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[lowflight]

Interesting, I guess.... Thanks for posting!

I had the wobble and took my shark in and service guy said "yep, those RG's like the tight side of the torque setting", however they did it, it worked.

I have been going to look it up for future reference, maybe I should just stick the torque wrench on it now so I know where it was when everything worked well. 

My wife has a 03 Fatboy we have had since new and never had any kind of problem in this area.

[North Georgia Hawg]

And just exactly WHAT are we to do with that 1.2" measurement in pic 2?...

Ken

[grc]

And just exactly WHAT are we to do with that 1.2" measurement in pic 2?...

Ken

Compare it to the "spec" in the shop manual.  I don't have the spec, but I think I can safely assume it's like most other Harley specs these days, and has a very large tolerance.  As I mentioned earlier, this is a very imprecise way to measure something as critical as bearing preload, but probably less so that the old swing test.  That test is a total joke, with too many other variables in the mix.

Jerry

[North Georgia Hawg]

Compare it to the "spec" in the shop manual.  I don't have the spec, but I think I can safely assume it's like most other Harley specs these days, and has a very large tolerance.  As I mentioned earlier, this is a very imprecise way to measure something as critical as bearing preload, but probably less so that the old swing test.  That test is a total joke, with too many other variables in the mix.

Jerry

Thanks for posting this, Jerry.

But wow... might as well just grab the front wheel and try to shake it... and if it moves, tighten the nut!

Ken

[johnmowcop]

   Yeah, very cutting edge, for the 1800's.  These people are bound and determined to only be dragged into the current century when they are given no other choice, kind of like the late model EFI that was made necessary by government regulation.  Without the EPA you'd still have carburetors.

I found it interesting that they mention the Trike doesn't use either method, but rather a torque measurement.   DUH!   

Jerry

Jerry and all.

Thanks very much for all your responses to my original query.

Seems alien to me to be using bearings in this manner, to provide a form of resistance to rolling in order to dampen any outside rotational forces. Particularly to the extent that you could finish up with indentations in the races from point loads due to forcing the contact pressure. As far as I know the only time you use preload is when the operational conditions release the preload through expansion.
Bet if I did a search some owners would be complaining of notchiness in the steering "wonder what caused that"?.

So not feeling comfortable with over tightening the bearings, thought I would have a look for after market dampers. There seems to be plenty available but they are hardly subtle in appearance, certainly don't fit in with the overall image of the bike. Does any one know of something more appropriate to the bikes quality and appearance. Even the old fashion friction damper through the stem would be better than the "racer" style on offer.

Again thanks fellas for taking the time to respond.

Regards
JohnT   

[grc]

It's not about over tightening the bearings (which isn't good), it's about fixing the preload if it isn't correct.  If it's set correctly, it won't be notchy and it won't flat spot the bearings and races.  If it's loose, that in fact not only can lead to the problem you reported but it could lead to flat spotting of the races when the loose bearings take up the slack every time you hit a bump.

A steering damper isn't a bad idea IMHO, but it isn't a good substitute for setting the bearing preload correctly.

Jerry