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[adkg12]

Ok...so I have done pretty extensive research on this, and still really cant make a call on it.  I have a 2007 SERK 110.  As far as I know its totally stock.  Do all SE Touring bikes come with the SE Comp?  I am getting a pretty pronounced tick whenever the engine is at idle for the most part, but once it warms up, its there all of the time.  It "sounds" like its coming from the top/front of the motor, but of course sound can travel.  I also have that "valve noise" when ever I am not under a load or downshifting.  BUT when I am accelerating, right at about 2500-2900RPM I get a noise that sounds like valve float or something knocking.  It does change speed with RPM change.  SO I am thinking lifter right? When I start the bike sometimes, I get kickback and it backfires...and theres an occasional cough through the intake as well..  So .. do I have both a lifter AND a compensator issue?  And get this, I wash the bike the other day, and find the chrome is litterally falling off the back wheel.  This bike is garage kept and only has 8K on it.  There is really bad pitting on front fender mounts that attach to the forks as well.  NONE of this was there when I bought it.. or when I put it away for the year!!  UGH!
Glen

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

 The search button is your friend. It has been documented extremely well on things that are an issue with the 110 dealing with this very issue.
From the valve train noise , to comp issues.

[adkg12]

Yep, I have searched quite a bit .. here and elsewhere.  I kinda already have my mind made up its actually both parts that need replaced.  I just was hoping for affirmation so I could feel better about it all..LOL Thanks GMR.  I already know where I am ordering my parts.  EventuallY!!  Cant seem to get ahead enough...Illness in the family, totaled my truck, repairs on other cars, etc.. LOL
Glen

[jpb]

Ok...so I have done pretty extensive research on this, and still really cant make a call on it.  I have a 2007 SERK 110.  As far as I know its totally stock.  Do all SE Touring bikes come with the SE Comp?  I am getting a pretty pronounced tick whenever the engine is at idle for the most part, but once it warms up, its there all of the time.  It "sounds" like its coming from the top/front of the motor, but of course sound can travel.  I also have that "valve noise" when ever I am not under a load or downshifting.  BUT when I am accelerating, right at about 2500-2900RPM I get a noise that sounds like valve float or something knocking.  It does change speed with RPM change.  SO I am thinking lifter right? When I start the bike sometimes, I get kickback and it backfires...and theres an occasional cough through the intake as well..  So .. do I have both a lifter AND a compensator issue?  And get this, I wash the bike the other day, and find the chrome is litterally falling off the back wheel.  This bike is garage kept and only has 8K on it.  There is really bad pitting on front fender mounts that attach to the forks as well.  NONE of this was there when I bought it.. or when I put it away for the year!!  UGH!
Glen

If your bike is still stock as bought it does not have an SE Compensator.

[grc]

The stock bikes up until 2010 did not come with the SE compensator, but rather an even worse unit.  If your bike is stock, you have the very first version, and it will contribute to starter kickback issues.  So yes, you need to update the compensator to the latest version of the SE unit. 

The 110 engines are also famous for valve train noise, and the early bikes also had a lot of piston slap issues due to poorly machined cylinders and lousy piston to cylinder fit.  There also was an issue with the valve spring collars hitting the lower rocker box casting.  That could be fixed by removing the parts and machining (grinding) extra clearance, or just buying the latest updated part that comes with proper clearance in the casting.

There were many issues, those are just a few off the top of my head.

Jerry

[mark]

Regarding your chome issues...typical Harley chrome.  I have a garage kept and babied 2010 SESG.  Already replaced shifter and need to replace rear brake lever...peeling and blistered chrome.   Same chrome issue on a buddy's '09 SE Ultra.

[moscooter]

Regarding your chome issues...typical Harley chrome.  I have a garage kept and babied 2010 SESG.  Already replaced shifter and need to replace rear brake lever...peeling and blistered chrome.   Same chrome issue on a buddy's '09 SE Ultra.

