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[FLHTCUSE7]

The front + the rear playing well together = the best suspension

I agree but now I have great rear suspension and stock front HD junk so the hunt is on for better fork set-up 

[Midnight Rider]

Poor suspension components actually cause the tires to lose contact with the road surface because the suspension cannot "keep up" with what's thrown at it.  The problem is compounded in curves because the suspension is compressed...that's why it feels like it's drifting...the tires are not in constant contact with the road surface, especially if it is a rough road.

I know the 2014 forks are "beefier", but the innards still suck.  A good cartridge system will be a HUGE improvement when it counts.  As has been said many times here, you don't know what you're missing because you have no basis for comparison until you ride a bike with good suspension, then you forget again until you get back on a stock bike.

[FLHTCUSE7]

Agree 100% 

Poor suspension components actually cause the tires to lose contact with the road surface because the suspension cannot "keep up" with what's thrown at it.  The problem is compounded in curves because the suspension is compressed...that's why it feels like it's drifting...the tires are not in constant contact with the road surface, especially if it is a rough road.

I know the 2014 forks are "beefier", but the innards still suck.  A good cartridge system will be a HUGE improvement when it counts.  As has been said many times here, you don't know what you're missing because you have no basis for comparison until you ride a bike with good suspension, then you forget again until you get back on a stock bike.

[INDEPENDENT_1]

For the guy that installed the AK-20's and cant tell the difference, something is wrong! The difference is night and day! Did you get the adjustment on the fork cap? One side or both? The adjustment on one or both sides should have about 3 full rotations of adjustment. Did you bleed the system by pulling the cartridge up and down until their was no inconsistencies in the up and down movement? Did you get the correct amount of fluid in?

This should not be done with a measuring cup but rather with a syringe and a piece of tubing that you measure out and tighten a set screw and set the tubing into the fork tube up to the set screw that you measured the proper length of. Basically, this piece of tubing is allowed to go down into the fork tube a specific amount. You should have already poured your new fork oil in the fork tube at this point and it should be a couple of inches or so below the top or overflowing from the top of the fork tube with the tube in an upright position. Then suck the fluid out until the fluid level is no longer able to be evacuated from the fork tube. The oil level will be flush with the end of the tubing you measured from the specified distance on the instruction sheet. Note: The fluid is metered by volume within the fork tube. It is not a predetermined measurement (IE ounces or cc's).

If you install them correctly the difference is tremendous. I agree that they are on the expensive side but nothing else compares when installed correctly and fine tuned to your liking and Im happy to pay a little more for a USA made product. They can also be removed and installed on a different bike when you sell and upgrade bikes. For anyone who has not bought the AK-20 kit but is considering doing so, I suggest spending the extra $50 or whatever it is to get the adjustment for both sides of the forks. One is for compression and the other is rebound. To be able to dial it in perfectly is worth the extra $50 IMO and there is a substantial difference in the ride from the knob turned all the way in to all the way out. The purpose of the knob is to adjust the valving for compression and the opposite fork cap is for adjusting rebound. This valving directly affects the speed that the tire moves up in to fender well on compression and the speed that the tire pushes back to the pavement on rebound which is essentially everything in regards to how the suspension behaves, reacts and performs Also, make sure your tires have the proper air pressure in them before fine tuning and before every ride for that matter.

[Midnight Rider]

For the guy that installed the AK-20's and cant tell the difference, something is wrong! The difference is night and day! Did you get the adjustment on the fork cap? One side or both? The adjustment on one or both sides should have about 3 full rotations of adjustment. Did you bleed the system by pulling the cartridge up and down until their was no inconsistencies in the up and down movement? Did you get the correct amount of fluid in?

This should not be done with a measuring cup but rather with a syringe and a piece of tubing that you measure out and tighten a set screw and set the tubing into the fork tube up to the set screw that you measured the proper length of. Basically, this piece of tubing is allowed to go down into the fork tube a specific amount. You should have already poured your new fork oil in the fork tube at this point and it should be a couple of inches or so below the top or overflowing from the top of the fork tube with the tube in an upright position. Then suck the fluid out until the fluid level is no longer able to be evacuated from the fork tube. The oil level will be flush with the end of the tubing you measured from the specified distance on the instruction sheet. Note: The fluid is metered by volume within the fork tube. It is not a predetermined measurement (IE ounces or cc's).

