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[Dan_Lockwood]

I talked with Progressive this morning and they will be at Black Hills HD for Sturgis and will have mono-tubes on hand for all bikes, but will not be doing any installs.

They told me an Indy just down the road has agreed to install what they sell for a fee.  I don't know what that fee is yet, but just wanted to get an idea of what charges would be for an Indy or dealer to do the work.  Minus the Progressive part that is.

Thanks in advance.

[tdkkart]

 I think most charge 4hrs, which seems about right from my experience in installing them on the older bikes.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Thanks.

If a person had a limited budget and could do either front or rear on an '09 SERG, what would be the best money spent?

I've already gotten rid of the 12" air rears and installed a like new set of Progressive 440's with h/d springs, but as most know, that's not the best setup either.

So $500 to $600 in the front or out at the back?  That's the question now...

My thoughts would be to do the rear, but that's why I asked the question.

[Supershooter]

A few years ago I had some mono tubes that needed to be replaced and they told me about the Indy at Sturgis, he was charging half a day $225-275, for my Ultra.
Supershooter

[Para Bellum]

So $500 to $600 in the front or out at the back?  That's the question now...

Since you've already done the rears...

Even if the 440s aren't the best, they're newer and (probably) better than the stock shocks, while the front is still the worn-out and crappy stock springs.  JMO

[GregKhougaz]

Thanks.
If a person had a limited budget and could do either front or rear on an '09 SERG, what would be the best money spent?
I've already gotten rid of the 12" air rears and installed a like new set of Progressive 440's with h/d springs, but as most know, that's not the best setup either.

So $500 to $600 in the front or out at the back?  That's the question now...

My thoughts would be to do the rear, but that's why I asked the question.

Dan, My opinion only but I'd do the front first!  Took me three years to get around to putting the Progressive Monotubes on the front of my SERG.  The improvement was so pronounced that I could have kicked myself for waiting.  Trying to get a set now for the RGU.   This is all the more true because you have already upgraded the rear which I'll bet feels more responsive than the front.  Not a good combo IMHO!   

[garya1]

We put Progressive 440s  and Monotube on my friends 2002 RK. He had budget issues and went the lower cost route with the Progressive stuff. Ride is more harsh than Ohlins, but it is right there, stable in the corners and stable on the straights at high speed. A huge improvement over stock. Just not "plush" riding.

Since you already have the rear 440s, do the mono tube. However, the Ohlins FKC101 can be bought for around $900, install would cost about the same as the monotubes...just sayin.......

[kojack]

I was going to state that progressive is probably not the "best",  but its a huge improvement over stock,  and night and day compared worn stock.   I am going with the monotubes up front and the 944's in the rear with the adjustable compression resivoirs.   Also,  I would add the Rear suspension Link too.   Its going to transform the way my tired bike runs.   

I think the monotubes are one of the easiest upgrades you could do to your bike to make it better.

[Twolanerider]

I was going to state that progressive is probably not the "best",  but its a huge improvement over stock,  and night and day compared worn stock.   I am going with the monotubes up front and the 944's in the rear with the adjustable compression resivoirs.   Also,  I would add the Rear suspension Link too.   Its going to transform the way my tired bike runs.   

I think the monotubes are one of the easiest upgrades you could do to your bike to make it better.

If you're thinking about improving the rear there are a couple things to at least consider along with any link or stabilizer parts.  Replace the swingarm.  There was a little flex in those swingarms.  To the point that finding bent or cracked ones wasn't uncommon. 

It's a straightforward swap to go to the newer swingarm that started in 2002.  Axle adjustment is simpler with the new swingarm too.  You'll need the 1" axle that goes with the new swingarm but you stay with the smaller diameter cross shaft in the transmission.  You can stay with this thanks to a couple of different aftermarket options that have the dual impact of doing a good job on their own and being significant improvements over the stock swingarm bushings / cleve blocks.  Only other tools you'll need will be a 1" drill bit and a brake hone.  You'll drill out the axle hole in your stock caliper and finishing honing it to about 1.002" so the new 1" axle will slide through your old brake caliper.

Easiest bushing kit to use probably the Sta-Bo III    Check it out here:  http://www.sta-bo.com/products/

Another option to accomplish the same is Drag # 1302-0257 though this one costs more.  Probably a better kit but more expensive.

Even if you don't swap to the newer swingarm there are kits out there to change away from the old cleve blocks to a spherical bearing.  If I were going to that much work I'd go ahead and use the newer swingarm too though.

[Panhead_Jimmy]

$400 from my Indy.

[kojack]

Thanks Twolane.  I will source one of those as well.  I am stripping the ol'girl down to her chasis and replaceing all bearings etc with new,  and making it all tight and new.  the swing arm is an awesome swap if it stiffens up the rear.  The progressive link acutally just bolts on in like 15 min without removal of anything but Since she's getting completely rebuilt,  Might as well do the rear swing arm swap as well!.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Twolane.  I will source one of those as well.  I am stripping the ol'girl down to her chasis and replaceing all bearings etc with new,  and making it all tight and new.  the swing arm is an awesome swap if it stiffens up the rear.  The progressive link acutally just bolts on in like 15 min without removal of anything but Since she's getting completely rebuilt,  Might as well do the rear swing arm swap as well!.

The swingarm swap really is worth doing; especially if you've got it all pulled down that far.  Choose one or the other of those bushing/bearing kits to make the swap happen and you've helped a lot to tighten up the back end.

See if you've ever noticed this on yours?  It's something I noticed on the older bikes a lot once I started looking for it.  With the original swing arm and some wear in the cleve blocs did you ever an feel when going down the road, especially on lightly grooved pavement that might pull the tires a little, that felt the bike was articulating in the middle?  Just lightly but a feeling that that the bike end wasn't quite following the front?  That's the stock swing arm on the stock mounts when they start getting a little wear.

[Dan_Lockwood]

I appreciate all the input guys.  I may have the monotubes installed while out to Sturgis this year.

Thanks again.

[FLSTFI Dave]

On my 09 I did both the progressive mono tubes up front, stock height and the progressive 944 touring rears.  While both were an improvement.  The Front was a much bigger improvement.  It was not only better ride in the front, much less brake dive, and much better handling.

[kojack]

The swingarm swap really is worth doing; especially if you've got it all pulled down that far.  Choose one or the other of those bushing/bearing kits to make the swap happen and you've helped a lot to tighten up the back end.

See if you've ever noticed this on yours?  It's something I noticed on the older bikes a lot once I started looking for it.  With the original swing arm and some wear in the cleve blocs did you ever an feel when going down the road, especially on lightly grooved pavement that might pull the tires a little, that felt the bike was articulating in the middle?  Just lightly but a feeling that that the bike end wasn't quite following the front?  That's the stock swing arm on the stock mounts when they start getting a little wear.

Yes,  I do feel that.   I also feel it on my father in law's 09 electraglide too.  I thought that is what the progressive link was supposed to fix.  I am going to dive into her after this year.  I feel something loose under the bike as well when I hit bumps.  I am not sure what that is.  I have to get under it when I get my lift operational.   feels like a little clunking.   The progressive stuff is great upgrades for not premium money.