Topic: Mounting Condor or any wheel chock to a trailer - Recommendations or feedback (Read 20661 times)

cvo2007 · « **on:** January 21, 2014, 12:40:21 PM »

OK. Getting out of this Ohio weather and heading somewhere warm for awhile and want to take my bike with me so need to trailer through the snow and salt. Purchased an enclosed trailer and a Condor PSTK 6400 that has the quick disconnect. This thing scares the hell out of me. Nowhere in the instructions does it say anything about the need to go through a frame or anything except to make sure you use the fender washers. Are they saying it is alright to just mount through a plywood floor? When strapping down a 750lb+ bike with the straps pulling forward and the only thing keeping the bike from moving forward is this wheel chock mounted with (2) 5/16" bolts through a plywood floor just does not seem like enough to me. There are 4 additional tapered holes drilled in the Condor are on the far ends points but if you use them you completely loose the quick release feature. Besides the instructions do not even address why they even put them there. With all of the recommendations to buy the Condor can you give me and others some feedback on if you used the quick release bracket and or maybe how you actually mounted the chock. My trailer has all square tubing and really no way to actual mount directly to the frame. Am I trying to overkill this installation?

VaEagle · « **Reply #1 on:** January 21, 2014, 01:04:06 PM »

Not on Condor but you may get some info from these two videos on the Wheeldock setup...
http://www.wheeldock.com/page/home/resources/wheel-chock-information/wheel-chock-videos

mrdinny · « **Reply #2 on:** January 21, 2014, 01:09:28 PM »

CVO
I bolted my condor thru the plywood and have never had an issue but it is one of the older types that have the four flat plates pre-drilled.

owl893 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 21, 2014, 01:32:11 PM »

that is a good vid from VaEagle, that is the concept. That said I had the same concern as you; the Condor has four mounting holes in the "legs", I set up an 8 X 14 trailer with two Condors, offset. I welded nuts to stainless 4" X 4" plates and mounted the plates (underside) with smaller nuts and bolts in each corner. Overkill, but it I didn't need to worry about it in the mountains. Condors don't move around much with the bike loaded on them. Used D-ring slots on the sides and flip ups in the middle. I made the port side Condor permanent, I made the other one movable from dead center when pulling one bike, to starboard when pulling two. I mounted the port unit 18 inches forward of the other one so that the fairings would stagger. Try to balance the bike (you will need help) so that it isn't too tongue heavy, if you can, tape up the axle(s) location inside and position the bike like you would on a garage jack. You need some tongue weight so the rig isn't "popping", so place it a little forward of dead nuts balanced.

When you look in the side view mirrors and see your handlebars sticking through the side of your trailer, you will need to rework things. Hope this never happens, at times, "overkill" is a good thing.

OWL

Boatman · « **Reply #4 on:** January 21, 2014, 01:33:46 PM »

I had two of the fixed Condor's and the detachable that you have and had no problems. They are quality units. If you can't attach thru the frame and have room, make a 1/4" plate that is about twice as big as the Condor plate for the underside of the trailer and mount thru it-will spread a bigger load over the surface area. The Condor only mounts to the plate with 2 thumbscrews and the slots that hold the apparatus forwards.

Owl X2..

cvo2007 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 21, 2014, 01:58:42 PM »

This is why I like this site. It helps to kick around ideas. First, I called Condor and talked to someone and their statement to me was that as long as the floor is a minimum of 1/4" that is all that is needed. Starting to wonder if she meant to say 3/4" but she did state it twice. I suppose that technically the weight of the bike and the straps are technically holding the bike down. The Condor or wheel chock is just keeping it from moving forward and sideways and thus it is not what it would take to pull the bolts through the plywood but what it would take to tear the plywood horizontally which would be much greater. My eye bolts for the tie downs are into the frame.

I really liked the video and it started some creative juices flowing. Similar to Boatman's installation, I think I will get a couple of small plates or some large fender washers and weld some nuts and use them under the other 4 locations. That way I can quickly remove the bolts from up above and not have to crawl underneath and or keep it to a one man project. I know that this is probably overkill, but well worth the extra few dollars spent for the piece of mind. Thanks for the suggestions.

dayne66 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 21, 2014, 02:10:21 PM »

I would not rely on a chock to keep the bike from moving forward....a couple of straps going back are a must!

