Topic: Flush Mount Kuryakyn Licence Plate Frame (Read 24526 times)

GregKhougaz · « **on:** June 08, 2009, 11:54:10 AM »

This reminds me of Morse and Tesla. Figured this out this weekend. Came to the office to see if someone else had too. Sure enough, JP from St. Louis posted first here: http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34963.msg591818#msg591818 It's so good an idea, I'm posting separately:

Some of us drilled the fender to install the Kuryakyn #9182 Licence Plate frame. WS figured he could drill the mounting bracket to save the fender. This weekend, I helped a friend mount his and when holding it up to the bike, he says, "Why use the bracket at all?" So we drilled the fender to match the frame itself. This way the frame is the template. We used the four original flat hex fasteners with loctite and locking acorn nuts. This procedure makes the frame ALMOST flush. We used duct tape on the back of the plate to avoid scratching the fender. Here's some photos for comparison:

Flush:

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #1 on:** June 08, 2009, 11:54:49 AM »

Fluch looking down:

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #2 on:** June 08, 2009, 11:55:50 AM »

Mine floating. Not bad but... I will probably have to redo...

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #3 on:** June 08, 2009, 11:56:32 AM »

Mine, floating looking down:

LarryB · « **Reply #4 on:** June 09, 2009, 07:22:02 AM »

ok Greg, I've got mine setup like yours. If you re-do yours please take some pics on the process. I've been thinkin about this for awhile.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #5 on:** November 13, 2009, 06:29:15 PM »

Quote from: GregKhougaz on June 08, 2009, 11:54:10 AM

This reminds me of Morse and Tesla. Figured this out this weekend. Came to the office to see if someone else had too. Sure enough, JP from St. Louis posted first here: http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34963.msg591818#msg591818 It's so good an idea, I'm posting separately:

Some of us drilled the fender to install the Kuryakyn #9182 Licence Plate frame. WS figured he could drill the mounting bracket to save the fender. This weekend, I helped a friend mount his and when holding it up to the bike, he says, "Why use the bracket at all?" So we drilled the fender to match the frame itself. This way the frame is the template. We used the four original flat hex fasteners with loctite and locking acorn nuts. This procedure makes the frame ALMOST flush. We used duct tape on the back of the plate to avoid scratching the fender. Here's some photos for comparison:

Flush:

OK so here I sit ready to drill a hole in my new bike and I admit I'm a little squeamish!!!!!!

Covered the fender with masking tape and held up the bracket and frame. Bracket stands off farther than I like. However when I hold the frame to the fender it is not formed to the radius of the fender?

Did you have to reshape the frame or is the fender strong enough not to deform when you tighten the 4 bolts on the frame?

Sitting here and waiting for an epiphany HELP!!

LarryB · « **Reply #6 on:** November 14, 2009, 07:34:15 AM »

the curve on the frame matches the curve on my SERG fender? be careful not to drill into the tire

HDBaggerDave · « **Reply #7 on:** November 14, 2009, 06:57:07 PM »

Yep, that's better. You're saying the original screws were long enough to find the nut?

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #8 on:** November 14, 2009, 07:20:34 PM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on November 13, 2009, 06:29:15 PM

OK so here I sit ready to drill a hole in my new bike and I admit I'm a little squeamish!!!!!!

Covered the fender with masking tape and held up the bracket and frame. Bracket stands off farther than I like. However when I hold the frame to the fender it is not formed to the radius of the fender?

Did you have to reshape the frame or is the fender strong enough not to deform when you tighten the 4 bolts on the frame?
Sitting here and waiting for an epiphany HELP!!

I never got around to drilling my fender and left the plate "floating." (Call me chicken too.) The licence plate frames we used to mount flush matched the fender pretty well. You can see a slight gap at the left and right edges. Careful not to tighten the screws too tight. Seems that could damage either the fender or frame. Cover the back of the licence plate itself with something like duct tape to you dont have metal to metal on the paint.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #9 on:** November 14, 2009, 07:22:46 PM »

Well I went with the backing plate and while it is better than the factory mount it stands out further than I like.

Looks like its back to the drawing board and a few more holes!!

