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Author Topic: Changing the bars  (Read 34958 times)

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mjb765

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Changing the bars
« on: May 04, 2015, 09:18:41 PM »

Anybody change the bars on a '15 CVO Street Glide yet?? I'm sure someone has. I am thinking of going with WO575's and wondering if the MoCo put enough slack in the clutch and brake lines for slightly taller bars. 2" up and 2" back.

Thought I heard about some new way to bleed ABS and clutch and would really like to get away with not changing those lines.....
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CVOSGJoe

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2015, 09:26:52 AM »

I changed mine using the Khrome Werks +2 300518 and the wiring was just long enough. No extensions needed. Not so sure I could have gotten away with two up as well. Clutch lines had to be slightly rerouted but did not need to disconnect and bleed. Just loosen the bango slightly and rotated to needed position.

 
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'17 CVO Street Glide w/117 kit.. more mods to come
SOLD-'15 CVO Street Glide. H.C. Mercury Mods are: FM 2-1-2 ceramic header, E-Series FM slip-ons, PV-2, 110 tweaked by Fuel Moto, Detachable Tour-Pak, Heated Seat & Grips and the list goes on....

jeromerambo

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2015, 10:07:55 AM »

I just put Yaffee classic 12 inch bars on with the stock cables. I think you will be fine.
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mjb765

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2015, 12:13:54 PM »

I changed mine using the Khrome Werks +2 300518 and the wiring was just long enough. No extensions needed. Not so sure I could have gotten away with two up as well. Clutch lines had to be slightly rerouted but did not need to disconnect and bleed. Just loosen the bango slightly and rotated to needed position.

 

Never saw those..can you post a pic?

Thanks
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jpswino

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2015, 10:31:00 PM »

I did Klockwerks "ergo up and back" bars. They don't really feel back because they are much straighter and wider feeling. They sold me a $35 extension to go with the $269 bars. They are awesome and high quality chrome. Stock brake lines work fine.
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CowboyBagger

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2015, 11:28:34 PM »

It seems the stock clutch and brake lines vary in length every year model.  On my 2012 FLHXSE3, I had to go plus 4 on each to get them to fit 12" Yaffee's.

Cowboy
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From an ocean tide, to an 8 second ride! Life is a ride, so make it a good one.

mjb765

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2015, 12:35:32 PM »

It seems the stock clutch and brake lines vary in length every year model.  On my 2012 FLHXSE3, I had to go plus 4 on each to get them to fit 12" Yaffee's.

Cowboy

I know...on my 2011 FLHXSE2 I needed a new clutch line but the brake was fine......others did not have to change anything
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CVOSGJoe

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2015, 05:03:40 PM »

Here is a side view of the Khrome Werks
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'17 CVO Street Glide w/117 kit.. more mods to come
SOLD-'15 CVO Street Glide. H.C. Mercury Mods are: FM 2-1-2 ceramic header, E-Series FM slip-ons, PV-2, 110 tweaked by Fuel Moto, Detachable Tour-Pak, Heated Seat & Grips and the list goes on....

harleyrules

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2015, 09:14:58 AM »

Did you guys do the install yourself or did you have the dealer install them?  If dealer did the install how expensive was it?
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CVOSGJoe

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2015, 06:20:58 PM »

Did you guys do the install yourself or did you have the dealer install them?  If dealer did the install how expensive was it?


Did Mine Myself   Love wrenching on this thing!
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'17 CVO Street Glide w/117 kit.. more mods to come
SOLD-'15 CVO Street Glide. H.C. Mercury Mods are: FM 2-1-2 ceramic header, E-Series FM slip-ons, PV-2, 110 tweaked by Fuel Moto, Detachable Tour-Pak, Heated Seat & Grips and the list goes on....

mjb765

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2015, 07:14:19 PM »

Did you guys do the install yourself or did you have the dealer install them?  If dealer did the install how expensive was it?

I did the bars on my '11, but when I heard about cracking open the brakes and bleeding the ABS I started getting quotes. Dealers said 12 hours plus parts, indy shop said 8. It sounds like I may not have to open brake and clutch lines, so I will probably do these myself again.
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Jswerve

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2015, 07:18:59 PM »

I did 2 sets of bars on my bike. I am 5'6" short. I did the Khromewerks +2 sweepers for 1 riding season. Never like them. Too low and too flimsy (only 1" diameter). Pulling the bike off the stand sucked with those. They did not require any wiring extensions or cables. I simply rotated the clutch and brake banjos.

Next I installed my 13" Cyclesmith bars. I had to install wire extensions and new clutch and brake lines. I LOVE these bars. I sorely missed them in Feb when my wife and I flew to Ft. Lauderdale and rented a '15 limited low. I hated the reach bars on that thing.

Here is a good photo of the 13's




Good luck with your decision.

Jesse


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|Color Matched Detachable Tour Pak | Fuelmoto PV | Dragos 580 cams | Dragula 2-1/Ghost Pipe | Cyclesmith 13's | Sachs heads | Yaffe Stealth III License Plate Frame| Long Angled High

harleyrules

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2015, 09:51:36 AM »

Sounds like once I decide which bars I want I will do the install myself.  Not going to pay for 12 hours labor 88.00 an hour. Thank you for the information.
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15CVOSG

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2015, 12:12:42 PM »

Changing the bar's on a 2014'-2015' touring is really a simple job and should be done yourself if you have a little wrench ability ... without internal wiring ... l was able to swap bars and button up whole job in less than an hour ... swapped stock bars for a powdercoated set....
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mjb765

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Re: Changing the bars
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2015, 12:56:16 PM »

Changing the bar's on a 2014'-2015' touring is really a simple job and should be done yourself if you have a little wrench ability ... without internal wiring ... l was able to swap bars and button up whole job in less than an hour ... swapped stock bars for a powdercoated set....


How do you get to the clamp??? Radio has to come out???  Or just lower covers?
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