WFP · « **Reply #7 on:** January 21, 2014, 02:16:27 PM »

I have two Condors in my trailer, one the fixed version and one the removeable/dual use. They are great, I ride in and can step off the bike no issue...BUT, for traveling/pulling the trailer I always tie down the bikes to fixed points in the trailer. No worries that way. The Condor does not have to handle the bulk of the load this way. I do not tie down to the Condor chocks.

My tie down poinnts are all set up to pull the bike in the same direction, forward and into the Chocks.

Bill

cvo2007 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 21, 2014, 02:26:40 PM »

Great suggestion. I have 6 eye bolts on my trailer where I was using the two in the rear to wrap through the rear tire to keep it from kicking out, I will just use those two and also run some straps up to the passenger floorboard brackets. That should help keep everything in-place. It is going to take longer than the 2 minute video on loading and strapping down your bike that I saw on YouTube, but it should get there with no problems. I know that everything I have read states all straps pulling forward, I would not think having them pulling both directions would be a bad thing to have just in-case of a panic stop.

owl893 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 21, 2014, 03:28:08 PM »

absolutely necessary and those are good "hard spots", anytime you can use the frame for your soft ties it helps, and if you've ever pulled up and down through the Piedmont (or similar) you will appreciate those rear pulling straps.

OWL

Buy early · « **Reply #10 on:** January 21, 2014, 03:44:59 PM »

Quote from: WFP on January 21, 2014, 02:16:27 PM

I have two Condors in my trailer, one the fixed version and one the removeable/dual use. They are great, I ride in and can step off the bike no issue...BUT, for traveling/pulling the trailer I always tie down the bikes to fixed points in the trailer. No worries that way. The Condor does not have to handle the bulk of the load this way. I do not tie down to the Condor chocks.

My tie down poinnts are all set up to pull the bike in the same direction, forward and into the Chocks.

Bill

What he said...

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #11 on:** January 22, 2014, 01:31:33 AM »

Quote from: dayne66 on January 21, 2014, 02:10:21 PM

I would not rely on a chock to keep the bike from moving forward....a couple of straps going back are a must!

I always use 2 straps to the rear, off of the rear foot boards / pegs. Never had a bike come loose when tied down in an 'X' pattern.

fred786 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 22, 2014, 07:14:47 AM »

I ended up using the 4 tapered holes to mount the chalk to my Race Deck parking pad in my garage so the chalk wont keep pushing ahead or back when loading or unloading the bike. The chalk just would not bite into the Race Deck without sliding. Just put the bolts up through and used wing nuts for easy removal. Left the quick release permanently mounted in the trailer. I mounted the plate directly into the 3/4" plywood but still use tie downs to front and rear. Attached is my old trailer and have a new 14X7 Legend Low Rider out of Michigan coming in this week as I needed 7' to now get Trike in. 2 weeks until Florida bound for 1.5 months.

owl893 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 22, 2014, 07:47:42 AM »

nice rig Fred, well thought out

OWL

backroad Mike · « **Reply #14 on:** January 22, 2014, 09:36:26 AM »

Quote from: FlaHeatWave on January 22, 2014, 01:31:33 AM

I always use 2 straps to the rear, off of the rear foot boards / pegs. Never had a bike come loose when tied down in an 'X' pattern.

This.

I may be a little anal when tying a bike down, but I'd rather have a few extra straps than a suprise when I open the trailer.

mrdinny · « **Reply #15 on:** January 22, 2014, 10:01:35 AM »

Quote from: backroad Mike on January 22, 2014, 09:36:26 AM

This.

I may be a little anal when tying a bike down, but I'd rather have a few extra straps than a suprise when I open the trailer.

your correct the rear of the bike will bounce all over if its not tied down

cvo2007 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 22, 2014, 02:22:23 PM »

I am now a Condor believer. As you can see there is not much room on each side of the fairing, but I was able to pull the bike up into the trailer myself and strap it down without any additional people. Sorry about the messy garage but wanted to share my two cents on the Condor mount. It is 0 degrees outside right now so no outside shots.

CVO2FIXUP · « **Reply #17 on:** January 22, 2014, 09:21:44 PM »

It's like a huge white wale is eating your ultra. Can give a guy nightmares!!

eleft36 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 22, 2014, 09:41:59 PM »

http://www.amazon.com/Condor-Stop-Trailer-Wheel-Chock/dp/B001PNMOQE

I mounted with this and bolted through the cross member flange.
Easy to remove and remount.

