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[1abastarsmda]

Did you put the thick washer between the filter nut and the AC cover?  You should not have any contact of the filter element with the AC cover.  My unit is tight and does not rock or spin.  As for the breather vents, look at the backing plate provided by Zippers and the bolts provided.  The plate is ported and channeled and the bolts are hollowed allowing the intake to draw a vacuum on the crankcase ports.  

Yes, I used the washer.  Mine would still spin until that very last tightening of the cover.  Even with it tight, I could spin the cover without much effort at all.  That's why I'm a bit worried with my leg resting on it, whether I'm going to have to continually put it back in place or having to keep tightening it.  I guess I won't know for sure until I get a chance to ride a bit with this on there.

You can also swap the MaxFlow filter for the HiFlow, simply by replacing the filter element, all the work you performed installing the backing plate will not be wasted.

Can you swap the filters?  What about the length of the 3 bolts?  Won't those be too long if you used the thinner filter and still keep the cover out just as far?

[1abastarsmda]

Oh yes, as far as the breather bolts are concerned...I did notice that they were hollow bolts and had the little holes in them.  I figured it had something to do with taking care of that issue in a different way, but without asking, I did not know.  Thanks to you and GRC for explaining that topic.  I was a bit baffled when I didn't see a place for the hoses to go.

[DonT]

You will have to order the bolts also, did I answer your question about the breather vents?

[DonT]

Looks like my timing is off by seconds with my replies.

[1abastarsmda]

Okay, now I think we are both on the same page.  Just posted about the breather vents in the bolts...okay there.  On the same page now with the slimmer filter and needing the shorter bolts to do that.  I do have one other quick question for you.  You have the Fullsac's...do they come with the bolt and nut to secure them to the mufflers or do I need to go grab those somewhere (unless of course I want to dig through my collection)?  They are scheduled to arrive UPS tomorrow.  I can't wait to finish them up.

[1abastarsmda]

There you go again.  Off by a few seconds again.

[DonT]

They come with the baffles, bolt, nut and lock-washer.  Mine went in real easy, and baffle seated to the front of muffler just as the hole for the muffler lined up with the one in the baffle, nice and tight.

[1abastarsmda]

Mine is drilled and ready to slide them in, bolt 'em, and put 'em back on the bike.  I hope my drilled holes line up real nice.  I'm assuming that the Fullsac's need to go in completely until they hit bottom at the other end, and my holes should line up without having to pull the Fullsac's back out even a little bit.  If I had to do that, then I wouldn't have it correct would I?  I would need to enlarge the bolt hole instead of pulling the Fullsac out to match the position of the drilled hole.  Am I correct in these assumptions?

I may be overthinking here again, but with the original baffles, once the weld was broken loose, there was room for it to drop in a fraction of an inch, so maybe my thinking is incorrect here.  If the Fullsac is pushed in the entire way, perhaps it is okay for it to be pulled back to match to the drilled holes by that small fraction of an inch also.  I was thinking that it should be tight in as far as it can go, or there would be leakage...but I guess it wouldn't really be leakage, since it's still inside the muffler and the baffle isn't a closed in piece.  I hope this explanation makes some sense. 

Overall, it sounds like I should just push it in as far as it will go, and then if it's just slightly off from my drilled hole, just line them up and bolt it in place.  Now, have I got it correct?

[DonT]

As long as your hole is centered 1 3/8" from the end of the muffler you should be right on, that's if your mufflers follow the same spec as mine, believe they do.  As far as them having or not having to bottom out, I can not answer, Steve from Fullsac will have to address that one.  If you do have an alignment problem with the whole, rather than elongate it, I would drill another whole in the right location near the one you drilled, as long as they are on the bottom of the muffler you will not see them.  This will ensure your baffle will not start to walk around in the muffler as it might with an elongated whole.  Based on how close the original hole you drilled is to the spec, the baffle plate lip may or may not cover it.

Wish you the best on this.

[1abastarsmda]

Thanks for all the info.  I guess I'll find out if I have a good match tomorrow afternoon.  I am dead center at 1 3/8" for each hole.  I agree about not elongating the holes.  It only took a few minutes to drill, so another hole would be the only option.  Time for me to shut down the computer and get some shut eye.