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[adkg12]

So I finally bit the bullet and bought a real tuner for my 2007 SERK.  My running temps were just becoming too scary to risk any longer.  I went with the Power Vision, based on all of the input from you people here.  I cant believe the difference already! 
My Setup:
2007 SERK.  Stock cam, pistons and heads.  Upgraded lifters (GMR), stock pushrods (until next week).  Vance and Hines Slash Cut rounds with stock baffles, in addition to Big City Thunder QQ in-head baffles installed in the headers.  I am running the Fulsac true dual conversion as well.

After installing the tuner and marrying it to my bike, I went for a ride and began gathering data via autotune basic.  My running engine temps were hitting upwards of 320-360!  I picked a route that I run quite often.  After completing the first pass, I flashed the learned data... and did the run again.  Right away, I dropped 30 degrees.  Long and short...After a few passes and flashes.. I have dropped my temps 100 degrees!!  The bike runs smoother and the actual exhaust sounds different.  I have a few more things I need to do to it.  But over all it really is a different bike. 
Any other input would be great...Was thinking about Rush slip-ons, but maybe now I need to look at something different..
Thanks
Glen

[Sarhan]

Work on the AFR than timing

[adkg12]

Thanks!  I cant seem to find any really good forums or sites for tuning with the Power Vision...seems almost elusive.. Know any good ones?
Glen

[WTF Chuck]

You have a lot of reading to do.

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignition-tuner-ecm-fuel-injection/617661-power-vision-information-thread-sticky-approved-by-admin.html

[TNCarters]

Used to follow that thread when I had a PV.  Had no idea it had gotten up to 192 pages of posts.  PV has changed a lot since it started 4.5 years ago.  Take early posts in the thread lightly as they may not still apply.

[adkg12]

Yea .. that forum, while I am sure good intentions where meant, became HUGE and really hard to traverse and get any real information..LOL
But I am working on it.. I am chasing some spark knock on my front cylinder and cant seem to get it out.. engine temps are staying steady at 240-260.  And power is really good through the whole power band.  Engine is running very smooth, and maybe even quieter if thats possible.  But when I log my runs, I get really high number of spark knock on the front cylinder.  I cant hear the knock, and its not affecting performance, but the PV is showing it...the rear cylinder show little to none...I dropped my front exhaust to look inside, and did kinda find the gasket a tiny bit curled in to the opening, but not really much.. basically a lip...the exhaust valve was clean with just a tiny bit of whiting on it.. the stem looked good...the guide looked good at least from that side of the head LOL.  Running 93 octane...just dunno..LOL..Anyway.. sorry to ramble..
Glen

[WTF Chuck]

Have you used the logging option and then looked at the file to see where the knock events are happening. Also make sure the PV cable
is not to close to the plug wires. There were also a few reports of the front plug wire rubbing on the edge of the tank just something to check.

[adkg12]

What I am about to say, kinda defies logic..but I had been running a step cooler NGK spark plugs...and in a fit of frustration, I decided to check the plugs for ANYTHING...so I removed them.. and they looked fine..but I then decided to install the old stock plug heat range back in and give it a test.  One would think it would ping even worse.. but to my surprise.. IT DIDNT.  Throughout the whole run, I got 2 knocks on the front cylinder and 4 on the rear..!  Now, I dont know if a knock here and there is "normal" or not.  Its not the kind of knock/ping you can actually hear, just the PV displaying it on my screen.  I tried it with the o2's plugged in and without.. almost no knock.  Before this, I was using the colder range plugs and I was seeing upwards of 150-180 on the front and 4-10 on the rear.  Any idea why a colder plug would cause MORE knock.. ?  Also, Yes, I know how to grab logs and evaluate them and so on and so forth. and no matter what we did with the timing and whatnot, we could not get that knock out.. But the plugs seem to have it..
Maybe someone can explain this...
Glen

[Ridgerunr]

If your ever near Evansville, In. go see Daren at Sheffer Performance HD, ph.812-401-TUNE. He tunes with PV and does an excellent job.

[grc]

What I am about to say, kinda defies logic..but I had been running a step cooler NGK spark plugs...and in a fit of frustration, I decided to check the plugs for ANYTHING...so I removed them.. and they looked fine..but I then decided to install the old stock plug heat range back in and give it a test.  One would think it would ping even worse.. but to my surprise.. IT DIDNT.  Throughout the whole run, I got 2 knocks on the front cylinder and 4 on the rear..!  Now, I dont know if a knock here and there is "normal" or not.  Its not the kind of knock/ping you can actually hear, just the PV displaying it on my screen.  I tried it with the o2's plugged in and without.. almost no knock.  Before this, I was using the colder range plugs and I was seeing upwards of 150-180 on the front and 4-10 on the rear.  Any idea why a colder plug would cause MORE knock.. ?  Also, Yes, I know how to grab logs and evaluate them and so on and so forth. and no matter what we did with the timing and whatnot, we could not get that knock out.. But the plugs seem to have it..
Maybe someone can explain this...
Glen

Odds are it doesn't have anything to do with the colder heat range, but rather a difference in the other characteristics of the NGK versus the H-D plug.  The knock sensing relies on an indirect system, not a real knock sensor, and it's called Ion Sense if you care to look up how it works.  Basically it's a cheap and less precise method to detect detonation, and utilizes the electrical characteristics of the plug and wires to detect unusual combustion.  It is quite common for this system to be screwed up by changing either plug wires or plug brands to something that doesn't have the exact same electrical characteristics as the stock parts.

If you want to play around to see if it's the difference in the brand or maybe the colder heat range, just buy a set of H-D plugs for a V-Rod and see what results you get with those.  They are either one or two steps colder than the plugs in a Twin Cam, I forget which.

The only way I can imagine the colder heat range causing the issue would be if it was allowing deposits to build up on the electrodes and thus altering the electrical characteristics that in turn affect the ion sense system.  Not a proven theory btw, just a thought off the top of my feeble mind.

Jerry

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

The system does not know what a knock or ping is.. What is does know is that a change in the voltage..   Aftermarket plug wires, wrong gap, loose top insert on plug,   or maybe you just need to pull a few degrees of timing in that area.. That is providing that the AFR is correct in that area.

Send me the map and log and I will look it over.

[adkg12]

Since I went back to the original stock plug brand and model, I am not hearing .. or seeing ANY knock with my current tune..and the bike is running better than it has ever ran...Strong in about 80% of the power range (still tuning..) and in the cruising range, I am seeing 45-48MPG and engine temps averaging 240-260 tops.  Stuck in traffic the other day in 80 degree weather, idling...never got about 290-300 and I no longer hear valve spiking like I used to to indicate over heat.  I can still send you my map, as I am always open to ideas.  I will be removing the Big city thunder baffles tonight and using just the stock baffles in the V&H pipes just to see what it does, and to adjust the sound a bit more.. So I think the electrical characteristics of the other plug might have been causing some false positives...just brainstorming here...
Thanks
Glen