If you install them correctly the difference is tremendous. I agree that they are on the expensive side but nothing else compares when installed correctly and fine tuned to your liking and Im happy to pay a little more for a USA made product. They can also be removed and installed on a different bike when you sell and upgrade bikes. For anyone who has not bought the AK-20 kit but is considering doing so, I suggest spending the extra $50 or whatever it is to get the adjustment for both sides of the forks. One is for compression and the other is rebound. To be able to dial it in perfectly is worth the extra $50 IMO and there is a substantial difference in the ride from the knob turned all the way in to all the way out. The purpose of the knob is to adjust the valving for compression and the opposite fork cap is for adjusting rebound. This valving directly affects the speed that the tire moves up in to fender well on compression and the speed that the tire pushes back to the pavement on rebound which is essentially everything in regards to how the suspension behaves, reacts and performs Also, make sure your tires have the proper air pressure in them before fine tuning and before every ride for that matter.

 

[Billy]

MIdnight rider.      I don't think you understand my quote on the Traxion front end. I was saying that with the 14 SERK that has a cartridge front end and hyd shocks a new frame and front end that the ride seems very close to as good as  my 07  SERK with Bitubos and Traxion. I was very happy with the 07 set up witch was done by Traxion them selves. I was just quoting that the new bike has a great ride and I did not feel the need to upgrade. Billy

[Rooster]

Billy, if you are happy like it is just ride and enjoy

[INDEPENDENT_1]

Billy, if you are happy like it is just ride and enjoy

I agree and I'm not sure I know the specific reason why but the ride quality seems to diminish on a new bike and rather quickly IMO. I suspect the springs lose their integrity and the fork oil's capability to dampen becomes compromised maybe partly due to the oil needing to help make up for the inadequacies of the springs. Its pretty amazing how dirty and ineffective fork oil gets so quick. I think the recommended intervals of changing the fork oil in the owners manual is pretty grossly over extended personally. It is not something that you may notice immediately because it tends to slowly get worse. All of that said, I might add that Im bigger than average at 6' 2" and 240 lbs. I have ridden a new '14 SG and the ride was much better but IMO the front end needed to be a little firmer. I absolutely despise front end dive when coming up on a corner or 1/4 of the way into a corner and you grab some front brake to scrub off some speed. That is a pucker factor for me and I prefer the front end not dive much at all and force the tire to grip and stay in good contact with the pavement. The improved ride and reaction qualities make riding much more enjoyable for me.

You SE guys do have the benefit of at least better shocks on the rear and I see in the SE book they now offer a cartridge I suspect is similar to a monotube. In fact I figured they are the same thing and made by the same company (progressive) but I am not certain if those come in the new SE bikes or not? If so, upgrading to the Bitubo's or the AK-20 cartridges may not be justified by some of the guys that don't do heavy touring or put a lot of miles on. I have found even for the non SE bikes just putting heavy fork oil in the front is a very substantial improvement with the front end dive but still leaves a pretty big space for improvement. My OL has a bad case of crippling arthritis too and the much improved ride quality extends her ride times and she feels less beat up after the ride.

[FLHTCUSE7]

My CVO Limited did have the crappy HD air shocks in the rear. Swapped for Öhlins and am now very happy with that part.

Front still sucks and need to be upgraded.

[Billy]

The 14 SERK has cartridge front forks and Hyd rear. both lowered 1 inch.   I was just  happy that there is very little dive in the front end I watch other Touring bikes just rock back and forth when they shift. I don't like that. So far I  feel no need to upgrade. I am 175# so maybe better and ride solo. Billy

[Frank Smith]

Just curious, what exactly are you not happy with in the curves? Can you please be specific and descriptive as possible?  Also, I'd love the same description for the rear upgraded shocks. If I upgrade, how will that benefit me in the curves? 

A 930 pound HD with stock suspension is like riding a drunken camel in a sandstorm.

[Billy]

A 930 pound HD with stock suspension is like riding a drunken camel in a sandstorm.

Stock suspension is a broad term as HD now has some options. Cartridge front end and hyd. rear shocks are a big improvement over Air shocks and piston front ends Billy