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #10 on:** November 14, 2009, 07:33:45 PM »

Quote from: GregKhougaz on November 14, 2009, 07:20:34 PM

I never got around to drilling my fender and left the plate "floating." (Call me chicken too.) The licence plate frames we used to mount flush matched the fender pretty well. You can see a slight gap at the left and right edges. Careful not to tighten the screws too tight. Seems that could damage either the fender or frame. Cover the back of the licence plate itself with something like duct tape to you don't have metal to metal on the paint.

I have a sheet of rubberized cork gasket material I intent to use as backing material. So its back to the drawing board. The frame seemed to have about a 1/8" gap on both sides within approx 2" of the edges.

Also drilling through the thick steel support ate a couple drill bits (tuff stuff)

Biggest issue is how to get it perfectly level with all those radius edges?

From the side you can see how it stands off the fender. Also could not find the right body plug for the 9/16" original hole? Tried Ace Hardware and Napa so far?

LarryB · « **Reply #11 on:** November 15, 2009, 07:50:43 AM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on November 14, 2009, 07:33:45 PM

I have a sheet of rubberized cork gasket material I intent to use as backing material. So its back to the drawing board. The frame seemed to have about a 1/8" gap on both sides within approx 2" of the edges.

Also drilling through the thick steel support ate a couple drill bits (tuff stuff)

Biggest issue is how to get it perfectly level with all those radius edges?

From the side you can see how it stands off the fender. Also could not find the right body plug for the 9/16" original hole? Tried Ace Hardware and Napa so far?

ya gotta tell me, how do you like the boom cans

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #12 on:** November 17, 2009, 08:32:24 PM »

OK back to the drawing board, Disassembled the plate frame today and discarded the backing plate.

Got out the Gasket material and made backing sheet for the plate frame. Drilled 4 more holes in the fender. (It was easier this time emotionally speaking)

Placed the plate in the frame added the cork backing material and installed the plate frame to the fender.

Fits like a glove!!

Very happy with it now

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2009, 08:33:22 PM »

view from up top!!!

LC110 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 17, 2009, 09:51:16 PM »

Looks like a first class job Wheelsnkeels

I also know that, I am not really going to drill this feeling

SID8D2 · « **Reply #15 on:** November 17, 2009, 10:13:57 PM »

Got my Kuryakyn Plate frame in route. Hope to have it before the weekend. Hate to pop holes in the fender but, what cha gonna do

Its all about the bike, form, fit and function

LarryB · « **Reply #16 on:** November 18, 2009, 08:36:20 AM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on November 17, 2009, 08:32:24 PM

OK back to the drawing board, Disassembled the plate frame today and discarded the backing plate.

Got out the Gasket material and made backing sheet for the plate frame. Drilled 4 more holes in the fender. (It was easier this time emotionally speaking)

Placed the plate in the frame added the cork backing material and installed the plate frame to the fender.

Fits like a glove!!

Very happy with it now

did you use the Kury screws and add nuts on the inside?

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #17 on:** November 18, 2009, 09:52:31 AM »

I used the screws that were for originally intended for attaching the backing plate in the top 2 locations. Had to run to Ace for some stainless 1/2" longer on the bottom 2.

There is a curved 1/8" thick steel support behind the fender that had to be drilled that required the added length.

The small counter sunk screws for the frame were insufficient. The gasket material fills any voids extremely well.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #18 on:** November 18, 2009, 09:54:49 AM »

Quote from: SID8D2 on November 17, 2009, 10:13:57 PM

Got my Kuryakyn Plate frame in route. Hope to have it before the weekend. Hate to pop holes in the fender but, what cha gonna do Its all about the bike, form, fit and function

Amen, Hope to get her on the road Friday when the Sun is supposedly going to make an appearance?

CVOStreetglide · « **Reply #19 on:** November 18, 2009, 12:34:31 PM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on November 18, 2009, 09:54:49 AM

Amen, Hope to get her on the road Friday when the Sun is supposedly going to make an appearance?

MORE GOOD STUFF FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION!!!

In my case, I drilled the fender from the get go....after getting over the same agony that most here experienced.

I used blue painters tape to be sure that eveything was straight and centered before drilling AND I put a small piece of 2x4 behind the fender just in case....

Also, FWIW: I "repinned" the Kury tag to the stock connector.

Here's the part numbers in case you want to do the same:

Socket Housing p/n 74112-98Bk $2.99
(2) Pins p/n 74191-98 $1.00ea

That way the stock light can remain in tact and be reinstalled very quickly.

