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[SID8D2]

Got my Kuryakyn Plate frame in route. Hope to have it before the weekend. Hate to pop holes in the fender but, what cha gonna do Its all about the bike, form, fit and function

[LarryB]

OK back to the drawing board, Disassembled the plate frame today and discarded the backing plate.

Got out the Gasket material and made backing sheet for the plate frame. Drilled 4 more holes in the fender. (It was easier this time emotionally speaking)

Placed the plate in the frame added the cork backing material and installed the plate frame to the fender.

Fits like a glove!!

Very happy with it now 

did you use the Kury screws and add nuts on the inside?

[Wheelsnkeels]

I used the screws that were for originally intended for attaching the backing plate in the top 2 locations. Had to run to Ace for some stainless 1/2" longer on the bottom 2.

There is a curved 1/8" thick steel support behind the fender that had to be drilled that required the added length.

The small counter sunk screws for the frame were insufficient. The gasket material fills any voids extremely well.

[Wheelsnkeels]

Got my Kuryakyn Plate frame in route. Hope to have it before the weekend. Hate to pop holes in the fender but, what cha gonna do Its all about the bike, form, fit and function

Amen, Hope to get her on the road Friday when the Sun is supposedly going to make an appearance?

[CVOStreetglide]

Amen, Hope to get her on the road Friday when the Sun is supposedly going to make an appearance?

MORE GOOD STUFF FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION!!!

In my case, I drilled the fender from the get go....after getting over the same agony that most here experienced.

I used blue painters tape to be sure that eveything was straight and centered before drilling AND I put a small piece of 2x4 behind the fender just in case....

Also, FWIW: I "repinned" the Kury tag to the stock connector.

Here's the part numbers in case you want to do the same:

Socket Housing      p/n 74112-98Bk  $2.99
(2) Pins                p/n 74191-98      $1.00ea

That way the stock light can remain in tact and be reinstalled very quickly.

I made sure the "Kury" tag wire was cut longer so that I could relocate it to the side of the inner fender near the connector for the right turn light and the harness as opposed to the stock location.

I used longer chrome recessed head bolts in the top two locations and the stock shorter ones supplied with the light in the lower location.

I also purchased 2 thinner self locking nylon nuts for the lower holes so they could slide between the thick inner fender bracket and the fender and be tightened up easily.
That way no drilling required except for the fender holes.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:

1. I am considering inserting small electrical grommets in the 4 holes that I drilled. They would protect the edges of the drilled holes in the fender, provide a slieve for the bolts to go through and cushion the tag away from the fender.

2. I am looking for a thin rubber adhesive backed cushon like many of the small floor jacks have. I think it would be nice to protect the fender, keep the scratches away and be weather proof.

3. I am considering sliding a insulator sleeve up the wire to the tag bracket to protect the connections from the tag LED from abrasions.


I hope this additional information helps in your project.  



  





 

[jettjocky]

Really like that look over using the bracket (like I did) but really for me, don't want to DRILL no fender.

[Wheelsnkeels]

MORE GOOD STUFF FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION!!!

In my case, I drilled the fender from the get go....after getting over the same agony that most here experienced.

I used blue painters tape to be sure that everything was straight and centered before drilling AND I put a small piece of 2x4 behind the fender just in case....

Also, FWIW: I "repinned" the Kury tag to the stock connector.

Here's the part numbers in case you want to do the same:

Socket Housing      p/n 74112-98Bk  $2.99
(2) Pins                p/n 74191-98      $1.00ea

That way the stock light can remain in tact and be reinstalled very quickly.

I made sure the "Kury" tag wire was cut longer so that I could relocate it to the side of the inner fender near the connector for the right turn light and the harness as opposed to the stock location.

I used longer chrome recessed head bolts in the top two locations and the stock shorter ones supplied with the light in the lower location.

