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[Pan1]

My trans was shifting from neutral into first smooth as silk. After the 1k service it now has the familure "cluck". Is there a manual adj for the primary chain or a self tensioner on 2015 CVO 's?
Does too tight if a chain cause this? Could the trans fluid effect it. The clunk was non existent before and now it's very pronounced
Always something

[Rooster]

Your bike has an automatic tensioner. Some think keeps the chain to tight. There are options including changing back to the manual one. The bad news is the Moco took away the inspection/adjustment door so you have to take off the outer primary to adjust it which requires the purchase of the $35 outer primary gasket unless you carefully replace the old one. I'm sure someone else will help answer the other questions. Hope you get things resolved soon.

[grc]

The clunk is more likely due to clutch drag.  Make sure the aces at the dealership didn't overfill the primary; the fluid should just barely touch the bottom edge of the clutch spring with the bike sitting level.  Excess fluid will cause the clutch to drag which will in turn cause a clunk when shifting from neutral to first.

Jerry

[Rooster]

I have friends with Indians and Victorys and they both clunk when shifting into 1st before taking off I heard it so we aren't alone with our Hd Clunk

[grc]

I have friends with Indians and Victorys and they both clunk when shifting into 1st before taking off I heard it so we aren't alone with our Hd Clunk

It will be common on any transmission with the same basic design.  It can be lessened or even eliminated if the clutch is designed to release completely so the input shaft isn't spinning when first gear is engaged.  Note that a full synchromesh manual transmission in a car or truck doesn't clunk when you engage first gear.  Different design plus a clutch that actually releases completely.

Jerry

[Phantom309]

X2 on checking the primary oil level, factory over-filled mine. Another way to ease or stop that clunk is to stop going directly from neutral right into 1st. Instead, hold your clutch against the grip for 5-10 seconds before you drop in in 1st ... gives the gears time to slow down and will go in like butter without the clunk. Sometimes if held in long enough the gears will come to a stop and when you go for 1st it may not feel like it wants to go in, don't force it .... just ease the clutch back out a hair to give the gears a little spin, then pull it back in and try again ... or keep the lever in and drift the bike back or forward while trying for 1st at the same time.

 Basically the same principle as trying to put a big truck into gear from neutral except everything obviously is much bigger/heavier than your bike is. Plus big trucks also have a clutch brake that stops the input shaft from turning which is activated by pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor ... bikes don't have a clutch brake, but given enough time the gears will slow or stop provided your clutch isn't dragging from too much oil and if you hold the lever in long enough. Only problem is it's a gamble when/where the gears will stop ... sometimes they will mesh, sometimes they don't ... just be patient and don't force it. Did you ever watch/hear a driver drop a big truck into gear with that awful grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrind or clunk while the whole truck shakes/jerks around from it being rammed into gear? Well ... driver is either impatient, too lazy to push the clutch pedal to the floor, clutch brake out of adjustment or past it's life, pissed off or just plain doesn't care because it isn't "their" truck ... that's the kind of driver you wouldn't want riding your bike. When a good driver drops it into gear, you would never know/hear it other than physically seeing them do it. Try what I said and once you get a feel for it you'll be treated with barely a "click" instead of the dreaded "CLUNK".             

[dano]

Your right.  I always wait a few seconds after pulling in the clutch and first gear slips right in place with no noise at all

[Cvostu]

I had the Haydem M6 in there for about a year,,   I noticed I was having noises coming from the primary side.   I am pretty sure it ruined the compensator and was told the chain was stretched and needed replacing.   I was lucky to have it all covered under the extended service plan,,,   I'm back with the stock tentioner with all new parts.    When we called Hayden,,,,  we never got a call back.    I wouldn't use their products again,,,,  no return callls sends me looking for another way      Stuart

[Pan1]

Thank you, I drained about two ounces and it seemed to help a little. But holding in the clutch levee for about 15 seconds before shifting into first makes all thediff in the world. Smooth as butter. I wonder why the dealership doesn't teach this  👀
Thanks again for the response

[Phantom309]

Thank you, I drained about two ounces and it seemed to help a little. But holding in the clutch levee for about 15 seconds before shifting into first makes all thediff in the world. Smooth as butter. I wonder why the dealership doesn't teach this  👀
Thanks again for the response

Good deal! The dealer wants you to keep clunking it in gear so they can sell you parts and labor down the road ... most likely after your warranty expires too. You'd be surprised how many people don't know that trick and just yank the clutch and stomp it in gear without waiting ... makes me cringe.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

We "set" the chain tension when we install them. SO I look for 5/8-3/4 play. Easy to pull on the chain hard enough to compression the spring in the stock unit. If its not to where I like the tension, use a screw driver and click it up one notch. This may or may not help but making sure everything is correct goes a long way.