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[catahoula58]

As the Title states: OKAY! The New SE Compensator/GMR Compensaver/Hayden Tensioner Installed! Also installed Barnett +1 clutch package and had the clutch bleed 2 times as a precaution.  Did a 200 mile ride yesterday and when I got home the primary was rattling like all get out!  Installed and torqued everything per instructions and at first it sounded great, only noise was the chain noise on the tensioner as stated by Hayden which states suppose to allow 500 miles.  1st gear Shifting still had the initial clunk only less noise, shifting between gears had some slight clicking noise.  Going to tear it down again today and see what might be the issue.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Not sure what else to do on this installation.  Was going to do a 1 month cross country trip but not with this happening.  Don't want to get stranded somewhere and no way home.  Thanks in advance for your input and advices.

[lilcoot]

Check the springs on the Hayden tensioner.  One broke on mine and the too-loose-chain would rattle against the inside of the primary.  The Hayden has spacer plates to add if the chain is too loose;  the Hayden rep told me this could cause the spring to snap.  Make sure the compensator primary sprocket and clutch sprocket are lined up exactly. 

[lilcoot]

another pic

[Desertwndrr]

lilcoot,

That was the first version that Hayden sent out and it was only used for a short time.  They have since upgraded the springs and shoe.  I had a similar issue.  I called Hayden and they immediately sent me replacements.

[lilcoot]

You're right, Desertwndrr, they replaced my first chain pad with the new notched version, and a new spring, free of charge.  They also told me at the time that improperly installing the tensioner may cause a broken spring.  If the distance between the base of the wear pad and the shims is greater than 5/8" (the gap too wide), the spring will be more likely to break. 

That's what the Haden rep told me, for what it's worth.

[catahoula58]

Thanks for the feedback.  I opened up the primary cleaned everything up and out and found a lot of goop on the magnet.  Not a lot of shaving I am assuming it is from the tensioner foot. The Hayden had plenty of tension and I did not remove it, I checked the gap and found it at the 1/2 in from original install. I remember the first go round of the Hayden Tensioners the gap was suppose to be 3/8 then they changed it.  So that is fine.  Original fluid was 30 FL oz's of Harley Formula 1, 13 fl oz's of Castrol ATF.  Buttoned things back up again and put straight Bel Ray Primary Chain Fluid 43 oz's as required when empty.  38 fl oz's if you just drain it and do not open the primary.  The rattle is gone while idle clutch out and still have the clank when shifting into first.  I am curious why others have not had issues with the clanking after install of the SE Comp and GMR Compensavor.  Note this is my 3rd SE comp in 3 yrs.   

[grc]

The clunk going into first gear isn't caused by the compensator.  When you have the bike in neutral with the clutch engaged (lever not pulled in), the trans input shaft spins and the output shaft of course is sitting still.  When you pull the clutch lever and shift into first, the input shaft is still spinning and the clunk comes when the spinning gear and shaft is brought to a sudden stop.  If your clutch doesn't drag, you can prove it to yourself.  With the bike in neutral, pull the clutch lever and wait for five seconds before shifting into first.  If the clutch is actually releasing completely, the input shaft will slow down and stop, so when you shift there is no clunk.  If the shaft stops completely, the shift rings may not line up and you'll need to slightly slip the clutch to get first to engage.

Jerry

[adkg12]

The clunk going into first gear isn't caused by the compensator.  When you have the bike in neutral with the clutch engaged (lever not pulled in), the trans input shaft spins and the output shaft of course is sitting still.  When you pull the clutch lever and shift into first, the input shaft is still spinning and the clunk comes when the spinning gear and shaft is brought to a sudden stop.  If your clutch doesn't drag, you can prove it to yourself.  With the bike in neutral, pull the clutch lever and wait for five seconds before shifting into first.  If the clutch is actually releasing completely, the input shaft will slow down and stop, so when you shift there is no clunk.  If the shaft stops completely, the shift rings may not line up and you'll need to slightly slip the clutch to get first to engage.

Jerry

X2 

[catahoula58]

Well just got back from riding 650 miles which included a run thru the 3 Sisters 335 336 337 outside of Kerrville Texas.  The weather was 85 to 90 degrees all weekend.  As for the noise and rattling in the primary, it was not there while riding in the 3000 rpm or above range. When stopped the rattle was again rearing its ugly head.  As for the tensioner noise could not hear it over the rattle.  Again I'm going to open the primary cover and inspect it to see if there is any marks from the chain on the primary cover and inspect the tension of the Hayden. Not sure what I am going to find.  Any suggestions or input would be appreciated.  And yes the clunk is still there when shutting down the bike.  And also can hear every shift thru the gears, again is this normal as Harley would say.  maybe going to change back to Harley Tensioner.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I have to say that as long as you have a new stock auto tensioner so 2009+ they work just fine . This issue with the hayden is not uncommon.

Put the stock unit back in the bike. Then set the chain tension to 5/8 of a inch with the auto tensioner compressed. Use a screw drive to click it up in one step at a time. Follow this set up and it will be super smooth no noise.. If you have our unit , do you have the peek washer as well?? Some of the older version did not. If not please call and we will get you one.


With the spring version you use and if you had a see through primary ( like our homemade version) you would see that the shin is whipping a fair amount , more than with the stock unit. The spring does not dampen the movement as it will store the engery then release it. Where as the stock unit can not move much , you do not need to have all of that movement in my opinion. No the clunk on shut down is spring pressure on the comp. There is an update kit that HD has released for shims if your unit does not have the ring case into the ramp assy.. if the groove is on the ramp its is already built in

[fastfreddy]

i didnt have any luck with the Hayden, made a lot of noise & chain sounded it was flopping around. i put the stock unit back in, and i just dont pay attention to it any more cause its gona make some noises

[catahoula58]

Well: I took the Hayden Tensioner out and replaced it with a brand new Stock Tensioner and set as required.  The clunk on shut down is gone and the noise is all gone from what I can hear. Shifts smooth to first gear and all gears up and down.  So I rode it up to Steve at GMR and dropped it off for his 113 kit.  I can't wait to get it back and have a bike that is actually working like it is suppose to.  Thanks for all the support and feedback and keeping me from shoving this bike over the cliff!