I also purchased 2 thinner self locking nylon nuts for the lower holes so they could slide between the thick inner fender bracket and the fender and be tightened up easily.
That way no drilling required except for the fender holes.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:

1. I am considering inserting small electrical grommets in the 4 holes that I drilled. They would protect the edges of the drilled holes in the fender, provide a sleeve for the bolts to go through and cushion the tag away from the fender.

2. I am looking for a thin rubber adhesive backed cushion like many of the small floor jacks have. I think it would be nice to protect the fender, keep the scratches away and be weather proof.

3. I am considering sliding a insulator sleeve up the wire to the tag bracket to protect the connections from the tag LED from abrasions.


I hope this additional information helps in your project.  

1 I think this would pool water and actually cause rust?

2 you can buy the sheet cork gasket material at NAPA (probably most auto parts too) The gasket material seals the entire back of the plate and protects the fender underneath. Cut one rectangle to the entire size of the frame. It also fills all the gaps


3 You also could used double sided adhesive tape like carpet tape. leave the backing on one side and this will provide a cushion?

[GregKhougaz]

Looks like you'll be remaining stock? You have to drill the fender to use the bracket too!

Sorry but not true.  You can drill the backplate / bracket to match the fender.  (I did.)

[Wheelsnkeels]

Sorry but not true.  You can drill the backplate / bracket to match the fender.  (I did.)

Any picture's I cannot picture how that would work? I get drilling the plate mounting bracket to use an existing hole. However as it stands off the fender so far this would seem to necessitate spacers of some kind?

[GregKhougaz]

Any picture's I cannot picture how that would work? I get drilling the plate mounting bracket to use an existing hole. However as it stands off the fender so far this would seem to necessitate spacers of some kind?

Try looking here for a description of how we did it.  Re: SERG AND CVO: VERY GOOD TO ME! NEXT?  See reply #'s 39 on.  Maybe that will help.

[Wheelsnkeels]

Try looking here for a description of how we did it.  Re: SERG AND CVO: VERY GOOD TO ME! NEXT?  See reply #'s 39 on.  Maybe that will help.

Looks good but I was hoping for a look at the modified backing plate? Those pictures actually are the ones that convinced me to drill my fender!
From the angle they are shot it looks like the bracket wasn't used. Pictures dont always imply the truth.

Anyway I am happy with the result so I guess thats all that really matters but I stand corrected on the available mounting options!

[motor1]

          OK, been looking at this post, plus others for new plate, ( want to add one) but I too am bothered by drilling the fender. At the risk of sounding arrogant, I know I am capable, just concerned with the permanency of the bracket. Once I have the holes drilled it seems there is no going back. Ok I have said it, now have at me!
                                            Thanks,

                                         William

[Wheelsnkeels]

         OK, been looking at this post, plus others for new plate, ( want to add one) but I too am bothered by drilling the fender. At the risk of sounding arrogant, I know I am capable, just concerned with the permanency of the bracket. Once I have the holes drilled it seems there is no going back. Ok I have said it, now have at me!
                                            Thanks,

                                         William

Well apparently if you drill the bracket you can use the stock holes. So totally reversable. Also if you drill the fender and use the bracket the original will cover the holes if you chose to re install it. Reversible

If you drill the 4 holes and mount the frame to the fender you will need to fill and paint to go back!

Here is a picture with the bracket installed before I chose to go all out and mount just the frame. This stands off the fender about an inch and would have been completely covered by the factory assy if reversed

[SID8D2]

What if you took the backing plate and milled out the center section so it was just a flat radius on the back side. Then mounted that to your finder and then you could mount the frame to backing plate.
   Just a thought. To late for me, I drilled my fender last nt for the frame to mount to the fender.

[Bill Golightly]

I have been looking at this thread for installing the tag frame, and I did not care for having the frame bolted tight against the fender. I tried putting some type of molding around the frame made from a 3-light Pan head dash molding, but it was too bulky. I then found that I could trim down an '09 dash molding to fit. About all that is needed is to cut one side and install. The molding is about 2 3/8" too short, so two pieces will be required. Put the filler on the bottom. Just a kiss with a heat gun will make the rubber very pliable.

Bill in Stone Mountain