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[Puzzled]

The added space we gained by moving the tour pack back 2".

[Puzzled]

With the 21" front wheel on, smoked windshield and new style turn signals

[Puzzled]

From the front. At this point we were only a couple of hours from being totally finished.

[Puzzled]

From the back with the filler strips painted and installed. We ended up lowering the bags about 1" at the back in order to get them to sit level. This messed with our fender and bag alignment but there wasn't anything we could do short of drilling new holes in the fender. By my best guess with the fender sitting slightly higher over the wheel this will allow him to lower the bike farther with air. A standard Bagger makes fender to tire contact at around 10 1/8". I believe this bike will be able to go to 9" without hitting.

[Puzzled]

All finished up (for the most part).

[Puzzled]

The chrome lowers are here however we wanted to look into loosing the air front end and going totally cartridge style first.

[Puzzled]

We were able to test ride the bike some before the snow fell. Looking at the gazillion bikes as I did in Daytona I suggested bending up a bracket to go inside of the fender and than out to the bag brackets. This would tie the rear of the bike all together and keep the bags from vibrating loose.

[Puzzled]

The front fender did not need any modifying to accept the 21" wheel. OK check that, the excess bolt length from the grandpa lights had to be trimmed off. It has been said that the elongation of the front fender holes were needed in order to clear the tire. We are anxious to see if we need to do this as the tire may grow at speed (which I doubt).

[Puzzled]

Having never really torn into a bagger it was a learning experience. If I had to do it again I could cut hours off of the original install time. I think for us it was more of looking at a better way to do things than what was suggested. With a little bit of work on a stock arm and/or some more detailed measuring I think a 180 is a better choice for far less money. Performance Machine is selling a 180 kit but they are utilizing a chain as opposed to a belt. Combine that with how this kit moved the motor 3/8" of an inch and I believe a 180 will go on with a belt in a stock(ish) arm. By stock(ish) I mean that you'll have to do a small amount of fab work to the arm. You'll need to remove 3/8" from one side and add it to the other. Fab up a new front mount and your good to go.

[Ceej]

Great work, and fabulous wrench report! What is that tour pack mount that your using? That is exactly what I'd love to accomplish - to not have to have the extra docking brackets sticking out after I cleaned up the look of the back fender Am I correct in assuming you are using the stock backrest rear quick release thingy? Having done this how do you feel now about the nut thingy vs. tapping?

[Puzzled]

1 Great work, and fabulous wrench report!
2 What is that tour pack mount that your using? 
3 Am I correct in assuming you are using the stock backrest rear quick release thingy?
4 Having done this how do you feel now about the nut thingy vs. tapping?

1 Thank you.
2 That is a FBI detachable tour pack mount and docking hardware.
3 No I'm not.
4 I've always been a fan of a Nut-sert. I felt the metal didn't lend itself to enough material for tapping.