I made sure the "Kury" tag wire was cut longer so that I could relocate it to the side of the inner fender near the connector for the right turn light and the harness as opposed to the stock location.

I used longer chrome recessed head bolts in the top two locations and the stock shorter ones supplied with the light in the lower location.

I also purchased 2 thinner self locking nylon nuts for the lower holes so they could slide between the thick inner fender bracket and the fender and be tightened up easily.
That way no drilling required except for the fender holes.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:

1. I am considering inserting small electrical grommets in the 4 holes that I drilled. They would protect the edges of the drilled holes in the fender, provide a slieve for the bolts to go through and cushion the tag away from the fender.

2. I am looking for a thin rubber adhesive backed cushon like many of the small floor jacks have. I think it would be nice to protect the fender, keep the scratches away and be weather proof.

3. I am considering sliding a insulator sleeve up the wire to the tag bracket to protect the connections from the tag LED from abrasions.

I hope this additional information helps in your project.

jettjocky · « **Reply #20 on:** November 19, 2009, 02:40:03 PM »

Really like that look over using the bracket (like I did) but really for me, don't want to DRILL no fender.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #21 on:** November 19, 2009, 05:17:32 PM »

Quote from: CVOStreetglide on November 18, 2009, 12:34:31 PM

MORE GOOD STUFF FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION!!!

In my case, I drilled the fender from the get go....after getting over the same agony that most here experienced.

I used blue painters tape to be sure that everything was straight and centered before drilling AND I put a small piece of 2x4 behind the fender just in case....

Also, FWIW: I "repinned" the Kury tag to the stock connector.

Here's the part numbers in case you want to do the same:

Socket Housing p/n 74112-98Bk $2.99
(2) Pins p/n 74191-98 $1.00ea

That way the stock light can remain in tact and be reinstalled very quickly.

I made sure the "Kury" tag wire was cut longer so that I could relocate it to the side of the inner fender near the connector for the right turn light and the harness as opposed to the stock location.

I used longer chrome recessed head bolts in the top two locations and the stock shorter ones supplied with the light in the lower location.

I also purchased 2 thinner self locking nylon nuts for the lower holes so they could slide between the thick inner fender bracket and the fender and be tightened up easily.
That way no drilling required except for the fender holes.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:

1. I am considering inserting small electrical grommets in the 4 holes that I drilled. They would protect the edges of the drilled holes in the fender, provide a sleeve for the bolts to go through and cushion the tag away from the fender.

2. I am looking for a thin rubber adhesive backed cushion like many of the small floor jacks have. I think it would be nice to protect the fender, keep the scratches away and be weather proof.

3. I am considering sliding a insulator sleeve up the wire to the tag bracket to protect the connections from the tag LED from abrasions.

I hope this additional information helps in your project.

1 I think this would pool water and actually cause rust?

2 you can buy the sheet cork gasket material at NAPA (probably most auto parts too) The gasket material seals the entire back of the plate and protects the fender underneath. Cut one rectangle to the entire size of the frame. It also fills all the gaps

3 You also could used double sided adhesive tape like carpet tape. leave the backing on one side and this will provide a cushion?

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #22 on:** November 19, 2009, 05:36:35 PM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on November 19, 2009, 05:10:58 PM

Looks like you'll be remaining stock? You have to drill the fender to use the bracket too!

Sorry but not true. You can drill the backplate / bracket to match the fender. (I did.)

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #23 on:** November 19, 2009, 05:41:03 PM »

Quote from: GregKhougaz on November 19, 2009, 05:36:35 PM

Sorry but not true. You can drill the backplate / bracket to match the fender. (I did.)

Any picture's I cannot picture how that would work? I get drilling the plate mounting bracket to use an existing hole. However as it stands off the fender so far this would seem to necessitate spacers of some kind?

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #24 on:** November 19, 2009, 06:03:54 PM »

Quote from: Wheelsnkeels on November 19, 2009, 05:41:03 PM

Any picture's I cannot picture how that would work? I get drilling the plate mounting bracket to use an existing hole. However as it stands off the fender so far this would seem to necessitate spacers of some kind?

