Curious about what others think about pushrod run-out. I have removed a set of SE Tapered Pushrods from my 110 to do my regular 10,000 mile lifter replacement therapy. I noticed when I first installed these pushrods last year I did not like the run-out I visibly saw when rotating them between my fingers after lifter bleed down during initial preload adjustment. This time I decided to chuck them up on my lathe between two opposing lifters and check the run-out with my dial indicator to get some real numbers. After bench adjusting them to their approximate installed length and locking them down with the jam nut I was surprised to get the following readings: .0005

, .013, .017 and .031. I took the pushrods apart and checked the tapered tubes and they were perfectly straight. I checked the short threaded adjusters and they were straight as well. It only leaves the source of the problem to be that the tapered rods and not drilled and tapped straight.
OK, so now I ordered a new set of the S&S Quickee Pushrods. I checked them and got the following results: .007, .0125, .0175 and .021.
SO now what. I know straight is important but it looks like there must be a go no go tolerance that the manufactures use as being acceptable? Anyone else have this problem and how did you finally get a set of acceptable pushrods?
Mine were not rubbing, at least there were no signs of it, but I had a very noisy front intake lifter noise and it was the one with the .031 run-out SE Tapered Pushrod. Maybe this was the cause?
I don't want to yank the top apart to drop in standard adjustables which I have on the shelf. I'm getting semi lazy in my old age.