Al

Twolanerider · « **Reply #19 on:** January 22, 2014, 10:03:40 PM »

Quote from: WFP on January 21, 2014, 02:16:27 PM

I have two Condors in my trailer, one the fixed version and one the removeable/dual use. They are great, I ride in and can step off the bike no issue...BUT, for traveling/pulling the trailer I always tie down the bikes to fixed points in the trailer. No worries that way. The Condor does not have to handle the bulk of the load this way. I do not tie down to the Condor chocks.

My tie down poinnts are all set up to pull the bike in the same direction, forward and into the Chocks.

Bill

I spaced for position and mounted two Condor chocks inside one of the wide body Ironhorse fiberglass bodied trailers today bill. It already had solidly mounted recessed tie down spots that will work so I've not added anything else there. But the tie downs are as you describe; all to cinch the bikes forward. I was thinking I'd add more in the rear just to cinch the bike's rear wheels down. You've never had a back wheel slide or bounce either way with everything cinched forward toward the chocks?

WFP · « **Reply #20 on:** January 23, 2014, 04:48:38 AM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on January 22, 2014, 10:03:40 PM

I spaced for position and mounted two Condor chocks inside one of the wide body American Ironhorse fiberglass bodied trailers today bill. It already had solidly mounted recessed tie down spots that will work so I've not added anything else there. But the tie downs are as you describe; all to cinch the bikes forward. I was thinking I'd add more in the rear just to cinch the bike's rear wheels down. You've never had a back wheel slide or bounce either way with everything cinched forward toward the chocks?

I also have tiedown points in the rear, but they are not "pulling" the bike to the rear, moreso to the side or forward. In my truck bed years ago, I used two in the rear to prevent the sided to side motion. . I installed them exactly where I wanted them (all

based upon the bike in the trailer and in the condor chocIk even have tracks on the wall in case I am very nervous and want the side to side option to prevent banging in the wall. I did use this for a 2000 mile tow to Loveland a few years ago.

/Bill

Twolanerider · « **Reply #21 on:** January 23, 2014, 07:54:55 AM »

Quote from: WFP on January 23, 2014, 04:48:38 AM

I also have tiedown points in the rear, but they are not "pulling" the bike to the rear, moreso to the side or forward. In my truck bed years ago, I used two in the rear to prevent the sided to side motion. . I installed them exactly where I wanted them (all based upon the bike in the trailer and in the condor chocIk even have tracks on the wall in case I am very nervous and want the side to side option to prevent banging in the wall. I did use this for a 2000 mile tow to Loveland a few years ago.

/Bill

That's my plan too. Just have to get more tie downs. Used all I had getting the front and middle set up as I wanted. Can't use tracks on this fiberglass trailer but a thousand pound dead weight for a nice two place trailer is something I'll compromise in other areas for. Have seen rear ends of bikes bounce or slide a bit and just don't want to take the risk with the potential of two in side by side and their relatively close quarters if they happened both to have fairings.

cvo2007 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 23, 2014, 08:31:54 AM »

Quote from: CVO2FIXUP on January 22, 2014, 09:21:44 PM

It's like a huge white wale is eating your ultra. Can give a guy nightmares!!

CVO2Fixit. Never thought of it that way but see what you mean....I would rather see it as a cocoon that opens up and finds something more beautiful like a Harley. I thought about a plain open trailer but could not imagine having the salt eating at the chrome until I got to Arizona so found something lightweight and enclosed. Hey. Whatever it takes to get me out of here to somewhere I can ride and enjoy it is fine with me. Since you are in Ontario I am sure you can relate.

woodman · « **Reply #23 on:** January 23, 2014, 03:17:00 PM »

Quote from: cvo2007 on January 21, 2014, 01:58:42 PM

This is why I like this sight. It helps to kick around ideas. First, I called Condo and talked to someone and their statement to me was that as long as the floor is a minimum of 1/4" that is all that is needed. Starting to wonder if she meant to say 3/4" but she did state it twice. I suppose that technically the weight of the bike and the straps are technically holding the bike down. The Condor or wheel chock is just keeping it from moving forward and sideways and thus it is not what it would take to pull the bolts through the plywood but what it would take to tear the plywood horizontally which would be much greater. My eye bolts for the tie downs are into the frame.

I really liked the video and it started some creative juices flowing. Similar to Boatman's installation, I think I will get a couple of small plates or some large fender washers and weld some nuts and use them under the other 4 locations. That way I can quickly remove the bolts from up above and not have to crawl underneath and or keep it to a one man project. I know that this is probably overkill, but well worth the extra few dollars spent for the piece of mind. Thanks for the suggestions.

