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[copout221]

 Has anyone actually used one of these units on their bikes ? I have the kit and really don't feel comfortable attempting to use it. It just seems too confusing and don't believe I will be getting an accurate tune after using it with my SERT. The instructions do not specify if you need to ride the bike for an accurate reading and I really don't understand what you need to do with the SERT starting map AFR values, etc. I may be wrong but I feel it may be best to pay for a custom dyno tune and map which will cost a few hundred less than the DTT kit and will avoid any aggravation or bad map information that could result from my lack of knowledge. In addition, I have not used the kit yet and can still return it without a penalty. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

[Twolanerider]

Has anyone actually used one of these units on their bikes ? I have the kit and really don't feel comfortable attempting to use it. It is just too confusing and don't believe I will be getting an accurate tune after using it. I may be wrong but I feel it may be best to pay for a custom dyno tune and map which will cost a few hundred less than the DTT kit. In addition, I have not used the kit yet and can still return it without a penalty. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone else's familiarity or comfort level isn't really what you need C.O.  You'll be the guy using it.  If you're comfortable you can use it well and make the bike run right then go for it.  If you're not very comfortable of that fact, however, then one has to ask why you're not already on the way to a known to be excellent dyno tuner with a PC or a SERT in hand (depending on what the dyno guy likes best).  This is one of things you really don't want to get even a little bit wrong.

[copout221]

Thanks TwoLaneRider. That is what I thought. I already have the SERT and know how to load basic or modified maps but don't fool with AFR values or VE tables nor do I fool with the spark advance settings, etc. I am just not that comfortable fooling around with these settings and taking a guess on a $34,000 bike. I am going to let the local HD tuner do it's job before I remove the bike from storage and may have the cam changed before that to avoid paying for another dyno tune afterwards.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks TwoLaneRider. That is what I thought. I already have the SERT and know how to load basic or modified maps but don't fool with AFR values or VE tables nor do I fool with the spark advance settings, etc. I am just not that comfortable fooling around with these settings and taking a guess on a $34,000 bike. I am going to let the local HD tuner do it's job before I remove the bike from storage and may have the cam changed before that to avoid paying for another dyno tune afterwards.

Sounds like a fair plan C.O.  Doing anything more than loading maps really requires some feedback from the back that we really can't get accurately enough from the seat of our pants.  We might get close, but we'd never get it all the way home without dumb luck on our side.  And that probably isn't too likely with that many variables involved.

[VegasFatSE]

I used the Twin Scan about 10 months ago to tune my bike as described on there website. It works quite well. I did not say it was easy. If you do not plan on doing mods at different times and do not enjoy wrenching and computer tech stuff look for a dyno tune. I have a thread here somewhere I think. I installed S&S 575 cams, R&B 2-1 exh. I used the SERT to tune the computer. I used the twin scan and wego to give feedback and data logging. Twin scan gives good instructions. I followed them with very good results. 2k miles since with no problems and runs great. With the wego and data logging you can see what the motor is doing at each rpm,load combo. It then spits out tables that have all the same graphs as the SERT. So you can just transfer you test results into the SERT table. The twin scan color codes the cells for rich lean etc.. I made the adj till all the squares came out green during the test ride. It can be hard to hit all the cells test riding. It would save a lot of time to be on a dyno. I had to make a 10 min ride to a place where I could run her through the gear. I can say that the 4-6 hour dyno charge it not bad. You will spend more than that doing it yourself.

[copout221]

 Well that settles it. I will send the kit back and get the bike custom tuned in the spring. Thanks for the feedback.  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[copout221]

 So I returned the DTT kit and bought the Thundermax auto tune kit after speaking with them for over an hour. I get the kit and the new O2 sensor on the front header will not fit because it is too long and is striking the oil filter housing. I cannot believe all the problems I am having with these new Rineharts. I am seriously considering pulling them off and sending them back !!  

[hd-dude]

So I returned the DTT kit and bought the Thundermax auto tune kit after speaking with them for over an hour. I get the kit and the new O2 sensor on the front header will not fit because it is too long and is striking the oil filter housing. I cannot believe all the problems I am having with these new Rineharts. I am seriously considering pulling them off and sending them back !!  

Sadunbar, A member here, had the same problem with the o2 sensors. You can loosen the filter adapter plate and rotate it a bit to gain the required clearance.

[Twolanerider]

So I returned the DTT kit and bought the Thundermax auto tune kit after speaking with them for over an hour. I get the kit and the new O2 sensor on the front header will not fit because it is too long and is striking the oil filter housing. I cannot believe all the problems I am having with these new Rineharts. I am seriously considering pulling them off and sending them back !!  

So the location or angled orientation of the bung is the problem?

C.O., I never made an opportunity to compare the physical size of the sensors we got with the Thundermax kits against the stock parts.  If there is a significant difference I guess that could excuse the pipe maker.  After all, they're building to replace stock parts, not aftermarket.

Having said that, most o2 sensors I've had in hand were close to the same physically.  Not a significant amount of difference.  With the sensors that are supplied with the T-max package you can have plenty of room.  Granted, I put my bungs on with the sensors in hand in pre-existing pipes.  So I could pick what seemed the ideal location.  But it's really not rocket science making these things fit in there.  Here's where mine went: