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[PASN YU]

Can someone provide some tips on removing the lowers?

Thanks in advance. 

[Dryer]

I just took the plastic vents out of mine.  Ten times better

[JCZ]

I have the quick release brackets on the leg fairings.  However, I imagine having a 12 SESG (and an 11) with the speakers in the fairings, it's a different ball game.  I'm thinking there should be a recepticle (plug) in those speaker wires though and the quick release brackets should still work as far as the hardware goes.

[michaelbmenaker]

I have the quick release brackets on the leg fairings.  However, I imagine having a 12 SESG (and an 11) with the speakers in the fairings, it's a different ball game.  I'm thinking there should be a recepticle (plug) in those speaker wires though and the quick release brackets should still work as far as the hardware goes.

The P&A catalog says the fairing lowers speakers will not work with the quick release hardware. I was looking at adding those to my '10. I think the speakers themselves would block access to the hardware and have to be removed before the lowers could come off.

[LarryB]

quick release aint so quick

[michaelbmenaker]

quick release aint so quick

True that!

[PASN YU]

I was hoping I would not have to remove the speaker but it looks like that I may not have a choice. The only way to get to the top mounting bolts is behind them.

[hotroadking]

I'd just unbolt the engine guard

Three Bolts, cover the fender with something padded
just in case the bar slips,  Disconnect the speakers,
remove whole assembly, (jack up bike for room)

Buy another engine guard (quick kit is $100 so might as well
get the new guard)  Get one you like, and presto chango
no fumbling with removing speakers, bolts, guards..

[PASN YU]

That's a damn fine idea. Thanks for the tip.

[NorEaster]

I'd just unbolt the engine guard

Three Bolts, cover the fender with something padded
just in case the bar slips,  Disconnect the speakers,
remove whole assembly, (jack up bike for room)

Buy another engine guard (quick kit is $100 so might as well
get the new guard)  Get one you like, and presto chango
no fumbling with removing speakers, bolts, guards..

This is the route I was planning on going.  I like the looks of the Mustache bar better anyway, so that was the replacement I was going to use for summer riding.  Then put back on the lowers for late fall when it starts to get a little chilly up here in NH.  And then switch back late spring when it starts to warm back up again the following year.

[2 Disturbed]

I just took the plastic vents out of mine.  Ten times better

X2

[SG Racer]

That is a great idea. Thanks for sharing. Sometimes the most simple way is the best.

[2 Disturbed]

I just took the plastic vents out of mine.  Ten times better

Steve at Fulsac actually recommended taking the vents out for additional air flow.

[Fireguy]

Does someone have a picture of the lowers without the vents?

[9 1/2 Beers]

This might help to see what it looks like

[willyB]

I took my lowers off all summer because of the heat. You'll need a star bit, allen wrench, 9/16" socket and a 1/2" socket. Remove the speakers with the star bit. Use the allen wrench and the 9/16" to undo the bottom bolt and the 1/2" to undo the 2 bolts inside of the speaker housing (They are hidden behind black rubber plugs).

Before this trip I put the lowers back on and removed the sliding black deflectors. Should have do this sooner. MUCH better on the heat. They are pretty easy to take off. You'll need a 7/16" socket.

[hdbrad03]

This might help to see what it looks like

All I see is GRAVEL! 

  


    Brad

[michaelbmenaker]

Before this trip I put the lowers back on and removed the sliding black deflectors. Should have do this sooner. MUCH better on the heat. They are pretty easy to take off. You'll need a 7/16" socket.

For me, the benefits of having lowers include blocking rain and cold air. Removing the vents may help in high heat, but not in rain or cold. Do you REALLY see that much difference between no vents and open vents?

[2 Disturbed]

Before this trip I put the lowers back on and removed the sliding black deflectors. Should have do this sooner. MUCH better on the heat. They are pretty easy to take off. You'll need a 7/16" socket.

For me, the benefits of having lowers include blocking rain and cold air. Removing the vents may help in high heat, but not in rain or cold. Do you REALLY see that much difference between no vents and open vents?

Removing the lowers allows a lot more cooling to cool the motor and your leg.  This would help in the hot and dry climate areas.  Since you are from Colorado, I dont think I would remove them. 

PS:  Removal of the vents are easy, so it may be a consideration to remove them during the summer only.

[FAST380]

I have my vents removed now and it does make a big difference. when the vents are open they do not retract 100% into the lower fairing, I have thought about cutting the vent door a little to make them open 100% but still close 75%. Somebody that has the vent doors in still, can you post an up close picture with the vent open as far as it will go? I am thinking about cutting them where the slot is in them already.

[FAST380]

just took a look, the vent doors are only $13.99 MSRP each, may play with it.

[xsdbs]

I just took the plastic vents out of mine.  Ten times better

I tried to take the plastic vent doors out from my 2012 street glide.
I unbolted the 7/16 nut and pulled out the bolt, but the "guide pin" that fits into the slot in the top of the vent door is giving me trouble.
There's not enough clearance between the front of the pin and the inside of the lower to allow the vent to "slip off".
I don't want to force/break anything, what am I missing?
Thanks!

[SilveRT8]

I tried to take the plastic vent doors out from my 2012 street glide.
I unbolted the 7/16 nut and pulled out the bolt, but the "guide pin" that fits into the slot in the top of the vent door is giving me trouble.
There's not enough clearance between the front of the pin and the inside of the lower to allow the vent to "slip off".
I don't want to force/break anything, what am I missing?
Thanks!

My friend cut the top of the slot in the middle part so the pin could slide out when the vent door is in the middle position.

[TIF2]

I tried to take the plastic vent doors out from my 2012 street glide.
I unbolted the 7/16 nut and pulled out the bolt, but the "guide pin" that fits into the slot in the top of the vent door is giving me trouble.
There's not enough clearance between the front of the pin and the inside of the lower to allow the vent to "slip off".
I don't want to force/break anything, what am I missing?
Thanks!

You can try and "pop" them out but you may break them.
To remove them "correctly" you need to:

1. Remove speakers
2. Remove two (2) 7/16" nuts that hold the caps on (per lower)
3. Remove the speaker boxes (or glove boxes on non-CVO Street Glides). These are held on with three (3) torx bolts per box. Access is available once the caps are removed (you'll need to look for them). You don't need to remove the bolts completely, just loosen them enough so that the speaker (glove) boxes can be moved away from the lower fairing enough to let the vent slot come off. They are a pain in the AZZ to get started if they are removed so try not to remove them completely.
4. Re-assemble the above.

This image may help --->  http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies//showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=hdmc&A=873&B=46

Not hard per se, mostly just a pain in in the butt.
I agree though, I removed my vents long ago and don't miss them one bit.

Hope this helps ...

[michaelbmenaker]

I removed my vents long ago and don't miss them one bit.


I would most surely miss mine in the rain...