jim

[TN]

i have no idea what you just said!

the bulb base is the portion that has the electro magnet in it which makes the bulb go in and out. okay this portion sticks out from the headlight reflector itself. some of the bulb bases are too long for proper headlight adjustment and the fitting of the trim piece on the fltr. i have had some that would hit the inside fairing bracket. this bulb has the shortest bulb base that i have found. thats all.

http://www.xenonlink.com/popup_image.php?pID=4913&image=0



TN

[bakes]

ok. that makes sense, are you familier with the xtralight offering and their digital model which sounds easier to wire because the igniter and ballast are in the same unit (from what i read).  They also sell the other models, but claim this is the best and its water proof too , which sounds good.
im not going to decide anything for a few weeks, and hold off my impulsive nature!!!

[Highwaystar]

Skippy

[TN]

taking the fairing off is simple. putting it back on a tr is a bitch. try this. once the fairing is off, pop the headlight bucket out by depressing the three green clips on the inside. put the fairing back on the clips hooks, then insert the headlight bucket. don't force it.

makes the install much easier.


 

TN

[Jim Kerr]

I had a similar issue with one of my xenon lights.  It was perplexing because one light worked perfectly 100% of the time while the other one would fail to start almost every time.  I initially thought it was a power issue, but I noticed that the light wouldn't always ignite even when turning the ignition switch on (before start) with a fully charged battery.  When starting the bike, sometimes the light would start and sometimes it wouldn't.  I also noticed that the light would occasionally go out while riding.  A hi/lo beam swap usually got it back on, but it was annoying. 

I went through a series of troubleshooting steps that included changing the bulbs.  I thought about running a battery connection, but wanted to completely eliminate the HID system first.  I ended up changing the ballast to a new one and the problem went away.  Power is probably the problem, but I believe it is an internal issue with the ballast and its capacitor not specifically due to the power drop when starting.  The SERG has a good electrical system and it is designed to run halogen bulbs, which draw more amps than xenon (even during the initial startup).  Even if the lights go out when starting, they should immediately restart after the bike is running (no different than flashing lights when passing).  The restart/initial start is the issue most are having.  The second firing of the light is failing.

Xenonlink lights are cheap and they probably have spotty quality control to keep the price down.  They see this problem all of the time.  They have the same issue with cars.  My recommendation is to swap out the ballast on the light you are having problems with before doing anything else.  It should be a warranty swap.  I ended up buying a new kit so I had two ballast to play with.

[Highwaystar]

Jim, The problem is voltage drop in the system. The simple fix is installing a dedicated Main power wire off the battery to the ballasts. Remember, the bikes head lamp wiring is no longer load bearing for your xenon low, only a draw for High beam. The Xenon High-low system only uses the bikes head lamp wiring as a switching source and has no draw from the bikes head lamp wiring. It seems the Xenon Low only system is more sensitive. The battery will act as an isolator from voltage drop and isolate the ballasts when running a direct wire.

[Iglide]

I had a similar issue with one of my xenon lights.  It was perplexing because one light worked perfectly 100% of the time while the other one would fail to start almost every time.  I initially thought it was a power issue, but I noticed that the light wouldn't always ignite even when turning the ignition switch on (before start) with a fully charged battery.  When starting the bike, sometimes the light would start and sometimes it wouldn't.  I also noticed that the light would occasionally go out while riding.  A hi/lo beam swap usually got it back on, but it was annoying.  

I went through a series of troubleshooting steps that included changing the bulbs.  I thought about running a battery connection, but wanted to completely eliminate the HID system first.  I ended up changing the ballast to a new one and the problem went away.  Power is probably the problem, but I believe it is an internal issue with the ballast and its capacitor not specifically due to the power drop when starting.  The SERG has a good electrical system and it is designed to run halogen bulbs, which draw more amps than xenon (even during the initial startup).  Even if the lights go out when starting, they should immediately restart after the bike is running (no different than flashing lights when passing).  The restart/initial start is the issue most are having.  The second firing of the light is failing.

Xenonlink lights are cheap and they probably have spotty quality control to keep the price down.  They see this problem all of the time.  They have the same issue with cars.  My recommendation is to swap out the ballast on the light you are having problems with before doing anything else.  It should be a warranty swap.  I ended up buying a new kit so I had two ballast to play with.

Jim,
Mine also goes out occasionally while riding. And it's always the same one.
Did Xenonlink send you a new ballast and bulb set, without your sending in the exchange first? I really hate to mess with that fairing twice. Or, did you have to buy another set?
Seems to me this setup should work, without modifying the existing electrical system. If that becomes necessary, then so be it, just one more PITA.

