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[mrmagloo]

I've had the DD6 for a couple of years now, and I'm starting to notice it get a little notchy upshifting into 2nd and 3rd. I'm wondering if this is an adjustment thing, or if this is something that will continue to get progressively worse requiring an overhaul some time in the near future? All upshifts in other gears and down shifts seem fine?

[Spiderman]

It's gonna get worse.
The Baker DD6 is a fabulous tranny that has one fatal flaw.
IF, you had a DD6 gear set installed in your stock H-D trans case
The main bearing has to be mounted to within like .00001 or something or it wears out
Yours sounds like it's wearing just enough that the shaft is moving ever so slightly causing the bind in the gears

That's my diagnostic  Somebody else might say bullchit BB so let em have it

B B

[adkg12]

I've had the DD6 for a couple of years now, and I'm starting to notice it get a little notchy upshifting into 2nd and 3rd. I'm wondering if this is an adjustment thing, or if this is something that will continue to get progressively worse requiring an overhaul some time in the near future? All upshifts in other gears and down shifts seem fine?

Food for thought.  I had the same issue and decided it was teh clutch dragging ever so slightly.  Upon opening the clutch fluid reservoir, I found that the fluid was contaminated with what looked like water.  I sat the bike upright, and cracked open the bleeder screw and let it drain.  I made sure to keep refilling the reservoir as it drained out.  After the fluid ran clean for from the bleeder for a few seconds, I tightened it back up, topped off the reservoir and closed it up.  One pump of the clutch and it was perfect!  AND the "notchy" shifting was gone.  That was 2k miles ago and its still good.  As I said.. FFT
Glen

[Ironhorse]

HD Dude (Jim S.) put mine in 4 years ago and it's been trouble free. All my shifts are clean and smooth.

[Classic Beast]

My DD6 was one of the original design they used snap rings to hold the end thrust of the Helical bearings like the stock harley with straight cut gears, but as you can imagine with 150 hp on  tap the end thrust was more that what the snap rings were designed to hold so it was easy to snap them and of course the result was 4th gear didn't work so good and metal was circulating through the transmission. Baker then came out with an up graded trap door which had proper thrust plates which I ordered along with an over haul kit, once I changed all the bearings it shifted like new again and all of the loud noises were gone, I am using an S&S tranny case which even though it is strong it still took some grinding and the studs in the bottom leaked since they are not in blind holes.

[Yellow09SERG]

^ what he said. Had very similar issues and fixes with a very early model DD6 in an 06 Street Glide.
IF you have only had it a couple years I wouldn't think it would be one of the early trannys though.

[Classic Beast]

I don't think it's related to the early or late as the only thing I think was upgraded was the trap door but if you have any wear in the bearings, what I found is replacing them its back to good as new even with all the abuse I gave it as I had a lot of metal in the tranny when the snap rings broke and the counter shaft moved enough so 4th gear was rubbing you could see the wear on the end (not on the teeth though). I'm still using the red line heavy shock proof gear oil in it as I have from day one.

[mrmagloo]

Food for thought.  I had the same issue and decided it was teh clutch dragging ever so slightly.  Upon opening the clutch fluid reservoir, I found that the fluid was contaminated with what looked like water.  I sat the bike upright, and cracked op the bleeder screw and let it drain.  I made sure to keep refilling the reservoir as it drained out.  After the fluid ran clean for from the bleeder for a few seconds, I tightened it back up, topped off the reservoir and closed it up.  One pump of the clutch and it was perfect!  AND the "notchy" shifting was gone.  That was 2k miles ago and its still good.  As I said.. FFT
Glen

I gave this a whirl and it made a definite improvement.  However I bought 2 bottles of new sealed DOT 4 at the local HD and both of the fluid looked like there were separated portion in there. The second you broke the seal on the bottles, you could look down and see it? I was going to do the brakes too but I'm a bit worried about this separation? Is this normal?

[Spiderman]

I gave this a whirl and it made a definite improvement.  However I bought 2 bottles of new sealed DOT 4 at the local HD and both of the fluid looked like there were separated portion in there. The second you broke the seal on the bottles, you could look down and see it? I was going to do the brakes too but I'm a bit worried about this separation? Is this normal?

