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[happyman]

Wonder why Feulings web site shows a much lower and not so pretty curve with the 574 in a 110?
 
Because the 110 is very pipe sensitive, more so than the 96/103 motors.

that is part of the equation also,  as is what i said.   

[HD Street Performance]

First and foremost it is not my goal to mess with you or discredit you. Let's look at the reality of what is shown.
Those dynos on their site are from all over the country, Feuling took the results and graphically recompiled them. There is no indication of what vintage / model the dynos are what software is used or the correction factor used. Who knows if those dynos are on the high side or low

As far as honest and not honest dynos that is a stretch. All Dynojets are dishonest by design. They are an inertia dyno not load sensing measuring actuals with strain gauges or pressure transducers. research this and see for yourself. We are trying to pound this "honest" thing into a very crude device at best. Plus most poor guys out in the middle of the boonies are hard pressed just to find a decent tuner rather than  worry about the happy or not happy numbers. I am taking my personal bike to the most stingy dyno I know of in the pacific northwest and could give a crap about the numbers. I do know that it will be accurately tuned however, yield good mileage and have good driveability.

[happyman]

First and foremost it is not my goal to mess with you or discredit you. Let's look at the reality of what is shown.
Those dynos on their site are from all over the country, Feuling took the results and graphically recompiled them. There is no indication of what vintage / model the dynos are what software is used or the correction factor used. Who knows if those dynos are on the high side or low

As far as honest and not honest dynos that is a stretch. All Dynojets are dishonest by design. They are an inertia dyno not load sensing measuring actuals with strain gauges or pressure transducers. research this and see for yourself. We are trying to pound this "honest" thing into a very crude device at best. Plus most poor guys out in the middle of the boonies are hard pressed just to find a decent tuner rather than  worry about the happy or not happy numbers. I am taking my personal bike to the most stingy dyno I know of in the pacific northwest and could give a crap about the numbers. I do know that it will be accurately tuned however, yield good mileage and have good driveability.

am sure your aware of exactly waht i speak.   the settings on the dyuno are to make it appear to the untrained eye  a certain build will do this amout of hp and tq..  i know full well what you speak of and made it pretty clear what i was  saying also.   some sell parts via BS and  have many many unhappy people out there cause they cannot get the ##'s.  you also are aware that some are using dynos that have know issues  with drums and weigh and also uning antiquated dyno's that in there day were what we went by . today the versions have changed and the #'s are way down.  i know what i speak of  and so do you . i am with you on the #'s game as i don't ride my bike on a dyno..  i also like a good  build with  a great dyno to take advantage of why i spent the money  for in the first place..  i know  there are a lot more honest dynos  lately   so its easier for the people to sort through the  BS.  yup the tune is the reral issue but the numbers game as i said by some  are pure and simple  BS.. its just that simple.  oh  in case there for some crazy reason i have seen some very very good tuners on various forums  state  the same. so all i am doing is repeating it from those in the know.  just if looking at a build do the real homework and make sure things add up. when ya see the ##'s that are huge differance from the norm we need to beware..  i guess you can argue the point but its  not going to chage a thing.   

[Unbalanced]

First and foremost it is not my goal to mess with you or discredit you. Let's look at the reality of what is shown.
Those dynos on their site are from all over the country, Feuling took the results and graphically recompiled them. There is no indication of what vintage / model the dynos are what software is used or the correction factor used. Who knows if those dynos are on the high side or low

As far as honest and not honest dynos that is a stretch. All Dynojets are dishonest by design. They are an inertia dyno not load sensing measuring actuals with strain gauges or pressure transducers. research this and see for yourself. We are trying to pound this "honest" thing into a very crude device at best. Plus most poor guys out in the middle of the boonies are hard pressed just to find a decent tuner rather than  worry about the happy or not happy numbers. I am taking my personal bike to the most stingy dyno I know of in the pacific northwest and could give a crap about the numbers. I do know that it will be accurately tuned however, yield good mileage and have good driveability.

