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[LITTERBOX]

Put my 13 CVO King bike in the shop for a few upgrades. Installed vance and hines power dual head pipe, 4'' rinehart mufflers, SE Agitator air cleaner, SE Tuner and a cam from a local builder. Bike dyno'd by local dealer and did some research on the guy dynoing and is said to be very good for this area. Bike dynoed at 118lbs torque and 102 HP. Max TQ was at 3750 with a nice curve and slowly tapers to 85lbs at 6k rpm. Max HP at 5500 rpm. My questions are many as this isn't very impressive numbers to me for current setup.(Was hoping for more}

1. I have looked at the cyclerama cam 575 and seems to be good but torque seems to drop early. Any other cam suggestions? Or should I try the 575?

2. Talked to builder about decking the heads to raise compression,clean up ports on heads,and change springs? Is this a good solution on a shoe string budget instead of changing pistons and such? Will the gains be worth the added cost? with the heads he suggested if we go this route to change the cam to a T-man 66? adding a 58mm throttle body and bigger injectors?

At this point I am looking for either better cam choices that are proven in a 110"" or your thoughts on clipping the heads and other mods I talked about...

[North Star]

I'm sure you've heard it before, but don't get caught up in numbers. Every dyno is different, some drastically so.

More important, do you like the feel of the engine? Does it have a nice torque curve on the dyno chart with no dips? Does it wind up nice with no throttle lag?

What if you now went to another shop with an optimistic dyno that read much higher numbers. Would you happy then? It's the same bike you rode from shop #1 to shop #2.

More about your actual question, I wouldn't pull the heads unless you planned on doing the cylinders too, as you would be repeating labour costs if you did the heads now and pistons later. Cam choice depends on your riding style, but before you switch cams, make sure your tune is bang on, so that you know nothing is left on the table from the tune.

[LITTERBOX]

With current weather and road conditions I can't ride the bike for now. I'm am curious to what other guys have used as a bolt in cam with no head work and the results?

I have the dyno sheet in an email but don't know how to post it to here?

[fkjunkin]

The best advice I can give you is this.

You are pretty close to where you should expect to be in reality and likely are dealing with an honest man.

Ignore at least 95% of what you read on the internet and hear about HP&TQ gains, they are  either lying through their teeth or victims of selectively "happy" dynos.

This goes double for any manufacturers claims about increases.

[DesertHOG]

Chasing numbers is either a rich man's game or a fool's errand. If you really want numbers, put a blower on it and be done with it. But then again is you plan on always whomping it, you better consider a tranny job too. Best of luck. After throwing away $5k on engine work on my 2011 I swore I would never do it again. I just hand them dyno the factory setup with some fullsac baffles. If it gets hot this summer, I might go with a gutted cross-over and a dyno update.

DH

[TorqueInc]

Post a sheet 

Numbers alone it sounds OK but  if you aren't happy..... Then winter is the time to handle it

[Para Bellum]

I have the dyno sheet in an email but don't know how to post it to here?

Numbers alone don't tell the whole story; we need to see the sheet.  That said, your numbers aren't that bad for the work you've done.

A general guide to attaching files:
1.  From the email, save the dyno sheet to your computer--like to Desktop.
2.  Post a reply to this topic; when you are in the "Post a reply" page, look down a little below the white box to where it says "Attach."  Click on the "Choose file" button and your computer will bring up a list of files on your computer.  Go to where you saved it--like Desktop--and click on the dyno sheet.
3.  Click "Post."

For more info, see the Help section on the forum.

[Ridgerunr]

"I'm am curious to what other guys have used as a bolt in cam with no head work and the results?"

Kury 24D cams V&H PD head pipe, Kury crusher mellows, tuned with SESPT. 100hp/113tq.
The cams you have may respond to increased compression, your builder should know. changing valve springs and lifters a good move IME.

[LITTERBOX]

Dyno sheet is attached if you open file.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Our 577 bolt in two systems two dynos. I can post up many more but you get the point.. Gives you an idea curve wise.  The mufflers are not helping you at all..

[FlaHeatWave]

Put my 13 CVO King bike in the shop for a few upgrades. Installed vance and hines power dual head pipe, 4'' rinehart mufflers, SE Agitator air cleaner, SE Tuner and a new proto-type cam from a local builder. Bike dyno'd by local dealer and did some research on the guy dynoing and is said to be very good for this area. Bike dynoed at 118lbs torque and 102 HP. Max TQ was at 3750 with a nice curve and slowly tapers to 85lbs at 6k rpm. Max HP at 5500 rpm. My questions are many as this isn't very impressive numbers to me for current setup.

1. I have looked at the cyclerama cam 575 and seems to be good but torque seems to drop early. Any other cam suggestions? Or should I try the 575?

2. Talked to builder about decking the heads to raise compression,clean up ports on heads,and change springs? Is this a good solution on a shoe string budget instead of changing pistons and such? Will the gains be worth the added cost? with the heads he suggested if we go this route to change the cam to a T-man 66? adding a 58mm throttle body and bigger injectors?

At this point I am looking for either better cam choices that are proven in a 110"" or your thoughts on clipping the heads and other mods I talked about...

There is no such thing as chasing #s on a shoe string budget on a CVO

Those #s are good for a cam, pipe, a/c & tune on a 110. just 5hp and 1 ft/lb behind the SE Stage III Kit... What do you think the #s should be??

Before you end up spending a ton of $ trying this and that and doing things one at a time (and usually ending up dissatisfied) set some clear objectives, (browse through the Threads in the Twin Cam section), speak with some of the reputable Builders here, come up with a plan and do it all at one time...

I'm with GMR on those mufflers...

  

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

The best bang for the buck I feel on a CVO is to go 113 add a mild cam leave the rest alone.. ( yes the heads can be an issue and that is what it is.. you stated budget) A 113 kit with stock heads stock t/b will make some great tq that is usable , and something that hits hard and the bike will accelerate very rapidly .   


here are a few to look at the curve ex system is a crucial item and mufflers will play a huge roll in power . But with a 113 kit I would leave the cam alone leave you mufflers as is and the result would not be optimized however the end result still would be very good.

[LITTERBOX]

Thanks guys for the input.

[LITTERBOX]

Going to have the bike put on the Dyno again this week with difference being, replacing Rinehart 4'' mufflers with 2.25 Fullsach baffles installed in stock mufflers. I have these collecting dust. Will post results afterwards!!

[North Star]

Going to have the bike put on the Dyno again this week with difference being, replacing Rinehart 4'' mufflers with 2.25 Fullsach baffles installed in stock mufflers. I have these collecting dust. Will post results afterwards!!

Can't see any difference between those....both are spiral louvered 2.25" baffles. The cores look identical, and are the same size.