Try looking here for a description of how we did it. Re: SERG AND CVO: VERY GOOD TO ME! NEXT? See reply #'s 39 on. Maybe that will help.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #25 on:** November 19, 2009, 06:19:28 PM »

Quote from: GregKhougaz on November 19, 2009, 06:03:54 PM

Try looking here for a description of how we did it. Re: SERG AND CVO: VERY GOOD TO ME! NEXT? See reply #'s 39 on. Maybe that will help.

Looks good but I was hoping for a look at the modified backing plate? Those pictures actually are the ones that convinced me to drill my fender!
From the angle they are shot it looks like the bracket wasn't used. Pictures dont always imply the truth.

Anyway I am happy with the result so I guess thats all that really matters but I stand corrected on the available mounting options!

motor1 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 20, 2009, 05:51:02 PM »

OK, been looking at this post, plus others for new plate, ( want to add one) but I too am bothered by drilling the fender. At the risk of sounding arrogant, I know I am capable, just concerned with the permanency of the bracket. Once I have the holes drilled it seems there is no going back. Ok I have said it, now have at me!
Thanks,

William

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #27 on:** November 20, 2009, 05:58:13 PM »

Quote from: motor1 on November 20, 2009, 05:51:02 PM

OK, been looking at this post, plus others for new plate, ( want to add one) but I too am bothered by drilling the fender. At the risk of sounding arrogant, I know I am capable, just concerned with the permanency of the bracket. Once I have the holes drilled it seems there is no going back. Ok I have said it, now have at me!
Thanks,

William

Well apparently if you drill the bracket you can use the stock holes. So totally reversable. Also if you drill the fender and use the bracket the original will cover the holes if you chose to re install it. Reversible

If you drill the 4 holes and mount the frame to the fender you will need to fill and paint to go back!

Here is a picture with the bracket installed before I chose to go all out and mount just the frame. This stands off the fender about an inch and would have been completely covered by the factory assy if reversed

SID8D2 · « **Reply #28 on:** November 20, 2009, 06:57:38 PM »

What if you took the backing plate and milled out the center section so it was just a flat radius on the back side. Then mounted that to your finder and then you could mount the frame to backing plate.
Just a thought. To late for me, I drilled my fender last nt for the frame to mount to the fender.

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #29 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:23:25 AM »

I have been looking at this thread for installing the tag frame, and I did not care for having the frame bolted tight against the fender. I tried putting some type of molding around the frame made from a 3-light Pan head dash molding, but it was too bulky. I then found that I could trim down an '09 dash molding to fit. About all that is needed is to cut one side and install. The molding is about 2 3/8" too short, so two pieces will be required. Put the filler on the bottom. Just a kiss with a heat gun will make the rubber very pliable.

Bill in Stone Mountain

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #30 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:25:22 AM »

molding

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #31 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:26:06 AM »

molding

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #32 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:26:41 AM »

molding

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #33 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:27:50 AM »

molding

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #34 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:28:49 AM »

molding

Bill Golightly · « **Reply #35 on:** November 22, 2009, 09:29:41 AM »

molding

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #36 on:** November 22, 2009, 11:52:11 AM »

nice

Fired00d · « **Reply #37 on:** November 22, 2009, 12:49:36 PM »

Quote from: Bill Golightly on November 22, 2009, 09:29:41 AM

molding

Very nice and removes the worry of damaging the paint.

Ride Safe,
Fired00d

DICKW · « **Reply #38 on:** November 22, 2009, 03:25:56 PM »

Very Clean.......Good job with that.

SID8D2 · « **Reply #39 on:** November 22, 2009, 06:23:41 PM »

GoLightly;
Thanks for the part number. I had the same idea but hadn't come up with anything useable. You the man

LarryB · « **Reply #40 on:** November 23, 2009, 07:25:47 AM »

Quote from: Bill Golightly on November 22, 2009, 09:29:41 AM

molding

aha, that's the missing ingredient. I got some chrome molding that will work great in this application. and when doesn't chrome work well

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #41 on:** November 23, 2009, 02:46:35 PM »

Good Job!

JP · « **Reply #42 on:** November 23, 2009, 06:05:23 PM »

Quote from: Fired00d on November 22, 2009, 12:49:36 PM

Very nice and removes the worry of damaging the paint.