Dewey,

Whats are the specs and pieces you are using in this build and whose heads are you using this time?      Who is tuning it Lonewolf ?  Latus ?   

[Twolanerider]

.

[Unbalanced]

Too Funny Don(Twolane), but it was a serious question, last build had R&R heads.      

[happyman]

Too Funny Don, but it was a serious question last build had R&R heads.       

what is your opinion of  R&R heads? have not run into anyone running them to be honest.

[Unbalanced]

Happyman,

GMR uses them to do a lot of his heads with some variations of grinds.    They also make a nice raised port head in both the evo and twincam style.   A friend used them recently on a build on a  110 and made some really nice numbers with a woods 400 cam.   If I remember correctly the build was like 10.8 to 1 and made 125 tq and a 123 hp, was said to be super quick too.   Havent really heard too many complaints over the years on Reggies work, rumor even had it that they were the ones doing Tman's c&c work till he bought his own machine.   Definitely one of the shops you should talk to if you are undecided on who should do some work for you.   

[happyman]

Happyman,

GMR uses them to do a lot of his heads with some variations of grinds.    They also make a nice raised port head in both the evo and twincam style.   A friend used them recently on a build on a  110 and made some really nice numbers with a woods 400 cam.   If I remember correctly the build was like 10.8 to 1 and made 125 tq and a 123 hp, was said to be super quick too.   Havent really heard too many complaints over the years on Reggies work, rumor even had it that they were the ones doing Tman's c&c work till he bought his own machine.   Definitely one of the shops you should talk to if you are undecided on who should do some work for you.   

i had a couple differant sets in my hand  done up by  R&R. would have been  thursday i was looking at the heads.  Not sure what  stage would be best for my needs  the 3 or 4? have the SG so its not a light bike. no drag racing just like the tq.The place had several sets just stting there  ready to go. all the compression  a lot of the cams need to perform, is  a bit of a concern. we all know the gas sux now days. don't want to  have to detune  in ordder to run the gas. had that happen once  and is a hassle  to take the motor down and get rid of compression so you can use timeing  to to get all ya can and what ya pay for. Have to think the crank and rod bearings take a hell of pounding with all that presure??  Looked at a few dyno runs with differant configureations all looked pretty nice. Sure am giveing some thought to the headwork for sure. can have a set in my hands in  a coulle hours if need be.

[Unbalanced]

If that is the case shoot for around 185 cranking and 10 to 1 compression.  .030 - .037 squish with proper piston to wall.  As well as a cam that meets your riding style.

[happyman]

If that is the case shoot for around 185 cranking and 10 to 1 compression.  .030 - .037 squish with proper piston to wall.  As well as a cam that meets your riding style.

i cannot recall what cam was recommended  but he puts them on stilts on intake seems like they were over 600 life to start with.
at 185 cccp seems i would take a heck of hit down  low?  had a fried that did a few sets of the SE 259 ranging from 10.78 to others up to right up to 10.9 and were actually not bad to tune  and no ping . i have to think the  574 may be that easy to tweak also?    seems the folks here like the smoothnes of that 574 cam. 

[Unbalanced]

Reggies raised port head does deliver on extra air, much like the mike roland setup although the roland setup has typically blown the numbers out of the box across the board.  95 inchers running 117 numbers  103's doing the same.   its all about combination and tuning.   I dont recall if you have black cases or the granite and if it is granite are black heads going to be an issue cosmetically for you?

What are your magic numbers or specifically what you want different than the 255's?


