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[jayray00SERG]

Seat of the pants dyno. You can feel when it needs to drop a gear. Keep the revs up!

[Half_Crazy]

True "lugging" of the engine is not necessarily defined strictly by rpm, btw.  It's more of a function of load versus rpm, as in heavy load at low rpm.  Cruising normally down a flat road at 1800 rpm is not lugging.  Doing so and then whacking the throttle open without downshifting to an appropriate gear, now that's lugging.

'bear, I understand being gun shy after all you've been through, but don't let it ruin your enjoyment of the ride.  Your problems weren't caused by your choice of oils, and they weren't caused by the way you ride.  They were caused by the folks at H-D who cheapened the crap out of the product and decided to accept poor quality from themselves and their vendors.  And now they want to get into your head and make you think it was all your fault.  Don't fall for it.

 

[StevesCVO]

I don't quite understand babying these things. I've built industrial engines for over 20 yrs and we just fire them up, check for oil pressure and leaks, then run them up to speed and throw a full load on them with a load bank. They'll run 4-8 hrs under full load because if you don't the cylinders glaze and the rings won't seat. This info comes from the ring manufacturers and they say not to idle them more than 2-3 minutes before loading the engine. Last 6 bikes I've owned I just ride them like i stole them. No mechanical failures and none have used any oil. JMO and YMMV

[Twolanerider]

Being that I am on my 3rd stock motor I am alittle gun shy of operating it without it crapping out. This time my local dealer did something different but wont tell me and this motor is running extremly well. I'm sure they will tell me that being that it has Syn 3 in it that is why it broke in correctly and is running the way it is suppose to. Oh well I will enjoy it while I can!!

That's unacceptable.  It's your bike.  You paid for it.  And, more importantly, it's your ass on the line everytime you throw a leg over.  No way any shop ever gets to do something and not tell you what they did.

[HD Street Performance]

Hate to say it but your break in is over. Depending on the hone pattern and grit stone or diamond the cylinders were finished with you either have a sealed motor or one that will be plagued with blowby, loss of power and pinging due to oil in the burn.
Personally I do not baby them, but that said I do not take them up to high Rs either, just load and unload below 3,500. After 30 miles with a 280 / 400 stone finish they are done, broke in good leak numbers and no oil consumption of oil out the breathers. After an oil and filter change ride normal.

[Dr.D]

There are some great posts on here and I think GRC/Jerry is very honest, open and frankly to the point. Running an engine does not hurt it. Leaving it sit forever or running out of oil is bad.

I have been on a FLHRC for two years and riding without a thachometer doing fine feeling and hearing the bike. I was raised on dirt bikes so we learned to ride the bike according to how it performed. Now after getting the SEDFB I have been reading the tach and learning what the numbers mean. Just yesterday I felt that on level road with no acceleration needs 2300-2500 seamed to be the perfect sound and vibration. Holding at 3000 in third or fourth seemed high and ready to get it on or shift. Anything below 2000 is not comfortable for the bike and lugging.

Three motors? They were chit right out of the crate and you should be damn glad you blowed the bastards up before HD could wiggle out of the warranty. A bike that can't be rode like the owner enjoys ain't worth havin.(All misspellings intended to reflect red-neck attitude).

[HOGMIKE]

There are some great posts on here and I think GRC/Jerry is very honest, open and frankly to the point. Running an engine does not hurt it. Leaving it sit forever or running out of oil is bad.

I have been on a FLHRC for two years and riding without a thachometer doing fine feeling and hearing the bike. I was raised on dirt bikes so we learned to ride the bike according to how it performed. Now after getting the SEDFB I have been reading the tach and learning what the numbers mean. Just yesterday I felt that on level road with no acceleration needs 2300-2500 seamed to be the perfect sound and vibration. Holding at 3000 in third or fourth seemed high and ready to get it on or shift. Anything below 2000 is not comfortable for the bike and lugging.

Three motors? They were chit right out of the crate and you should be damn glad you blowed the bastards up before HD could wiggle out of the warranty. A bike that can't be rode like the owner enjoys ain't worth havin.(All misspellings intended to reflect red-neck attitude).

x2
Thank GOD I'm not from the South!!
Oh, wait! I guess I am!

[Dr.D]

x2
Thank GOD I'm not from the South!!
Oh, wait! I guess I am!

I enjoy hamming it up on occasion and acting dumb is fun. I'm trying to learn a bit hangin round ya'll.

[Harley_Charley]

       Ahhhhhhhhhhh Jerry, so good to sit and read a post of this quality from you again. You had a run where I thought you were giving up on being the best technical poster on cvoharley.com. It's great to see the real Jerry back 

B B

Jerry Rules!

[Occam]

DESERTBEAR54, you going to bike week?
Would be nice to get together and swap stories about these dealerships in the valley.
I'm waiting for mine to grenade too; I was reasonable during break-in, kept all the recommended intervals, and yet my rockerboxes sound like a freakin' teletype.
FWIW, I keep above 2000 at all times, and shift around 3300 or so, unless having extra fun. It's a Dyna after all, a rider's bike.
And I agree with the others man; the dealership should tell you precisely what they've done to your property. Otherwise, you've abdicated ownership and many rights you should keep.

This CVO stuff is the best of the best, but still we have these inconsistencies in quality and these unpleasant sounds.
Still fun as hell though...   

[willyB]

Great Post!

I only have about 1500 miles down on my 2011 110 SE and I've been questioning myself where these things like/should run. Maybe it's because I now have a tach, but when I had my 2003 88" Deuce with SS510G cams I never thougth twice about the RPM. I just "felt" how the machine was running and adjusted my gear or speed.

After reading this I think I was erroring on the side of a lower rpm range.

I've got to keep remembering "Ride it like you stole it".

Thanks again, maybe I'll quit worrying about the rpm all the time and just enjoy the ride.

[Half_Crazy]

I've been questioning myself where these things like/should run.

Someplace between 2000 RPM and the rev limiter is fine. 

[Mr. Warlock]

It'll be a cold day in he!! before I worry about any certain rpm range and I would never leave a dealership without a full knowledge of what they had done, especially with your situation. I would be in everyone face there and I WOULD know before I left, that is just plain out BS!!! Get back there and demand to know.





Trying to remove this newbie tatoo, lol

[timtoolman]

If you havent already done so change  to a 30 tooth front pulley  thennnn  talk about rpm's 

[Fullsac Performance]

Use of the tach is over rated. Its best to keep your eyes on the road for safety.

A good rev limiter will always let you know when to engage the next gear.

Turn the volume up and listen as I calmly shift in to second as prompted by rev limiter engagement.



SG
Fullsac