Ride Safe,
Fired00d

Not a good look imho. (sorry)

Fired00d · « **Reply #43 on:** November 23, 2009, 06:10:29 PM »

Quote from: JP on November 23, 2009, 06:05:23 PM

Not a good look imho. (sorry)

No need to be sorry... everyone has their own opinion.

Heck... bike doesn't belong to either of us, only one it has to make happy is the owner.

Ride Safe,
Fired00d

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #44 on:** November 23, 2009, 08:00:39 PM »

Quote from: JP on November 23, 2009, 06:05:23 PM

Not a good look imho. (sorry)

Anything beats the Factory attempt!

I am going to us the LED from the factory taillight to my tour Pak

JP · « **Reply #45 on:** November 24, 2009, 02:53:26 AM »

Plate and frame is not touching fender. Floating on four rubber grommets (I got at home depot ) behind the frame on the four mounting bolts.

LarryB · « **Reply #46 on:** November 24, 2009, 06:36:50 AM »

anyone else have the gap at the edges like JP does. I wonder if the molding, chrome or note, would remove that

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #47 on:** November 24, 2009, 06:41:54 AM »

I placed Sheet gasket material behind the entire plate it filled the gap and protected the paint at the same time.

None of the chrome covered in molding?

JP · « **Reply #48 on:** November 24, 2009, 09:20:46 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on November 24, 2009, 06:36:50 AM

anyone else have the gap at the edges like JP does. I wonder if the molding, chrome or note, would remove that

Larry, did you just take a poke at me ? LOL

CVOStreetglide · « **Reply #49 on:** November 24, 2009, 01:03:10 PM »

Quote from: LarryB on November 24, 2009, 06:36:50 AM

anyone else have the gap at the edges like JP does. I wonder if the molding, chrome or note, would remove that

Larry:

I think all of them would have the gap unless you used the screws to gently bend/snug the tag frame to the fender. This is what I did and now there are no gaps top, bottom or side to side.

LarryB · « **Reply #50 on:** November 25, 2009, 08:27:14 AM »

Quote from: CVOStreetglide on November 24, 2009, 01:03:10 PM

Larry:

I think all of them would have the gap unless you used the screws to gently bend/snug the tag frame to the fender. This is what I did and now there are no gaps top, bottom or side to side.

Gave it a bit of torque, did ya?

LarryB · « **Reply #51 on:** November 25, 2009, 08:29:03 AM »

Quote from: JP on November 24, 2009, 09:20:46 AM

Larry, did you just take a poke at me ? LOL

do you feel poked? if so, then yes

, if not, then no.

it does look good, as soon as I get time i will do this, but many other things to do first.

DICKW · « **Reply #52 on:** November 25, 2009, 10:51:39 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on November 25, 2009, 08:29:03 AM

as soon as I get time i will do this, but many other things to do first.

That is soooo unlike you Larry to hold off like that.....

Waiting on a Pic of yours.

LarryB · « **Reply #53 on:** November 25, 2009, 11:07:37 AM »

I hear ya Dick, but i got customers bikes that I've got to get out, along with several TP's and Lower fairings. the international trade keeps me hoping

DICKW · « **Reply #54 on:** November 25, 2009, 11:30:03 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on November 25, 2009, 11:07:37 AM

I hear ya Dick, but i got customers bikes that I've got to get out, along with several TP's and Lower fairings. the international trade keeps me hoping

Small businesses must/will survive...... Priorities my friend.... keep them in check.

bobroadglide · « **Reply #55 on:** November 25, 2009, 03:12:38 PM »

My local dealer did not have that moulding, but, Raymond the Parts Manager for Space Coast HD, found something that I think will be better. P/N 58311-96, Extrusion, Inner Fairing. This is a rubber channel, a little marrower, and long enough to cover the frame without having to use two pieces, in fact, I have an extra six inches. The channel is very narrow, so it will be difficult inserting the sealant, but I have some plastic syringes with a small nozzle. I am also thinking of tapping the two lower holes where the hole goes through the fender and the bracing on the fender. I'll let you know how it goes after I drill.

LarryB · « **Reply #56 on:** November 26, 2009, 08:40:47 AM »

they sell this in chrome at Oriellys and on ebay under chrome fairing trim

CVOStreetglide · « **Reply #57 on:** November 26, 2009, 02:18:43 PM »

Quote from: LarryB on November 25, 2009, 08:27:14 AM

Gave it a bit of torque, did ya?

Just a little.

Once it is done the bracket fits correctly every time.

BTW the lower nuts I used to avoid drilling the inner fender bracket are the same thickness as the jam nuts you use on exhausts. Just insert a nut in a end wrench and slid it up to the rear of the hole and screwed the bolt in with a washer spacer of course on the inside.

SID8D2 · « **Reply #58 on:** November 28, 2009, 06:11:50 PM »

Ok, just to put my efforts into the posting, Drilled the fender, reused HD light plug and inner fender cover. 1" screws on top, 3/4" screws on bottom with shorty hex lock nuts, chrome fender washers under all 4 nuts. Outside I used a molding that was originally for a bat wing fairing (between inner/outer). Had to sand the edge of the plate so it would fit with a little wiggle room, cut a pc of rubber from a auto floormat to use as a plate backer and used 4 rubber fender washers on the bolts to insure paint protection. Snugged the bolts down evenly to pull it tight up against the fender and screwed around with it for hrs trying to get it straight, may have to wiggle it around a little bit more when I can get it outside and can stand back further for a better view.

SID8D2 · « **Reply #59 on:** November 28, 2009, 06:12:47 PM »

And one from the top.....

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #60 on:** November 28, 2009, 06:26:50 PM »

Looks Good!
We'll have to get together sometime, we frequent most of the ports from ST Joe to Ludington most of the summer. Frequently in South Haven Saugatuck and Grand Haven.

SID8D2 · « **Reply #61 on:** November 28, 2009, 08:00:53 PM »

Wheelsnkeels; Sure, theres some nice spots along the Lake Mich waterfront. I enjoy getting north of Muskegon and following the scenic route along Lake Mich all the way up to Traverse City and hitting the Casino at night. If your up for a ride, from there the bridge isn't to far away an up into the UP for some riding around and meeting the locals. Or shoot west into WI and stop into Hurley (old mining town) meet the locals. Head south, jump on one of the ferry's to get back into Mich. Or just Hammer home depending on the time and weather.

I also enjoy getting on 421 out of Mich and following it thru IN to as I head to Lexington.

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #62 on:** November 28, 2009, 09:29:57 PM »

Sounds like we've rolled a lot of the same Ground. Love the coast rods from Muskegon to the Bridge we took 9 days this summer and did the HD Dealer tour. Hit all the stops and layed over in Leland a couple days for fun.

Actually bee in Hurley and all the way North to Copper Harbor. Then through Wisconsin and Illinois back to Base.

All good riding with the exception of the Chicago traffic. We'll need to hook up

catahoula58 · « **Reply #63 on:** February 08, 2010, 09:26:09 PM »

Yippie! I got mine installed this past weekend. Did not look back and drilled the fender and wah la installed and looking good!

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #64 on:** February 09, 2010, 12:05:30 PM »

Looks good, catahoula58! So do the side bag lights and chrome trim.

Ron Hawkins · « **Reply #65 on:** February 09, 2010, 01:20:16 PM »

Cat, way to go. Still on my winter list !!

Ron in ICT

catahoula58 · « **Reply #66 on:** February 09, 2010, 02:55:47 PM »

Quote from: GregKhougaz on February 09, 2010, 12:05:30 PM

Looks good, catahoula58! So do the side bag lights and chrome trim.

Thanks, here is a side shot of the bags and spoilers and lid chrome.

catahoula58 · « **Reply #67 on:** February 09, 2010, 02:58:21 PM »

:orange:Here is a night shot from behind showing the lights all lit up!

CVOStreetglide · « **Reply #68 on:** February 09, 2010, 03:05:11 PM »

Until I saw this picture I didn't realize how little light shines on the tag at night. I am wondering if the outside leds need to be realigned. I would hate to get stopped because the tag wasn't legible at night.

Maybe a PM to Kurakyn is in order......

Regards

catahoula58 · « **Reply #69 on:** February 09, 2010, 03:24:02 PM »

The law only states to have a light on the plate. I have seen a many a vehicle and bikes with dim light tags and the police do nothing. Now the ones that have no light will get the tickets!

Wheelsnkeels · « **Reply #70 on:** February 09, 2010, 05:09:11 PM »

Good job! Looks great!

Author Topic: Flush Mount Kuryakyn Licence Plate Frame (Read 24526 times)