If it does,I've never heard of it. That's weird.
Having said that though, I think the answer would lie in the composition of the fluid.
If it's made up of different compounds then of course, they are going to have a different specific gravity and settle out accordingly.
When your motocycle is running though the fluid is as much as being in a blender everthing should be blended thoroughly anyway.
Interesting point though. I know that AMSOIL does not separate nor does Syn III for those that like that product (Many H-D techs do or say they do)
I would still keep an eye on the bearings checking that magnetic plug from time to time. You don't have to drain the trans to check. Buy an extra plug and quick as a Playboy Bunny giving Hef a go, switch em out and take a look. Prolly lose an ouce or two so top it off.
When you start seeing metal on that plug then you know your gears are misalligned and the only thing that should cause that is bearing play.
Time to pull it apart yourself or take it to the shop with the best reputation in your area.

B B

[adkg12]

Just FYI, I opened my clutch fluid cover and it does not indicate any separation or contaminants. And my clutch, up shifting, down shifting, and neutral grab has been perfect ever since the changing of the fluid and bleeding out.  Glad to hear that maybe yours got a little better as well.
Glen

[mrmagloo]

Just to be clear, the DOT 4 fluid is clear, but I can notice some separation. When looking down into the bottle, and in the reservoir you can see small puddles floating on top, of same colored - well colorless fluid. Almost how water and oil looks, but the fluid below is not water. It looks strange, but both bottles has this.

Wasn't quite sure what Spider was talking about with the bearings or magnet, as this is the hydraulic clutch reservoir and hose, but I'm bring the bottle up to the HD dealer tomorrow with a shot glass. I'll share what they say.

[Spiderman]

Just to be clear, the DOT 4 fluid is clear, but I can notice some separation. When looking down into the bottle, and in the reservoir you can see small puddles floating on top, of same colored - well colorless fluid. Almost how water and oil looks, but the fluid below is not water. It looks strange, but both bottles has this.

Wasn't quite sure what Spider was talking about with the bearings or magnet, as this is the hydraulic clutch reservoir and hose, but I'm bring the bottle up to the HD dealer tomorrow with a shot glass. I'll share what they say.

magloo - - if the bearings are worn or misaligned, you're going to get very fine metal shavings off your gears. The drain plug for the tranny has a little magnetic piece in it to capture these. As does your engine drain plug. Both are the same part number and they are cheap enough that everybody that works on their own bikes ought to have a couple spares in their toolbox. So if your notchy shifts are the product of a bearing alignment issue, you're gonna see some grit on the magnetic tip of the drain plug. Used to be this was fairly normal until a Harley was well worn in but with computer guided machine tooling, tolerances are so exact you don't have that break in issue anymore. Anyway, as I said, you don't need to drain our whole trans to check. Just swap out the drain plugs and refill whatever small amount of fluid is lost in the process. Examine the plug you remove. If there is no metal on the magnetic piece then your issue is not due to misalignment of your main and counter shafts due to bearing movement. If there is then bingo there's your problem. In my personal experience with Baker the only time I have had issues is when the bearings go and for whatever reason they wear even under the best of circumstances more quickly than the stock H-D trans shaft bearings do
    Just to toss this into the mix I hate hearing about problems with Baker trannies. They are the "best of the best of the best - -  sir " (salute) Will Smiith from MIB  LOL and it's a shame that anyone has to deal with stuff like this because in my perfect Harley world, everyone would have a Baker trans.

 B B

[mrmagloo]

The gear lube is fine. Always comes out crystal clear and I don't see any metal on the magnet.  After a couple of days, the fluid change did help some, but you can still feel it a bit, primarily in 2nd and 3rd, and it gets worse if you try to fast shift at high rpms.

Can this be adjusted to give a little further throw?  And, I wonder if going to a different gear lube might help. I think they originally recommended 75W250 and I went down to 75W140. Perhaps try Redline or Royal Purple?  I dunno?

[CVODON]

Maybe ask Bert Baker? 

[Spiderman]

Maybe ask Bert Baker?

Baker used to recommend Amsoil heavy weight gear lube. I couldn't tell you what they do these days as I've not seen a set of the paperwork that comes with a new Baker Trans in many moons. Still while the debate on lubricants continues to take up space on the pages of this forum, it really is about personal preference as every study I've seen pegs the top four or five so closely together it's really moot. I think if you are an extreme rider, hammering 750 miles a day in 90 degree heat or racing your CVO in som manner that one might have a bit more vicosity sustainability than another but that's really it. As such, I really am skeptical of any claim of improvement from any lubricant once you get away from OEM Syn 3 and use Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple etc etc etc.
Well I guess I've tossed in 2 bucks worth on this thread instead of 2 cents so that's it from me.

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