Hiway,
At what point in the the fairing wire harness, did you tie-in that dedicated circuit back to the battery. Detail about this connection will help. I don't want the lights to be on all the time.
Pictures would be a big help.

At any rate, the required lamp starting voltage is what it is, (Xeonlink should know how much voltage drop this set up can tolerate). When the starter engages, the proper voltage is there or it is not. Voltage measurements at the battery and existing ballast supply wire, during start up, should tell the facts. If the voltage drop at the ballast supply wire is significantly lower than what is measured at the battery (I would guess no more than 5%) ... well....

There may be two problems here disguising themselves as one.

Thanks
Rob

[Jim Kerr]

Jim,
Mine also goes out occasionally while riding. And it's always the same one.
Did Xenonlink send you a new ballast and bulb set, without your sending in the exchange first? I really hate to mess with that fairing twice. Or, did you have to buy another set?
Seems to me this setup should work, without modifying the existing electrical system. If that becomes necessary, then so be it, just one more PITA.

The kits are fairly cheap, so I just bought a new one.  The setup seems to be working fine for me now that I've changed the ballast.  It is a PITA to pull the faring.  It was worth spending a few $$. 

[skippy49]

Jim,
Mine also goes out occasionally while riding. And it's always the same one.
Did Xenonlink send you a new ballast and bulb set, without your sending in the exchange first? I really hate to mess with that fairing twice. Or, did you have to buy another set?
Seems to me this setup should work, without modifying the existing electrical system. If that becomes necessary, then so be it, just one more PITA.

Hiway,
At what point in the the fairing wire harness, did you tie-in that dedicated circuit back to the battery. Detail about this connection will help. I don't want the lights to be on all the time.
Pictures would be a big help.

At any rate, the required lamp starting voltage is what it is, (Xeonlink should know how much voltage drop this set up can tolerate). When the starter engages, the proper voltage is there or it is not. Voltage measurements at the battery and existing ballast supply wire, during start up, should tell the facts. If the voltage drop at the ballast supply wire is significantly lower than what is measured at the battery (I would guess no more than 5%) ... well....

There may be two problems here disguising themselves as one.

Thanks
Rob

Rob,  I ran two wires directly from the battery, under the tank and into the fairing for the positive feed and a ground.  I put the fuse under the seat to protect all the wire and also to make it easier to get to  to replace it.  Someone else on here told me/us that the part that you plug into the old headlight bulb connector is just used to switch the light on and off and the high/low part but the main power comes through the power feed that is separate.  All I can tell you is that once I ran these wires, my lights stay on now.

[Highwaystar]

AMEN  

[Iglide]

Skip / Hiway,

Mine is not the Hi/Low bulb. Mine has the dual bulbs with HID (Hi Intensity Discharge) Low beam, and a Halogen Hi beam bulb. Two separate bulbs for each headlamp.

I am still confused as to where the new 12v battery wire, ties into the harness for the bulb / ballast assembly in the referenced (HID low and Halogen Hi) set up.

I like the fuse location idea. What gauge wire did you use and how big was the fuse? What did you choose for a fuse holder?

I've got a Hawg Wired system coming and will probably shotgun this whole thing, since the tank will have to come off anyway. I just want to have all the parts in hand when the time comes. I'll take some voltage measurements as I go.

The SERG is a daily rider and I don't want any "daylight" down time during this part of the season, when the weather is so favorable.

 

Thanks
RB

[Highwaystar]

I was able to run a 12 guage wire in the wiring channel under the tank by unbolting and lifting the back of the tank about two inches. I used a wooden block to hold it up and safety wire to fish it though. The wire comes up around the steering neck and to the ballasts. I located the fuse under the seat. I now have a good power source for the lights and more. Any futher switching can be done with a relay.

[Iglide]

I was able to run a 12 gauge wire in the wiring channel under the tank by unbolting and lifting the back of the tank about two inches. I used a wooden block to hold it up and safety wire to fish it though. The wire comes up around the steering neck and to the ballasts. I located the fuse under the seat. I now have a good power source for the lights and more. Any futher switching can be done with a relay.

I have the H4,9003 kit. The power supply wire in the harness (normally used for the Bi-xeon kit) is not used with the 9003 (to the best of my knowledge). I have nothing hooked to that factory wire now. The kit I have does not include a wire to connect to the power supply wire in the factory harness.
What I am trying to gather, is exactly what have you hooked that newly run battery wire to? Which wire in the harness?  

I have the H4 (9003, HB2) Hi/Lo 6000k Automobile HID kit

Please show on the attached diagram where you have connected the 12 ga wire back to the battery.

[Iglide]

Hey, where'd everybody go ??      

[skippy49]

I have the Bi-Xenon which has a power feed to be hooked directly to the battery.  I don't know about the halogen high and xenon low---how it's set up.

[SE Junkie]

I have the exact same problem with a set of Xetronic HIDs for the same bike.  I got them from, Jim (HD-Dude) from Metal Dragon.  He wants me to send the ballast back so he can RMA it.  What a pain in the AAA taking the fairing off 2 more times!

I hope that someone comes up with a solid solution, as now it doesn't sound like I have a ballast problem.

Please keep me in the loop.  Jack   

[Iglide]

Have the xenonlinks with same issue.  I do have the halogen highbeams though.  I have spoken to Mike, the owner of Xenonlink, several times trying to resolve.  I have checked all the connections and installed relays which I got from Mike which did not help.  

My resolution is that I switch to the halogen highs when starting the bike.  Have not had the problem since.  The drop in voltage upon starting seems to be the problem.  I realize this is not an ideal fix but a practical one until I can run a separate line to the battery, probably one that switches off upon starting.  

I am attempting to get in contact with Mike. Could you PM his number to me ?

Thanks Greg,
Rob

[Highwaystar]

The xenon high and low system uses a dedicated power wire from the battery. The xenon low only system will need to have its power source moved from the original head lamp supply to a newly installed wire from the battery to the ballast as described earlier. I think the problem is the normal power interruption (more power to the starter) that is built into the bikes system during start up. It interrupts the ballast during its initial start up and causes failures. Your original halogen system has no problem with interruption or voltage drop. The best plan for new buyers would be selecting the high and low system when choosing xenon. It is more efficient and has no problems.

[Iglide]

The xenon high and low system uses a dedicated power wire from the battery. The xenon low only system will need to have its power source moved from the original head lamp supply to a newly installed wire from the battery to the ballast as described earlier. I think the problem is the normal power interruption (more power to the starter) that is built into the bikes system during start up. It interrupts the ballast during its initial start up and causes failures. Your original halogen system has no problem with interruption or voltage drop. The best plan for new buyers would be selecting the high and low system when choosing xenon. It is more efficient and has no problems.

So, if I run a wire from the battery to the voltage input on the ballast assembly, will that fix my problem? Seems like the lights will be on all the time. Don't recall this issue being discussed earlier. Maybe I missed it. Please refer to my earlier post and the wire diagram. Tell me where to tie in the 12 VDC battery wire.

[skippy49]

So, if I run a wire from the battery to the voltage input on the ballast assembly, will that fix my problem? Seems like the lights will be on all the time. Don't recall this issue being discussed earlier. Maybe I missed it. Please refer to my earlier post and the wire diagram. Tell me where to tie in the 12 VDC battery wire.

  My system had a power feed line clearly marked to be hooked to the battery.  At first I connected it to a hot line in the fairing and my lights would go out.  I then ran a wire directly from the battery to this line and that corrected my problems.  Mine had a tag on it that said to connect directly to the battery, it doesn't match the electrical drawing above.

[Iglide]

My system had a power feed line clearly marked to be hooked to the battery. At first I connected it to a hot line in the fairing and my lights would go out.  I then ran a wire directly from the battery to this line and that corrected my problems.  Mine had a tag on it that said to connect directly to the battery, it doesn't match the electrical drawing above.

Skip,
Please refer to reply #47, The kit I have is diff from yours. And there is no wire to connect to a 12VDC source. My power source is likely from a relay off the battery. And yes, maybe that wire is too small, not sure. I will have to trace that wire (that once supplied the bulb and now supplies the ballast) back to the a relay off the battery supply. If I were to run a wire directly from the battery to the ballast (as suggested) my lights would be on all the time.

 


Problem I have is getting in contact with ANYONE at Xeonlink...... period!
If I crack that fairing and pull the tank to trace that supply wire back to a relay (likely operated by the ignition switch) I would like to change out the faulty ballast at the same time. It seems to me that the ballast should be able to handle the voltage drop associated with starting the engine. I would think a cap or time delay relay would provide this capability.


Got to go to a friends fish fry. Friday night and all......   