Did the same in my trailer. Worked great . Been to Arizona from Washington in the snow through the mountains. No problems and piece of mind. Also have the bikes strapped to the side and rear.

geezerglide · « **Reply #24 on:** January 24, 2014, 12:43:52 PM »

I have a 7 X 12 Logan Coach Trailer, I use two Wheel Docks now some how I lost the previous Condor Chocks I had. I place the wheel in the Wheel Dock make sure I release the bar to lock front wheel, I then use the tie downs that HD ship their bikes with and tie down front by going around the forks using a soft tie, and then securing the rear of bike of the bike by running tie downs from the rear frame to just to the side and a to the rear of the bike then I run a tie down to hold the rear wheel down from bouncing around.

Since the pictures have been taken I have run E track down each side and the middle of the trailer. Also I am going to lay down some rubber matting as that lino flooring is slippery when it is wet and in the winter when our boots are wet it is a hassle loading and unloading the bikes.

Pic 1

geezerglide

geezerglide · « **Reply #25 on:** January 24, 2014, 12:51:54 PM »

Pic 2

geezerglide · « **Reply #26 on:** January 24, 2014, 12:52:45 PM »

Pic 3

CVO Aqua-Glider · « **Reply #27 on:** January 24, 2014, 03:21:34 PM »

I use the $60 Harbor Freigt chock. I place it on rubber door mat. Tie bick down to fork tubes front and passenger pegs to the rear. When I arrive, simply lift it all out and place in bed of truck. I have not found it necessary to mount the chock.

Untitled by oneboltzfan, on Flickr

porthole · « **Reply #28 on:** January 25, 2014, 02:57:08 PM »

My motorcycle trailer has two BikePro brand chocks that are bolted down to mounting plates. I made sure that both of the mounting plates were secured to trailer frame cross members (front bolts).

My toy hauler (5th camper) had extra BikePro plates bolted down. At the NYC bike show I picked up a Condor to try out. For half a season I used the Condor supplied trailer mounting kit to attach that chock.

I no longer bolt the chock down. The Condor sits at a center marked position on the floor and is kept from sliding forward when loading with either a length of 2x8 or my electric cooler.

For me at least, more important then having the chock bolted down is a secure place tor straps. I use the aluminun aircraft track that allows mounting the rings anywhere in the trailer.

The chock is only used to allow the bike to be supported unassisted when loading.
2 straps from the running lights - forward, down and out. They keep the bike upright and pull slightly into the chock.
2 straps from the passenger foot pegs - straight out, down and just slightly rearward.
1 strap around the rear wheel pulling straight back (for panic stops)

I liked the Condor enough that I bought a second one for the trailer, but most of the time is it in the garage and I park the bike on it.

cvo2007 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 27, 2014, 03:25:56 PM »

My initial concern was that I was not able to mount the Condor to my trailer frame. There was a frame gusset that I could bolt through, but I could not buy a flat head bolt that would set flush in the Condor plate that was 5 1/2" long. The longest bolt offered even at a Bolt and Nut supplier was 5". While at the hardware store over the weekend on another project, I ran across a bolt coupler and the light bulb went on. I've seen these things but really never used one so did not think of it before. I will include a picture to hopefully help someone else out. It essentially couples two bolts together. What I plan on doing is connect the two bolts to get the length that I need one going down through the floor and the other going up through the gusset and tie them together with this connector. Problem solved! I now have my Condor trailer plate connected to the frame. Current plans to make this somewhat adjustable, from the top down would be the flat head bolt going through the condor trailer mount, through the trailer floor, fender washer flush with the underneath of the floor, nut (with nylon lock built into it), coupler, bolt originating through the gusset, nut that will lock onto top of frame gusset, nut on the other side of frame gusset. This will allow some flexibility on the length of bolt that I need and allow a precise lock down. I will add a photo after I get this done. Hope that helps someone else.