Here is a good part of your problem....."Location: St. Simons Island, GA"

  Like myself located in Sunset Beach (less than 2 miles from the beach) and my bike is in a climate controlled garage.

You're subject to lots of salt air anywhere within 10 miles or better of the coastline and thus more frequent washing/polishing/etc. is required to fend off corrossion.

[mark]

Moscooter: While I have a coastal climate, I don't live on the beach.  I never seem to have any issues with my vehicles, even the ones that stay outside.  Never had problems with chrome on a car...just on my bike.  Like you, my bike is in a climate controlled garage and trust me, it gets plenty of waxing and polishing love. 

[moscooter]

 
OK,  I'm not having any problems with the chrome on my cars/trucks either.  But Harley now does their chroming (in house) as I believe they have "touted" in recent years............They used to have it outsourced to another outfit..........that obviously did a better job.  The chrome on my last few Harleys is in no way as deep and tough and good as that which was on my '93 Dyna Wide Glide when I got it new.

Check the door knobs and any outside latches on your house or outside A/C units...................See any rust or corrosion   That would be your signal that you're close enough to the coast to put more effort into protecting the (less than quality) chrome on your Harley.

Just sayin'

[JKM]

I have a 2008 SERK and addressed many of these at similar mileage level.
- kick back on starting is the compensator. Replace with latest SE version. Mine has worked great since and improved shifting as well.
- top end noise likely lifters if original. Change those ASAP before they fail and cause engine damage. S&S great replacement. Also change can bearing if original. OEM version likely to fail. Consider can upgrade at the same time.
- there was a service bulletin about grinding rocker boxes for more clearance as mentioned in response above. I would change lifters first and go with adjustable pushrods and see if the noise goes away before tearing into rocker boxes. Mine were done by previous owner, maybe when the base gasket recall was done
- other issues for top end are stock valve springs are too strong. If you're thinking about beadwork in the future, then that would be the time to address them.
- with a proper tune and full exhaust system with high air filter you can bring the heat down a lot (if this hasn't been done already.

[FLTRI]

I have a 2008 SERK and addressed many of these at similar mileage level.
- kick back on starting is the compensator. Replace with latest SE version. Mine has worked great since and improved shifting as well.
- top end noise likely lifters if original. Change those ASAP before they fail and cause engine damage. S&S great replacement. Also change can bearing if original. OEM version likely to fail. Consider can upgrade at the same time.
- there was a service bulletin about grinding rocker boxes for more clearance as mentioned in response above. I would change lifters first and go with adjustable pushrods and see if the noise goes away before tearing into rocker boxes. Mine were done by previous owner, maybe when the base gasket recall was done
- other issues for top end are stock valve springs are too strong. If you're thinking about beadwork in the future, then that would be the time to address them.
- with a proper tune and full exhaust system with high air filter you can bring the heat down a lot (if this hasn't been done already.

Best info and advice so far!
Bob

[adkg12]

Thanks for all he info.  So basically I am into this damned thing for another 2000 LOL.. Oh well..So .. Lifters before Comp?
Glen

[r0de_runr]

Not if you do it yourself.

Lifters are very easy, watch the video.  Cost is about $400 for good S&S lifters, SE tapered P/R, and gaskets.  No real need to open cam chest for lifters.


Compensator is more involved, but still doable.  Again, watch the video.
▶ New style Harley Screamin Eagle compensator install - YouTube


If you raised kids, you can install these parts.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Yep, I have searched quite a bit .. here and elsewhere.  I kinda already have my mind made up its actually both parts that need replaced.  I just was hoping for affirmation so I could feel better about it all..LOL Thanks GMR.  I already know where I am ordering my parts.  EventuallY!!  Cant seem to get ahead enough...Illness in the family, totaled my truck, repairs on other cars, etc.. LOL
Glen

Life can be a bit much some days...  I agree.. 

[JKM]

I would do lifters and cam bearing first. If they fail it could grenade the engine.

You should also consider measuring the crank run out with the cam chest open for cam bearings. Crank runout has been an issue, but with that low mileage you're likely fine.