The receipe for non pinging / easy to start, longevity is the 10 to 1 with about 185 cranking.   The concern with hard hitting cams is they are typically harder to tune (pingiing), beats on the valve train, typically more noisey in the valve train.   If this were a 103, I would have suggested a 570 cam with 10 to 1 compression with good headwork you would make 110-115 hp and 114 torq to 119 torque I havent tried it on a 110.   The 110 has been a troublesome beast it used to be vendors would say ohh 130/130 out of a 110 was a walk in the park....   well now that we have fable sorted out you have to decide what is the right compression and what you are willing to live with.   Honestly if you are going to do headwork, change the cam, change out the lifters do an exhaust and pay for a tune and possibly do the crank and rods, you might just be better off spending the nominally more dollars and get a 120r.  Stock my wifes is making 120 tq and 129 hp with just a throttlebody and pipes  12k later still running and starting beautifully   

The feuling cam seems to be bringing in reasonable enough power with many happy customers.  I am not sure what you can push it to, that would be a question for fueling or one of the porters.   Yes the 255 closes quick, generates a lot of heat with no overlap and cranks high due to the quick closing intake, most cams in that realm are going to be reasonable the same if they have little to no overlap.

In the end if you decide to go with Reggies hardware, I would follow his receipe deviating puts the situation on you and not all combo's work due to air velocity, lifts etc.   

good luck with decision,

[happyman]

Reggies raised port head does deliver on extra air, much like the mike roland setup although the roland setup has typically blown the numbers out of the box across the board.  95 inchers running 117 numbers  103's doing the same.   its all about combination and tuning.   I dont recall if you have black cases or the granite and if it is granite are black heads going to be an issue cosmetically for you?

What are your magic numbers or specifically what you want different than the 255's?


The receipe for non pinging / easy to start, longevity is the 10 to 1 with about 185 cranking.   The concern with hard hitting cams is they are typically harder to tune (pingiing), beats on the valve train, typically more noisey in the valve train.   If this were a 103, I would have suggested a 570 cam with 10 to 1 compression with good headwork you would make 110-115 hp and 114 torq to 119 torque I havent tried it on a 110.   The 110 has been a troublesome beast it used to be vendors would say ohh 130/130 out of a 110 was a walk in the park....   well now that we have fable sorted out you have to decide what is the right compression and what you are willing to live with.   Honestly if you are going to do headwork, change the cam, change out the lifters do an exhaust and pay for a tune and possibly do the crank and rods, you might just be better off spending the nominally more dollars and get a 120r.  Stock my wifes is making 120 tq and 129 hp with just a throttlebody and pipes  12k later still running and starting beautifully   

The feuling cam seems to be bringing in reasonable enough power with many happy customers.  I am not sure what you can push it to, that would be a question for fueling or one of the porters.   Yes the 255 closes quick, generates a lot of heat with no overlap and cranks high due to the quick closing intake, most cams in that realm are going to be reasonable the same if they have little to no overlap.

In the end if you decide to go with Reggies hardware, I would follow his receipe deviating puts the situation on you and not all combo's work due to air velocity, lifts etc.   

good luck with decision,

yes i need to make it clear that i now have a 13 SG 103" not the CVO bike. 
will be much like you say here. not a  high compression build for me. but one that is much lower in ccp, and will be as you say easy on the motor and easy to tune and be smooth and predictable on the street not some cantankerous build.
the 120 is somethig i have been thinking of also. but by the time you get that all done you will have at least  $6500 in it. .

curiouus if that top  end on the 120 is a bit noisy.. seen a couple and that made a bit of noise to be sure.   that big dumb motor should last a long time. has low compression but it still gets pretty hot from wha ti have seen. curious if you witness the  same??

[Unbalanced]

I have dealt several of these 120r's so far, only 1 is mine and in each case once we removed the stock lifters and replaced with S&S the top end was much much quieter.   IMO it is still quieter than a 110 from the factory even without changing the lifters.   

[happyman]

I have dealt several of these 120r's so far, only 1 is mine and in each case once we removed the stock lifters and replaced with S&S the top end was much much quieter.   IMO it is still quieter than a 110 from the factory even without changing the lifters.   

if you can keep out of the throttle  can you roll + 40 mpg??  i know several have been able to do easily.