Duane and a couple of others have mentioned straps pulling forward and also towards the rear. This would help limit the stress or forward pressure on the wheel chock once things are in-place. Starting to feel more confident about using the Condor trailer quick release unit. Also saw the Harley and other tie down brackets that go on the upper trees where the driving lights mount. For $50 I am going to get a set of these since looping over the engine guards still gets the straps close to the lower fairings on my Ultra. Mounting on the lower legs by the fenders everything is chromed so again the brackets seems like a low cost investment and can quickly remove them since I may only trailer the bike once a year int he winter months.

porthole · « **Reply #30 on:** January 31, 2014, 06:55:35 PM »

All kinds of hardware.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#bolts/=qhv55o

Grizzly · « **Reply #31 on:** January 31, 2014, 08:46:35 PM »

I have an 8' x 12' Wells Cargo ME Series (featured with my Navigator on their website BTW)

http://wellscargo.com/wellscargo-trailers/motorcycle-trailers/me-series/overview/

with 2 wheel dock chalks installed. Been using this setup for years hauling numerous times to the west coast on Canada and the U.S. with trips to Texas, Arizona and Florida. I recently traded my Navigator in with just over 200,000k's on the dial and most likely over 125,000k's of that was from my hauling the bikes around.

It takes me less than 10 minutes to load to Ultras complete with tie downs. I use a total of 3 tie downs per bike... One through the front wheel as they suggest on their website, and one each from the frame just in front of the saddlebags on either side.

The bikes are very secure and I have never had any concerns with this system. Can't say enough about wheel dock chalks, they're the best! One of the best things about them is that I no longer need the wife to hold the bikes up while I tie them down as the chalk does it for me once I have released the lever and the front wheel is locked in.

I wish I had pics of our bikes loaded to share ready to roll, but will have to work on that. Sorry.

stix · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2014, 09:40:23 AM »

I have a 20' enclosed trailer with 1" plywood floor. to load multiple bikes we need the condors easily removable. I just put 1 1/2" screws through the tapered holes in the condors, use straps on the front end, but also one through the rear rim. For added piece of mind I also skew a piece of 2X4 about 6" long on either side (RH/LH) of the rear tire to ensure the back end can not shift. I have never had any issues with the condor skewed down. I don't see any need to bolt it through any structural frame work on the trailer. Carry a cordless drill and it only takes minutes to off load.

bigsixman · « **Reply #33 on:** February 01, 2014, 11:34:57 AM »

Quote from: fred786 on January 22, 2014, 07:14:47 AM

I ended up using the 4 tapered holes to mount the chalk to my Race Deck parking pad in my garage so the chalk wont keep pushing ahead or back when loading or unloading the bike. The chalk just would not bite into the Race Deck without sliding. Just put the bolts up through and used wing nuts for easy removal. Left the quick release permanently mounted in the trailer. I mounted the plate directly into the 3/4" plywood but still use tie downs to front and rear. Attached is my old trailer and have a new 14X7 Legend Low Rider out of Michigan coming in this week as I needed 7' to now get Trike in. 2 weeks until Florida bound for 1.5 months.

Nice looking and well laid out trailer. What are you using in the left rear for your tie downs? Is that e-track going up vertically on the walls?

Yellow09SERG · « **Reply #34 on:** February 01, 2014, 01:07:35 PM »

Not trying to thread jack, but posted this in another thread and got no activity. Any of you had any experience with any of the frame locking systems like the Biker Bar or Frame Lock?

Grizzly · « **Reply #35 on:** February 01, 2014, 01:30:23 PM »

Quote from: Yellow09SERG on February 01, 2014, 01:07:35 PM

Not trying to thread jack, but posted this in another thread and got no activity. Any of you had any experience with any of the frame locking systems like the Biker Bar or Frame Lock?

I'm interested in hearing reports on those as well... From what I understand NO tie-downs required which would make loading and unloading even faster.

Yellow09SERG · « **Reply #36 on:** February 01, 2014, 01:47:38 PM »

By watching the videos both dealers have on there websites they look like the perfect ticket for hauling

BigTrouble · « **Reply #37 on:** February 22, 2014, 09:35:20 AM »

I have a 7x15 aluminum trailer. I have installed EZ track, screwed into the plywood and through each frame cross member. I then utilized the condor chocks with their universal track adapters to position two touring bikes. You must tie them down. I add straps from the passenger floor board supports, pulling the bike forward slightly. Then added straps to the front of each bike for additional security and piece of mind. Keeps the bikes very stable.

owl893 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 22, 2014, 01:04:53 PM »

Quote from: Grizzly on February 01, 2014, 01:30:23 PM

I'm interested in hearing reports on those as well... From what I understand NO tie-downs required which would make loading and unloading even faster.

It is your risk, but personally I would never trailer my bikes without tie downs.

OWL

cvo2007 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 22, 2014, 01:24:37 PM »

With the lowers, I was having a problem finding a good place to tie down the front end. I know people are recommending the top area of the engine guards, but just did not want to take a chance of rubbing the paint through or something so found this little item. At least on my 2007 CVO, I needed something that would fit behind the turn signal bracket. There are a number of other designs if your turn signal mount is flat sheet metal. Harley offers one that supposedly fits my bike, but it is longer and hangs below the chrome mount and just does not look like it fits the bike. The Kurakyn 924 tie downs look great and can be left on all of the time without detracting from the rest of the bike. Just thought I would share it. They can be purchased on ebay for $50 and to me worth the insurance that I will not mess up the paint or chrome somewhere.

streetglider96 · « **Reply #40 on:** March 01, 2014, 12:20:56 PM »

The bed of my trailer is pressure treated 2x's so I mount the wheel chock with Tee nuts under the bed.
If your trailer has a plywood bed, I would mount the chock to the plywood with fender washers under the plywood.
he chock is only to stabilize the bike, the tie downs is where all the strength is needed, they should be attached to the trailers frame.

cvo2007 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 01, 2014, 12:42:29 PM »

My old trailer had channels that the wheels actually sat on and the wheel stop was part of that rail system. It was braced to actually keep the bike from moving forward. My new trailer had the 6 tie downs that are, like you mentioned, going through the frame. Using the Condor or wheel chocks is a new way of transporting the bike. It is a new mindset of thinking that the chock is for staging and stabilizing but not really used to keep the bike from moving forward. Once I got that in my head and thinking more that the straps are doing all of the work, it makes a lot more sense now. Sometimes hard to train an old dog but we get there eventually.

geezerglide · « **Reply #42 on:** March 01, 2014, 04:08:38 PM »

Quote from: cvo2007 on February 22, 2014, 01:24:37 PM

With the lowers, I was having a problem finding a good place to tie down the front end. I know people are recommending the top area of the engine guards, but just did not want to take a chance of rubbing the paint through or something so found this little item. At least on my 2007 CVO, I needed something that would fit behind the turn signal bracket. There are a number of other designs if your turn signal mount is flat sheet metal. Harley offers one that supposedly fits my bike, but it is longer and hangs below the chrome mount and just does not look like it fits the bike. The Kurakyn 924 tie downs look great and can be left on all of the time without detracting from the rest of the bike. Just thought I would share it. They can be purchased on ebay for $50 and to me worth the insurance that I will not mess up the paint or chrome somewhere.

Be careful with those hook type straps, if the front shocks should unload the hooks may come out of the mounting bracket holes, try and find a set of straps with the spring loaded hooks that cover the opening of the hook portion.

Or even better yet go to a HD Dealer and ask for the tie down straps that they fasten the bikes on to the pallets when they ship to dealers, those go around the lower fork mount away from any painted parts. Simply loop them through and then through the floor tie down point and ratchet the bike down.

A have included a picture the white HD Tie Downs are at the bootom of the picture.

geezerglide

streetglider96 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 01, 2014, 05:49:31 PM »

Quote from: cvo2007 on March 01, 2014, 12:42:29 PM

My old trailer had channels that the wheels actually sat on and the wheel stop was part of that rail system so it was there to actually keep the bike from moving forward. My new trailer had the 6 tie downs that are, like you mentioned, going through the frame. Using the Condor or wheel chocks is a new way of transporting the bike. It is a new mindset of thinking that the chock is for staging and stabilizing but not really used to keep the bike from moving forward. Once I got that in my head and thinking more that the straps are doing all of the work, it makes a lot more sense now. Sometimes hard to train an old dog but we get there eventually.

Keep in mind to tie down to the rear as well, you need a solid 4 point hold down. While unlikely in a front end collision the bike can flip over the front. and also rear end can swing sideways in a collision.
@ extra tie downs is a small investment

cvo2007 · « **Reply #44 on:** March 01, 2014, 10:11:06 PM »

This was probably discussed within the thread, but somewhere I read about placing a 4x4 with carpet under the frame around where the swing arm connects. That way when you use the rear tie downs it snugs it up and stabilizes the bike even more. Never personally tried that but will give it a try in a couple of weeks when I head out for Arizona Bike Week.

Author Topic: Mounting Condor or any wheel chock to a trailer - Recommendations or feedback (Read 20661 times)