[Highwaystar]

One hot wire from the battery to a simple relay mounted near the ballast (from looking at your wiring diagram). switch the relay on and off with the wire from your head lamp wiring high beam. this should fix the low only xenon system. The instructions on line ask for a minimum of 20 amps per lamp. the existing wiring is the problem.    

[2018_FLTRXSE]

One hot wire from the battery to a simple relay mounted near the ballast (from looking at your wiring diagram). switch the relay on and off with the wire from your head lamp wiring high beam. this should fix the low only xenon system. The instructions on line ask for a minimum of 20 amps per lamp. the existing wiring is the problem.    

This was the thread I was looking for.... I am having similar issue and I am about to run dedicated power to the HID relay that powers the ballasts...

Thanks for the tips!

[GregKhougaz]

The older ballasts could not handle the voltage drop when starting.  If you have H4 high beams switch to highs before starting.  I have the newer Xenonlink ballasts which are now smaller too.  No issues when starting. 

GK

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Mine are new style digital ballasts.. but they will still drop one of the other on startup.. and the bi-xenons are unaffected by switching to hi/lo... all it does is move the focus poin, not light a second halogen bulb and power the xenon down...

UPDATE:

After a healthy thrash to make the bike ridable to work tonight... so far, moving the power to the battery instead of the HDI running light plug in the fairing seems to work.

One or the other blinks some times on startup, but never goes out, they stay lit at all times so far.. testing to continue...

now to fix the aim issue.

someone here took off the shrouding for the bulb and it seemed to work but I cannot find the thread... guess I have something to do tonight at work.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Mine are new style digital ballasts.. but they will still drop one of the other on startup.. and the bi-xenons are unaffected by switching to hi/lo... all it does is move the focus poin, not light a second halogen bulb and power the xenon down...

UPDATE:

After a healthy thrash to make the bike ridable to work tonight... so far, moving the power to the battery instead of the HDI running light plug in the fairing seems to work.

One or the other blinks some times on startup, but never goes out, they stay lit at all times so far.. testing to continue...

now to fix the aim issue.

someone here took off the shrouding for the bulb and it seemed to work but I cannot find the thread... guess I have something to do tonight at work.

Gotta love working at night...

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=28425.45

Thanks TN for your input on this... I'll take the fairing off tomorrow and take it apart again... and try it your way. it makes sense as the OE bulb had no shrouding.

What I did discover is that most talk about the bi-xenons moving the cover to change the reflectivity... mine actually moves the bulb in and out  moving the focus point....

[TN]

Gotta love working at night...

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=28425.45

Thanks TN for your input on this... I'll take the fairing off tomorrow and take it apart again... and try it your way. it makes sense as the OE bulb had no shrouding.

What I did discover is that most talk about the bi-xenons moving the cover to change the reflectivity... mine actually moves the bulb in and out  moving the focus point....

let me know how it works out for ya. i'm running both my tr's that way. got them pointed a tad low so its not obnoxious to other drivers. when i hit high beam it lights the road up from ditch to ditch. what brand you running? mine is the xeonlink bi-xenons 6000k.



TN

[2018_FLTRXSE]

let me know how it works out for ya. i'm running both my tr's that way. got them pointed a tad low so its not obnoxious to other drivers. when i hit high beam it lights the road up from ditch to ditch. what brand you running? mine is the xeonlink bi-xenons 6000k.



TN

I've been doing so much extracurricular stuff I havent had time to take everything apart again.. guess I'll order my J&M stuff so I can do all of that the next go around.

In the interrim... I have to run the high beams the damn things are set so low.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Longterm HID issues:

One went out recently... so I called the guy I purchased the set from and he said he would warranty it for me... It was a failed bulb, the ballasts are fine. Just gota wait for the arrival.

I still ride the bike daily so I needed to make both lights work, so I went to Wallyworld and picked up the Silverstar Ultra in a pair and installed those and corrected the aim... these are pretty nice.

In the interim, I pulled the fuse for the HID, and left the ballasts and everything else in the bike.

[Panhead_Jimmy]

Longterm HID issues:

One went out recently... so I called the guy I purchased the set from and he said he would warranty it for me... It was a failed bulb, the ballasts are fine. Just gota wait for the arrival.

I still ride the bike daily so I needed to make both lights work, so I went to Wallyworld and picked up the Silverstar Ultra in a pair and installed those and corrected the aim... these are pretty nice.

In the interim, I pulled the fuse for the HID, and left the ballasts and everything else in the bike.

I've gone through about a dozen Silverstars.  They only last about 6-months, so switched to HID and love 'em.