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[efrbc1]

2005 SEEG.  Can not get the Comp Nut loose.  Tried heat, hesitant to try an impact wrench.  Any suggestions???
At least I know it wasn't loose..........

Chris

[Twolanerider]

2005 SEEG.  Can not get the Comp Nut loose.  Tried heat, hesitant to try an impact wrench.  Any suggestions???
At least I know it wasn't loose..........

Chris

Never used heat.  Always used an impact (for removal). 

[sadunbar]

If heat did not work, an impact is your best bet and will likely work fine.  Hold your breath, though.  More than one have broken off in the crank, or otherwise damaged the threads in the crank...   

[Firewalker]

An old farmer told me once that oil of wintergreen, (get at a drug store?) will penetrate threads and loosen a tight joint. Have never tried it but he made the claim. He said to apply it liberally and give it several hours to penetrate. If nothing else, it will smell good while you work. J

[Firewalker]

Strangely enough, I just read this on a site about replacing compensators;  We highly recommend that the 9/16 12 Compensator bolt be heated with MAP gas, prior to removal, to soften the red Loctite. Without the use of heat, the hardened red Loctite may break up into pieces and act like a very coarse abrasive and destroy the bolt threads

[grc]

IMHO the first thing to try is heat, not an impact wrench.  The high strength thread locker used on that nut will lose some of it's strength at high temps; that's why the folks who make that stuff recommend using heat to help break it loose first.  You may still need to use the impact, but perhaps less vigorously.

Jerry

[INDEPENDENT_1]

Heat and beeswax if you can get the beeswax to penetrate. Old machinist trick. Kroil penetrating oil may work if you soak it overnight but most likely the map gas, beeswax and an impact would get it without much trouble if you put a strap of flat stock between the comp sprocket teeth and the clutch basket teeth.

[efrbc1]

Thanks to all.  Got it with heat and the impact.  Looked good - took it apart to change a shift shaft seal.  Cleaned the old Loctite off and got it all back together with no problems.

Chris

[Twolanerider]

Thanks to all.  Got it with heat and the impact.  Looked good - took it apart to change a shift shaft seal.  Cleaned the old Loctite off and got it all back together with no problems.

Chris

Which tightening method did you use?  Older instruction is a straight torque pull.  Newer and better is a torque angle of 70 ft pds plus another 45 degrees.  Lots of loose comp nuts with the original spec.

[efrbc1]

New one.  Had done it before following the new method and that is probably why it took so much to get it off. 

Chris

[porthole]

Did you replace the nut? They are cheap enough to encourage replacement.

[efrbc1]

Nobody near me had one in stock.  Cleaned the "old" one and tightened it down.

Chris

[rheiner]

Which tightening method did you use?  Older instruction is a straight torque pull.  Newer and better is a torque angle of 70 ft pds plus another 45 degrees.  Lots of loose comp nuts with the original spec.

Two weeks ago I replaced my compensator with the latest version, part no. 42200064A. It called for torque of 175 ft. lbs. (step no. 18). Nothing in there about 70 ft. lbs plus 45 degrees.

[Twolanerider]

Two weeks ago I replaced my compensator with the latest version, part no. 42200064A. It called for torque of 175 ft. lbs. (step no. 18). Nothing in there about 70 ft. lbs plus 45 degrees.

I thought the comp nut was still 40392-91 for the older bikes.  Didn't know it had been superceded.  Or is that number for the new bikes and one of their many compensator variations?

[sadunbar]

I thought the comp nut was still 40392-91 for the older bikes.  Didn't know it had been superceded.  Or is that number for the new bikes and one of their many compensator variations?

42200064A is the latest and greatest of the newest version SE Compensator... (of course by the time you read this there may be another, and another, and another...)