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Author Topic: Mounting Condor or any wheel chock to a trailer - Recommendations or feedback  (Read 21817 times)

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porthole

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Grizzly

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I have an 8' x 12' Wells Cargo ME Series (featured with my Navigator on their website BTW)

http://wellscargo.com/wellscargo-trailers/motorcycle-trailers/me-series/overview/

with 2 wheel dock chalks installed.  Been using this setup for years hauling numerous times to the west coast on Canada and the U.S. with trips to Texas, Arizona and Florida.  I recently traded my Navigator in with just over 200,000k's on the dial and most likely over 125,000k's of that was from my hauling the bikes around.

It takes me less than 10 minutes to load to Ultras complete with tie downs.  I use a total of 3 tie downs per bike... One through the front wheel as they suggest on their website, and one each from the frame just in front of the saddlebags on either side.

The bikes are very secure and I have never had any concerns with this system.  Can't say enough about wheel dock chalks, they're the best!  One of the best things about them is that I no longer need the wife to hold the bikes up while I tie them down as the chalk does it for me once I have released the lever and the front wheel is locked in.

I wish I had pics of our bikes loaded to share ready to roll, but will have to work on that.  Sorry.

« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 01:54:17 PM by Grizzly »
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stix

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I have a 20' enclosed trailer with 1" plywood floor. to load multiple bikes we need the condors easily removable. I just put 1 1/2" screws through the tapered holes in the condors, use straps on the front end, but also one through the rear rim. For added piece of mind I also skew a piece of 2X4 about 6" long on either side (RH/LH) of the rear tire to ensure the back end can not shift. I have never had any issues with the condor skewed down. I don't see any need to bolt it through any structural frame work on the trailer. Carry a cordless drill and it only takes minutes to off load.
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bigsixman

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I ended up using the 4 tapered holes to mount the chalk to my Race Deck parking pad in my garage so the chalk wont keep pushing ahead or back when loading or unloading the bike.  The chalk just would not bite into the Race Deck without sliding.  Just put the bolts up through and used wing nuts for easy removal.  Left the quick release permanently mounted in the trailer.  I mounted the plate directly into the 3/4" plywood but still use tie downs to front and rear.  Attached is my old trailer and have a new 14X7 Legend Low Rider out of Michigan coming in this week as I needed 7' to now get Trike in. 2 weeks until Florida bound for 1.5 months.  :orange:

Nice looking and well laid out trailer. What are you using in the left rear for your tie downs? Is that e-track going up vertically on the walls?
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Yellow09SERG

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Not trying to thread jack, but posted this in another thread and got no activity. Any of you had any experience with any of the frame locking systems like the Biker Bar or Frame Lock?
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Grizzly

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Not trying to thread jack, but posted this in another thread and got no activity. Any of you had any experience with any of the frame locking systems like the Biker Bar or Frame Lock?

I'm interested in hearing reports on those as well... From what I understand NO tie-downs required which would make loading and unloading even faster.


« Last Edit: February 01, 2014, 01:32:53 PM by Grizzly »
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Yellow09SERG

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By watching the videos both dealers have on there websites they look like the perfect ticket for hauling
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BigTrouble

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I have a 7x15 aluminum trailer.  I have installed EZ track, screwed into the plywood and through each frame cross member.  I then utilized the condor chocks with their universal track adapters to position two touring bikes.  You must tie them down.  I add straps from the passenger floor board supports, pulling the bike forward slightly.  Then added straps to the front of each bike for additional security and piece of mind.  Keeps the bikes very stable.
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owl893

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I'm interested in hearing reports on those as well... From what I understand NO tie-downs required which would make loading and unloading even faster.




It is your risk, but personally I would never trailer my bikes without tie downs.

OWL
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cvo2007

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With the lowers, I was having a problem finding a good place to tie down the front end.  I know people are recommending the top area of the engine guards, but just did not want to take a chance of rubbing the paint through or something so found this little item.  At least on my 2007 CVO, I needed something that would fit behind the turn signal bracket.  There are a number of other designs if your turn signal mount is flat sheet metal.  Harley offers one that supposedly fits my bike, but it is longer and hangs below the chrome mount and just does not look like it fits the bike.  The Kurakyn 924 tie downs look great and can be left on all of the time without detracting from the rest of the bike.  Just thought I would share it.  They can be purchased on ebay for $50 and to me worth the insurance that I will not mess up the paint or chrome somewhere.
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streetglider96

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The bed of my trailer is pressure treated 2x's so I mount the wheel chock with Tee nuts under the bed.
If your trailer has a plywood bed, I would mount the chock to the plywood with fender washers under the plywood.
he chock is only to stabilize the bike, the tie downs is where all the strength is needed, they should be attached to the trailers frame.
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cvo2007

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My old trailer had channels that the wheels actually sat on and the wheel stop was part of that rail system.  It was braced to actually keep the bike from moving forward.  My new trailer had the 6 tie downs that are, like you mentioned, going through the frame.  Using the Condor or wheel chocks is a new way of transporting the bike.  It is a new mindset of thinking that the chock is for staging and stabilizing but not really used to keep the bike from moving forward.  Once I got that in my head and thinking more that the straps are doing all of the work, it makes a lot more sense now.  Sometimes hard to train an old dog but we get there eventually.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 10:04:10 PM by cvo2007 »
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geezerglide

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With the lowers, I was having a problem finding a good place to tie down the front end.  I know people are recommending the top area of the engine guards, but just did not want to take a chance of rubbing the paint through or something so found this little item.  At least on my 2007 CVO, I needed something that would fit behind the turn signal bracket.  There are a number of other designs if your turn signal mount is flat sheet metal.  Harley offers one that supposedly fits my bike, but it is longer and hangs below the chrome mount and just does not look like it fits the bike.  The Kurakyn 924 tie downs look great and can be left on all of the time without detracting from the rest of the bike.  Just thought I would share it.  They can be purchased on ebay for $50 and to me worth the insurance that I will not mess up the paint or chrome somewhere.


Be careful with those hook type straps, if the front shocks should unload the hooks may come out of the mounting bracket holes, try and find a set of straps with the spring loaded hooks that cover the opening of the hook portion.

Or even better yet go to a HD Dealer and ask for the tie down straps that they fasten the bikes on to the pallets when they ship to dealers, those go around the lower fork mount away from any painted parts. Simply loop them through and then through the floor tie down point and ratchet the bike down. 

A have included a picture the white HD Tie Downs are at the bootom of the picture.

geezerglide
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 05:12:36 PM by geezerglide »
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streetglider96

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My old trailer had channels that the wheels actually sat on and the wheel stop was part of that rail system so it was there to actually keep the bike from moving forward.  My new trailer had the 6 tie downs that are, like you mentioned, going through the frame.  Using the Condor or wheel chocks is a new way of transporting the bike.  It is a new mindset of thinking that the chock is for staging and stabilizing but not really used to keep the bike from moving forward.  Once I got that in my head and thinking more that the straps are doing all of the work, it makes a lot more sense now.  Sometimes hard to train an old dog but we get there eventually.
Keep in mind to tie down to the rear as well, you need a solid 4 point hold down. While unlikely in a front end collision the bike can flip over the front. and also rear end can swing sideways in a collision.
@ extra tie downs is a small investment
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cvo2007

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This was probably discussed within the thread, but somewhere I read about placing a 4x4 with carpet under the frame around where the swing arm connects.  That way when you use the rear tie downs it snugs it up and stabilizes the bike even more.  Never personally tried that but will give it a try in a couple of weeks when I head out for Arizona Bike Week.
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